Update: Bad news from the diesel shop. Took the injector pump in for them to inspect, they want $750 to rebuild it. Metal filings in feed pump. Even with as much time as I have in the car, I don't know if I can stomach dropping that much, and don't think I am up for rebuilding it myself. Any thoughts?

"Metal filings in feed pump" could be caused by running with a clogged fuel filter. Feed pump struggles for fuel, which also helps lubricate it, and destroys itself and other parts downstream, sending the eroded metal bits downstream.

I cant speak for what happened in the many years before I had it, but when I bought it I was told
1. it had sat for a while 4-5 years, maybe more, and
2. it had a new(rebuilt) pump.

So I removed, emptied, and (maniacally) scrubbed the inside of the fuel tank, ran gasoline and seafoam through the metal fuel lines, changed the filter (twice I think) and have only driven it 30 miles or so. But obviously it was being starved of fuel somehow though, because it would not start after a few good starts and runs, then eventually it started stalling.

Gasoline in the IP could do it in.

I had the pump rebuilt and it is back in the car. I am installing the timing gear now and need the tool that keeps the pump from turning when torquing the nut (5193 I think). Does anyone have a drawing or dimensions, I have access to a machine shop to make one.

About a 7/16 deep socket.

Did the shop have any information for you about the failure mode?

7/16 deep socket will work like a charm IF I can fit it between the gear and the firewall. There is just no room to do the work. What about torquing? I dont see how I can fit a big torque wrench anywhere. Of course the book shows torquing it off the car, but I didn't see a way to install the bracket bolts to the block once the pump was attached.

Unfortuantely I was traveling for work, so the wife picked up the pump from the shop. I will call them later this week and see if they have any info on the cause of failure.

This is where D24 Special Tools come in handy. You need the 17mm - 1/2" square drive dogleg wrench!:D
Attachment 411
It hugs the rear of the IP pulley then bends toward the front, clearing the firewall. Torque wrench can insert from the front.
See sticky D24 Special Tools for reference.


I did this once from below, after removing the fuel filter housing. A little tricky getting the bolt started but not too bad overall!