Thanks Jason,
Your measuring of 200F means 88c at this side of the ocean, thats the temp at wich the thermostat is supposed to be all open.Did you take that measurement while your engine was idling?I can see on my display that the temperature is going down when i go from 120KM/hour to let's say 50 KM/h.
That maybe explains the difference in our readings.
Yesterday i went for a trip with the Volvo and measured return-water at 72 celcius.The water coming out of the head was 99.7 celcius, but no worry, cooks at about 110 celcius by the pressurised coolingsystem.
I'm planning to make a new graph in wintertime so we can get a idea how much time it takes to get the engine running at a nomal temp. The best conditions for an engine to give max. power/rpm's are when the oil is at normal temp. as you can see, the original temp. in the volvo-dash is reading "normal" (middle) while the oil-temp. still is rising to reach it's normal point.In wintertime it will take much longer i assume.
I made this graph (and the coming one) also to have a backup for myself and all of you to have any idea what's normal when troubleshooting on temp. problems.
I found the pictures a made of the fan's and the thermoswitch just before soldering to the radiatorhousing.(soldering-socket made out of an plumbingpart of pressure-air-system of a truck)
The green one is the plumbingpart before modding, the brass one after.The thread is metric 22mm both plumbingpart and thermoswitch
The switch is from KW (manufacter) and has the number 08.8550
The temperatures are as following;
fan 1 on at 90 c out at 80 c c= celcius
fan 2 on at 97 c out at 87 c
You find the switch at the following cars;
seat, skoda, vw