HV's 82 D24 turbo build

[hvguy]

Originally Posted by casioqv

I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.

If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, along with the tropical clutch. With the tropical clutch, you'll get better cooling than even an electric fan conversion.

Also, no radiator can keep the motor cool if you have a blown head gasket...

lol, yeah, the HG is in the process of being replaced, im wondering if id be able to re-arrange the water flow in the cores... and I could always run the pumps in parallel for double flow...

you say 10gpm? i say it barely filled a coffee cup full in 30 seconds at idle =(

[hvguy]

ok... so I finally got around to finishing this thing. I built my own cam holder... aligned the crank to TDC, bolted the head on at 80ftlbs per bolt, set the injector pump where I thought it should be... and nothing worked...

good thing is I didnt smash the valves "woot" I tried mercilessly for the next 4 hours; setting the timing advanced, retarted, and so on... till I finally got it to sputter to life... but thats about all it did, smoke a little run really rough and thats all...

next day "sunday" I woke up with a genius idea of using a pair of calipers poked into the hole in the center of the injector pump to make for sure its on time... this worked! I had to hold them REALLY still and got it set to .039 with the advance cable slack.

even with the timing set it runs kinda rough at idle... im thinking its still off =(

also, something I noticed: before I took the front cam gear off originally, I sharpened a punch to a point and put a dent between the cam and pulley for alignment reasons..... however when I have the cam locked with the plate, and the crank at tdc... the notches dont line up... but only by like .075... im thinking the factory did this?

long story short, it works, but it needs a gasket between the turbo and the flange... its leaks pretty bad under load lol.

[VolvoBro]

What year were those gauges made? lol.

[hvguy]

Originally Posted by VolvoBro

What year were those gauges made? lol.

what gauges.... the airplane ones I wanted to use? pssh... ww2 era?

[hvguy]

it seems no matter what I do... I cant keep oil from pouring from my valve cover =(

so.. I got a long 10mm bolt in an effort to really clamp down on the rear passenger side part of the cover and managed to break it off in the head.... dear god.. why me?

so I got the genius idea to drill out the 10mm way too small holes and tap them for something bigger.... like 5/16!

all went well, I only did 3 on the driver side since it never really leaks, and I did all of the ones on the pass. side. In placement of a typical bolt, I went to fastenal and bought 15pcs of 5/16"-18 X 3/4" 18-8 stainless cap screws; along with 15 stainless washers with rubber molded to the bottom.
here is the hardware links:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...1173494&ucst=t
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...1133166&ucst=t

Its SEALED! i swear, when I took it on that first test drive, got home and popped the hood... I could hear angels singing 'aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh' no oil.

however now my fill cap is leaking O_o... it has the rubber washer still in place, however the actual plastic piece is cracked.


on another note: I installed a new 'industrial' boost gauge to really see what its pushing.. and it maxed out at 30psi i was hoping for 40, but w/e beggers cant be choosers...
has anyone ever blown the rear rubber plug on the manifold off? lol, i did, and nearly soiled myself thinking something serious happened.

are these cracks normal in this engine? all but 1 cylinder has it...

[anders]

The 4 D24/D24T heads I have seen have cracks between valves, The engine that blew up on me in the kibbles and bits thread had very large cracks between the valves. I think someone here said if they are less then 1/8" deep there ok?

[hvguy]

so I'm pulling the engine from the wagon and transplanting it into my 81 Toyota starlet hatchback. my only problem now is after I do a hard run... it starts smoking white... possibly the injectors? any ideas? it has some blow by however its not exactly "too much" so I have ruled out the rings being toast... I think.

all help is greatly appreciated.

ill post vids in the next few days.

[hvguy]

so... got a small vid of the boost gauge however this was taken before I sealed a hole that was about 1/8 in diameter, and I insta-gasketed the turbo to the home-made flange I built since it was BARELY leaking around the top... so im sure its well up in the 30's now, however not the 40psi I was hoping for...

http://www.youtube.com/embed/r1RCr_R95c8

Im planning on ditching the wagon frame since it weighs in just under 20,000 tons lol, and im swapping it into my 81 starlet hatchback

"not my car, but same chassis, different wheels and color..."


and yes, it makes quite a bit of fire from the stack lol

[hvguy]

WOW, 2011? that was a long time ago. LOTS has happened,

my only problem is that when im on the highway (in 100 degree heat) it runs hot, id say the needle sits at about 65-70% on the gauge and it wont come down until I slow down from 65 to about 45-50... I originally pulled the thermostat back in the day so the cooling system is running WIDE OPEN, I blocked off the cold start advance hoping it was recirculating water, and I hooked up a hose to bypass the heater core. I shot the hoses with a FLIR camera and when sitting still after a hard run down the road and back with the fan on sitting still idling there is only a 5 degree temp drop across each tank on either side of the radiator. On one side its 170, the other its 165 =( maybe my radiator is garbage... it sat with pure water in it for about 3 years until recently I flushed it with clean water and replaced with actual 50/50 antifreeze.

any ideas?

rebuilt the turbo, installed an intercooler, welded up a stainless riser to aid oil draining from the turbo, hooked the electric fan back up, fixed rotted wiring, put a toggle switch on blinkers and high beam (i broke the turn signal flipper thingy) replaced nearly all of the bulbs, bought a larger more accurate pressure gauge to read boost.... tightened alternator belt? cleaned it and threw together an emergency fix anything crate and strapped it in the back (water, oil, zippies, tape, pipe clamps, bailing wire, gloves, rags, wd40, brake cleaner, starting fluid, bulbs, fuses etc)

ive got some MB weapons i want to mount but i need spacers... 5x108 to 5x114.3

Originally Posted by casioqv

I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.

If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, .

im going to try this

[RedArrow]

That`s a unique brick`s life.

I liked the yt video too
I`m curious, did motor ever end up in Starlet? Any videos?