Leave it at TDC. Tighten the crank pulley bolt as best you can, using your pulley counterhold tool in one hand, wrench in the other.
Do a camshaft timing while at TDC. Tighten the camshaft pulley bolt. Now you should be able to rotate the engine without interference.
Rotate as necessary to place the counterhold tool against the other side of the fan pulley snout. Go back and reef on the crank pulley bolt.
Rotate the crank CW one time.
Check the belt tension again (we don't expect it to have changed anymore but it's an easy check).
Back at TDC, check the camshaft timing, adjust if necessary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by neilsontom3000
at least it will be a load better than the 15 odd ftlbs it had on it (incidentally the belts were 25,000 miles off requiring a change!!)
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Looks like you dodged a bullet!
Quote:
Originally Posted by neilsontom3000
I might have a replica of tool 5201 in mind, I'll sleep on that
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You can do it-- doesn't have to be pretty-- Just put a couple doglegs like in the photo-- the square socket drive is really not necessary. Get the bolt tight but not crazy tight. Don't recall this one ever loosening on its own, but if it does, it will not damage the engine.
Quote:
Originally Posted by neilsontom3000
Only thing i don't quite get is how I can freely turn over the bottom end, without contacting a valve at some point through its rotation unless it was timed to the cam /attached by the belt, or do you mean i can turn freely off TDC for just that small range I need to lock my tool.
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If you crank the engine carefully by hand, you can percieve if there is a contact happening before doing any damage.