Black disc at front of intake manifold, 13-14 PSI force it open, push button.
WG starts open ~2500 RPM full open is hard to say, probably only overrev condition.
YOu will be so far out of the efficiency rangs,, you wont gain much but EGT. Try a ball and spring controller AKA G-valve.

Actually, there is nothing on the front of the intake manifold. It is a TIC car, not just T...anyways, I traced an air-line from intake manifold to a sensor on the left (from the inside) quarter-panel, near the ABS-module...from there boost goes to the pump's LDA, unless overboost detected - that's when it cuts the fuel off, etc...


Anyway, got that sorted out for now. In the meantime, I blew the M46 (it was really past repair when I got it, and it took 2 years to kill it completely) so I put on an M47 that I had lying around...


Does anyone know how could I calibrate the tacho? It was dead, so I replacet the circuitboard, but now it's showing idle around 1100rpm, I can hear "spool" that was previously when the old tacho worked, around 2500rpm, and now it's showing 4000prm and the needle goes out of scale at full throttle, and AFAIK, it can not rev over 5000 with the stock governor that is in the pump, which is the case.

I've found the variable resistor screw used for fine-tuning the tacho, but I just can not set it "by ear"...maybe someone knows to what resistance should it be set on a diesel?

Nevermind, managed to set the tacho right.

Now still have only? one problem with electrics:
When the headlights are off, "bulb failure" light goes on when I press the brake pedal. As soon as I let go, It goes out. With the headlights on, this doesn't happen, though when I turn the lights on or off, at that moment (while I move the switch), the "bulb failure" lamp goes on for a part of a second...

Also, the dash light bulb, the one that iluminates temperature gauge and half of the tacho goes on and off at random...

Another thing: switch illumination (foglifghts, sunroof, etc) were flickering untill they died...

Grounding problem? Where to look?

For the bulb failure warning light look here:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...eWarningSensor

Ground location for the 740 interior is RH side bulkhead, just front of the front door, behind the plastic kickplate. Not sure if it is the same as your 965.

Swap your brake light bulbs around until the light doesn't come on.
It sometimes does detect impending failure though.

745TG,
I tried to swap light bulbs but it didn't solve anything...I even replaced entire tail-light units for mint ones, but still the same.

Also, illumination flickering is persistant...might be that interior ground, will look into it, ngoma. Thank you both.


Another thing came up...5'th injector feed line (the one from the IP to injector, solid line) cracked on the bend just underneath IC hose... Not cracked all the way, but pressurized fuel escapes there, which is serious problem.

Anyone tried to hartlot that? Or make a custom feed line? Not confident about finding used one here...

I have heard of both Solder and TIG working.
If you do make you own line, it needs to have the same length and inside diameter.

In the end, I've managed to get someone to solder it and it has been fine since.

Mostly everything else isn't, though...it seems that blocked thermostat some time ago and related overheating did weaken the HG, hence it cranks a bit longer now, especially half-warmed and tends to overheat when under boost for extended periods...also doen't like to go past certain speed/rpm: few weeks ago it went 120-ish mph for a while and the temp-gauge just went to red in an instant (while deccelerating with gear disengaged), stopped, it threw boiling coolant; I let it cool a bit with fresh coolant circulating (have few liters spare always in the trunk, just in case), and seems fine now, though I see an immineng HG change in near future, but just can't bring myself to do it some time soon, I guess I'm waiting for it to fail completely...

By the way, strange thing - few seconds before the temp-needle shoots to red, the red "TURBO" warning light comes on. Why? Since it is overboosted quite a bit, I have disconnected the line that used to go from plenum to that sensor on the left fenderwell, next to the glow-plug relay; hence warning light should never come on...or so I thought.

Anyone have the idea why?

HG blew all the way. Car is currently barely drivable, so it's at the bottom of my backyard together with 940's and will stay there for some time, as I bought a 964 16v factory turbo car to drive around and overboost until I sort my mind on what to do with this car.

Would like to keep it diesel, but I guess 200hp/400ish torque is max for D24's, Merc diesels (OM606) are great but it would be a treason in a way... Whiteblocks (T4/5/6) are in my book "glass blocks" and just not cool, red-block is only 4 cylinder and I have it in my other 900's so I'm running out of the options...

A John Lane style PRV, perhaps?

Suggestions appreciated.

What do you want to do with the car? I still drive a D24T powered volvo because it's cheap to run, It's unusual, and its simple... If I was going to swap anything else into a RWD brick it would be any of the GEN 3 Chevrolet small blocks. With power ratings from 265-410 hp in factory trim. Mileage would be the same if not better then a turbo redblock.