Recommendation needed: Injection Pump Rebuild
 

Looking for someone to rebuild an injection pump. Any recommendations?? Shipping out isn't a problem. Thanks.

Bummer. What happened to it?

If you want modifications, send it to Giles. Otherwise, there are several diesel injector/ injection pump shops in (closer to you) Oregon but let's wait for member v8volvo to tell which OR shop rebuilt (a few times?) one (some?) of his that turned out to be leakers shortly afterward. So maybe you can avoid them, even though the price was good.

Yes, I had DFIS in Portland rebuild a D24T pump for me several years ago that has been a lemon ever since -- runs fine but I had to replace advance piston cover gaskets on it within the first 15 months (both sides at different times -- including the inner side, which is a pain!), and then just last fall the shaft seal sprung a large leak for no visible reason so I had to change that as well. Now have about 40,000 miles on it in ~4 years and have had it off the motor at least twice since it was overhauled -- not fun!

I have had DFIS rebuild many TDI pumps and a number of other older VE pumps over the years and this was the first and only one of theirs I have ever had a problem with, so I I suspect they may have just gotten unlucky with some old or subpar parts when they put this one together. I don't think it was their fault. I still hold them in high regard and wouldn't hesitate to use them.

Another option for a really good rebuild on a mechanical VE, I would recommend Central Motive Power in Denver, CO. A former colleague of mine is their senior fuel shop tech, a guy with a lot of skill who actually enjoys building VE pumps (most techs don't!) and knows how to get the extra cold start bits, etc on a D24T pump right (most techs don't!). Just make sure you tell them to build your pump to sea level spec if you send it to them, since most of the work they do is for customers in the Rocky Mountain area and they usually set the pumps up accordingly.

Nevertheless, I'm also curious, why do you think it needs rebuilt? Rebuilds are expensive ($600-800) and in truth, are very rarely necessary, usually only in the case of abnormal abuse/damage.

What are your symptoms?

Thanks for the info! I'll check out DFIS today.

I purchased the pump from a Washington repair shop who was selling it for a customer/friend. They reported it as working, removed from a perfectly running vehicle with no leaks. Received the pump as promised and installed the pump. We had a heck of a time trying to get the car to run afterwards. We didn't have the timing tools but followed the manual & the guys doing it are competent & familiar with diesels of this sort. Anyway, after trying and trying took it to our diesel mechanic buddy who reported back that the pump is no good.

As far as symptoms... I am going to describe these to the best of my listening-in or overhearing girlie-self can. Symptoms we encountered were either black smoke or white smoke depending on where the pump was timed. Then we had trouble with the throttle, as in no throttle control (push on gas, does nothing). After hours of fussing with it, the boys decided to break and sleep on it. They decided to call in the diesel mechanic friend.

I didn't speak directly to the diesel mechanic friend but what I overheard & understood was that he the same problems with the throttle control, or lack of. The pump doesn't respond to the order for more or less fuel.

So.... I also have another pump (the one that came with the car) up at Oregon Fuel Injection. It was leaking, I sent it up for a reseal, they won't reseal because some internal component is "flaking". At that time found out I was missing my cold start advance module-thing therefore the total cost of the rebuild and replace cold start advance (so they could properly test it) was $1100. This was a little steep & I had just found the listing for the "working" pump in Washington ($500) which came with glow plugs, injectors, and fuel lines. I went this route to save a buck (which now really isn't going to).

I've had such bum luck with injection pumps. My IP drama has been going on for months now. I've just about used up all my time with borrowing vehicles (thanks dad & friend's dad). I was really hoping the purchased pump would present no troubles.

I hope I've provided enough translatable details. Thanks again for all your input. I'm in love with my wagon but this shiz is wearing on me. I suppose if I had another car it wouldn't be so bad...

I have a rebuilt low mile D24 injection pump if you are interested, I ran the engine myself, I know the pump is GOOD...

What repair manual were you following for installing the pump, the Volvo green manual or something different? What exact steps did the mechanics take to set the injection timing -- was it all "by feel" or visual? Did the motor have a lot of difficulty starting even after the fuel system was re-primed?

The problems you're describing could possibly be due to an internal injection pump problem, sticking throttle control can result from that, I have seen it once or twice on pumps that sat "uncorked" for a long time where old fuel exposed to air turned into gum. (How long ago was this IP removed from a good-running motor?)

However, your symptoms can absolutely also be a result of unsuccessful installation and timing of an otherwise-healthy injection pump. In particular, the fact that the inability to control engine speed is paired with excessive smoke makes me strongly question how the pump was installed and timed. Those two symptoms have separate causes, and having them together is pretty unusual. I think it is more likely, or at least very possible, that the pump is fine and the problem lies with how it was set up.

At this point, before taking any other steps, I really suggest getting *all* of the correct tools and information and verifying beyond any doubt that the pump is installed and timed correctly, by going through the complete timing procedure from start to finish. Right now you're running blind; the pump might be the problem, but it might not. It's a lot less work (and money!) to figure out where you sit now, and then make an informed decision about what steps to take next, than it is to blindly change the pump again and possibly find that the pump was not the problem!

The tools you need are readily available to buy for under $50: here is a good-quality ZDMak set for $49 http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Tools-Bosc..._Tools&vxp=mtr Or, there are several members on this forum, myself included, who will be happy to loan you their set for free (with deposit in my case).

Beyond that, all you need is the step-by-step procedure for checking injection timing. This can be found in the D24 or D24T green books, both of which can be viewed in their entirety online at a number of sources, including this one: http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...24_repairs.pdf

The procedure has also been discussed extensively here on the forum, and you can find many tips about it if you want to do some reading. Here is one post that goes through it in detail:
http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=6253&postcount=16
And another thread: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=928
And you'll find many more if you look around the "Engine" or "Help!" sections a bit.

Be sure to use the procedures that describe how to just *check* the timing, not those that describe how to adjust it. At this point, all you want to do is establish where it is set now, as a baseline. If it needs to be changed, you will do that after determining where it is set now.

Other notes:

• Did you remember what we mentioned about the "in" and "out" banjo bolts for the fuel supply and return? If these are reversed, inability to increase engine speed above idle and excessive smoke are the typical effects, so check this again carefully.
• How recent is your fuel filter? Any air in the translucent fuel line from the filter to the IP inlet when the motor is running?
• Pay close attention, when checking timing, to the position of the *camshaft* as well as the crankshaft. The crank turns over twice for every revolution of the cam, so therefore it is possible to install the injection pump 180 degrees out of phase even though it appears to be timed correctly with reference to the crank. Often in these cases the engine will start (with difficulty) and run, but will have very limited control over engine speed and smoke copiously. Sound familiar? :) You can easily verify whether the cam is at #1 TDC by checking whether the vacuum pump pushrod is at maximum or minimum extension when the crank is at TDC. (You'll have the vacuum pump removed anyway to install the dial indicator in the IP.)
• If you find that the timing is out of spec, check back here on the forum for tips on how to adjust it. There are a number of different methods, and some are easier than others.
• Most important: DO NOT allow anyone to use STARTING FLUID, or ether, to start the engine, even if they are very frustrated or they believe it will help! Ether causes immediate major engine damage to D24 family engines (as well as many others). It absolutely must not be used under any circumstances.

So, you have some ways you can move forward towards getting it fixed here. Diagnose it before you buy any more parts! Let us know how we can help! :)

Could this be the problem? Tell us how you timed it. Which manual did you follow?

After reading the info above from v8volvo, this is most likely the problem. :)

v8volvo - holy schmolies!! what a wealth of information. I cannot thank you enough for the sharing of your knowledge & your time to draft such a great & helpful response. I am taking this to both my guys & to the mechanic buddy. Looks like I am in the market for the *right tools*.

In reference to the 180 degrees, out... I remember the guys swapping the whatever back and forth, mentioning that it was 180 degrees off, & working with TDC, so yes, it sounds very familiar.

I am now hopeful that I do not have to find another or rebuild a pump.

Hugs all around!!! (yes, 'cause I'm one of those happy girls like that)

Hold on! I like hugs too but if you would answer his question:
Then we would have a MUCH better idea of what to suggest to you to make this a less painful situation and arrive at a solid solution.

We WANT to help you.

We CAN help you.

We WILL help you, if:::::::::::::::::::::::: you play along with the 20 questions game. There is a certain "best" method to installing the injection pump and timing it. ANYTHING ELSE will end up with big problems (as you are seeing now) and is the cause for premature deaths of many of these cars. It is not so complicated but it is "out of the ordinary" for most mechanics and many think they can get the job done using methods that have worked for years on other cars. But, here even good intentions can cause bad results.

This engine will not run well if it is not timed correctly. To time it correctly requires the proper (specialty) tools, and following the correct method in the correct order. NO CHEATING! Unless you are lucky.:D

So let's approach this like a science problem, take a step at a time, observe, note the results, and report back.

Again,
Please answer and watch how we start making progress!