Okay.. Long story short (shortcutting the IP timing)
Second. Sorry my really worst english, i dont know many mechanical terms
on english, so i had to improve my own words,
but im sure you will figure out what i mean when you think it.
Those words should all be placed between "xxxx" marks.
Basically thats the story.
Distributor belt change: You add "nose-axle" so at
both beaks on cylinder nr.1 points up, so at ventils are free.
Then you search the "zero-mark" from flywheel on back of the engine,
add belt and thats it. You can use 3mm thick piece of something straight,
in back of the "nose-axle" to verify at your "nose-axle" is on position.
There your piece of something will point to west and east, so its crosswise.
Then IP timing. Thats interesting.
Basically, when you check from greenbooks, you first comments
would probably be " what a fuck that takes ages and is hard to do",
and thats why we do it easy way, taking hmm.. 10min.
There, be extremely precise at band wheel from IP
dont spin, since it does it REALLY easy when you remove the old
IP's belt. If that happens, there is line stanssed in IP's band wheel,
which must be in line with body of pump, at 90* angle,
if we imagine at zero-point points up
You disable the effect from cold-start device by turning that square so at it frees wire which comes from "cold-start patron", so at it dont affect to timing.
Now you open the screw in front of the bump, the one where you will
set the timing, by using either "cast-clock" or "push-gauge",
and put your "measuring device" in head of the piston there.
There just put the IP's driving belt to wheels, dont matter yet at in what point.
Then you loose the tightening from "nose-axles" band wheel (from back)
and start to spin IP's band wheel counter-clockwise so long
as the reading in your "measuring device" goes higher.
When you notice it dont go higher anymore, stop there.
Now you will a) reset the reading from "cast-clock", or b)
put the reading on your "push-gauge" to your mind.
Then, now you start to spin IP's band wheel clockwise,
so long at a) reading from your "cast-clock" is 0,9-1,0 ,
or b) 0,9-1 is added to your former reading, be accurate there.
Now you will just simply tigthen the bolt from "nose-axles" back so the band wheel on nose axle, which uses IP's bandwheel via belt,
so at that band.wheel is locked to "nose-axle" and dont move. Eh i mean so at wheel dont spin freely on "nose-axle" anymore
Now it will be timed, if you did everything as told above,
and saved alot time compared to timing-system from greenbook.
Hope you understandet that, may not be so easy thanks my worst english.
EDITED: Added when you will put Ip's Belt on, its highlighted so you see that spot easy if readed before and were thinknig at when i add it.
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