Resurrection of the 81
 

This Thread is dedicated to the revival (hopefully) of the non-runner, rusty&corroded D24 I recently found.

It will take a long time, there`s a lot to check& do...

It`s definitely not a pretty beauty :) but that is exactly what makes it much more interesting: being more of a challenge...

I`m planning to share the projects (issues) and organizing my questions (and pictures) here.

(The three-speed tranny and the shell went to the junkyard.)

some of my first shots of the green block
 

Very rough condition... I`m thinking now, most likely it won`t be a runner ever again. So far, a visual Inspection only; but already seeing Multiple problems to solve (if possible at all).
:(
...to be continued tomorrow..

What was it out of? I notice the right side of the oil pan is very shallow compared to a D24 from a volvo. If you cannot salvage the engine as a whole, you may have a lot of decent parts still. I figure internal inspections would be the most tell tale... once you pull the head and the pan, you should know right away if it is savable. The outside only says so much.

Spenser

Investigating the d24:)
 

Spencer; An accident-victim 1981 Volvo car is the sad donor. I am slowly collecting information about its shady history. As those `secrets` resurface, my project gets interesting for real.
About the oil pan, idk, will have to compare them but I think it is the factory setup (i have pictures taken from bizarre angles).


And finally; yes, many good parts are still present!
It wasn`t me who trashed the rest of the vehicle (i would have kept more of the crutial things {if they were still usable..?...} ) :(


Absolutely true about that. I spent some time with the initial cleaning of the motor and got disappointed by the end so I decided to postpone the thing ( f.ck, i saw way too much carnage already...such a shame)
The engine turns over btw. I can`t wait for the freaking weekend for further inspection, maybe a possible tear down of the accessories and possibly the head with the pan. Till then it`s soaking in wd40 all over.
Multiple spots indicate that terrible awfulness, long-term neglection then unskilled tinkering have been going on.
I have now the strange feeling that after seeing the head I will close the book.

What do you guys use as the best engine stand for these engines? the ones i have are pieces of crap. Thanks for reading. Wish me `luck`.

I used this one: http://m.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-c...and-69520.html

Never had any issues with it. I had to pick up longer bolts and two nuts, but no big deal. I mounted mine by the starter bolt holes and two other bell housing bolts on the opposite side.

I looked at the same stand. Cool,thx. I attached picts of the pan...

Pretty sure that's a regular 240 pan. Dipstick goes in the pan as the block is missing the hole.

4 wheels is preferable to 3
I think I've had 2 of the harbor freight ones that lost a rear wheel
I have a couple, and my fave has a little bigger wheels, and can roll over a pea on the floor. It doesn't seem to really have any labeling though.

For some reason the angles looked odd to me.. Are the 240 and 760 pans angled different? Or maybe D24 to D24T are angled different? Or maybe it's just an illusion/ my memory failing. :rolleyes:

In a 240, the D24 leans a lot. Bellhousings and pans are not the same.

This explains it. I used to have a 240 several years back, but now have the 760. I didn't realize they had different pans.

Thanks for helping me keep my sanity!

So how goes the internal D24 inspection? I'm curious to see what shape the head is in.

Spenser

84
 

I dont think it is an 81 d24. Or at least not the head. The stamp says 84. I dont know how to properly read all those markings (all over the engine) but it does show `84`.

81
 

Some confusion here as oil pan shows 1981. (?) Time to talk to previous owners for history.

I have 4 questions for the experienced. :`)

1,
Is it highly suggested to use an original VOLVO gasket?? No issues with aftermarket?

2,
What is the torque specifications on the oil pan bolts? Looks like I can`t find it in the `83 d24 manual.

3,
www.volvooemparts.com (North Point Volvo) lists the oil pan gasket as #1257662 for 1984 d24 240.
Did earlier d24 diesels (`80) use the same? And how about the d24t engines?

4,
The oil dipstick tube needs a new o-ring. Looks like there is room for two... Why. What is the original setup?? Suggested to use a (high-heat) sealant/glue also? Which one?

Thanks.

1. I used Victor reinz last time, no leaks that I've noticed. It's just a flat mating surface, so just make sure its clean and dry, I used a little RTV too.

2. I couldn't find the specs either, but just made them snug and made sure they were all decently tight by going around and across multiple times.

3. Don't know the answer for that one.

4. I'm not sure why its so wide, but I put a new o ring on it and took up the extra space with a little gob of RTV on each side of the o ring. I used the black permatex... It's supposed to be oil resistant and I have had good results. I doubt that area gets that hot. Maybe 225 F at most. It's away from all the exhaust stuff and on the outside of the block. Just my opinion... I haven't taken an IR gun to it or anything haha

Spenser

Oil pan related
 

By black Permatex did you mean Permatex `Black Silicone`?
About torque;I will do the same as you, unless someone finds torque info somewhere.(rare Volvo workshop manual pages??idk)
About o-ring(s); I bought a kit and will use 2 Vitons plus the sealant. Thx for the reply.

Sounds like you're making some progress! :D

No worries about using an aftermarket gasket for the pan, they are just a simple flat paper gasket. The Elwis and Reinz gaskets I've used before always come as a 2-piece gasket with edges that fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. I use a bit of sealant on both sides around where the two halves meet to ensure sealing there, and also at the joints where the front cover/oil pump housing meets the block and at the rear where the rear main seal carrier bolts on... my favorite is TDI oil pan sealant (gray Reinzosil) but likely anything you have will do just fine. Bolts just need to be tight enough all around to squeeze the gasket and not too tight so as to pinch it, and be uniform... the "calibrated wrist" method works fine. ;)

Pan gasket is the same for D24 and D24T and I don't think the early motors have any difference vs the late, though a call to the Volvo dealer would no doubt clear that up if there's any doubt.

I think I've found some square section O-rings on some dipstick tubes when I've taken them out so that may be what was originally used there. Anything that will fit and seal up is fine of course. Think I used a couple last time I had one out, and maybe a little bit of sealer too.

What are your eventual plans for this beast?

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...t-maker-detail

Spenser

Old stuff
 

That progress is SuperSlow, thanks to a trillion factors at home, PLUS this engine keeps surprising me with newer and newer issues to solve. A true disaster it looked, inside and outside. Probably spent yrs uncovered, or, in parts, or both. idk. I`m multitasking, going through several crucial details but it was the fun fixes only, for now, then will concentrate on others. Getting it safely started as a first step... before making any plans for it. I`m a d24 student lol, and it`s a true project for real. Tricks, tests, observations and the tipical stop-and-go parts-hunting. Also the tools.
Badly, it needs serious cleanups inside and outside. Good news is that All is documented (picts) so one day in future it all jumps into this thread.

I would love something unique when/if it runs ok. Being realistic, it won`t happen any time soon. But i had to get something to wrench on !!! because my wagon is built sooo professionally and runs sooo reliably that I`m not touching things that are not broken. This crappiness `81 is a great risk-free challenge and a lifetime lesson/experience :))))
This pict motivates me. Great to see a clean running engine on a fun rustcar, isn`t it? Im eyeballing a similar rust-body at the warehouse... And a WW2 Jeep. I must stfu from now on, till I measured compr. :O)))

Update
 

Twenty-six months have passed... so it is time to update this old thread on the old 1981 d24!
Soon after dealing with this "experimental project", I met the owner of a nice blue Volvo 1984 240 sedan who had enough of trying to start up the d24 "powerplant" lmao so he made very different plans for his brick and kicked the diesel out of it to make space for the 302 motor... so I bought the "unknown condition" d24 that they never managed to start up, unseen.
The resurrection of the 81 immediately seized but that time I didnt know it will take over 2yrs to write about it.

Well, revival of the unknown 1984 d24 that tricked so many owners by refusing to start up, seemed more interesting. Soon, a busy day of clean-ups, check-ups, fresh fluids, creating a minimalist style "engine harness", checking belts, crank and valves etc, flushing and retiming the pump and cleaning injectors, adding a low pressure pump for bleeding, it fired up and ran good.

In the following months then I took them both apart, all accessories came off, I cleaned, painted, refurbed and replaced parts of both engines only to learn "the d24 stuff" and to exercise main projects.

Reading the D24 Greenbook and spending long nights on this forum, reading a lot of good stuff from you guys,
I had a really good time.

I'm planning to finally remove the head of the 1981 this weekend. The edge of injector hole is broken off/ chipped off very badly. Cyl #6. Injector wont thread in since half or more is missing. Someone mistreated this motor or just hD bad luck while fixing. Or tinkering.

I wondered,
Theoretically, can a d24 start up and run with one injector not there? CrZy question.

The head needs to come off anyway but I was wondering. And I attempted to start it up. Everything was set to factory specs, good injectors, flushed and timed injection pump, all new belts and gaskets, new bosch glowplugs, valve adjustment, good cranking power and speed etc.. I had a feeling it would start.

These engines are kept for learning and exercising "the d24 stuff" ..."disassembly-assembly-then redo" type of fun, also great to learn confident&proper usage of the rare diesel-specific Volvo tools.

Pictures later.

Here's a trick I learned after breaking a head bolt while trying to remove it:
Before attempting to unscrew them, give them a good direct hit with a heavy hammer and a good punch that fits into the bolt head recess without interfering with the "teeth." To help break up the bond that may be holding the threads to the block. Also, for the stubborn ones, try working the bolt back and forth in small amounts, like when tapping threads. Trust me, you don't want to break one of those bolts!


That can happen when you're not careful about orienting the ratchet handle when removing or installing the injectors. Orient the handle so you apply force in the direction towards the engine, not pulling away from it.

Didn't GM do something similar with the Northstar engine where it could cut out cylinders at certain times?

Punch
 

Thanks for that advice. Yes, im expecting it to be that hard.
And here's the chipped piece. I had it in the partsbox that came with the 1981 d24. Pretty sad. Injector stays loose in there.
Best fix??
And the injector itself, too ( i think i remember one of six), was cracked all across.

(Maybe not even worth repairing...well...the head needs to come off first and I'll take a look at it)

Before disassembly (d24 nonturbo - 1981)
 

I'd like to show it bc this green is one of my favourite colours on the d24 engines. It is called John Deere farm equipment enamel.
Pict #5 ---
Disassembly started and 55minutes later all accessories were off including the cylinder head.

Removal of d24 cylinder head
 

Unfortunately the forum's system could not process high quality high resolution pictures so I had to screenshot the pictures and upload the lower quality ones instead. Too bad. Is there a fix for that??

Anyways...the motor doesnt look good. The head looks toast. And it is chipped at injector #6.
I'll just go ahead and take a couple of measurements to confirm but I assume it is warped beyond specifications.
Interestingly, I don't see the typical cracks though.
To be continued...

Pictures and facts.
 

I could not find the straight edge to measure cylinder head warpage but the Volvo tool with the dial gauge gave me a good idea about it.
Let's see how the gasket looked.
Ngoma, i tried removing 2 of the headbolts without the suggested punch and yes it seemed much harder that way. Thanks. Good tactics info for the future...On this engine it doesnt matter though...
The gasket is a GOETZE headgasket. That rubber triangle area looked bad and you can see lots of rust at the headbolts (i think they are the result of the punch on the headbolts.

Also, one of the headbolts on cylinder #1 (front of engine) was LOOSE. I think the front of the engine is where the head will be warped the most.
The camshaft has rust and is pitted and scarred like there was water in oil, or like there was thick "sandy" oil used lmao.
Plenty of the valve shims were deeply pitted and chipped a little. I recall doing the valves adjustment appr 2y ago where all* clearances were tight and out of specifications, intake and exhaust included. Also a waterpump with the wrong-quality impeller.

More than one of engine oil passages of the head had 50% of the inner diameter clogged up.

Surface rust existed inside the engine too.
Camshaft bearing surfaces have wear marks too.
A couple of cylinder walls have vertical marks too, :( ,
Surface rust PLUS there are signs of valve collision with the pistons at more than one cylinder.

At cyl one, I have to check if threads in the block still exist at all.
Also, the cyl head has broken-in bolts at ps pump bracket and there is one where the balancer connects to the engine.
The inj pump pulley has a chipped area too like someone was having it beaten up. Lol.
The front tb area is very rusted too, including the waterpump and thermostat areas where the coolant runs.
I remember doing the belts on it and getting freaked howmuch internal rust it had.

Well, that is exactly why it became the "experimental engine" to learn "the d24 stuff" on.
Many days spent thinking and doing and a lot learnt.

Now I'd say it continues staying the engine for "d24 exercise"
The parts that it donated will make a good deal for my other d24 that also has issues although much less and it does run. But I assume it needs a head gasket. I saw bubbles form in the expansion tank when i ran it for like 45minutes the last time. (1984 engine, nonturbo)

So here's a few pictures.
I hope they serve the volvo diesel community. And also wondering how (if) a chipped injector hole gets fixed. (For those who happen to end up unfortunate on their great condition engine)

More pictures to show condition.
 

This d24 must have had a really bad life...or a good one but without happy ending.

Pictures of gasket and other parts.
 

The parts will be used on the other d24 or engine stays put as one for exercise of d24 diasassembly-assembly. Lol
Learning things before you touch a runner...:)

Cylinder head pictures
 

The video shows the head only and it is extremely boring.
https://youtu.be/wBrzH4jNCTc

Pictures show the proper injector tool (new purchase).

Using regular 27mm deep socket I managed to bend the nipples of my 740td's new injectors and 4of them leak now but that is another long story...
Use the right tools and the job gets done faster better safer :)
I think the regular 27mm sockets dont fit well between the tight space of the injector and the cyl head itself. Because the wall thickness of those sockets is way too thick. Especially the older 6point versions. I think that is how PO chipped the cylinder head.

I also think that this engine spent years maybe decades not running. Now it is becoming a parts donor or maybe stays whole...for experiments and to exercise repairs/maintenance...better than getting junked

Worn d24 for experiments and exercises like this one.
 

:)
Playing around while I'm waiting for the valve spring compressor tool.

I'll precisely measure warpage afterwards.
By using the Volvo tool I'm looking at roughly 0.2-0.3mm across and 0.3-0.5mm (or 0.6?) lengthwise but it can actually show much worse once measured more accurately.

I have this head with a Volvo enthusiast in Virginia and he said he will look into what he might be able to do to have the cylinder head damage repaired.
I think he is a really great welder, so he might be able to build up material for the area. I have no idea how/if it will go well and function well.
I`m not familiar with the process so I have no idea what he is planning to do to recreate the injector inlet including the needed threads.

Добрый день. На этих головках постоянно откалываются резбовые куски. На токарном станке изготавливается балванка форсунки и после нагрева места сварки наплавляется в среде аргона.
И нарезается резьба.
Фото вставить трудно.