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  #11  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:30 AM
raw raw is offline
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right, seems i've been VERY lazy about updating this despite poking my head in to keep up with what's going on on here now and then :|

m-reg, nope, this car came from norfolk, but it was indeed a 940L, L presumable meaning Literally nothing?

so, what's happened since my last update, going to shamelessly copy the posts from my thread on volvoforums as there are too many!

may 24th

Quote:
well for starters, sorry, i've been crap at photographing today.

this morning i remembered to take my soldering iron with me got the soldering done, now have boost warning (currently choke until i get diesel clocks), glow plug warning (tracs until i get diesel clocks), working glow plugs, all functioning wiring in the engine bay in fact except no start signal to the starter for some reason, i'll work it out tomorrow!

currently the back end is in the air, axel is out, fuel tank is drained and ready to be dropped and exhaust is off, just waiting for the same bits to come off the 940 to go onto it tomorrow morning. once that's done i just need to fix that starter signal (suspect probably either my ignition switch, which has been iffy for a while, or my immobiliser maybe), bleed the injection system and the rack, fill the coolant up and get it out of the yard. i have until the end of sunday to get it moved as the farmer needs to get grain out and dried on monday. got a list of parts to nick off the 940 before it goes to scrap and a few plans for some of them aswell

all going well, so pleased with the wiring just need to wrap it all up so it looks neat. pleased with todays progress although if i had got on better this morning then i'd probably have it on the floor by now :|
May 25th (moms birthday, don't think i paid much attention to that fact though!)

Quote:
more progress today, even worse on the photos though :| there are a few from this morning which i'll add sometime.

today was a really slow day, started by rebuilding my spare set of instruments with the speedo from the old set, this solved my warning lights issue and left me with the working speedo, so the dash was then resassembled. the wiring loom was wrapped (until i ran out of tape, still have probably two rolls worth to do but some is now done!). problem with starting was not fixed but i know roughly where it is now. when the earth for the glow plug relay is connected then the starter wont run, any time that earth is disconnected it turns over fine. annoying but i'm sure i'll find it so it's not a priority now.

fuel tank then came out, along with sender etc, and also the filler neck, which was a right royal PITA to get out. this was made more annoying by finding that the filer neck form my 940 is in fact identical in every way :| anyway, new filler neck fitted, then tank and fuel lines (more slow progress here, and the tanks not in right but it's in :| will fix these issues soon.

then last thing i tried this evening, about 4 oclock i started this, which was to fit the new diff, and at quarter past 8 i gave up having trying to get the prop shaft to connect. i'll go back to it tomorrow! i cant find a master spline on the prop shaft, and it's gone in far enough to turn together with the front half, but i cant get it to go in further (enough to get the diff back in). thinking about it i should probably have put the differential in first and then put the front half on after where i could use a persuasion tool if necessary, and connect it to the gearbox afterwards :| i'll try that tomorrow unless anyone has any other ideas?

the important thing is that it starts and runs under it's own power. need a set of exhaust clamps though as theres no way that the ones on there are coming off without breaking and it needs to be adjusted. i assume that the mounts are different on a 940 somehow as it's against the rear subframe on mine with the hangers 'adjusted'.

oh well. it's getting there
after spending may 26th fiddling with the prop shaft (something that came up again and again for a while) and trying to find where my volts were going in the glow plug relay

may 27th

Quote:
well, it works

still some little niggles to fix:

glow plug relay problem
gearbox mount
tracking/adjust steering wheel
adjust exhaust
fix oil cooler mountings
wire washer pumps
shorten fuel tank straps
full service inc cam belt and water pump

however, on the good side, i've done 200 miles, and (depending how accurate this fuel gauge might be) i think i still have about 3/5ths of a tank left, it pulls well, (as everyone who' been in it has commented), and there've only been a few small worries :P

after fixing everything yesterday evening, i decided i'd go and fill up with diesel as the fuel gauge seemed to be playing silly buggers and i didn't want to risk it. while in town i texted a mate to tell him i'd got it working. long and the short i ended up in peterborough and didn't get home till half 4 this morning! still, was good fun and a good test run. did have a few little moments, had to bump start it and had very dim lights, along with some other odd electrical behaviour. assumed this was that the alternator was weak or something was discharging the battery while it was switched off. traced the problem this morning however, i cleaned the earth to the body! now everything works fine, apart from still having this intermittent issue with no start if the glow plugs are plugged in.

i'll trace it all down and get it fixed, just loving having a working car that's better than ever!
may 28th

Quote:
ok, i checked the wiring on the glow plug relay, couldn't have connected it backwards as the wire that goes to the glow plugs doesn't reach to the other side of the relay. did however give the chassis earth a good clean with some wet and dry and suddenly the glow plugs work properly, cold start is much improved and i don't have to unplug them

this morning took the 940 and all the other bits whites so it's now gone to a better place to rust in peace, got £160 which i split with the farmer so i now have £70 towards my big servicing job that i'll be doing soon and a new thermostat that i fitted this afternoon. car now gets warm and stays there even if you're not thrashing it happy days. thermostat was a VW one marked '94 so i presume it was original, perhaps explains being a little past it, although testing it in boiling water it seemed to be ok.

before doing this i did some work on the gauges. bodged the 940 rev counter into the 740 dashboard with a few bits of wire with ring connectors on the ends of them, which i soldered to the old connections on the 740 cluster and then screwed into the 940 gauge mounts. hey presto, a functioning rev counter that proves it idles at 800RPM, not 6000 :P all ready to take me to uni tomorrow for my exams :| also swapped in the fuel and temp gauges (both known to be good) from the original gauges from my car. fuel gauge now steadily reads about a third, which is what the 940 one used to do i think, either i've used a lot of fuel to be down to that much, or something's wrong. should i remove the jumper on the back?

only issues that remain are:

knocking exhaust
gearbox mount
oil cooler mounts
shorten fuel tank straps
tracking
wayward petrol gauge/i've used a heck of a lot of diesel!
washer fluid warning lamp (i now have a sensor for it) always on
full service inc cam belt and water pump,

think i'll do the pump timing at the same time as the service, and maybe get the injectors pop tested as theres a little too much grey smoke for my liking. cleans up to nice black stuff when it's hot but more grey than i'd like when cold.
and that takes us to the end of the swap, but with issues still ongoing clearly!

Richard
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  #12  
Old 10-27-2013, 04:07 AM
raw raw is offline
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since then, more has happened:

fitted these

Quote:


recycling seemed sensible, especially as i had neither longer bolts nor big washers that i could find, to use his method (did have some fuel pipe though) one day i'll redo them properly:



can anyone guess what i made the brackets from?



got them wired in so they can only be on with the main beams, but you can still have main beams without if you want, they even work!

this happened in june:

Quote:
today was the highlight of it, after having got up at 0400 to go to Abbey Wood for an induction day. noticed on the way there that there seemed to be a lot of greasy spray getting on the back window meaning i had to have the rear wiper on intermittent from part way down the M5 all the way to bristol, and then noticed that something smelled a bit odd when i parked up. all a bit odd!

on the way back, got on the M5 north about 1715 with 1h40 to make it to rugby in order for my friend i was giving a lift to to catch his train to get back to cottesmore, so cutting it fine without even considering the fact i was taking it steady to reduce wear on my wheel bearing, which is on it's last legs btw. as i was going along the motorway, thought two things, one this car doesnt feel right, front end is all over the place, and two the rear window still seemed to be getting that odd yellow/brown greasy spray on the back window, which didnt look like normal road grime! pulled off at the first junction worrying that the wheel bearing might have got worse somehow during the day hence the vague front end, and after checking all the tyres looked ok with air in them, and then shaking the front wheel to feel for play in the bearing, i noticed that the wheel was covered in fluid, which was also dripping off the wheel arch!

opened to bonnet to see if i could work out what the fluid was maybe, to find that the entire n/s of the engine bay was also covered. was at this point that tom and i finally worked out what the smell was, diesel! started the engine back up to find diesel spraying out at an angle from the no1 injector! traced it to the rubber cap on the return line which had perished and split.

gets better, breakdown cover was cancelled with my old insurance policy, new insurance company are closed so cant find if i have breakdown from them, and neither greenflag nor the AA think i'm covered with them, so i had to join the AA, at a cost of £160, in order to have a van come out and fit a 10p rubber cap! better be a good part at that price!

oh well, that's todays woes, on with life eh!
changed my front wheel bearing to fix a rumble when turning right. it didn't fix it.

disabled my immobiliser in order to fix the starting issue. seems like the alarm i have couldn't source enough current to trigger the GRP crank signal and the starter solenoid.

realised that the noise i thought was the wheel bearing was a totally FUBARed gearbox mount.

crossmember wasn't much better :

Quote:






not great :| mount was absolutely fubared, and the cross member is actually surprisingly rigid, straightened where i bent it with a jack while doing the engine swap, and removed all the loose rust, and it's solid, if not acceptable.

gearbox mount itself however was a different matter, no wonder the gearbox was all over the place!



and the other part (this rubber section is actually moulded around a piece of rectangular tube that's welded to the last piece, but no longer exists!)

fixed the bodge properly and looked at how to fit a V70 electrical fan:

Richard
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  #13  
Old 10-27-2013, 04:08 AM
raw raw is offline
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[QUOTE]ok, well i removed the bodge
oks fine from here!

looks fine from here!



maybe not so :P



old and new



also patched the worst bits of the crossmember for now, and fitted the new mount, this is what went back in. me attempts at welding the crossmember up are not good, but the metal is very thin and rusty, so i'm not really surprised. it's a lot stronger than it was, and it wasnt showing any signs of this weakness causing problems, so i'm happy, but a new crossmember is still something i'm looking for sooner rather than later.



ready to go back in



today something else happened.

liberated the parts V70 of this... (that's the 940 one above and the one i planned to fit below)



it didnt fit though, not really surprising considering it's from a transverse FWD and i'm trying to fit it to a longitudinal RWD. the rads are exactly the same size, but the bottom hose on the 940 rad fouls the cowl on the V70 fan unit. no problem





it fits, sort of!



not enough space for a fan though :|



then i had a brain wave que more hacking





this then goes in here to become this
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  #14  
Old 10-27-2013, 04:10 AM
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Quote:




after some more trimming and fettling, this happened!



proof the fan fits



methinks the pulley might need rethinking though!

i'm wondering if i could go without the fan pulley and find a shorter alternator belt maybe, or alternatively it's going to have to be machine back the centre bit of the pulley and use shorter studs, but it will still be close. plenty of clearance to the crank pulley and everything else though (the crank pulley is below the centre bit of the fan and has about 20mm clearance)



other thing i need to work out is how i'm going to get the airflow inside the cowl to work properly again, as the piece of the 940 cowl sits a bit further into it than would be ideal to maximise the flow, but that's to work out once i've worked out the clearance issues and worked out something to give the signals for the two speed fan on an engine with next to no electrics!
replaced both rear wheel bearings and the prop centre bearing, engine serviced as well but didn't do the cam belt or water pump yet. changing the prop bearing highlighted my prop being out of balance, spent a whole day fiddling with it and talking to the engineering shop who put the new bearing on, eventually realised theres a really obvious alignment mark and it just slides together if you use that :P

pic i quite like



did some more painting, flatting and polishing on my roof where i had removed the roof rack (rusty holes). got it looking slightly more monotone and shiny although still not perfect.





Quote:
picked up a puncture from somewhere on the N/S/F tyre, and the spare was U/S as it had a cut in it, so got me a couple of near new part worns fitted for £36 by our local friendly scrappy. one is a nice barely used Avon TS2 and the other god only knows what but with similar tread :P they'll do for a bit and with the wheel that was on front right that had over 100g of balance weights to try and balance a dent in it back in the boot, suddenly my car is stable at speeds without wobbles again

then today this arrived as i was having my morning coffee. car's all loaded ready to go back to uni, but i need to unload it and go get a bike rack from storage. thinking if i'm going to be here half the day i may as well get these fitted too.







they are a bit yellow! if it doesnt go low enough to hide them then i might have to paint them black but for now they can go on
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:13 AM
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got them fitted:

Quote:
so, started with moving the car off the nice off street drive onto the road, as apparently i mess the gravel up when working on the car :S anyways, front end up,



O/S Strut out, compress spring, spring off, side by side with the new one



and reassebled:



very comfortable ball joint needed changing before the strut could go back in. normally a sharp tap to the bottom frees these (i've changed them a few times) but didnt work with these. tried ball joint chisel thing, ended up using lots of fire, several hammers and in the end a sledgehammer! on closer inspection these (these are the ones off the 940 so not ones i've changed before) were the original volvo marked ones i think! no wonder they didnt want to come free.







inadvertantly dropped chisel on lighter, which promptly exploded!



bigger hammer was needed



front back together and back on the group strangely it doesnt look that low in this photo, but there was actually quite a pronounced rake going on!



rear up in the air, lots of extensions needed for this bit!



these are the bolts that i used to reassemble when i changed for the HD springs, i found that i couldnt squash the spring seat enough to get the originals back in so just used some longer threaded bolts. think they're M8x40 maybe? obviously if anyone does the same, make sure they're good quality bolts, these are 8.8 marked which is good enough i think.



getting the O/S Spring out is more difficult than the N/S. there's no need to compress either, as the tops slide out backwards, but on the O/S it just takes a bit of force to get it past the exhaust box.

reassembled the spring top mount on the new spring.



and all back on the ground. more difficult than it sounds as i didnt think about not being able to get the jack out from under the diff when i put the stands under, making it hard to lower the car down!





all the angles on the front look ok to me too



then after fitting lowering springs, it was pressed straight back into use lugging things about :| clever planning there! yes, that's tuck on the rear axle. did have two large trays of marble tiles in the back though, and a bike :P it sits maybe an inch higher normally, and the arch gap is fairly similar front and rear now too, which means the front has dropped more than the back thankfully



so, all done, will get some more photos up when it's settled a bit too.

drove back up to loughborough this evening, with an entire boot full, seats down and all, and bike on the back. should have got a photo! car feels really good though, much less roll, firm but not crashy ride, and strangely it feels like i'm going a lot slower all the time! was really weird sitting in the slow lane of the motorway all the way to uni, doing about 65MPH which feels like about 50 compared to before! when pressing on a bit before loading up, it did feel a bit more understeery than before, and also seems to follow bumps more than before, i wonder if perhaps it could do with a little more caster?
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:14 AM
raw raw is offline
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met up with some friends and ended up being able to take this when i got back, love this photo a lot at the moment!



yep, set of hydras



in future i'll try to keep this site as well updated as the other one!

hope you all like the updates, and yes, i'm loving D24TIC ownership

Richard
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  #17  
Old 10-27-2013, 03:00 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Location: New York
Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
Posts: 900
Default `New` HYDRA 16 rims

Nice setup!
That`s what you did today? Got Hydras? They look great. Proof: I happened to do the same thing TODAY!
Just curiosity: How much did you pay for the rims?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20131027_140148[1].jpg (96.0 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg 20131027_130602[1].jpg (96.0 KB, 6 views)

Last edited by RedArrow; 10-27-2013 at 03:45 PM. Reason: Added photos.
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  #18  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:08 AM
raw raw is offline
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hi,

not a recent thing, i collected them about two weeks ago now, they're sitting in my room at home as an ornament :P i really want to see how they look on the car, but they might wait until next spring actually - i think i'm going to refurbish them as they're not all mint (one is freshly refurbed, but with a bad spray job, two are good, and the last has some corrosion).

they do look great on your car! out of interest, the size difference between them and your dracos is quite clear, are you running undersize tyres on the front/oversize on the rear?

Richard
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  #19  
Old 10-28-2013, 03:25 PM
RedArrow RedArrow is offline
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Vehicle: 1986 Volvo 745 TD
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Wink Tire oversized or undersized

Quote:
Originally Posted by raw View Post
they're not all mint
...
they do look great on your car! out of interest, the size difference between them and your dracos is quite clear, are you running undersize tyres on the front/oversize on the rear?
Hi, thanks. I wasn`t patient at all to wait how they look so I put them on asap; although they aren`t perfect looking either. I will have to spend at least a few hours each to make them look nice. From now on, I can`t even imagine the car on those Dracos anymore which are only 1inch smaller in diameter but they do look soo small! Also, to me the Dracos look `roundish` (like Virgo rims) and Hydras look more `square`... In my opinion they are a much better match to these beautifully boxy cars, the 700 series, especially the Wagon! A more aggressive, more modern looks, a`newer` design makes car look younger. I`m sure there are many Volvo enthusiasts out there who simply hate them but I love them so far.
Here I mention that driving feels much better, handling and stability improved a LOT! Less road-noise and much less `shaky ride` on small bumps where road surface is bad.
All my tires on these Hydras are 205/55 R16, front and rear too. I don`t know if it means undersized or oversized but I guess it is oversized front&rear. I guess the car could take 225s without fitment issues, especially on rear. The Hydras are 6.5 wide and Dracos are only 6 so for 225s there might be a wider rim needed? Idk, I`m not an expert at rim&tire upgrades (expensive games those are! )

Info for the 1986 760 Turbodiesel, by factory:
Standard tire size: 185/65 HR 15 (This is what I have on the Draco rims btw.)
For the 1986 Turbo (petrol) it is 195/60 HR 15.

(My Hydras with 205/55r16 -s came off a 1990 740.)
Also, Volvo 850 `s have those `swirl-type` rims (16) that fit on 7xx Volvos no problem (5*108 pattern). I think they look good on wagons. See the blue 760 to decide!

Source: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ti...bo_diesel.html

Last edited by RedArrow; 10-28-2013 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Added photos
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  #20  
Old 10-30-2013, 07:42 AM
raw raw is offline
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i have to agree with everything you've said, and i can't wait to see mine on them either, but i'm going to force myself to! i have winter steelies anyway, so they'll be going on soon as i have a funny feeling we're going to have a very short autumn in England this year and go straight to winter very soon!

got to agree with the comment about the 'shape' of the wheel too, IMO hydras and the other one i can't remember the name of suit the shape of the early 700s best, while the galaxies and polaris look best on the later 900 series cars (that said i very nearly bought a set of galaxies this summer :P)

FYI: 205/55/R16 is the correct standard size for R16 on a 700 series, with either 195/60/R15 on alloys or 185/65/R15 on steels being the standard on R15s (i think). mine had 185 15s on the steelies when i first got it, but currently sits on 195/60/R15 on the Omegas that it's on at the moment. to my knowledge this is the correct sizings, and my speedo reads correct up to about 90MPH so I don't doubt this. i'm sure you could get maybe a 225 width on a 16x6.5, but obviously you'd have to go down to maybe a 50 or a 45 profile to keep the rolling radius correct. in theory i don't think there would be any clearance issues with this either

i do quite like the 850 t5 alloys (can't remember the name at the moment), and am thinking of trying to find a set for my mom's V70 maybe, but they would need spacers to correct the offset on a 700. still very chuffed with my finding these hydras though


what's the colour on that 760, it's really lovely!

Richard
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