Car
 

Yes. The whole system. Includes the injectors hard lines. Used a syphom pump to get it done.

GP's are getting their 12v. System is working fine.

The two blue wires (they send 12v with the switch on). If I used them instead the other two (yellow/blue) a short circuit cut the whole system. I turn the key to on and no lights/cranking happens.

The shutoff solenoid was not clicking. I put it apart, cleaned up. Now is clicking. :)

Will continue tomorrow.

Thanks for all the feedback.

I am going to start this bad boy. Its mad at me....... :)

Looks like you have a wiring problem. You will have to work around it in order to get the car started ASAP, so just hotwire the fuel shutoff solenoid for now w/ +12VDC. You really don't need anything more than that. Fuel, good cranking speed, glowplugs, compression-- that's it!

Hold the throttle wide open when attempting to start, and verify you have fuel dripping from loosened injector line nuts at the injectors during cranking. If not, the car will not start. (You must retighten the injector lines to the injectors after verifying fuel is being sent to the injectors. 18 ft-lbs. means do not overtighten.)

PS: Can you describe how you bled the injector hardlines with the siphon pump? Curious to maybe find out a new method.

Timed the car again.
TDC . Pump to .087
Car is coughing.
Found out problems with the within harness connections closer to the go relay.
Will fix problems.
Sometimes car does nor crank at all and the 12 volts to up solenoids cut off.
More to follow.

Car
 

Resending due to typos.

Timed the car again.
TDC and camshaft re-check.
IP to .087
Car is coughing. Almost started. Then quit overall. No cranking.
Found out problems with the wiring harness connections closer to the glow plug relay.
Will fix problems.
Sometimes car does not crank at all, and the 12 volts to injection pump solenoids cuts off.

More to follow.

Wiring harness
 

Working on the wiring harness.:confused:
Some cables got loose and do not know the arrangement. Please help.

The first one is the relay located next to the glow plugs relay. It is a 4-prongs plug. The female plug is broke and have cables loose. Colors are yellow, blue, green, black. See pic of the relay.

The other plug is in the same area. This one is flat 3-prongs. Two wires are beige and the other one is yellow. One of the wires connect to the relay above. Need to know which one is, and where the other two connect.

Would apreciate that any of you send me pics of both plugs to determine the arrangement.:)

Car is alnost ready to start. :)

Wiring
 

Guys,
Please help me with my request in my previous entry above.
Thanks.

I'm not sure what that beige relay is for, I would assume it has something to do with the EGR.
I can try to post some pictures of the main harness and glow plug harness ends if that helps. It won't be until later tonight after I'm done digging out a 760 harness.
If the engine is in time, in good health, injection system in good health and the fuel system fully purged you can just easily apply 12 volts to the fuel shutoff solenoid, apply 12 volts to the glow plugs for ~10 seconds and crank the starter. It should fire right up.
These engines need very little to run.
I run just about every engine before I install one, it takes very little.

I looked it up in the greenbooks yesterday. Its called a delay
relay. Like Anders said it's for the EGR system. I'm eliminating it from my 740TD. You may try checking the glow plugs individually with jumper cables and a hot battery. I didn't bother with #6. Its a beast.

Wiring
 

Car will not crank unless those wires are setup properly. :(

Wiring
 

Glow plugs are getting 12v
Both solenoids at the IP are getting 12v
How do I get rid of the Delay relay next to the go relay?
How to do the wiring to get rid of it?