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Old 07-22-2018, 12:41 PM
monkeh monkeh is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Newport, Wales. UK
Vehicle: 940 d24tic
Posts: 33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngoma View Post
Removing the entire EGR system will tidy up the area quite nicely, with no ill effects. This includes the microswitches on the IP throttle lever, the vac lines running out along the firewall to the airbox, to the metal disk diaphragm (and can remove that itself) on the opposite side, to the heater hose/drain valve under the vacuum pump.

Do keep the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the intake manifold to the ip. Mine tees to the instrument panel boost gauge, where does yours tee to?

The other best tidying up I did was to remove the EGR metal piping that runs between the intake and exhaust manifolds. Removed all that at its flanges and installed simple blockoff plates in their place. Gave much better access. That area was constantly greasy dirty, solved that by replacing the turbo/intake manifold interconnect hose, 1-7/8" (48mm) silicone radiator hose, now it stays clean.

The boost warning never worked on any of my cars so I suppose you don't really need it.
Thankfully, there is a 2 port banjo on the injection pump so that'll be the feed for the boost gauge, I saved my last 760's intake manifold intermediate piece so that's been lined up to fit there.
Had a few minutes having a pull away, removed the egr vac lines, there isn't any warm air feed to the air box, but I'm going to fit a k and n cone type filter
I also saved the exhaust manifold, but I may just cut off the flex pipe and get the flange welded up.
I have to figure out the cruise control system as that doesn't work. Suspect it may be the small vac pump itself. I do want to get that working.
There are 2 vac lines that go from the vac supply down to what look like a water temperature sensor underneath the vac pump, what's that things purpose? I have a working cold start system, It looked like that might me related as it goes up to the wax motor?.
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