Thread: Fuel Screw
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Old 11-20-2016, 07:31 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Montana, USA
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
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Extremely bad for the motor and the transmission as well.

The cold start linkage uses a ball stud mounted on the advance arm, on the side of the pump facing the driver's side strut tower, that increases idle speed when cold. Adjusting the low idle stop for the pump to bring the warm idle back down after turning up the fuel quantity screw doesn't affect cold idle since the throttle lever stops on this ball stud when cold, instead of on the idle screw. As the engine warms up, the coolant that flows through the loop running to the IP warms up a wax motor that backs off the advance arm, and backs off the fast idle as a result.

You can reduce cold idle speed by moving the ball stud's position on the advance arm. 7 and 8mm wrench and you probably will want to back it all the way off to the far end of its adjustment. Look at where the throttle lever stops when the engine is cold and you'll see how this works. Back it off far enough so that the lever is almost touching the warm idle stop, to make sure you don't continue to race the engine when it starts cold. After that, if you want to increase it again for a little more idle bump when cold, you can do that but be cautious. Too slow is better than too fast.

Remember also when adjusting that fuel screw: too much fuel is bad for the engine. If you see any smoke at full throttle, you need to turn it back down. Once you see smoke, more fuel doesn't give you any more power, just creates massive exhaust temperatures, oil contamination and cylinder head heat. Not good for helping the engine last and you get no benefit from it. Usually you can't get away with turning it all the way in to the stop collar unless you have done other supporting changes, eg opened up exhaust, increased boost, intercooler, larger turbo, etc....
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86 745 D24T/ZF 345k lifted 2.5"
83 764 D24T/M46 155k
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