Losing Power, SOS
 

I have a 1981 245 Diesel Wagon with around 180,000 miles on it. It starts great, but after less than 5 miles (it has been progressively less distance) begins to lose power & run hot, and then dies. The car is currently in the shop, and the mechanic assures me he's done multiple tests to see if it's the head gasket, and they all came up negative. Here's a list of what's been done recently:

- The fuel pump has been rebuilt
- The valves have been set
- The fuel filter is brand new
- The timing has been set
- The tank has been checked for any blockage

The mechanic has been working on these cars for many years, but he seems to be stumped at this point. He says he's thinking it over and doing research, but I would appreciate if anyone has any thoughts on what it could be. Everyone I've talked to says it sound very much like a fuel issue, but all parts of that system seem to be fine when they're tested. It truly is a mystery, and one I'm trying to get to the bottom of before the snows set in. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated, I just want to get this gorgeous car going!

Thanks in advance.

Will it restart after it dies?

How hot does it get?

Oil pressure?

Blocked exhaust?

Blocked radiator? (Does the radiator get uniformly hot over its entire surface?)

Water pump?

Re: ngoma
 

In response to your questions:


- Yes, it will restart after 20-30 minutes, once it cools down. It will idle all day with no overheating.

- It dies before the temperature gauge gets into the red, maybe up to 3/4.

- The oil pressure gauge says all is well.

- The radiator, exhaust and water pump I've not thoroughly checked; do you think one of those could make it die after a few miles?

- (This wasn't one of your questions, but I wanted to mention that this car is not a turbo.)

Thank you for your prompt reply, I feel confident this thing is on its way.

Heat advisory
 

When our d24 did similar things, 240 ended up at mechanic who said it had a bad thermostat (opening `late`/ or not at all) Car never overheated dangerously but was running with gauge showing higher than optimum+ some power loss. No issues at idling...He suggested replacing the radiator too so I never really got to know which one of these caused a real issue. Things are connected there. :)

After warmed up (or being hot already) `tired d24s` dont/cant/wont start up nicely if compression is not proper (but that does not happen suddenly but slowly developing) We had that too before engine overhaul (long story,rings broke,etc,bad type of oil,bad plugs,tap water,other *stupid* sh.t! and such abuse)

I hope you figure it out asap! As meteorologists say it in the Summer: ``Temperature kills!`` ...
Here`s an old school photo from the early 90`s.

Hard to say. I've seen a water pump impeller loose on its shaft so it doesn't pump coolant like it should. But if the engine is shutting down from excessive overheating, that's got to be hard on the internals. Pistons expanding in their bores, etc.

Does it sound different as it approaches the shut down? Smoke? Stutter? Lose power? Usually, an engine getting hot enough to seize up really gives noticeable symptoms; open the hood and it's real hot, smells of burning oil, sounds of frying oil, steam out the radiator overflow, etc.

When you try to restart it immediately after it shuts down, does the starter spin the engine at normal speed? Or does it labor, as if the engine is seized up?

Has the engine been run low on oil? Coolant? Ever used a stop-leak product?

How far out of spec were the valves?

The time does sound about right for a thermostat in 'shut' mode.

What happens if you idle instead of driving?

Any chance there is gasoline in the tank? that will run worse and worse before stopping.

745 TurboGreasel, In case you missed it:

More info
 

I don't think it's getting hot enough to boil over before it shuts down. It doesn't stutter or sound any different, but it definitely losing power, big time. We never experienced any of those signs of a typically overheated engine, i.e steam, frying sounds.

As for trying to start it right back up, I'll have to check with the mechanic and get back to you. We got it to start alright once after dying, but then later on another occasion it had to rest a few minutes (though this could have owing to a low battery, loose alternator belt, etc.)

For the three years before the problem started it was never run low either on oil or water, and never had stopleak applied. Half the valves needed thicker shims, but the car was running fine before that was done.

It's worth mentioning that the mechanic told me it's dying sooner now, less than a half mile down the road and so before it gets hot. Considering how neatly it would seem to fit the symptoms, would him getting a false negative from head gasket tests be possible? If the car was tested only while idling, could that mask the gasket being a bust?

Any suggestions on what I should have the mechanic check out or do to the car would be much appreciated. It's been there for two months, and I'm looking forward to solving the mystery and getting the machine out on the road.

Thanks again in advance

Did you ever get this resolved?
 

I have a 1982 245 Diesel with the EXACT same problem! Would love to know if you resolved this. Thanks so much!