Is there a difference between a n/a IP & a turbo IP??
 

To get my 84 245 d24 up & running, the injection pump needs to be rebuilt/replaced/???
I want to eventually (sooner than later) convert to a turbo. Is there a difference between injection pumps?? So if I pay for the rebuild now, will I need to pay again during the conversion??
Can anyone offer a better idea than a rebuild? I've had trouble finding a replacement and am looking at the rebuild, which is just under $1000.
Thanks for any an all input.

Turbo IP has the fuel boost compensator mounted to the top of the IP. Actually, isn't it an entirely different top cover assembly with the compensator built-in to it? It is the saucer-shaped device on the top of the IP, referred to as the "LDA.".

Sorry I have no time right now to search some links for you but you probably can-- try search Bosch VE IP LDA or similar.

Oh, here you go http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/figure_13.jpg

Rebuild what? Engine? IP?

Your best bet is to get a turbo pump now, it will act as if it is off boost until you add your turbo.

Do you need a rebuild? If it just leaks or loses prime, a reseal might take care of you. If it never runs, does not move fuel at all, has inconsistent speed control, wont turn, or is full of debris, it probably need rebuild or replacement.

I've had pretty good luck resealing them, but it is a quite involved process.

It'll need a rebuild since some component on the inside is cracking/flaking/chipping or whatever the shop said. Luckily (!!!!!) I just found another online in good condition that I purchased. Also includes the cold start advance which my car was missing entirely.

Also, I've heard of people saying their cold start is disconnected (& mine was missing, hose blocked & clamped). What gives with these things? Why are they disconnected or missing??

1. Fails over to the cold start mode-- leaving the IP to run in overly advanced condition all the time, not good for the engine.

2. Replacement parts hard to find-- the thermostatic actuator (waxstat) inside the housing appears to be NLA or close to it.

3. Cold start device, even when working as designed, is of limited value in more moderate climates. Disconnecting it does not produce any real hardship.

Because someone who worked on it before was lazy. :D

Cold start thermostat is readily available from any Bosch outlet -- it was briefly on backorder but a new batch has been produced. (Part # 1 467 202 302) Very easy to find. They seem to have a lifespan of about 20 years -- could be worse.

Disconnecting it doesn't prevent the engine from being started, so it's not a real hardship in the sense of disabling the car, but it does detract from the experience of using it... If you don't mind the feeling of driving a cold-blooded clunker and your neighbors aren't bothered by smoke on winter mornings, then it's no big deal, but I think letting things like this go is what can sometimes lead to someone losing their love (or at least their day-to-day tolerance) for an older car. Matter of opinion, I know. ;) But this is far from difficult or expensive to fix properly... easier than adding a cable for sure, and more pleasant than leaving it disconnected!

If you live where it never gets cold at all, and/or you have head studs and perfect injectors and run static timing pushing 1mm, and you have a manual gearbox, then perhaps it might not have much noticeable effect. I find mine makes a difference even starting on 65F summer mornings -- not that it wouldn't run without it, but runs better with it, and doesn't feel as much like a car I have to make excuses for driving.

YMMV. :p

Good to know that! Apparently I have been living in the (not too distant) past!