View Single Post
  #10  
Old 02-07-2018, 09:23 AM
neilsontom3000 neilsontom3000 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
We don't use the IP lock pin for setting the timing. The IP cogged pulley is keyed to the shaft and has a small groove in its outer edge that coincides with the fine straight mark on the IP body which will approximately indicate IP TDC position, close enough to correlate with crankshaft and camshaft TDC, close enough to get it dialed in with the dial indicator.

Sorry for the non-concise formatting of the important sticky IP Timing but I suggest studying it and following its procedures.

The IP can be locked down to its mounting bracket in a position a little further away from the engine (to ease R/R of #6 injector GP) without ill effect, as long as the injection high pressure lines are not stressed.

The rear camshaft pulley does not use a key as it needs to be able to rotate freely (until you tighten down the fixing bolt) on the end of the camshaft to set the timing.

Creative workaround on the crank pulley holding tool. Will it work on the other side of the fan pulley snout when tightening the crank pulley bolt? I presume it is not resting on the fan hub, to protect its bearings. How do you plan to set the high torque on the bolt?

The Dogleg 17mm offset wrench is a great help dealing with the rear camshaft bolt.
The Cam pulley holder is a must, for approaching and attaining the desired timing setting.
The Injector line wrench sure makes R/R the injector lines almost enjoyable!

These special tools are shown here, D24 Special Tools.
Thanks for the info and links Ngoma, I'll check them out later this evening.

Got enough meat off the IP lock pin to fit, still too bloody cold out there for working on cars really, my fingers were done in minutes, I must be getting soft in older age lol

[IMG][/IMG]

yup IP lock pin is just to get tdc, and i will allow the rear cam pulley to spin on the nose until torque up, I dont have the special tool with the drive adapter for the rear cam bolt, It was a son of bitch to get anything on the end of it to free-off, I eventually bought a set Neilson 'aviation' spanners which are straight and I could just manage to get decent purchase on it, I'll need to guesstimate the final torque on it though, as theres no chance of getting a torque wrench in there. As i look at that photos though the notch on the IP pulley still looks a bit off line, maybe I need to come around 1 hole clockwise on the pulley, also i'm thinking i'll probably need to move the IP bracket to tension the belt? not sure!

On the rear cam pulley, that is the cam pulley in the pic off the car, not the IP pulley, was just surprised to see it also had a notch on the outer edge and was slotted, albeit the rear cam nose has no slot, and theres nothing to line a notch up to.

I made a cam pulley holder, which should do the job, i'll probably need to use shorter bolts for the front cam though, and might put a brace piece across it to stop it folding.

The adapted crank locking tool has a slightly longer back spacer so it takes the brunt on the inner side of the fan housing and not the front bearing, all attempts to beg, borrow or steal a truck sized torque wrench failed, I eventually got a decent price on a second hand Norbar off fleebay, that goes to 352 ftlbs...

[IMG][/IMG]

Looking at this following photo Ngoma, perhaps a dumb question, but with everything on TDC, cam locked off, but with pulleys allowed to spin, tension off belt etc..will I have sufficient valve clearance to move the engine back on the dampener to get the crank lock in place on the left side of the fan housing for crank bolt torque up, before I move back clockwise to TDC and torque up the everything else?, i'd have assumed even with the correct Volvo tool, it would need to be moved off TDC slightly to lock in place.

[IMG][/IMG]

Cheers.
Reply With Quote