I have purchased a number of dead and near death diesel volvos over the years , mostly from boneyards, almost ALL of them had had recent timing belt changes at a reputable shop right before being declared dead. Upon checking, I found them ALL to be WAY off. in one case I purchased the carcase directly from the shop that had screwed one up, a highly reputable foreign car repair shop, and he didn't pitch for the special tools, he just tried to swap on a belt and it turned the thing into a trot line sinker, he even tried to take ot to a diesel specialty shop after to get it running and they couldn't , so thinking that you can put a belt on one of these without the tools is just plain crazy. Even going to a dealer isn't going to help you, they generally don't have anyone with teh tools or knowledge to do teh job correctly either ( back when I still had my shop open, the local dealer would send diesels my way, as I own the only complete set of tools and books for teh things within a few state area, and it was a rare occasion, I owned most of teh diesel volvos in the state)
The only way to do it is with the method in the green manual. DO NOT use Chiltons, there are errors in it ( chiltons did a poor attempt to copy info from the green manual and botched a few things up )
A good VW diesel mechanic can usually take care of it, otherwise never trust a general mechanic. THey don't own the tools and are not about to spend $500 on special tools to do a job, and will very often lie about being properly equipped since they own a bunch of general timing belt tools, they THINK they can do the job. If you have to spend $850-1000 to get it done, then DO IT, this is not a rediculous amount of money for a repair in thes times, going rate for a 960 timing belt is $900-1200 and that job doesn't even require any special tools and most guys could do it blindfolded.
You need the dial indicator ( the set for a d24/d24t, not the VW set, the dial face on teh vw set is too large and will not allow you to adjust the pump, the d24 set includes a small face dial indicator that will allow movement of teh pump, these are available on ebay germany fairly cheap ), lock plate set for timing, a crankshaft counterhold tool to keep from turning the engine while popping the crank bolt off, The crank bolt extention tool is highly reccomended unless you just happen to own a 3/4" drive torque wrench that goes to around 350 ft lbs and the appropriate 3/4" drive socket for teh crank ( trying to use a 1/2" drive socket and 1/2-3/4" adapter will result in an adapter twisted in half ) and you need the special wrench for teh rear cam gear bolt
While a 16v gasser t belt job isn't exactly a walk in the park, especially if you have to rebuild the countershaft setups in teh process, it is still childsplay compared to a t belt on a d24.
One thing the bookdoesn't mention, but I always use a dab of locktite on teh cam bolts , flange and the front taper. Even when properly torqued , these things CAN vibrate loose and will destroy the engine if not caught. The locktite will prevent that from happening.
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