[ngoma]

After a few experimental prototypes (the sockets I started with were too weak), I made a good tool to remove the three-sided bolts out. It was a beefy 1/2" drive 1/2" 6-sided socket. I ground reliefs in three of the walls with a small grinding stone in a dremel tool. The reliefs allow space for the three "points" of the triangle bolts so the remaining three sides of the socket wall can grab the three flat sides of the triangle bolts. The earlier prototypes were 1/2" drive cheap sockets, and their walls were too thin/ material too weak, so they deformed too much to grip the bolts well.

Unless you are positive those seals were leaking you might want to leave them alone. Those bolts are the pivot for the governor lever, which is under strong spring pressure. Which means removing one bolt at a time, and finding some way (clean screwdriver or small prybar) to force governor lever back into position for reinserting the pivot bolts.

One other warning: When replacing the IP cover (removed for replacing the accel. shaft o-ring) be careful the governor spring cage is properly connected to the governor lever and positioned correctly. My car wouldn't start after its reseal and removing its cover showed that the governor cage was disconnected and the cage (lobster claws) was bent, as well as the thin shaft. It is fiddly to get the cover back on, and I still have not figured out how to successfully get the cover back on without damaging anything.

Injectors may or may not need replacing. What other symptoms other than 25 MPG? "OK, so the IP is leaking so bad that a puddle forms on the ground below the engine." <== This could be enough of a leak to noticeably affect MPG.