So the car is not dead
 

But I only have 2 weeks to get it fixed.

I have a small leak in the gaskets on the hydraulic steering column. The shop says i need to replace the whole rack and pinion steering mechanism, is that true?

I have a 1982 240 gl

everything else besides a bald edge of the front left wheel, is really in great shape. I am so lucky to have found this car. I plan on driving it to 500K. it's at 377K and still running strong.(well it is kinda slow but i love it to death anyways)

You need to rebuild the steering rack. If that is not something that you are able or want to tackle on your own, you will need to replace it with a rebuilt one. Those are a few hundred bucks, so not bad, or you could try your luck with a used one. It's not a difficult job -- the only tricky part if you haven't done it before is popping the balljoints on the outer tie rod ends, but you can rent a tool that makes that job easy. The rest is a snap, just 2 U-bolts that hold the rack to the crossmember, then the 2 power steering hose banjo connectins (one large bolt each), and you're out. If you have a balljoint tool the whole job will take you 20 minutes, including jacking the car up. You will have to get it aligned after you put the new rack in.

Rebuilding the rack yourself is not a huge deal -- they are pretty simple inside if you are able to find the rebuild parts, seals, etc -- but it means more downtime for the car because after you get the rack out, you have to leave the car taken apart while you redo the rack. If you have a rebuilt or good used rack already on hand when you remove the old leaky one, then you can have the car back on the road and all fixed in just an hour or two.

You're already more than halfway to 500k. Why not set a higher goal than that? :D If you take care of it (change the timing belt on schedule, use synthetic oil, take it slow when the engine is cold, and don't overheat it), it will probably last to a million. :cool:

Thanks for the great advice! I will take the best care of her that I can. I still have to figure out what all these extra parts that came with the car are for as well... and welding and metal work...gotta figure that one out. I have this big old mig i need to learn how to use. I think i'm going to try on my truck bed first...i have a f350 with the 7.3 L international...and a dump steak-body bed that is totally rusted out.

I think you mean stake body.

I would be very interesteted to see what a steak body truck looks like. :D :D

I don't think you can weld steak either, unless you are good at welding with ketchup.

Sorry... :p

sir, currently ketchup is the only think i know how to weld with.

i was wondering though, is it really better to weld? can't i just seal it up with that joint compound stuff for cars? isn't there something like that usually used for body work?

To do it "right" the panels should be welded in. What you are thinking of is automotive seam sealer. It is used to seal over welds or where panels overlap to keep moisture out. Once your panel is welded in, I like to prime over the welds and bare metal with a rust inhibiting primer, then seam seal it, then top coat. VW bodies were welded together and seam sealed over the bare metal. The metal ends up rusting under the seam sealer as some moister always gets through and then the seam sealer holds it there. Many VWs I have done rust repair and restoration work on have more rust around the seam sealed areas. Priming first well alow everything to be coated and all bare metal to be covered and should give the longest lasting repair. I have been doing it that way on all the cars we restore at the shop and everything that has come back is staying rust free. Here in the midwest, thats saying something! Sutff rusts out here just from the humidity!

Jason

cool, thanks jason.

Does that mean I should buy the whole panel new from a dealer and cut out the old one with an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw?

so i bought the power rack unit today. found it at jk auto for about 270 after i return the core. the guy told me volvos take ATF instead of power steering fluid, is that true?

They will be OK with either. ATF is fine.

use ATF, it is a crime to use power steering fluid!
Same goes for the manual transmission. for the love of GOD do not use MTL in your M45,M46, and M47. Always use ATF.

Once a month on average we get customers that went to jiffy lube or oil can henry's and now there rack leaks. So I ask them if they touched the power steering unit. yes they flushed it they reply.... I check the fluid and its clear. Gosh maybe thats why the rack seals blew out. customer calls up jiffy lube, and tries to get them to pay for the new rack because of their stupidity.

And yes they will put gear lube in the manual transmissions. It whipes out the OD and makes reverse not work so great.


Use ATF use ATF use ATF!!!!!
:)