View Single Post
  #6  
Old 12-13-2014, 05:08 PM
Fridgewagon Fridgewagon is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 13
Default

^this.

Little rough looking for an mls. Cut super smooth almost not at all with these on a really large fly cutter (no small diameter ones or you get a valley) and then final polish on a granite flat table wet gets them actual flat and smooth as a sheet of glass.

I've had a couple or these have a warped block.

The only guys I've seen complain about mls gaskets (besides subaru guys with the stock ones) have been guys with straight 6 engines. (supra, BMW, and these, mostly, actually). Most of the time, from ones ive sorted out for a couple people, the issue isn't so much the gasket design as torquing many times in small increments, cleanliness, and flatness and roughness of surface. Looking at that gasket compared to a factory one though, the fire rig looks a little different Aldine the Pre chamber. I would think the sealing ring would need to go "around" he Pre-chamber, and some fire/heat proof material would rest under he Pre chamber under light compression to hold it in place, which the Oe gasket looks to do, or am i losing it?

The mls is also unforgiving about torque. I find, even wih the SOHC red Volvo motor with the stretch/angle tighten bolts that you have to loosen and repeat and repeat torque the bolts in very small increments several times. The gasket is super hard and the head squishes down on it. I've tightened a couple excellent condition totally straight flat heads and had the center bolts be almost loose again after the outers were tightened.

What do people do for torquing procedure for the studs more generally speaking? Stock torque procedure? Same thread pitch? Nuts and spring washers (like TE thick ones on the Volvo turbo exhaust manifold) used? Inquiring minds want to know.

I've had to repair a couple '80 diesels with the 11mm bolts and had to buy two sets of expensive, obscure sized quality studs. What a PITA...

A good stud kit, gradual torque procedure, a little sealant and perfectly clean flat surfaces would probably put the HG issue to bed...provided you adjust valves and dont overheat it...

Do the heads on these crack without an overheat? Ive always wanted to know. I've seen them crack and repaired them, but never owned one since new and watched the temp gauge like a hawk either.

I plan to build a tic motor for mine and will tow with it a lot, so it will not be boosted to the sky but I want it to last and don't want it to leave me stranded. Good usable torque/no fuss. Wish they made a bellhousing for the 4 speed auto and 260 slanted motor, don't want to do any custom work for the sump/accessories/engine mounts, prefer the auto.

Last edited by Fridgewagon; 12-13-2014 at 06:06 PM.
Reply With Quote