244 is ALIVE!
 

Update on my 244 project. I got it running last Saturday by pulling it down PA-120 with my 242 gasser. It started pretty much right up and I drove it a mile into Westport and turned around. When I got back, the road was still fogged with smoke. My poor wife who was pulling me with the 242, then followed me after it started said she had to put it on recirculate because smoke was coming in the vents (haha). I warmed it up and added BG109, let it run a half hour and dumped the oil (which was fresh the night before), then adding Mobil 1 5w30. It seems to run OK and my injection pump reseal was successful. It does have a lot of blowby and has a slight miss on idle. I suspect a stuck (or, I hope not) a broken ring. It seems to be running better and better, but I had only put 22 miles on it. It started at 8ºF Sunday morning, but it took a few tries. Not sure if I should drive it for a bit to see if it gets better or if I am going to do more damage that way if, in fact, it does have a broken ring. Pictures of the 242 hooked to the 244 diesel to follow....

I bet that oil came out real nasty after the 109 was in there. If you ran that, I doubt you have any stuck rings. Its possible, but they are probably worn and or broke. It wouldn't hurt to pop test the injectors and see how they are doing. Check for loose ones, or injetors that are firing around the heat shield. I have had that happen with new heat shields that weren't stamped correctly, and didn't crush when the injector was tightened down. The engine would miss at idle and low rpms. When you take the injector out, the entire tip would be black, rather than just the area the size of the small hole in the shield.

Jason

It was pretty nasty. I did pull the valve cover again after the 109 because I did not seat the gasket right and it leaked. Upon removing it, I noticed how clean that stuff got the motor. The blowby has me concerned though, it is an awful lot. Will it harm it to run it the way it is for a while if in fact it does have a broken ring? Current plan is to yank the motor and replace it with one I am going to rebuild. If that is the case, the plan then is that the 244 motor will be rebuilt and put in Eli's 245.

The engine that i just rebuilt had a few broken rings, and one cylinder with all of them broke that had no compression and wouldn't fire. The car was driven untill that cylinder totally died and it just wouldn't run anymore. That cylinder wasn't in any worse shape than any of the others. Even so, I don't think I would drive it if the engine is that boarderline on being worn out. Might as well just take it apart.

Jason

I was hoping to drive it to see if things freed up anymore, plus I wanted to evaluate what else the car needs before tearing out the motor. I know it needs front tires at the very least and the rotors need to be cut or replaced, and I suspect there will be a frozen caliper in the rear.

What kind of rings work well for the D24's? I have heard some bad things about some of the 2-piece design rings, but can't remember what the issue was. Who is a good supplier to get the rings from? I'll be rebuilding 2-D24's in the near future.

The rings I can get are Deves, and are US made. They are pretty pricey though, like 150ish for the set. They are what I used in my engine though, and I know of many guys that have used their rings in race engines that were run very hard and they held up great. I figured I would spend a little more and get something good, but then again I'm running my engine pretty hard. That is also assuming the engine is std bore and doesn't need to be overbored... Which is doubtful. The non turbo's were bad about wearing the cylinders thanks to the carbon build up from burning dirty, and the softer non turbo block.

Jason

So I can assume I will need to have it bored out. What brand pistons should I get if thats the case? I am hoping it won't need to be bored, but I suspect the motors I have will need to be bored (that is how my luck goes).

Do a search, there is a link to a parts place that had pistons real cheap, I think Dennis bought a set from them. They were under 100 a piece. As far as I know, the only option is German Kolbenshmidt. From what I understand the chinese ones being sold only fit the 1.6 diesel because of the oil squirter notch location. I would highly doubt the block doesn't need to be bored. I would just plan on it.

Jason

Many of the Kolbenshmidt pistons are too short, and result in an engine with too-low compression, even with the 1-notch head gasket. If you go with the Kolbenshmidts I'd test assemble it and check the piston protrusion, and if they don't come up high enough get the block decked slightly to compensate.

Haven't hear of that problem... As far as I know Dennis got his engine together without problems. Something to look out for though!

Jason