Whenever disconnecting the injector lines I like to close up the injector inlets. Since I have not been able to locate the appropriate plastic caps I use aluminum foil to cover them, pinched tightly into the threads. Same for the IP delivery valves.
Soaking the injectors in solvent doesn't seem like such a good idea. Too much chance for floating grit to find its way into the injector inlet. The exterior of the injector is not nearly so important to clean or keep clean. Solvent CAN help to clean (I like ultrasonic better) the interior components of the injectors AFTER you disassemble them, and maintain cleanroom standards. Oftentimes the sealing faces and discs need refacing (figure-8 patterns on fine-fine sandpaper on flat glass surface) but upon reassembly, keep all dust, fibers from a piece of thread from a rag, fingerprints*, etc. off the components!
DO try to avoid deforming the protruding pin of the nozzle pintle. Pretty fragile, and will deform if it gets knocked around.
Now I reread your post and see you have no way to test the injectors-- no reason to open them up, and lots of reasons not to.
Here is a good step-by-step to see what is involved:
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?opt...d=20&Itemid=28
More details (not exactly our injectors):
http://dieselgenerators.tpub.com/TM-...400-350084.htm
"To check this fit, lift valve about one third of its length out of the body. The valve should slide down to its seat without aid when assembly is held at a 45 ngle."
This
dropping the pintle into the nozzle when held at a 45deg angle so it slides home by its own weight business is sometimes hard to achieve (*fingerprints here will ruin your day)...
But it is one of the pieces of the puzzle necessary for a good-performing injector.
In the end you want:
1. Correct pop pressure (ideally equal across the injectors)
2. Good spray pattern
3. NO drips or seepage between injection events.
Probably the injector nozzles and IP fuel delivery piston are the highest tolerance machined items in your car.