noon rebuild question
 

This d24t is definitely burning oil, and will hang around 4-5k rpm unless you chunk it into 4th with the brakes on. There was lots of oil pooling under injector 6 and some under 5. Does anyone know a reputable shop for a rebuild in Massachusetts? And what do you think a ballpark price would be for a full rebuild with boring out the cylinders and oversized pistons?

*huh that was supposed to say noob rebuild question, but I guess it was noon time somewhere...

Is it something you just bought?
Welcome on the Forum!
I would use grease remover+power washer to fully clean the engine bay and diagnose everything first.

You might not* need more than a good tune-up and proper adjustments.

I bought this car last year some time, I replaced the turbo, because it burned about a gallon of oil on its maiden drive from Maine to mass. The turbine had so much play I was surprised it didn't self destruct. While this drive was mostly after midnight, it was hard to find a place to buy oil, and I'm sure the engine ran way too low at some point because I filled like 4 quarts into it when I was an hour from home, and that only brought it halfway up the dipstick.
It's been having trouble starting cold, and revs get hung up high if I Rev it too high. Once I ran some diesel slick / cleaner through it and it seemed to help the revving issue for a little but it does it again now. I did replace all the glow plugs, but it only starts cold after cranking for like a minute, while jumped from my truck. It needs to be spinning really way faster than it should need to. It starts on the first or second Rev when warm though.
I definitely noticed blue smoke at high rpms.
Good tip on pressure washing the engine bay, it is filthy oily.

Yeah I would agree with getting some degreaser and cleaning everything up first to see where the oil is coming from. Maybe the breather on top of the engine is clogged and causing oil leaks or causing oil into the cylinders which would also give you unwanted RPM and obviously oil consumption. But with the fact that you say it's very very hard to start when it's cold would make me think that it's low on compression and just probably worn out. Do you put any throttle input when trying to start it?

Actually I had forgot to hook 12v lead to the glow plugs rail... so the contact was just barely resting, but not attached. I tried it today with the glow plugs hooked up and it started much quicker, like 10 or so revs, but I did need to give it a little throttle to get it to "catch" when it was almost there. What are the revs supposed to be for a cold start? It idles at around 900-1k cold, and it's steady at 800-900 warm. Maybe the cold start device is misadjusted?

I personally don't know what the specified engine RPM is supposed to be when it's cold. I don't use the coldstart device. I don't idle my cars, it warms up faster when you just drive it gently. One time when I was moving I let the car run for almost a half hour and I still didn't have any heat and the engine temperature was still buried in the cold. If I just take it out and keep the Revs low I have heat in about five minutes.

OK so the cold start device isn't necessary to also aid with cold starting? I figured the extra throttle from the device might help to start it.

It does help. Exactly how much is hard to say. Russ' example may be a bit of an outlier since I believe his fueling is higher than stock (he leaves a nice black cloud, but somehow still manages freakish high MPGs, wtf) There's a good CS checklist here

Greenbook says warm idle 850 -+ 50 rpms, cold start ~200 rpms higher. But I think the common practice is to set CS higher for quicker warm ups/easier cold starting. It also says to give partial throttle when starting, maybe this is similar to a carb'd car, I've never driven one.

I find that mine tends to idle lower than 1200 (where my cold idle is set) for the first few seconds of running. I don't let it sit to get warm, but I do wait until the oil pressure light goes off which can take a few moments. It also starts at the 2nd or 3rd crank. When I had bad (offbrand) GPs in there it took 3 cycles of the GPs to start quickly and even then it would idle like dogshit.

That being said your oil consumption and possible runaway condition sound more troubling. I would confirm injection timing and go from there. Are there any engineers marks on parts of the pump? (can look like neon paint) Maybe someone before you played with fueling and it's too high. Does the car smoke under boost?

I will run through that checklist you posted, thanks. I seem to remember blue smoke under boost. But it may be from old oil still burning off the downpipe? Maybe it still has a cat, and it's filled with oil? I remember last year I tried running diesel slick cleaner in the tank, and it seemed to stop the runaway, it was like the ip throttle was getting stuck open or something. Maybe I should change the fuel filter, and really flush the ip with diesel slick.