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morgan1227 03-31-2014 08:39 PM

85 740 won't start
 
Well I revived an old 85 740 TD that had been sitting in the desert sun for years. It started a few times and ran good, then would not start. I could re-fill the IP from the bleed screw and get it to start up. But then it started stalling, back in the garage, that's a safety issue, esp with a teen driver.

It had a new IP installed when the engine was rebuilt, but it has been sitting for 4-5 years. I put in clear fuel lines and verified no air tank to fiilter. But I noticed that when it stalled, air came from the pump BACK toward the filter housing. So I figured maybe a leaky shaft seal. I had someone pull the IP for me (it was a bear). Now it is out of the car. What should do while it is out? I have a new shaft seal. Other seals? Where can I get them, it is a Bosch VE1394L-1 pump. Replace glow plugs 5 & 6? Clean all injectors? Get the pump bench tested? Anything else? thanks, Bill in AZ

ngoma 03-31-2014 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by morgan1227 (Post 8365)
I put in clear fuel lines and verified no air tank to fiilter.

Good start (no pun intended). Just as important: What did you see from the IP return line?

Quote:

Originally Posted by morgan1227 (Post 8365)
But I noticed that when it stalled, air came from the pump BACK toward the filter housing. So I figured maybe a leaky shaft seal.

Yes, that is a good guess, other than that it could be a loose (fuel supply) hose connection somewhere between the IP body and fuel filter. Don't forget the somewhat common occurrance of an extra of the (small) rubber square-cut sealing o-ring between the fuel filter and its housing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by morgan1227 (Post 8365)
I have a new shaft seal. Other seals? Where can I get them, it is a Bosch VE1394L-1 pump. Replace glow plugs 5 & 6? Clean all injectors? Get the pump bench tested? Anything else? thanks, Bill in AZ

Since you already have it, might as well install the new shaft seal. Take care not to scratch the shaft itself. AND careful removing the cogged pulley for access. Don't let it fly off the shaft, hit the ground and crack off a piece! Was the IP leaking fuel from anywhere? You can get the seal kit easily from a local Bosch distributor, they can get most any part if you give them the numbers on the side of the IP.

Also, since the IP is out, now is the time to replace GPs #5 and 6. Then test the old ones and keep them for spares if they check OK. Test the other 4 now also, just to verify they are not part of your problem.

From your supplied list of symptoms, it doesn't look like injector problems (yet).

Now, the million dollar question: How are you going to time it after replacing the IP?

WAIT! Is this the same car as from this post:
Intermittent failure to start

And/or this one?
Hi from Arizona - trying to bring one back

And/or this one?
bubbling injector

Maybe even post #6 from this thread?
Replaced the Fuel Filter, now it wont start

Sorry, now I'm just confused :confused:

morgan1227 05-10-2014 02:17 PM

Unfortunately I did not put a clear hose on the return line.

No loose connections or extra o-ring on the filter, checked those.

The cogged pulley was already cracked! Looks like that happened to someone in the past, I have a new one on order.

I have the shaft seal now, any other seals that should be changed now that the pump is out? I thought I read on here that there are three external seals that can leak. I really don't want to tear the pump apart, it looks like a pain.

I was going to time it using the green book and you experts!

Yes this is same car from the other posts - those were all issues I had getting the car started initially (all solved except now this).

745 TurboGreasel 05-11-2014 12:22 AM

Does the shaft have play in the direction of belt pull? If the belt was too tight, the bushing wears.

Mark alignment, and pull one of the arms off the side of the pump, then the washer. behind that will be an oring. gently pick it out.
If that oring is anything but plump round and supple, you need to reseal the pump, otherwise put it back(lube with a dab of vaseline/assembly lube) and hope for the best.

I feel left out, my pulleys only seem to dent or bend, never had one crack.

morgan1227 05-11-2014 02:29 PM

No play in the shaft.

Sorry What do you mean by an arm?

745 TurboGreasel 05-11-2014 02:52 PM

Cold start or emergency stop lever, the throttle one is behind a bunch more stuff is why I suggest one of the other two..

morgan1227 05-18-2014 08:01 PM

pulled the cold stop arm, checked the o-ring. actually looked good, so back in and I have a new pulley just arrived.

What about changing the fuel valve while I have it out? Also I changed all the copper crush washers on all the banjo fittings already before pulling the pump. Do I need new ones each time? thanks

745 TurboGreasel 05-18-2014 09:13 PM

I just re anneal them if they leak.

Fuel valve won't likely trouble unless there is debris in the pump.

ngoma 05-19-2014 07:33 AM

Looks like you are getting ready to replace the IP mainshaft seal? These NEVER come out without a major struggle! Do yourself a favor and get the Lisle 58430 tool. Seriously could save you a couple of hours.

Did you verify the seal is leaking?

morgan1227 05-21-2014 03:22 PM

TG, do you just use a torch to anneal the copper washers? how do you know when you have them hot enough, color? The valve is really hard to get at when installed, that is why I wondered about switching it.

NG, about that shaft seal... Let's just say I should have consulted the board before getting into that one. I would up destroying it getting it out, not mention some damage to the surface behind it. But the good news is that I didn't damage the shaft! And I have a new one ready to go, along with a little JB weld for the housing.

This weekend I'm going to attempt to put everything back together, so...


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