Converting to D24 :)
hi, i'm new on here but been a member on volvoforums.org.uk for a while. i'm from England and currently 18, my first car is an '89 740 that we bought back in '06 and have been running ever since. i've been maintaining it and learning about it ever since, and driving it since i passed my driving test last year and it's just passed 232000 miles. originally it's a B200E N/A 8 valve petrol 740 GL so pretty pathetic.
here's my thread on volvoforums.org.uk for anyone interested: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=99391 plans have always been to put a more interesting engine in when i could afford to, originally it was always probably going to be a B230FT from a 940, but in the last year or so (mainly thanks to Steve with his 960 converted to D24 power), i've been more and more keen on the D24, and eventually decided this was the way i was going to go, but not until i could afford the insurance and had some money for the swap. as we all know, the best laid plans always go wrong, and on tuesday morning i was pulling off the motorway on my way to university (i'm an aeronautical engineering student), when the temperature skyrocketed and when i managed to pull over i found all my coolant was everywhere but in the engine. first time the car has actually broken down in the 6 years we've had it, but before long (before it had cooled down) i'd decided that the tired, knocking B200 had driven it's last mile, and was on the lookout for a D24TIC :) a few months back i had been talking to a guy off the VOC who had advertised a 940 D24 on the forums for sale, and had said that i'd be interested in buying his car maybe, if he could wait till the end of the summer, but i thought that the uncertainty in my emails, and the fact that it would involve a lot of waiting had put him off, and even thought maybe he had sold the car. after trying every volvo specific breaker in england, and drawing a blank, i finally decided to give him a try just in case, and ten minutes later we'd exchanged 5 emails and settled on £350 as a price. if only i'd tried that first! the donor car is a '95 940 which seems to be pretty much tsorlanda spec and has no MOT thanks to rusted sills, however it has a good, well maintained D24TIC and an M90 gearbox (albeit with no synchro on first). still, for that price and given i cant find another i'm not complaining! here's the for sale thread when the car was first advertised: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=172893 so, plan is to swap the engine and drivetrain from the 940 to my 740, along with any other bits that i might need. hopefully this will be fairly soon as i'm getting annoyed with having no car again after just a week! i'll also be nicking a few other bits from the 940 if they're better than mine. future plans i'm looking at an electric fan conversion, MBC and boost gauge, more fuel and boost (within reason for now), but first i'll be doing a timing belt and all that to basically go stage 0 first. having just finished rebuilding the D5252T (AEL) in mom's V70 i don't want to have another cam belt failure of a Volkswagen diesel to deal with! that's pretty much it for now, i'll have to get some pics up sometime, but they'll probably be the swap in progress and then the car afterwards rather than any of my stuff from before as i cba to post all the stuff that's in my project thread off VOC again. hope you all like my plans, if anyone has any advice then please, please give it to me as i need all the help i can get i think! Richard |
Sounds like fun! A handful of us on here have done the gas-diesel swap. It is definitely easiest to do when you have a complete donor vehicle and the space to keep both cars around until the completed swap car is on the road with all the bugs worked out. You will be surprised how many little bits are needed off the diesel to make it all work smoothly! If you're familiar with the innards of the AEL TDI motor you'll have no trouble getting used to working on the D24TIC, they are closely similar in their construction.
The swap is fairly straightforward but it does take quite a bit of time. If this is your only vehicle, you should be prepared to be without it for a while! You can see how I did one here last year: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=715 My only hints (which I mentioned in that thread) would be to use as many of the original diesel chassis/electrical/fuel system parts as possible to make things fit together. The result is always cleaner, simpler, and easier if you use the bits that are already made for the job instead of trying to re-engineer the whole thing with a welder and a hacksaw. I've worked on a couple of converted wagons (one 740 and two 960's) that were originally built by a guy who decided he couldn't be bothered to take anything except the engine and trans off the donor car, and equally couldn't be bothered to read the wiring diagrams and figure out how to most easily mate the diesel engine wiring with the gasser body. Those cars were a mess -- poorly fitting engines with home-made mounts, lots of wiring snaking everywhere under the hood, vibration problems from the drivetrain mounting geometry being off-kilter, sloppy welding everywhere, etc. Those cars also had constant electrical issues needing fixed. If the original components are used, the end result can be the car looks and works just like a stock diesel Volvo under the hood -- in fact, if you really do it carefully, it should be impossible for an onlooker to tell that it was ever anything other than an original diesel car! Moreover it saves time and hassle for you, both in assembling it and making it reliable afterwards. All that said -- it's even easier still to buy an original Diesel in good shape and make it nice. There's a forum member selling one here in the UK in pretty good shape for £300: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1053 Just one alternative, especially if you need to have a running vehicle in the meantime... Welcome to the forum -- keep us posted on how it goes and don't forget to post pictures! |
well, i had actually read your thread before i started mine :)
cheers for all the advice, and the plan is for it to be as though it was always a diesel, i'm a bit of a perfectionist and quite OCD with these things so i'm sure it should be ok. theres no real rush, as i've only actually been driving the car for about a month or so (until then i'd only been insured on and off when i was home from uni) so i'm not really used to having a car on the road. besides, at the moment it barely runs, never mind drives so i have as much time as it takes to get it right, only issue is that i have exams at uni in a week or so and i probably ought to be revising instead! yes i could just go and buy a D24 car and make it nice, but F69's been with us for 6 years now, and i've got no intentions of getting rid of it, just planning on making it mine. probably not cost effective or practical, but then again you're talking to someone who just rebuilt the top end of a V70 which cost £700 in the end, and the car was only worth at best £1000, so practical isnt what we do really! more soon Richard |
my parts car arrives in less than an hour :D :D :D, will get some pics up when it's here :)
Richard |
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps5e623180.jpg
it's here :D took it for a quick spin to check it was ok, seems to run nice and goes well on boost, feels a bit quicker than the B200 but it might take some time to start driving it normally as opposed to enjoying the feeling of that turbo coming in! anyway, last quick spin will be around to the yard where i'm doing the swap later i should think :) heres the car: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psd30dcb83.jpg bit scruffy in places: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psa5194c7c.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0ab29025.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf4959d85.jpg think this is where the main MOT issue was: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9fbad8a7.jpg bit of exhaust missing: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7df6189e.jpg hmm, spartan comes to mind, literally seems to be tsorlanda spec, doesn't even have heated mirrors: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps93178ab0.jpg M90 goodness http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse239ef7f.jpg comparisons time: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps410e931a.jpg methinks someone had a boost gauge! http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps730ddac2.jpg tinkering time began... it's going to be a right pita as the 940 wiring is quite different form the 740 i assume :| the issue is that although the main loom should be near identical, the washer bottle is on the opposite side of the car, meaning i'll need to use the loom for that from the 940, the battery cables are on opposite sides, so they'll need swapping over, and the engine loom is obviously completely different so i'll need to attach that, along with the glow plug and egr control wiring to my loom, however as the 940 has post face-lift front lights, i'll need to retain the original wiring for my lights. most of the engine bay looms plug into sockets at the bottoms of the a pillars i believe in both cars, so hopefully i'll be able to swap them over and then just sort the bits inside. progress this afternoon. stripped out the front end of the 940, coolant out, rad and intercooler off, lights out, wiring back as far as i can get it. next is to free the last two wires that go under the engine to the starter, and then that should be the engine free to be lowered out on the crossmember. i'm planning on swapping everything as simply as possible jut to get the D24 into my car as soon as possible, and then get it back to mine to finish the wiring properly on the drive, as the farmer who's barn i'm working in is waiting for a request to ship 300 tonnes of grain that's in the barn behind my cars! not much particularly interesting from this afternoon, just more and more wires becoming disconjoined form the car wires everywhere, and this is just the o/s loom! http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps968e8d62.jpg how it is now, all ready to come out apart from three jobs left i think http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps5f615b95.jpg then having come home i decided to have a look at the clocks and see if i could sort the rev counter out, side by side you think 940 and 740 clocks are similar just arranged different? http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf5223cd4.jpg you'd be wrong unfortunately they're completely different, to the point where the 940 revcounter is about 3mm diameter smaller than the hole in the 740, and that's before you even look at the electrics or the mounting difference between the rev counters: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9f4381d7.jpg suppose there's now two options, one, wire up so it hopefully runs the petrol rev counter accurately (cant see why it wouldn't) and look out for a set of preface-lift diesel clocks, or two, swap the dash over and use the 940 ones, or am i now being ridiculous? Richard |
WARNING: those opposed to volvo abuse of any kind my wish to avoid looking carefully at the backgrounds of some images in this thread.
motivation is high at the moment :) put in a 12 hour day working from 9 this morning (was at the yard at half 8 but the keys didn't arrive until later)! so, progress today, i'll let the pictures do the taking. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psba801593.jpg convenient having a manitou on hand :D we found another use for it, but the video didn't work. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps0e2cf1d4.jpg old and new http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps13748d9a.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6b8629f4.jpg so that's how we are now, all the necessary engine wiring has been separated from the 940, and is ready to be attached to the 740 loom. jobs for tomorrow are: - acquire new front and rear brake hoses, engine oil and coolant. a proper service with cam belt, oil filter, fuel filter and air filter will be performed soon, as soon as i have the monies as i'm predictably somewhat skint at the moment! - drain 740 fuel tank - remove diff, prop shaft and fuel tank from 940, along with at least one fuel line. - remove diff, prop shaft and fuel tank from 740, remove fuel pump and filter, - replace above with 940 parts - fit 940 washer bottle, battery tray and air-box to 740 - fit glow plug relay, EGR system and engine loom to 740, run wires through to left footwell - fit D24 to 740, connect gear linkage, struts, trailing arms, steering column, prop, lines (vacuum, fuel and clutch slave) and wires. - transfer ARB drop links to replace worn ones off 940 - transfer rack end to replace one i ground off 940 strut :P alternatively, transfer nearly new recon rack form 740 crossmember to 940 as 940 one leaking (will need doing soon if not tomorrow). - install rad and intercooler, connect - fill coolant - fit brake lines - bleed brakes and clutch - install battery - bleed fuel system and start (hotwire necessary connections), remove from yard and drive (500 yards) home to complete wiring ASAP. necessary wiring, actually a darn sight easier than expected: - one wire from fuse 13 to glow plug relay (ignition live) - one wire from existing starter signal to starter and glow plug relay - oil pressure signal to existing instrument cluster light - two wires for temperature signal to existing gauge - alternator charge signal to existing instrument cluster light - alternator RPM signal to existing rev counter (it's the wire on the spade connector on the back, should get it working, don't know if it'll be accurate or a factor out) - over-boost signal to instrument cluster light, in my cluster it will appear as choke light, but that can be changed by fitting a diesel warning lights screen - glow plugs signal to instrument cluster light, don't know where that will appear, but i'm going to wire it as per the green book so it'll be in the right place when i get the right screen. - make a little loom up from excess wires to connect +12V from the battery to the old battery location to link to the fuse box feed. seems easier than removing the old one and running a new feed. also this loom will have the 5 wires for the washer pumps and the washer level sensor. hmm, don't know when all this will be done, but i need to get it on wheels by the end of tomorrow as it's blocking the entrance to the barn and the farmer needs to get grain out sometime! that's all for now :) Richard |
Wow, you've already made a lot of progress! I used that same method to pull the drivetrains out of mine when I did the swap. Pretty efficient way of getting it done. :D
Nice looking color on your 740. Sounds like it should be a very nice setup once done. Yes the clusters are completely different from the beveled later type to the earlier rectangular units. Your best luck to get a tach and glow plug light that works in the rectangular cluster might be to get a junkyard cluster out of a diesel built before 1991 (or before 1988 if it is a 760 -- 760 got that later dash earlier than the rest of the series, the others didn't get it until '91). Could also use a Dakota Digital adapter box to make the gasser tach work -- I have used them before and they work well, but they're spendy (plus shipping from US), and then the redline is in the wrong place anyway. ;) I have a spare tach from the earlier style cluster I could sell you that would drop into yours, but the shipping cost might be killer and you can probably find a whole diesel cluster easily enough close to you anyway in a junkyard somewhere. That way you'll get the warning light strip with the GP light in it, too. Seems to me that would be the easiest option. I wouldn't want to think about swapping the whole later dash in -- IIRC the climate control setup is different on those later cars too, would be a lot of work to get a tach installed.... :eek: Be sure to hang onto those E-code headlight assemblies from the 940 -- those fetch good money if you want to sell them to someone in the US! Much better than the lights those came with on our side of the pond.... |
BTW, that 940 does look pretty basic. A 900 series with no A/C and wind-up windows is a strange thing to see! Heated seats, though, of course.... :cool:
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right, progress report...
today, this happened: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7eff0163.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9777639a.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbd38b9ea.jpg before this, i sorted all the wires for the engine. used the wires from the old engine loom as, with the exception of the glow plug and over-boost warnings, who's wires are used for something to do with the ignition ECU, they're all there and used for the same thing already so this means only two wires need changing behind the dash, and they already go to the drivers footwell. convenient :) then i realised i'd forgotten my soldering iron :| then i realised that the farmers dog had eaten my sandwiches :| then it started snowing so i didnt fancy going outside to drop the diff and fuel tank from the 940. instead the engine went in, the mounts all connected, gear linkage in and working, all engine wiring and plumbing is back in and connected, and the 940 washer bottle is in. i realised during this process that the gearbox crossmember is really very rotten, so a new one will need to be made or found in the near future. really isnt good at all! the brakes have been swapped back from the 740 crossmember, as has the rack. the remaining updated list is: - soldering - swap fuel tanks, lines, exhaust, diff and prop - replace all brake lines - tighten rack end ball joints - attach o/s trailing arm (was being a pain so i left it) - re wrap loom, particularly my +12 that runs across the front (can be seen in the pictures) and ensure it's all secure and not able to wear on anything. - sort wires for warning lights at clocks end - remove fuel pump and ignition ECU wiring. - bleed brakes and clutch - test all electrics - bleed injection system - START!!!!! also sold the 940 shell, and the V70 for £250 today so will have monies to buy some parts in the morning :) thanks again for the comments. it was the forklift through the windscreen to lift it over the engine that i was expecting anger for, but yeah, all worked well! it is a nice colour, and i really hope so! will look better with better alloys some day and shorter springs (i'm not sure what's available for the D24 cars though?), and all in one colour again would be nice! already looking for a 740/early 760 TD dash, but for now will have to just see what the petrol rev counter comes out with :P hoping to get boost and pyro gauges in the top corners if i can find some that i can make fit too :) yeah, i'll stick to looking in the UK, unfortunately these diesels aren't that common! thanks for the offer, also, thanks for the heads up about the 940 headlights! would probably have junked them not knowing that! of course it has heated seats :P literally nothing else though, doesn't even have heated mirrors! no A/C is quite common over here though. i do wonder whether it actually is a tsorlanda which has had the decals removed perhaps, it's certainA/C is quite common over here though. Richard |
940l
hi that donor car would be a 940L same as the Mreg keep fit windows and all not even got remote locking the only 940 i ever seen without it and it has to be the one i get . was that the one that was on the bay in Northampton a while back?
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right, seems i've been VERY lazy about updating this despite poking my head in to keep up with what's going on on here now and then :|
m-reg, nope, this car came from norfolk, but it was indeed a 940L, L presumable meaning Literally nothing? so, what's happened since my last update, going to shamelessly copy the posts from my thread on volvoforums as there are too many! may 24th Quote:
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may 27th Quote:
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Richard |
since then, more has happened:
fitted these Quote:
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disabled my immobiliser in order to fix the starting issue. seems like the alarm i have couldn't source enough current to trigger the GRP crank signal and the starter solenoid. realised that the noise i thought was the wheel bearing was a totally FUBARed gearbox mount. crossmember wasn't much better : Quote:
Richard |
[QUOTE]ok, well i removed the bodge :)
oks fine from here! looks fine from here! http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3ae58967.jpg maybe not so :P http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb2c9d35b.jpg old and new :) http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps30406107.jpg also patched the worst bits of the crossmember for now, and fitted the new mount, this is what went back in. me attempts at welding the crossmember up are not good, but the metal is very thin and rusty, so i'm not really surprised. it's a lot stronger than it was, and it wasnt showing any signs of this weakness causing problems, so i'm happy, but a new crossmember is still something i'm looking for sooner rather than later. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psdbea1663.jpg ready to go back in :) http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps51bb7918.jpg today something else happened. liberated the parts V70 of this... (that's the 940 one above and the one i planned to fit below) http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps12726d8b.jpg it didnt fit though, not really surprising considering it's from a transverse FWD and i'm trying to fit it to a longitudinal RWD. the rads are exactly the same size, but the bottom hose on the 940 rad fouls the cowl on the V70 fan unit. no problem :) http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps85362789.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps321ec479.jpg it fits, sort of! http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps537a66f0.jpg not enough space for a fan though :| http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf9f27ada.jpg then i had a brain wave :) que more hacking http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4396ebf9.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps66b72a4d.jpg this then goes in here to become this |
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pic i quite like http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9fcf8aab.jpg did some more painting, flatting and polishing on my roof where i had removed the roof rack (rusty holes). got it looking slightly more monotone and shiny although still not perfect. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb163c557.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7e394c16.jpg Quote:
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got them fitted:
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met up with some friends and ended up being able to take this when i got back, love this photo a lot at the moment!
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps78d432bc.jpg yep, set of hydras :D http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps4bf5148b.jpg in future i'll try to keep this site as well updated as the other one! hope you all like the updates, and yes, i'm loving D24TIC ownership :D Richard |
`New` HYDRA 16 rims
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Nice setup!
That`s what you did today? Got Hydras? They look great. Proof: I happened to do the same thing TODAY! Just curiosity: How much did you pay for the rims? |
hi,
not a recent thing, i collected them about two weeks ago now, they're sitting in my room at home as an ornament :P i really want to see how they look on the car, but they might wait until next spring actually - i think i'm going to refurbish them as they're not all mint (one is freshly refurbed, but with a bad spray job, two are good, and the last has some corrosion). they do look great on your car! out of interest, the size difference between them and your dracos is quite clear, are you running undersize tyres on the front/oversize on the rear? Richard |
Tire oversized or undersized
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Here I mention that driving feels much better, handling and stability improved a LOT! Less road-noise and much less `shaky ride` on small bumps where road surface is bad. All my tires on these Hydras are 205/55 R16, front and rear too. I don`t know if it means undersized or oversized but I guess it is oversized front&rear. I guess the car could take 225s without fitment issues, especially on rear. The Hydras are 6.5 wide and Dracos are only 6 so for 225s there might be a wider rim needed? Idk, I`m not an expert at rim&tire upgrades (expensive games those are! :)) Info for the 1986 760 Turbodiesel, by factory: Standard tire size: 185/65 HR 15 (This is what I have on the Draco rims btw.) For the 1986 Turbo (petrol) it is 195/60 HR 15. (My Hydras with 205/55r16 -s came off a 1990 740.) Also, Volvo 850 `s have those `swirl-type` rims (16) that fit on 7xx Volvos no problem (5*108 pattern). I think they look good on wagons. See the blue 760 to decide! Source: http://www.automobile-catalog.com/ti...bo_diesel.html |
i have to agree with everything you've said, and i can't wait to see mine on them either, but i'm going to force myself to! i have winter steelies anyway, so they'll be going on soon as i have a funny feeling we're going to have a very short autumn in England this year and go straight to winter very soon!
got to agree with the comment about the 'shape' of the wheel too, IMO hydras and the other one i can't remember the name of suit the shape of the early 700s best, while the galaxies and polaris look best on the later 900 series cars (that said i very nearly bought a set of galaxies this summer :P) FYI: 205/55/R16 is the correct standard size for R16 on a 700 series, with either 195/60/R15 on alloys or 185/65/R15 on steels being the standard on R15s (i think). mine had 185 15s on the steelies when i first got it, but currently sits on 195/60/R15 on the Omegas that it's on at the moment. to my knowledge this is the correct sizings, and my speedo reads correct up to about 90MPH so I don't doubt this. i'm sure you could get maybe a 225 width on a 16x6.5, but obviously you'd have to go down to maybe a 50 or a 45 profile to keep the rolling radius correct. in theory i don't think there would be any clearance issues with this either :) i do quite like the 850 t5 alloys (can't remember the name at the moment), and am thinking of trying to find a set for my mom's V70 maybe, but they would need spacers to correct the offset on a 700. still very chuffed with my finding these hydras though :D what's the colour on that 760, it's really lovely! Richard |
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I don`t know what type of blue it is called but here`s the plate. |
uk weather isn't really weather at all, just different types of grey.
as for the colour, apparently it's an 85-86 colour, light blue met, imaginative name! mines called riviera blue met, though strangely it wasn't on the site i looked that one up on, so maybe a colour that wasn't available in the US? Richard |
New wheels on
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my engine currently looks like this!
http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psbfff10c8.jpg anyone got any genius ideas as to how i do the crank pulley back up seeing as i used the starter motor to unto it? More later after i do some revision. Rich |
Wow, you have one of those late D24TIC EGR motors with the extra timing belt tensioner... Cool. Older ones used the water pump (mounted with slotted holes) to set the belt tension... the later ones like this should be easier.
Volvo special tool 9995187 is what is supposed to be used for crank pulley torquing. It grabs the lugs on the inside of the balancer and counterholds it while you reef on it with a cheater bar to get about 350# of torque on the bolt. Not too many other alternatives, if you want to actually torque it to the spec, you pretty much have to have the tool, or make a homemade copy (as some on here have done). Here in the US the tool is pretty much unobtainium unless you luck out at a Volvo indy shop or dealer that has it and is willing to let it go or can borrow it from a forum member here. May be easier to track one down in the UK since anyplace that does serious work on VW LT vans with this engine should also have one. You might contact 745 TurboGreasel for some dimensional info on the homebrew tools he made; if you are handy with a welder or know someone who is, that may be your easiest option. Original tool looks like this, also pictured is wrench extension 9995188 which makes the job easier but can be done without: http://www.k-jet.org/img/articles/di...tools/5187.JPG |
yeah, i knew about the tool, theres a guy in the UK making one which i was down to borrow, hence not having done the job already, but i will post a message in a mo which explains why i started on it today instead. i spoke to volvo uk about the tool, but apparently it's NLA and was about £130 when it was! i actually have the dealer tool for the other pulleys, as it's the same as the one for the D5252T in the V70, which volvo sold me instead of the crank pulley tool for that :P
think i'm just going to go with as tight as i can get it up to with the handbrake on in fifth, with someone on the brakes, and if that's not torque before the clutch slips then it'll have to do until i can borrow the right tool! cheers for the reply :) Richard |
i've finally made a start on changing my cam belt, must be something going on at the moment as since i started i've noticed that steve (doingitsideways) has also been talking about doing his!
i went out to do a service, started with dropping the oil, which was a task in itself, couldn't get the bloody sump plug off! really must replace that thing! anyway, oil eventually out, i then set about cleaning the crank case breather system and the EGR system, just cos i could, and while stripping these bits off ended up with this: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6610bceb.jpg broken EGR stud :| after some cursing i realised the car wasn't going to be running again today so i may as well do the water pump service that i needed to do anyway! box full of bits soaking in petrol: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9bdbf585.jpg front of engine stripped: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps2535bc76.jpg tomorrow i need to: acquire new crank pulley bolt acquire new EGR pipe studs acquire more oil! (only got 6 ltrs) have fan pulley machined for leccy fan to fit clean and paint cam shaft cover wire leccy fan drain coolant remove rad and intercooler remove water pump, cam belt idler and cam shaft sprocket remove inception pump belt cover and belt fit new water pump, cam belt idler and tensioner, cam belt refit crank shaft sprocket and cam shaft sprocket fit new injection pump belt and refit cover refit intercooler and radiator, with leccy fan refit EGR system with clean valve and new studs refit all intercooler piping refill coolant and oil time injection pump fit new gearbox crossmember that's finally been painted :D think that should keep me busy when i should be revising! think my list of problems with the car would then be down to just the GPR, the immobiliser that's not connected to immobilise anything, the new leather seats that i can't fit as i have no wiring for the leccy drivers seat and the brackets are all different for the rears in general, the trim that seems to rattle and creak from everywhere, the radio that won't tune in to FM but does still receive FM, and all the body work problems. probably more actually but that's all i can think of now, why do we keep old cars again??? Richard EDIT: scoob, yeah, i was thinking the same thing about how to tighten it, ouldnt think of any other way, just hope i can get it tight enough! |
9995187 tool
Quote:
"The number I have for Rotunda is one where, when I've called it, they have assumed right off that I was a legit shop and were ready to sell to me, no questions asked. It's the direct Volvo tools inside line within Rotunda, which I believe is used by Kent-Moore. OK, here's the one I have: 1-800-345-3399." Actually, no kidding, in searching for this info I found my own post from the D24 ML in 2009; from me: "I was successful in ordering the V9995199 ($39) and V9995201 ($58) tools from the number George posted (1-800-345-3399). They are the Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-Volvo tools retail division of SPX. They did not require me to be part of a service shop, only that I pay with a credit card if I did not already have a customer account." Again I'd need to check what I paid for 9995187 but all prices seemed reasonable. |
cheers for that jim, wish there was some way of me getting them in the UK, if only it was so easy though, apparently volvo can't get them!
ok, so i'm actually attaching new parts, and shiny clean ones, and painted ones even! cleaned up this mess: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps003f0961.jpg to this: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb558de43.jpg the bottom ally part is still not perfect but short of taking it off and soaking it in petrol i don't think it ever will be, and i don't know what's bhind it so i'm not doing that. new and old: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps786e3788.jpg pulley is a little smaller on the new one but it's the same in every other way and the impeller is metal which is good as most seem to be plastic these days like the last one was. the full set: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3ec8dbcd.jpg painted up the covers: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps530d9905.jpg and started reassembly: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps19604dcb.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psed9d66b9.jpg more when the photos upload Richard |
VW may still have those tools on your side?
I take my weight to determine how far out on the wrench handle I stand to torque that bolt. My SillyServiceTools; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=228915 http://www.cditorque.com/torque_fact...ch-graphic.jpg |
cheers for that reply, definitely makes sense. i think the same theory is used to make sure that wheel braces tighten wheel nuts to roughly the right torque isn't it?
right, so what happened on saturday morning? the day started with 'fire, to destroy all you've done...' (i posted this on VOC last night and i will make it clear on here that i have no knowledge of who that song is by and don't know any of the song other than that line, which is featured in the background in 'hot fuzz') http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps9646a897.jpg in my case it was to remove the evidence of me having sheared off an EGR pipe stud. having made surprisingly easy work of that i moved on to some cleaning: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps11fac0a4.jpg as you can see it was already starting to rain by the time i got this pipe clean enough to notice that damage. its not all that clear but something has cut pretty deep into now of my intercooler pipes! will have to find a replacement one sometime and i don't see any chance of the intercooler being upgraded any time soon so a standard replacement may have to be found. anyway, by now it was raining properly, so i took over the kitchen worktop (after protecting it from damage of course - definitely didn't have to be told to do that one and i've certainly never managed to drill a hole in it before which wouldn't have anything to do with why i'm forced to be so careful now - and i started working on a little modification that i've been planning for a while and thought i'd implement while all the parts were off already. a while back i faffed about with the fan from the V70 that i broke trying to make it fit my fan shroud and still clear the fan pulley on the D24. saturday i decided i'd make it fit while i had all the bits off, especially since my viscous coupling had seized solid. this was what i ended up with after a bit of cleaning (i decided that the fan shroud was wwayyy to dirty to be in my engine bay) http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3f56f7d7.jpg a few screws and some filing: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps03189179.jpg add a fan: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...pse28f9c95.jpg job done, it actually looks fairly decent surprisingly! missing in all my photos for some reason is the bracket off the V70 which will hold the relay and the thermostat which i stuck together as theres no fixing method on the thermostat. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps38d3df89.jpg there you go, one new electric fan shroud and complete wiring for it. total cost so far, one thermostat off ebay for less than a tenner including postage :) remaining issue, i don't think its actually far enough forward to clear the standard fan pulley, hence i'm removing the standard fan pulley all together and fitting a shorter belt to just go to the alternator alone. simples :) Richard |
Looks like the TIC does not have the blow open deals on the side of the shroud the older cars do.
for the IC hose, You could wrap it in the as seen on TV silicone 'emergancy repair tape'. I fabricated about 3 inches of my crank vent hose out of it after a chunk fell off(it was really hard n brittle), and it held for a year, and was still good when I found a fresher hose. A tire patch wold probably work fine too. |
So the old girl is living again, running smoother than ever, quieter and it's amazing how much more refined it is with no fan! Electric fan all fotted and wired too and works, set the thermostat to 80 degrees and it seems to come on when you give it a bit of a pasting, and then go off when you are gentle which seems about right to me at the moment, maybe I'll adjust a little if someone suggests I may be wrong.
No obvious leaks either and all sounds good �� PSF still leaking obviously as I haven't gone near it and still haven't fitted the bed gearbox crossmember either but exams need to come first at the moment. Interestingly the steering feels a lot lighter without the fan ok the front and I think I need to turn the idle down a tiny bit too! Richard |
Nicely done, looking good! Interesting to see that later style belt setup in detail. Surprising they made so many changes to the front of the motor just for a couple final years that they were building it. Wonder what the benefits were, other than making it a little easier to work on.
Good to hear it's running well. Did you find a good way to torque that crank center bolt? Don't want to risk running too long without that all the way tight -- would ruin your day if it slipped! |
I did the crank bolt with a three foot bar, thick wall steel pipe over that as an extension, and as toght as I could get it with the car in fifth, with someone standing on the brakes. It was tight enough that the car was starting to move so I hope it's right enough, but my torque wrench only goes to 200Nm so that wasn't much help!
Richard |
Good stuff RAW.
Your song is 'Fire' by The crazy world of Arthur Brown. |
hi all, update time!
CRB, I was informed of this over on the VOC forums when I posted the same post, though I personally only know it from where it appears in 'Hot Fuzz'. Does anyone have any thoughts on the setting of the electrical fan? After some more use I've been finding that actually the fan comes on fairly regularly when you stop the car, but is almost always off when moving forwards, and goes off after about a minute or so, so I think it's doing the job. Certainly the temperature gauge hasn't done anything unusual and the car hasn't seemed particularly hot or cold, the heater works quicker on a cold morning since the warm up time is reduced and the fuel economy is averaging 37MPG which is pretty respectable I think. I wound the idle back down and need to reset the pump timing and the cold start device, since I am a fool and adjusted the timing when it wouldn't run right after the belt job, before remembering that the cold start was still disconnected and that advances the timeing when cold - now the timing is too advanced. Been working on the car the last couple of days, trying to find the cause of a rumbling noise I've had - see the 700/900 section for a thread about it if anyone's interested - I think I may have today found the true cause for this! Lesson's I've learned/been reminded of today: If you point fire at something it usually gets hot Hot, burning underseal invariably falls on your hands Hot, burning underseal sticks to skin quite well Safety Specs, while good when using machine tools, are worse than useless under a car - I think about the only thing that would keep dust out of your eyes under there might be swimming goggles Red Oxide Primer is not a nice paint to use, but at least it dry's fast! Don't get Power Steering Fluid in your eyes Car need's to pay a visit to the LSUMC garage and I need to learn to use the welder :/ Richard |
So, what's been going on!
Well, I've been at uni and my car's been in service being used for getting to and from places by mom's fiancée and doing it without problem it would seem, although I came home on friday to find that the rumbling noise I had left was certainly getting louder - I know the state of our roads is bad, but I don't think road noise would get that much more noticeable so i figured I'd better have a look to work out what it could be! I went to jack the car up, and decided that the fact that the rivets are coming out of my cheapo old axle stands, that were only rated to 500kg each to begin with, told me they had done their time and that it was time for me to move on. A quick search on the internet showed me that £23 could have me a nice pair of 1000kg each solid welded ratchet type stands from the Halfrauds Advanced Professional Lifetime Guaranteed Range, so i gingerly drove to Rugby, since it was the nearest Halfords big enough to have some in stock. Got myself a trade card while I was there and ended up paying £19 for them I think, not a terrible deal really, though I'll get another pair and a new jack sometime, probably from SGS Engineering on t'internet. Back home and about that noise, now my first suspicion was the centre prop bearing, which I've changed before, but I have no idea why I thought that was what it was tbh, it was just my first guess given what the noise was. After a little inspection it seemed less likely, I could neither see nor feel anything wrong with the bearing apart from the fact that the dust cover things are still loose - clearly need to be less sparing with my epoxy resin! Next I thought the worst - remembering that my diff makes an odd clunk clunk kind of noise when the rear wheels are rotated (and half hoping I'd 'have' to change the rear axle and conveniently stumble upon a 3.31 ratio 1041), I guessed that the noise, which in fairness does kind of sound like the noise the axle makes but sped up, was something to do with my differential. I changed the diff oil in the hope that the condition of the oil would tell me something - it came out clean and smelling about as good as 75W90 Hypoid Gear Oil ever does :P This I was kind of glad of seeing as I only put it in there about 6000 miles ago! On test-driving afterwards, I believed that it seemed to have quietened down a little, but it's definitely still there and LOUD, and I may have been imagining the change tbh :P Back home research into diagnosing possible differential issues went on, and I decided it might be the carrier bearings in the axle, though it did seem a little odd to have a problem with a 1031, seeing as I always thought they were pretty bombproof? Rather than waste the last of the light though, I got the front up and set about changing my gearbox crossmember since i got a nice now one that I'd painted up so it looked nice and new, and the old was a little past it's best to say the least. Old on the right, new on the left: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps321a3ba7.jpg As above, not the missing bits where rust has attacked the old one, and how well the wax oil hides my welding :P http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps50198120.jpg Also note how despite me belief that the M90 crossmember was the same as the Auto crossmember and they were all the same, these aren't :| http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps61b5fc9e.jpg Thinking NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harmonics), I decided I'd better not fit it with no bushing's at all, so in the absence of whatever are meant to be used, I attacked the ones from the old crossmember with a knife, and made some little rubber washers to go between the crossmember and the car: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7d8cb816.jpg Then as I fitted this it went dark, so photo's from yesterday stop. So much for trying to take plenty :| This morning started late :P but when it did it started with deciding to rectify my long standing power steering leak (since I still haven't taken the car back for an engineer's report about the engine swap since I was given an MOT on account of the last words I heard from the tester having been, 'I'll give you a pass cos I know you'll go and fix that, NOW.') The offending fluid union (with drip proving that not all the fluid had leaked out :P): http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps3d179e27.jpg Some may notice that despite being disconnected from the rack, the bolt part of the union remains firmly in the other bit, whatever it's called. That would be down to the 'sealing' washers, that have embedded themselves in the thread of the bolt and decided it's not coming off. In the end i had to resort to one of my decent wood chisels (you know, the ones that are actually sharp and hence hidden from others who might use them inappropriately :P) in order to pry the thing free :| This shows the remains of the washers: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps29976689.jpg I now started on something else, that I shall come to later after finishing this part of the story so that things make sense. Suffice to say at this point, that I haven't been being the most logical or methodical person today! Couple of sealing washers and boshed the unions back on, topped up the system, bled and no leaks :D The liquid on everything is degreaser sprayed everywhere in an attempt to clear up some of the power steering fluid that has coated most of the offside of the car since this leak. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps26b5152e.jpg More in a moment :) Richard |
So, more did happen today than just fixing a power steering leak, I managed to get an awful lot of undersell in my hair and eyes, and poke a few holes in my floor as a reward :|
Now, I've known about this one hole for a while, so i decided to catch it and stop it going any further until i can deal with it properly sometime in the nicer weather. It turned out to be a little more than I expected tbh, but its not the end of the world I suppose: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps1593309c.jpg As is always the way when you decide to, 'just sort that little bit there,' I noticed this looked a bit crusty: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps97acf808.jpg And thought I'd just check this bit too... Oh, that'll be another hole then! http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps157157ba.jpg See what I meant when I said I wasn't being particularly methodical? http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps897f5a99.jpg Other side of the jacking point: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf7999d17.jpg At this point I had a cup of tea and decided I should be a little more logical. Clearly I need to go over the whole of the bottom of the car and check it over for rust, and deal with what I find, repaint and retreat and then the car should be good for another 24 years :) In that case, as I've started here, I may as well do this area I thought... Out came the burner - reminds me, need more butane - and a scraper, and I set too deundersealing (Insert Expletives Here) God knows how people strip the whole of the bottom of a car, this is without doubt below working on transverse engined cars in my list of automotive ways to spend a day :| I only got the one chassis rail done from it's end to the back of the wheel arch. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb7e7fc46.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps162a3e6e.jpg I was going to do the floor between the sill and the rail too, but the carpets were getting warm, and I couldn't be bothered to take them out today, so that's a job for next time! Notice the disappearing light in the background :| http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps15fcaa0d.jpg Finally I decided to call it a day for today, so I painted over it all with a couple of coats of rede oxide and called it a day. http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb78e9de5.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps6c1840fd.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psb256490f.jpg http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps35886806.jpg I will paint over it all with stone chip and chassis black and I'll be Waxoiling the chassis rails come summer when they dry out properly, but since I'm going to have to cut chunks out of the bottom of the car red oxide will suffice until the welding gets done. So far the bits that need fixing are, this: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps7e028e3b.jpg And this: http://i774.photobucket.com/albums/y...psf2112f5a.jpg Ok, this time that's it for now. I'm hoping to do the welding at the car club at uni, and learn to do it myself. If anyone has any ideas on what the best way to do this would be then hints would certainly be appreciated :) Richard |
Oh, Forgot to mention one big thing!
Car is off the road for the moment! While the front end was in the air, I noticed that the N/S/F wheel bearing is knackered, really badly, and very noisy :P Hopefully this is the source of my rumble, as it's under warranty from GSF still! By the time I next come home - weeks away now - Hopefully I'll have a new one and will also have received a known good Glow Plug Relay to test if that explains my Glow Plug issues Richard |
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