It's always supposed to be tight with the engine off.
If you turn do anything but turn the lock block, it's a factory adjustment which will cost you $350 to $700 to restore.
If the engine is running, the advance lever is easier to pull forward unless your pump internal pressure is very low.
Before you mess with it,
with your engine cold;
1 Does the ball stud
cold idle contact the downward tab of the throttle arm?
yes/
no
2 Is there a dirt shadow showing the 'diesel engineers' have moved the
cold idle ball stud
yes/
no
3 The ball stud is NOT at the end of its adjustment slot
yes/
no
4 Does the
hot idle tab of the throttle arm rest against its stop screw?
yes/
no
5 Is the
cold advance arm resting against the stop tab on the pump body?(there is a gap at green dash in pic)
yes/
no
6 Is idle speed above 1200 RPM
yes/
no
Now
warm up the engine and have another look
1 Is idle speed below 900 RPM
yes/
no
2 Is the
cold advance arm resting against the stop tab on the pump body?(there is NO gap at green dash in pic)
yes/
no
3 Does the
hot idle tab of the throttle arm rest against its stop screw?
yes/
no
4 Does the ball stud
cold idle contact the downward tab of the throttle arm?
yes/
no
Depending what you find, it may or may not be necessary to manipulate the unit itself or perform other tests.
proper condition findings are in green. If you get green across the board, it's working.
Please make an effort to record all the answers in order and post them here.
yes/
no
yes/
no