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Old 11-16-2015, 11:33 AM
Texidor1 Texidor1 is offline
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Vehicle: 1985 740 GLE td
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Default Car does not want to start :(

Got everything installed.
IP timing set to .85
New glow plugs.
Cranks OK.
Dash indicators OK with glow plugs.
I believe the problem is electrical.
There are 2 blue wires coming out of the wiring harness that I got no place to plug them in.
Looks like they plug somewhere close to the IP.
I got a blue and a yellow wires plugged to the IP.
Help me with this wiring issue.
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1985 Volvo 740 GLE
D24t engine
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:44 AM
anders anders is offline
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Is it possible you got your timing 180 off? It's very easy to do.
Are you getting 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid?
All the air is bled out of the fuel system?
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:48 AM
Texidor1 Texidor1 is offline
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Which one is the solenoid?
The top or bottom plug in the IP?
And how do I ck the 180 off timing?
Thanks. I am learning this bad boy d24t.
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Old 11-16-2015, 12:21 PM
Texidor1 Texidor1 is offline
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I got 12v going to the blue wire. This wire is plugged to the lower plug in the IP. The yellow wire is plugged top.
The 2 blue wires missing to plug send 12v. I do not have a place to plug them.
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D24t engine
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2015, 01:02 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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The blue wire that has +12VDC when the ignition switch is ON should be connected to the IP fuel shutoff solenoid, see here for visuals. If that solenoid is not receiving +12VDC, it is not allowing fuel to the injectors.
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Old 11-16-2015, 01:32 PM
Texidor1 Texidor1 is offline
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Thanks Ngoma.
I had the wires plugged backwards.
Will try.
Any info on the two missing blue wires?
They are sending 12v with the switch on.
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2015, 01:08 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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How many light blue wires have you got terminating in that area? Should be two, one for the fuel shutoff solenoid, and the other for the altitude compensator on the IP.

Both should have +12VDC with ignition on, but the one for the altitude compensator should turn off at around 4000 ft. altitude (IIRC?). Easy way to test for that one is to temporarily disconnect the other end from the tuna can on the driver side shock tower. Other end (that plugs into the altitude compensator) should lose its +12VDC.
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Old 11-17-2015, 02:41 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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You might also have a couple of wires for the EGR throttle switch if your car has EGR. Seem to recall those being black but they also might be blue.

All that matters for it to start, though, is that there should be +12V at the two solenoids on the pump, functional glow plugs and circuit, and correct timing. I wouldn't worry about the extra wires for now as long as the ones that are plugged in are doing what they should.

What is telling you that the problem is electrical? Sounds like it might be, but might also be mechanical or fuel-prime related. Were you able to get the fuel lines all bled and primed all the way to the injectors? If not, that's the starting point.

You can accidentally set timing 180* out by timing only to the crank without checking the cam. Ways of verifying this are either taking the valve cover off, or taking the vacuum pump off (easier but you need to use a little more caution), to check what the cam position is when the crank is at the #1 TDC you've been using.

Does it smoke or cough when trying to start, or is there nothing at all?
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2015, 09:58 AM
Texidor1 Texidor1 is offline
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Thank you Guys for the feedback. You are the experts.

Remember that I bought this car with missing parts. :[

1. Car is not coughing or sending smoke out of the exhaust.

2. There are two blue wires left. Possibly for the egr that its not present.

3. I just bled the whole system; still no start.

4. The two wires to the IP:
One is yellow and the other blue.
The way they are setup (yellow) is not giving 12v to the upper plug (fuel solenoid); but is giving (blue) 12v to the bottom plug (altitude).
If I switch them (yellow and blue), the car does not crank at all. :[
If I set a 12v jumper to the fuel solenoid, the car will not start. :{

5. Car was timed properly. Removed the valve cover to set cam lobes in piston one to horizontal, and the little 0 set on the flywheel.

6. Pump was set to .085 degrees.
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D24t engine
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2015, 12:08 PM
ngoma ngoma is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texidor1 View Post
3. I just bled the whole system; still no start.
What do you mean by "bled the whole system." Did it include bleeding the injector hard lines?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texidor1 View Post
4. The two wires to the IP:
One is yellow and the other blue.
The way they are setup (yellow) is not giving 12v to the upper plug (fuel solenoid); but is giving (blue) 12v to the bottom plug (altitude).
If I switch them (yellow and blue), the car does not crank at all. :[
So those wires are probably not the correct ones. Find the ones that behave as explained in post #7 above.

You stated new GPs but are they all getting +12VDC during the glow period?

Have you studied the Hard Starting sticky?
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