Quote:
Originally Posted by CapnSass
Thanks for the info! I'll check out DFIS today.
We had a heck of a time trying to get the car to run afterwards. We didn't have the timing tools but followed the manual & the guys doing it are competent & familiar with diesels of this sort. Anyway, after trying and trying took it to our diesel mechanic buddy who reported back that the pump is no good.
As far as symptoms... I am going to describe these to the best of my listening-in or overhearing girlie-self can. Symptoms we encountered were either black smoke or white smoke depending on where the pump was timed. Then we had trouble with the throttle, as in no throttle control (push on gas, does nothing). After hours of fussing with it, the boys decided to break and sleep on it. They decided to call in the diesel mechanic friend.
I didn't speak directly to the diesel mechanic friend but what I overheard & understood was that he the same problems with the throttle control, or lack of. The pump doesn't respond to the order for more or less fuel.
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What repair manual were you following for installing the pump, the Volvo green manual or something different? What exact steps did the mechanics take to set the injection timing -- was it all "by feel" or visual? Did the motor have a lot of difficulty starting even after the fuel system was re-primed?
The problems you're describing could possibly be due to an internal injection pump problem, sticking throttle control can result from that, I have seen it once or twice on pumps that sat "uncorked" for a long time where old fuel exposed to air turned into gum. (How long ago was this IP removed from a good-running motor?)
However, your symptoms can absolutely also be a result of unsuccessful installation and timing of an otherwise-healthy injection pump. In particular, the fact that the inability to control engine speed is paired with excessive smoke makes me strongly question how the pump was installed and timed. Those two symptoms have separate causes, and having them together is pretty unusual. I think it is more likely, or at least very possible, that the pump is fine and the problem lies with how it was set up.
At this point, before taking any other steps, I really suggest getting *all* of the correct tools and information and verifying beyond any doubt that the pump is installed and timed correctly, by going through the complete timing procedure from start to finish. Right now you're running blind; the pump might be the problem, but it might not. It's a lot less work (and money!) to figure out where you sit now, and then make an informed decision about what steps to take next, than it is to blindly change the pump again and possibly find that the pump was not the problem!
The tools you need are readily available to buy for under $50: here is a good-quality ZDMak set for $49
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Tools-Bosc..._Tools&vxp=mtr Or, there are several members on this forum, myself included, who will be happy to loan you their set for free (with deposit in my case).
Beyond that, all you need is the step-by-step procedure for checking injection timing. This can be found in the D24 or D24T green books, both of which can be viewed in their entirety online at a number of sources, including this one:
http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...24_repairs.pdf
The procedure has also been discussed extensively here on the forum, and you can find many tips about it if you want to do some reading. Here is one post that goes through it in detail:
http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=6253&postcount=16
And another thread:
http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=928
And you'll find many more if you look around the "Engine" or "Help!" sections a bit.
Be sure to use the procedures that describe how to just *check* the timing, not those that describe how to adjust it. At this point, all you want to do is establish where it is set now, as a baseline. If it needs to be changed, you will do that after determining where it is set now.
Other notes:
- Did you remember what we mentioned about the "in" and "out" banjo bolts for the fuel supply and return? If these are reversed, inability to increase engine speed above idle and excessive smoke are the typical effects, so check this again carefully.
- How recent is your fuel filter? Any air in the translucent fuel line from the filter to the IP inlet when the motor is running?
- Pay close attention, when checking timing, to the position of the *camshaft* as well as the crankshaft. The crank turns over twice for every revolution of the cam, so therefore it is possible to install the injection pump 180 degrees out of phase even though it appears to be timed correctly with reference to the crank. Often in these cases the engine will start (with difficulty) and run, but will have very limited control over engine speed and smoke copiously. Sound familiar?
You can easily verify whether the cam is at #1 TDC by checking whether the vacuum pump pushrod is at maximum or minimum extension when the crank is at TDC. (You'll have the vacuum pump removed anyway to install the dial indicator in the IP.)
- If you find that the timing is out of spec, check back here on the forum for tips on how to adjust it. There are a number of different methods, and some are easier than others.
- Most important: DO NOT allow anyone to use STARTING FLUID, or ether, to start the engine, even if they are very frustrated or they believe it will help! Ether causes immediate major engine damage to D24 family engines (as well as many others). It absolutely must not be used under any circumstances.
So, you have some ways you can move forward towards getting it fixed here. Diagnose it before you buy any more parts! Let us know how we can help!