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Old 04-08-2013, 12:07 PM
Nevadan Nevadan is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Reno, Nevada
Vehicle: 740/745 D24T will be mine again soon
Posts: 253
Default Familiarity with the process.

I also doubt it's the valve cover gasket, just hoping (praying??) for a quick fix.

Now that I have the proper tools and understand the process it will be much easier this time. Just having all the bolts and fasteners cleaned and lubricated will save about 50% of the time.

I pressed the seal in with a home-made tool: a piece if PVC pipe that was a perfect fit both inside and outside diameter, a large flat washer and the crank bolt. It worked beautifully.

I'm going to measure the depth of the seal "seat" and see if I just pushed it in to far, collapsing the seal lip on the engine side. I'm also going to use the "thinner" seal I have as a spare. I will definitely inspect the seal "seat" upon removal.

When I installed this leaking seal I looked in there and all seemed fine. It was difficult to view, even with the radiator removed but it looked o.k. When I removed the old original seal I'm fairly certain I did not scar the seal "seat" since I was able to grab the seal without touching the aluminum part of the "seat".

It's always easer to make the right decision looking back!!! One of my favorite sayings when it comes to decision making: "We look through this tiny little peephole up front and have an 8 foot rearview mirror! And then the justification: The reason I changed it is there was some dried oil/dirt in that general area as well as on that quarter-moon shaped aluminum piece below the crank pulley.
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J.D. in Reno
1958 Mercedes 180D (rebuilding now)
1985 VW Jetta 1.6TD
1985 Volvo 745 Wagon 2.4TD (sold but still maintain it)
1987 VW Quantum Syncro 2.2 (converting to 2.0TD)
1996 TDI Passat
1997 Chevy 3/4 ton 6.5TD
2006 V10 TDI Touareg

Last edited by Nevadan; 04-08-2013 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Added "And then the justification:"
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