Yes, the two triangular pieces. I have the manifold gaskets. When I search online there's only the crushable donut types with nuts, bolts and springs which I've used on other vehicles. There was only evidence of some thin material on there previously maybe from the factory. The Green Book only mentions exhaust manifold gaskets and to use new nuts regarding the exhaust system.

Exhaust flange donut 2-3/16 ID x 2-5/8 OD, seems to be a dense graphite type material, rings when it hits the cement, not real crushable. I did see it recently at O'Reillys website.

Springs? I haven't seen them on these cars but the studs on the front triangle flange are long enough for them. the nuts are similar to the exhaust manifold nuts. Slather the studs with anti-sieze.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...72.m2749.l2658


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Exhaust-Gas...4AAOSwbX1a10PA



Good afternoon. I got it from the top link.The exhaust system connection ring is where the gearbox is M46.

Thanks for the exhaust info, guys.

At this point I have the installed the fuel Ines, radiator and hoses, fan and shroud, and the valve cover.

In the next couple of days I plan to install the exhaust and intake manifolds, vacuum pump, add coolant and change the fuel filter. The cold start device is being a bit stubborn getting turned back to the normal position. There are a couple of pieces that I cannot identify which will be in attached photos. One is a nut and bolt that were among the nuts for the valve cover which was disassembled prior to me owning the car. The other is what looks like a bracket. Any help identifying these pieces would be appreciated!

Gettin' there...

The one on the right is the bracket that is used to help lift or hoist the engine, located at the front of the engine near the timing belt cover... on the driver side...also visible on the top of the d24 forum page logo / icon.

And see the layout here too:
https://youtu.be/tT9XE9Wl-JE

Thanks for the quick reply. I knew that bracket looked familiar. The engine in the video sounded very nice, almost like an old two-stroke Detroit. I hope to hear that sound in my garage very soon.

That hoist bracket also serves as an important spacer for the top portion of the (fragile) aluminum PS bracket, which will surely crack if you bolt it up without the hoist bracket (or suitable thickness washer spacer) sandwiched between the PS bracket and engine.

IP cold start lever can be difficult to turn unless the IP is spinning.

The nut and bolt look like the style that is used for the attachment points of the power steering pump to its mounting bracket (bolts go through straps and rubber bushings). I will see if I can find a photo. Is there any hardware missing from the PS pump mount points?

One way I have found to see where the VW/Audi part of the engine ends and the Volvo car interface begins is with the hardware used. The VW hardware typically involves regular non-shouldered hex bolts with 10mm or 13mm heads and flat washers. Meanwhile Volvo appeared to favor flange bolts like the one your picture shows, with no washer used, and a 10mm, 12mm, or 14mm head. Thus when working on or inside the engine itself you will have 10mm and 13mm tools in use, but if you need to get out a 12mm or 14mm tool, that suggests you are dealing with an external "vehicle integration" part of the engine where Volvo added its own parts to adapt the engine into its cars. Power steering/AC/alternator mounting, motor mounts, throttle and cruise linkage, electrical ground or harness attachments, etc are where this type of hardware will be used.

Trying to put something back together that someone else took apart is always a challenge. I have enough trouble with stuff I myself took apart then try to reassemble years later, let alone when someone else did it. Sounds like you are making great progress, will be fun to hear how it runs after many years. :cool:

The CS device is not critical to getting the engine running but you do need to get it into the fully retracted position in order to correctly set the static injection timing. If needed you could disconnect or remove the cable linkage and then internal spring pressure should retract it into the warm position when you spin the pump a few times. In temperate weather it will start fine without the CSD functioning and once you have it running and warmed up you can get the linkage reinstalled and dialed in.

Добрый день.У нас весна. Скоба d24 с насосом гидроусилителя руля с нижним расположением.

D24 Крепление насоса через резиновые втулки.