One of the advantages to the poly bushings is that they are not susceptible to damage from oil contamination. Pretty common for the PS pump to seep a little fluid over time which makes its way down to the rubber bushings and softens/degrades them.

You can rebuild the new bracket with fresh bushings (poly or rubber, whichever you choose) on the workbench then swap it on as GV said.

Thanks to all for your replies and help.

I got lucky and sourced a new-old-stock Volvo bracket from eBay ($95) and some OEM bushings. Then had a local Indie shop do the work.

The bracket had fractured just below the top two bolts (that go into the head) and above the third bolt. That third bolt had broken off at the threads; the top was missing and the threads were left.

The smaller bolt at the bottom of the bracket (the "ear") was found very loose -- backed off several turns. But the "ear" was not broken.

I'm not sure what to make of the broken/loose bolts.

Is the fractured bracket worth keeping for potential weld repair if needed at a future date?

I'll try to upload some pix.

Thanks again to all that replied.

-Tom in SoCal

If you can find a good aluminum welder, get it welded and keep it as a spare. Looks like a clean break and should be easy to keep it aligned while welding.

Loose/missing bolts? Maybe they were not torqued down sufficiently? These engines do vibrate profusely.I recently did troubleshoot an annoying rattle off idle that turned out to be more than a few missing/loose bolts for the A/C compressor and at its bracketry interconnections.

Looks like the bracket was torqued down without the spacers. If they are lost you could probably improvise some from the hardware store by stacking washers to get the correct height or pretty close.

Ooohh, that's right. I hadn't thought of the front engine lifting hook as a spacer but it does act as a spacer, doesn't it?

However, I had one that broke in that area even with the lifting hook/spacer in place.

The lifting hook bracket (or if the lifting hook bracket has been removed, spacers) is 4mm thick.

The lifting hook was in place.

The timing belt and water pump were replaced about 2000 miles ago by an indie Volvo shop. Other than that, Or a prior TB replacement many years ago, I don’t know why that bracket would have been off.

No matter, really. It is properly repaired now and I hope I won’t need to repair the broken one any time soon.

Thanks to all that replied.

-Tom in So Cal

The TB replacement might have disturbed it but it also might have just been coincidence. These brackets sometimes can break for no apparent reason. Sounds like all worked out well in the end.

Assume you were careful when choosing a shop to do the TB job but because you mentioned it was just done, I will ask: did you confirm that they owned and used the required special tools and procedure, in particular the locking tools for installing the front crankshaft bolt?

If they didn't then you will be dealing with problems soon that will make the PS bracket failure look like nothing.

Yes to all the TB replacement questions. The shop is an Indie Volvo specialist that was very conversant with the diesel issues. I did quiz him about the tools and he had the right answers.

Neat guy. Folks like him (extensive experience with D24) are a rare breed.

But thanks for the comments just the same.

Nice, good to hear. Always want to make sure, a fumbled timing belt attempt on these will take an otherwise good running car and turn it into dead weight despite (or even as a result of) an owner's best intentions. Clear it's in good hands, both yours and your mechanic's.

Glad it all worked out, sounds like with that major work out of the way you should be able to enjoy putting some miles on now.