Here I go again! I'm now modding my 745...
 

It's time to start a build thread on my 745td. What I have planned is a nice driving, comfortable, and peppy commuter. I'm shooting for around 160hp with no smoke throughout the power band. I'm also trying to see if I can increase my mileage from 30 to 32mpg in mixed driving. This should be a fast build, hoping to have it done by February.

Here is the start to my build. A d24t with matched set of rods, KS pistons 1mm oversize, clevite bearings.

Matching the rods..

New KS 1mm oversize pistons added to a matched set of rods....

All ring gaps checked and recorded, pistons now getting installed into block..

32mm pre chamber head that is crack free acquired! And it's straight as an arrow! Time to disassemble and port/ polish.

Gasket match and polishing done.. Off to the machine shop for a 3 angle seat grind and new guides..

Right on! Keep it up, including results!

745TD Build
 

I have read Tom Bryant's posts about matching rods. I wasn't sure how he did it, but your set up looks quite simple. And it looks like you have plenty of rods to choose from. Nice work.

Well the length of the rod is stamped on the cap something like "85" or "116" I'm not sure what that denotes but there's still variances between matched sets from the factory. I'm hoping the piston protrusion on the KS pistons will be all the same too.

I have read a lot of Tom Bryant's posts, that's where I found out about using the early 11mm cylinder heads because of the larger pre-chamber. This will be my first engine build with one of those early heads. Im hoping there's a difference in power like he states, I will also be using the NA cam.

Wow, yes those are a lot of rods! Are they the same as the VW 1.6 4-cylinder diesel engine?

Oh, and that's a very perty engine block you got there! :D

Looks awesome, sounds like it should run even better! What are you going to do for an intake and intercooler? For 160hp with no smoke you will probably need to feed it plenty of cool air... :)

The new AMC head that I got for the one I was putting together, I think, also has 32mm prechambers. From what I understand, only US spec D24T's got the smaller prechambers. I guess AMC just makes one type and probably sells more heads in Europe, hence using the big chambers. I don't notice any major power difference in the stock motor I used the AMC head on, but I bet the difference is more evident when you are running additional boost and fuel.

Looks like a sweet rod length measurement setup. Next time I have one apart, I'm going to have you match a set for me... you should offer a rod exchange service for anyone wanting to put a motor together!

Yes I believe the 1.6 rods are the same throughout the family of diesels, 1.6, 2.0 and the 2.4.

I will be using one of my modified NA intakes on this motor and a large intercooler, hopefully as big as the one in my 244.

I'm more than happy to measure and match rods for any members here..

A well illustrated precision build. Do you do your own IP modifications? Is this the one with the ZF transmission? Thanks for posting the fleet. Nice alloys.

Grtting excited for my new parts!

I do "tune" my own injection pumps, very simple to do really. This engine is going into the wagon with the ZF, the engine build with the mods coupled with the auto it should move off the line pretty well.

Head is back from the machinist! I installed all new valves ( high quality old stock TRW) Piston protrusion measured and recorded.

Piston protrusion is about where I expected it to be far as matching goes, It's all within the accuracy of the dial caliper I used +/- .001".

Well today I installed a 23mm front sway bar and 19mm rear sway bar. I was amazed to see it didn't have a rear at all from the factory.

Ya, the 745 didn't get the rear sway bar, not clear on the reasoning behind that.

My 745 has 21mm front, the 744 has 19mm front.

Where did you get the 23mm front sway bar? I want to upgrade the front on my 745, seems like the next thing to do after adding the rear sway bar and front crossmember/control arm braces*.

*Highly recommended.

The 23mm front came factory on the 940se models. I picked mine at my local wrecker for $15 with bushings and mounts. The larger front and the addition of the rear made a great difference in cornering.

crossmember
 

I know :):rolleyes:

Looks fantastic so far. What are you using for a water pump? I found that a Hepu P528 pump (for a Canadian 2.4L VW Eurovan 5-cyl diesel) is a great option for the D24/D24T. The pump housing and impeller are exactly the same, the only difference is that the drive sprocket has 30 teeth rather than 32. This means the pump spins a little bit faster for more coolant flow, and there is still enough adjustment range in the mounting slots to tension the timing belt even with the slightly smaller sprocket.

The other great thing is that they are a high quality Hepu pump and are easy to get, whereas the 32-tooth D24 pump is getting more and more difficult to find in high quality versions. Still not cheap, $65 for the last one I got, but at least you know what you are getting. Lately it has become pretty unpredictable what will be in the box for a D24 pump, even for brands that used to be reliable...

Thanks for the comment.
That's good to know about those hepu pumps, who is the supplier for those pumps? I have a few of the good quality bosch pumps left, so that's what I used. I would like to find a rebuilder for the old pumps, I sure do have a pile of those....

They are like an infestation, I don't think I've got a failed one yet.

A failed water pump??? I've got at least 5 I could send you, maybe more... Several with noisy bearings and at least two that leaked. They're not everlasting, though they do seem to last 200k+ a lot of the time. The worst one I saw was on member ngoma's 744 -- it leaked so bad we were sure it must have been the O-ring, which was kinda flat, so when we changed the t-belt we replaced the O-ring and put the pump back in, the bearing felt fine. Water started pouring out as soon as we began filling the radiator... had to take it back apart and put a pump in.

It would be cool to find a rebuilder for the original pumps since I am sure that a lot of us have a small collection of used ones sitting around. I don't know if it might end up costing more to have it done than it costs to just get a new one, though. The Hepu pumps are supplied by Worldpac and IMC at least, probably other wholesalers too, any reseller of their lines should be able to get it. Now and then you can still find a good-quality new D24 pump, I have a couple NOS Graf pumps still in the box, but knowing now that this works I think I would actually prefer to use the Hepu 5cyl pump -- I think the smaller sprocket and higher pump RPM is probably an advantage for cooling under a few different conditions.

Anders, how is the motor coming? Dan and I did the D24T swap in his 244 this weekend, runs great and you were right, it dropped right in on fresh motor mounts, no clearance problems and the 740 downpipe even fits perfectly, almost like somebody meant for it to go in there. ;) We did not have to shim the mount. It's on the road and will be at the February meet...

It's coming along slowly. I will need to updates thread with some pictures.
Glad to here there's another 240 turbo diesel! I thought that was pretty cool that the d24t down pipe worked when I put mine together, just like it was meant to. What did you guys end up doing for the turbo drain?

Got a few things done last night to the engine, got the freeze plugs installed, the cleaned up manifold installed, and timing belt. Getting there.

Hey Anders, any updates on this? Looks like it's getting close... gonna have it running in time for XXX? :D

Anders!! that engine looks amazing. I bet that thing will run like a swiss watch. I hope you are able to get it ready in time for the meet. I am sure you already know this but remember to pay attention to detail during the last steps as that is when most mistakes or items are overlooked.

I'm hoping so, I have all the parts needed to finish it up. Now I need to clean the shop and find the time to install it...

Thanks for the comment. Yep the last few steps are where most get impatient and want to get it done because it's so close... but that's where it takes most of the time. All those dang little things!

Wagon is in the shop, it's getting ready for the transplant since it decided to put some oil in the coolant.
Engine is coming together, should be fully assembled tonight, but ran into some problems with a valve that could not get adjusted correctly. I think the seat was cut too deep or the stem is too long. So I had to install another head. I guess I won't be running the 32mm head quite yet, I will need to disassemble it again... then either put in a new seat or cut the stem. Yay!

I'm hoping to have it finished this Friday, it might be finding a new home to a member here, either way its getting put together like I'm keeping it for myself if the sale falls through..

Rebuilt engine ready to be installed.

Old engine coming out..

Rebuilt engine going in..

Looks great!

What are you running for a turbo -- stock or something else?

Looking forward to hopefully seeing it in person, a few weekends from now... have to put a rad and other stuff in my 744 this weekend to get it ready.

One slight setback.. And a big mess under the car, but got it together and drove it! It has some low end grunt.

Nice rebuild, what caused that cracked part?

How much $ do you think you have in the rebuild?

I think the problem with oil filter mount was caused by the complete engine sitting on the ground leaning on the oil filter, I pulled this broken one from a parts motor that's been tossed around for 6 years or so.
All I can say is those oil pumps sure can push some volume!

I have about $2600 into the rebuild, that includes all machine work, parts, gaskets, arp studs, injectors and glow plugs. That does not include the hours that I put into assembling it.