Head gasket & over heating
 

When I disassembled my engine after over heating and blowing the head gasket, I noticed how restrictive the gasket was. I am experimenting with opening up the one hole/notch MLS gasket to flow more coolant.
In addition to making the existing holes the same size as the head and block, I added the small holes between the bores on the top side. In the stock gasket these are closed, as in the first photo.

Here is what i did:

1. Scan - To capture the imprint of the head and the block on the old gasket, I scanned both sides of it. I could not scan the entire thing in one go, so I had to stitch a few scans together as you can see below.
   
2. Trace - Using Illustrator I traced the coolant orifices on each side.
   http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psda34fe6d.png
   
   Skip ahead here to how this drawing actually came out.
   http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ff57123.jpg
   
3. Port - Red is top, yellow is the bottom and blue is my own averaging of the two. My idea here is that I don't want a cavity between the surfaces, but a step.
   
4. Cut - I used a local waterjet shop to do the cutting. They practiced on my old MLS gasket and it delaminated a bit. Notice the top and bottom below, perfect on the top, .002" lip on the bottom the I filed off.
   
   
   http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psf727afbc.jpg
   
   http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psf71a71c9.jpg
   
5. Chamfer - The water jet cutting sucked a little of the gasket coating off the front and left a small lip protruding underneath. I used a small file to smooth them out.
   

Comparison - Here are photos of an unadulterated gasket under the modified one. You can see there is a huge difference. This modification has opened up the head gasket so that it adds no restriction and has the same opening as the head and block.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psa84df6f8.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...ps175857bb.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psb409799c.jpg

I estimate that I have almost quadrupled the orifice area from a stock gasket.

Check out the stock one:

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...ps80a701c6.jpg

And afterward:

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psff5be171.jpg

This HAS to help with the heat. I'll keep you all updated.

One of the gaskets I got didn't even have the little steam holes on both sides.

Also, I think your investment in studs just paid itself off.

Some pictures on the head.

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psfxfpuxl7.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pskjchgp9j.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6vn11w2a.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pswxvymv8i.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pssbaoiji7.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...pszu104shd.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psga2jz6ll.jpg

Glow plugs stay on
 

Hey all,

I just got everything back together and was able to turn the power on.

When I apply power the glow plugs stay on. The relays kick on and off with the key. I have only let it stay on for about 10-11 seconds a time, with plenty of time in between.

Any thoughts on why the glow plugs wouldn't shut off. I seached here and didn't find anything.

Cheers,
h.

I'd expect them to run about 30 sec if you have snow around(or if the sensor came unplugged).
Other than that, the relay could be sticking, unmount it and tap it against something, if that fails, knife around the edge and pry the lid off.

That surface looks a little rough for an MLS gasket to me.

^this.

Little rough looking for an mls. Cut super smooth almost not at all with these on a really large fly cutter (no small diameter ones or you get a valley) and then final polish on a granite flat table wet gets them actual flat and smooth as a sheet of glass.

I've had a couple or these have a warped block.

The only guys I've seen complain about mls gaskets (besides subaru guys with the stock ones) have been guys with straight 6 engines. (supra, BMW, and these, mostly, actually). Most of the time, from ones ive sorted out for a couple people, the issue isn't so much the gasket design as torquing many times in small increments, cleanliness, and flatness and roughness of surface. Looking at that gasket compared to a factory one though, the fire rig looks a little different Aldine the Pre chamber. I would think the sealing ring would need to go "around" he Pre-chamber, and some fire/heat proof material would rest under he Pre chamber under light compression to hold it in place, which the Oe gasket looks to do, or am i losing it?

The mls is also unforgiving about torque. I find, even wih the SOHC red Volvo motor with the stretch/angle tighten bolts that you have to loosen and repeat and repeat torque the bolts in very small increments several times. The gasket is super hard and the head squishes down on it. I've tightened a couple excellent condition totally straight flat heads and had the center bolts be almost loose again after the outers were tightened.

What do people do for torquing procedure for the studs more generally speaking? Stock torque procedure? Same thread pitch? Nuts and spring washers (like TE thick ones on the Volvo turbo exhaust manifold) used? Inquiring minds want to know.

I've had to repair a couple '80 diesels with the 11mm bolts and had to buy two sets of expensive, obscure sized quality studs. What a PITA...

A good stud kit, gradual torque procedure, a little sealant and perfectly clean flat surfaces would probably put the HG issue to bed...provided you adjust valves and dont overheat it...

Do the heads on these crack without an overheat? Ive always wanted to know. I've seen them crack and repaired them, but never owned one since new and watched the temp gauge like a hawk either.

I plan to build a tic motor for mine and will tow with it a lot, so it will not be boosted to the sky but I want it to last and don't want it to leave me stranded. Good usable torque/no fuss. Wish they made a bellhousing for the 4 speed auto and 260 slanted motor, don't want to do any custom work for the sump/accessories/engine mounts, prefer the auto.

Hi

Is the Engine running with this Gasket ?
I do the Gasket of a Friends D24T, and i also thought, that this "mini-holes" are to small.

Now i must do mine, and I´m Planning to edit the Head Gasket too.

But i will cut it with a CNC Laser. :D
Greetings

Sonny, yes! I just got it running this weekend:
https://youtu.be/W86Q2VkQly8?list=UU...aEe8qCmn4bVI8g

Does anyone know the thread dimensions of the threaded ports for waste gate on the Garrett T3/4 turbo?

I will redo the waste gate lines with some HD stainless hose.

r.

Ending up changing turbos. Now I have figured out how to fit a Garrett GT3076R and a Tial F38 WG. Ball-bearing, water-cooled.
I am welding up a T3 angle extension to move the turbo away from the engine so it will fit and add the F30 WG above the turbo itself, then dump in after it.
Also wrapped the exhaust manifold.

Figuring out what angle I need for the T3 extension. About 58° on 5" radius:

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psalq878l5.jpg

Here is the fitting I welded up for the larger turbo:
http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psre2fyds6.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psmdqkeq7k.jpg

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psdwi8nfal.jpg

Next up, larger oil cooler, Tial F38 wastegate, fire it up.

Here is a diagram of the various turbo, inter-cooler & oil cooler on a secondary cooling circuit:

http://i1311.photobucket.com/albums/...psa3mmvkh3.png

CAD file
 

Do you guys happen to have a CAD file for how you are going to have yours cut from? I am rebuilding my D24T, out of my Pinzgauer, now and also noticed how restrictive those holes really are...

Thanks,
Phil

Do you notice cooler head temperatures with this gasket?

While it is running, I haven't run it hard - I am upgrading the turbo. Once that is done I will thrash it and see what happens.
If it runs a lot cooler, I won't know which of the following mods contributed how much:
-Porting the head gasket
-removing the thermostat and using Evan's waterless coolant.
-Fixing an auxiliary coolant pump.
-Adding a much larger oil cooler - taking the old one off the engine cooling circuit.
-The fluid/air intercooler, turbo water and the oil cooler are on a secondary cooling circuit I built with a fan/radiator at the back of the truck.
-Larger turbo (GT-3076R) should lower EGTs.

As for a CAD file, I don't think I should share. Two reasons:
1. I have a slightly different block in my Pinzgauer than what is in a Volvo. Pinz guys I will share, but is at your own risk - and I could even do them and then sell you the thing. If I did a few the cost would go down.
2. What if my new head and block are not the same for porting the head gasket?

I could easily see someone wasting $100 on an MLS gasket, $100 for water-jet cutting and then have it not work - so you have a huge amount of labor to go back and fix it.
I suggest you look at my very first post on this thread and find a way to do what I did for your setup - then you know it will work.

Will there be any issues with no tstat top hat to block off the coolant bypass path when warmed up to operating temp.?

I would expect so, and advocate a pinned open thermostat instead.

I also noticed on changing the water pump on a late D24TIC that the water pump pulley had a smaller gear for faster rotation.

Don't do this. Srsly.

The coolant flow through the engine starts with the WP shoving cold coolant in the front of the block. Coolant moves to the rear of the block, circulating around all cylinders. At the rear of the block, coolant moves upward through large openings in the HG. It then flows forward through the cylinder head. exiting out the front side of the head to go to radiator.

If the t-stat is left out, then some of the coolant will flow through the bypass circuit, instead of the radiator.

If the HG is opened up everywhere, then the coolant will take the path of least resistance, coming in the block at the WP and going straight up to exit out the side of the head. Coolant will not be forced to circulate to the rear of the head or block. The coolant gage will not get hot because the coolant is not pulling waste heat out the back cylinders. BTW, the tiny holes in a HG are called steam holes, because they are supposed to allow air bubbles out of the block to prevent small air pockets from turning into large steam pockets. They are not for coolant circulation.

HTH

Very true.. But there is only steam holes on the injection pump side, the manifold side of the head gasket is for coolant flow, notice the picture of the head gasket, the coolant passages on the manifold side get larger from cylinders 1 to 6.

Sorry for hijacking this thread but since you have a gasket to look at can you tell me where the oil ports are in the cylinder head? I have a D24T fitted to my boat and there is an oil leak from the front of the head behind the timing back plate, there is no sign of oil looking from the top but you can see it running down below the water pump. I have replaced the valve cover gasket so I am pretty sure it isn't the valve cover.
I once had a Ford Sierra which leaked at the front of the gasket at the oilway for a bit, then blew out suddenly, so I am wary of oil leaks.

I believe it is the only tear-drop shaped hole (near the middle). This is oil pressure, return.... I would have to look at a block to determine.

Spenser

The oil feed for the cylinder head is located around the cylinder head bolt on the injection pump side between cylinders 3 and 4. Or right behind the vacuum pump.
There is several drains, but I would highly doubt those would cause an oil leak.

Yes indeed. Those holes are to direct coolant at the exhaust ports.

That's good to know thanks, the engine is fitted to a boat, I have just remembered that about 4 years ago the sea water pump which is located just over the front of the engine leaked saltwater over the engine, it is possible that the end of the camshaft has become rusty and damaged the seal. I may just put up with it until the end of the season as I don't have time at the moment to strip it down.
Thank you for your help.

Yes, I agree with you. The only way I could see this working is if the bypass is blocked/removed and the coolant is always pushed through the block, head and back.
The Evans waterless coolant is high viscosity that concentrated antifreeze, almost a mineral oil.
The printed instructions I got said remove the Tstat and all any bypass.
The UK instructions on line say don't do any of that, leave the mechanics alone and clean and fill.

The two extreme modes for the cooling system in my application are:
1. WOT up 10% grade to 14k feet, blowing 20psi of boost, pushing 8,000#. Here I need to suck all the heat out I can.

2. I stop at 14k ft and have lunch, the engine cools off. The engine idles 90% of the way back. Any heat produced is sucked out and I get white smoke and rough idle.

I think I am really pushing the thermal loading envelope.
So I added an extra cooling circuit for the inter-cooler, turbo and oil cooler. I can turn the pump and fan on/off separately.

Wow.Sounds awesome. I would really love to see&hear all this. I wish you had a G()Pr() cam!

Yes, I have two of the 4k GPs. I'll put one facing the engine when it get it running. Getting closer....

Please post a link to your videos. Thanks a lot.