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Old 02-27-2014, 02:05 PM
v8volvo v8volvo is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: MT
Vehicle: '86 745, '83 764
Posts: 996
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FWIW, the biggest hassle of this job is just removing and reinstalling all 20+ of the oil pan bolts -- other than that, more straightforward than you would think! I didn't take any pictures as it went back together, but it was not bad, even getting the x-member and motor mounts lined back up was not difficult. Cleaning pan and block gasket surfaces was a little tricky because of the close quarters, but if we had removed the pickup tube fully (another 3 bolts) the pan could have been removed fully rather than just lowered. I think that would be a better way to do it the next time.

I had never seen a leak in this location before, but getting the new gasket with a break in the same place made it pretty clear how it could happen. This car (a converted gas 960) had just had an alternator belt replacement weeks before this leak sprung, and in the final stages of buttoning it back up, I discovered that the alt bracket bolt (which goes thru pump housing into block) was too short and had pulled threads, wasn't clamping at all. The engine had put on about 1000 miles since rebuild without leaking, so I suspect the gasket was compromised as ngoma described at installation, and then losing the clamping at that point let it move a little more and tipped it over the edge. Big leak! If the rebuilder had noticed the damaged gasket, it probably wouldn't have leaked, but maybe eventually still would have had an issue b/c of that bolt. Fortunately still had enough threads further down that a longer bolt had something to bite.

One area where we were lucky to save some time: removing timing belt, I pulled the idler roller out of the front cover rather than disturbing water pump position (and belt tension), then reassembled the same way -- never popped cam sprocket off to set timing, only reinstalled belt, idler and crank sprocket. We checked timing at the IP before disassembly (*cold* engine so as to ensure no timing shift due to expansion of block and head), and again after, and it did not change. A little bit of luck here because the crank sprocket's key has a bit of play, but no complaints! Not having to take off cam sprockets and valve cover for full timing procedure is a good savings of work, if it goes in your favor.

Might want to add to the above list: battery + cable clamps have to be separated at RH motor mount and front of member for member to drop, and power steering connections at the rack have to be disconnected (and p/s fluid refilled afterwards). The 960 only needed one of the connections (return IIRC) taken off because the pressure hose was longer, but a stock 740 would need both. None of the steering and suspension parts have to be disconnected; if engine is also lifted a couple inches from above, the x-member can hang on the struts and drops far enough to get the pan down with ease, and the crossmember goes back in with guide pins so front end alignment doesn't change significantly.
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