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-   -   Intermittent starting problem (warmish engine) (http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=1207)

Jase 03-02-2014 09:11 AM

Intermittent starting problem (warmish engine)
 
Hi,

Have been quiet on here, this is my first ever post on a forum so bear with me :o

I have owned my 1991 940TD since August and apart from a new battery has got through a very wet winter with no problems.

But in the last couple of weeks has been playing up a bit:

Apart from all the smoke and clattering she starts from cold okay but after driving and reaching running temp when left for a little bit (30 - 60 mins) she doesn't always start, just turns over. Often the glow plug relay sounds like it is clicking back and forth.

If anybody has any advice or information I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance

Jason

745 TurboGreasel 03-02-2014 03:47 PM

If cold start is not smooth, you cold be looking at an ailing seal introducing air, or one glow plug failed...check fuel return line for bubbles.
I've also seen a few older injection pumps do that, and falsely triggering the glow plugs for a few seconds seem to work around the issue. As a quick check, when you are having the issue, use a short U of #10 or bigger wire to jump the 2 big terminals on the glow relay, count to 10, and have a go at starting the car.
Also if you have some type of primer pump, prime and try to start...if fixed air leak in fuel supply.

Jase 03-02-2014 11:08 PM

Hi, thanks for the info, i will try that next time!

Jase 03-08-2014 10:12 AM

Happened again today :-S Definitely seems to be a problem occurring when the engine is warm; wouldn't start after a 30min journey. We just left it, went for a walk, had a cup of tea and cake, came back and she started :-) Mind you i think it was about 3 hours!!

ngoma 03-08-2014 11:50 PM

Low compression?
 
So-- back to square one? Starts reliably when cold, starts OK when hot but not warm (after sitting 30-60 minutes)?

Low compression unfortunately can cause this. But you can "workaround" it for quite a while by forcing the GPs to energize when the engine is warm to help a low-compression start.

Simply disconnect the temp sensor for the GPs. It's the sensor at the rear of the head, almost underneath the rear camshaft cogged sprocket. This will fool the GP brain into thinking it is massively cold each time you turn the ignition key from off to on, and give max time for the GPs. You will soon get the hang of how much time to let the GPs sizzle before a warm start.

NOTE: This will tend to wear out the GPs sooner than normal.

Jase 03-09-2014 12:32 AM

Hi Ngoma, thanks for the info. I díd vaguely remember something about the temp sensor, but in the middle of the car park with my little son getting fed up in the back couldn't see it! :$ i'm putting in new gp's today well hopefully....

ngoma 03-09-2014 11:41 AM

That must mean you have verified the GPs are bad?

Jase 03-11-2014 12:10 AM

No, I bought the plugs on some earlier advice. I thought i may as well fit 'em; as it turns out no 6 plug hadn't been done with the last change.
Car wouldn't start again last night, disconnected the temp sensor and off she went :-)
Thanks again

ngoma 03-11-2014 10:05 AM

Great! You can test the old GPs and keep the good ones as spares. Use a large wire size as they pull high amperage. I like to use battery cables, powering them from a car battery. They should glow red hot within about 6 seconds or less.

Too bad about the apparent low compression, which is what this symptom exhibits (cold/hot starts OK, warm starts require GPs). When was the last valve clearance check/adjust? Driving around with the valves too tight can burn and erode them.

Jase 03-11-2014 10:49 AM

Car will not start this evening even with glow plugs :-( Not sure about the valves, i'll have a look at what history i have.


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