Those cracks are pretty bad.
D24 has 12mm head bolts same as D24T, only very early D24's had 11mm (1979-1980). You can tell the difference, 11mm bolts have inhex head, 12mm has triple square head. I have never seen an 11mm D24 in the flesh, though theoretically they do exist... I have only ever seen 11mm bolts on old 1.5 VW's.
A 12mm D24 head can bolt right onto D24T, there are only a couple of functional differences, D24 has a narrower vacuum pump push rod bore (14mm instead of 16mm) so you need to keep the pushrod with the head, and D24 does not have the right-angle coolant nipple on the back of the head for the oil cooler connection; however, it does have a freeze plug back there that you can knock out, then you just have to drill and tap a bolt hole for the securing flange and transfer the nipple over from your turbo head.
Or, you can take advantage of it already being blocked off, install a freeze plug to block off the other end of that circuit (at top of thermostat housing), and eliminate the stock oil heat exchanger as a number of people have done. Can either run without it (if not going crazy with boost/fuel/egt and not doing a lot of hills in hot weather), or can retrofit a different oil cooler setup, a few different options there.
The D24T head is technically supposed to also have some less obvious differences in terms of casting material, valves, etc, maybe valve seats too. Realistically the NA head will work just fine at stock power level and probably even well beyond it, long as you don't overheat it, which you can't do anyway regardless of what head you have on it.
If the NA head is in good shape I would probably just bolt it on.
However, I also agree that if that turbo head got cracked that badly the whole motor must have gotten pretty hot -- I would check it thoroughly while you already have it this far apart and make sure the bottom end didn't get hurt. Usually when there is that much heat you see bore and piston damage as well. You said the compression results were good so maybe it got lucky, but I would look carefully for any signs of scoring in the cylinder bores, etc. Now would be an easier time to fix that than later...!