Whoo bloody hoo : )
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Nr...yVnGEH0rpgWPXX
Bought a timing gauge, just a cheap one. The brass rod that came with it; to place inside the end of the Injection pump and then inside the gauge body was too long for the VE pump so I used a drill bit. Necessity is the mother of invention and all that : )
Anyway, took me a while to get it to the right setting: 80 on the gauge (100th of mm? or whatever)
I adjusted this by moving the end cam cog rather than trying to rotate the IP itself. I'd tried turning the pump before which was almost impossible and certainly wouldn't have allowed any accuracy.
So, this has placed the marks on the IP cog past the mark on the bracket, which turning the pump wouldn't have done but I know this is the case and am happy with it. I might fix this at some point if i have to doo any other work around here but the main thing, nothing was broken and it starts / runs pretty well now.
What I will say to anyone who might stumble across this thread. Static timing of the Injection pump without a gauge is more or less impossible.
Turning the flywheel through the access slot under the IP, even just a fraction of mm had a huge effect on the reading of the gauge, which had a tolerance of + or - 0.02mm, which is pretty small by anyone's calculations.
I had to adjust several times to get the setting right. It looked OK a few times but when i rotated the engine and came back to TDC, it wasn't quite correct, probably due to tension in the IP. Once it was right, I rotated the crank by hand a couple of times with the gauge still in to check that it came back to 0.80 at TDC.
The only way you'd reach a proper setting without a gauge, as far as i can see, if via pure chance.
By the way, I referred to the IP timing sticky here, which was really helpful:
https://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1684
Thanks so much for all your help. I really appreciate your time in replying and advice.