--Moved-- New from PDX
 

Figured I'd say hello.

Getting ready to acquire tools to to the T-belt and re-time the injection pump and do glow plugs.

Recommendations for where to buy the special tools, a replacement cold start device, replacement engine wiring harness, fresh water pump,, fresh nozzles with a rebuild procedure and fresh glow plugs and all that?

It's about to need a t-belt. Advancer lever works on the injection pump (verified), compression is good, timing seems a bit off, it is extremely loud when moving the advancer lever (for cold start device) into the advanced position (cold start device disabled, idling speed raised to compensate).

Is it possible to update to the 84.5+ glow plug relay arrangement? I pulled one of those relays, but mine, being an '83 265GL M46, has the 2 relay setup and is awkwardly stuck on. I'd be fine with fixing the 2-relay arrangement I guess, as long as I can wire in a larger relay to carry the current.

More interested in quality lasting repairs than temporary. Need the cold start device, doesn't want to fire up when it is 27F out, but if you zip-tie the lever all the way advanced it starts, though it runs waay scary noisy like that, so I'm guessing someone kinda split the difference on the advance on that.

Have met Kevin, SMN3D, casioqv in person. Never met V8volvo. I used to passionately hate these, as you'd never make book time flat rate on them, stink of diesel, and 1/8" cracks in the head were allowable per the book :wtf: Now, I'm kinda OK with it given it's my car and I don't have to hustle too much...and old car is an old car.


James from PDX.

This is interesting to me. Popular experience is that the cold start advance is not capable of much advance to really help cold starting, and most of its effect comes from the idle speed boost portion of the mechanism. Many who have a failed cold start waxstat actuator disable the action (via turning the cable disengagement barrel to the "set timing" position, i.e. providing slack in the cable) to avoid problems of running all the time with advance/high idle, as the waxstat actuator almost always fails in the cold position. Me included, and has been starting right up in the recent cold snap.

What is the state of the altitude compensator? Should be receiving +12VDC, otherwise it can be adding additional advance.

Most cold start problems involve the glow plugs. Depending on the engine and environment, one bad GP cause hard starting, two bad GPs can make starting near impossible. If your GP relay is always stuck on, you may have damaged one or more GPs. I don't see why you can't upgrade the relay to the newer. If you do, get the newest version as it is reprogrammed to glow better for those problematical warm starts, and provide afterglow.

For parts, I have used autohauszaz.com, gowesty.com, fcpeuro.com, ipdusa.com, tasca, rockauto. We like the Monark injector nozzles, info somewhere in this forum. When changing the t-belt, it makes sense to replace the idler, and the IP belt at the same time. I think Volvo coldstart waxstat is currently cheaper than from Bosch. Try tasca for that.

Where are you located? Maybe another nearby member has timing tools they can loan you?

Located in Portland, OR.

Moving the lever all the way to advanced makes it possible to start in the cold, though very loud and scary sounding, have no verified timing.

I know the #6 glow plug is dead and have stopped driving it due to mostly that.

I have no trouble hot starting it whatever (no glow). It can be a pretty cold day and it will snap right to life even if left to sit for an hour+ or more at 30F or something.

Warm days, you barely had to glow it and it would snap to life almost immediately.

I just want the glow plug circuit to work reliably and not stick on and fry the glow plugs or risk frying them mostly. Glow plugs that last the longest? Help?

Teh Bosch Duratherms are self regulating and seem to hold up well...
Though I did run Chinese no name glows for 2 years and thy were still fine when i replaced em.

2nd the Bosch Duratherms. Should last several years if the timing is not overly advanced, and avoid the ether. Stay away from the Autolites, known to mushroom and disintegrate inside the head.

Good sign of probable healthy compression, most important for an IDI engine.

Make sure the GP relay is seeing the head temp. signal. Usually a brown wire coming off of the temp sensor at the rear of the head, just below the rear cam sprocket. If disconnected, the open connection fools the GP relay into thinking it's max cold and requires max GP time.

I suspect the timing is over-advanced. Idles a little fast hot, sounds TERRIBLE with the advance lever pulled via the cold start device actually connected.

Will replace the 2 dead glow plugs that are obviously open circuit. I'm sure that doesn't help start-up.

Plenty of deferred maintenance needed:

Tbelt(s0, water pump, tensioner, head rebuild, glow plugs, glow plug circuit, cold start device (less critical), probably rebuild the injectors.

Has a fresh injection pump and is pretty "fast" for a diesel. If its ~60F out or warmer, needs only brief glow once in the morning while its cold, then good the rest of the day thereafter basically. No afterglowing or anything really needed.

Is your cold start failed on and alt compensator not on with the key?

Cold start is disabled and totally slack. Idle is bumped up, it's singling along at almost 1000 idling speed hot. I rigged up some zip-ties just to test that the lever on the pump worked on last startup as a temporary thing. That's when the really scary loud running, but started at all on like 4/6 glow plugs on a cold day (20f?) before I had to move it once and then parked it for now till I can fix it up.

The altitude compensator is not present, it's an '83. That's an 84+ thing, no?
Could be added tho? Might be nice? *shrug*

There is one on my '83 motor FWIW
The spade terminal on the side of the pump needs power (unless you are above 6000 feet). Motor sounds like a bag of rocks when it comes unplugged.

hm..well I don't remember seeing it, just the shutoff.

Sorry for the fragmented reply.

Will see if I can score some of the special tools to work on this thing properly. It's my second car, wish it towed a little better, I'd use it as the primary car. I don't like 7 series cars, they tow ok and I've had a few, but they aren't my thing, and drive terribly in snow, hate the interior and electrical, cargo compartment not the right shape for carrying tools around. Sedans are worthless to me. 245 isn't quite safe/big enough to comfortably tow another car with regularly in some traffic/varied road conditions. Don't want to buy a pick-up truck with big expensive tires, PITA to park, no fun in the rainy climate, don't care about going off road either. So 265 diesel and short van it is.

Wish mine was just a white, no roof rack '83 DL, but Diesels were GL models up to sometime 1984.

Qualitatively, how "quiet" should one run? This one doesn't sound like a bag of rocks, but it certainly is a far far cry from a perfect mercedes OM603 running really good fuel on a fresh set of Monark nozzles. Maybe a little loud, petty snappy. Has good service records, and it actually has ~200K mi on it.

Are these "made in France" "Monark" nozzles still available?
http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=103...onarch+nozzles

Sounds about like most healthy freshened up Rabbit/Jetta diesels I've seen really carefully freshened or some with under 30K on them from my memory (my memory is getting dim), just more of it (6 holes).

Sounded terrible pulling the cold start lever forward, like...alarming.