Ok, that makes sense. Was thinking maybe movement of ball stud correlates to timing advance.

In the first link you left, step 4 or 5 mentions a green dash. I wasn't able to find it, but I think the CS is in good condition anyway. It starts a bit better with rpms up, although it still runs rough for a few moments and oil pressure takes a little while to build.

OK, forum member 745 TurboGreasel, in post #15 of this topic "cold start removal" was referring to This Photo:http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...pse4d525e1.jpg with its added legibility-challenged green and pink notations.

Apparently he was referring to the colorized green dash (crudely) photoshopped at approx. the 3 o-clock location (near center right of that photo). Meaning that is where the cold start lever should be positioned at cold idle, with a several mm gap between the side of the lever and the bent sheet metal stop tab. "In brief, cold you should have a gap at the end of the 'cold advance' arrow. As the car runs for awhile, that gap should close till the arm rests against the tab at the [right] end of the green dash." [Italics mine]

I think he was describing the position of the cold start lever in relation to its stop tab. That green dash at the end of the pink arrow was showing that gap.