Snapped camshaft at idle.

[Nevadan]

Well.....very stupid and difficult lesson learned. I was recharging the air conditioning system after installing a different A/C compressor and while at idle I heard a sharp clank and the engine died. I pulled the belts to access the timing belt cover and the belt was snapped. Grabbing the front cam sprocket, it just turns and can be pulled out about an inch, therefore snapped cam.

I know I'll need a new camshaft and will know more once I pull the head off next weekend. Anyone who has a cam keep this in mind as I continue the work later.

My error was in not waiting to fabricate crankshaft holding tool so I could replace the belt. That's the stupid lesson learned....patience!!!!

This is my recently acquired '85 745 wagon that is in great condition.

Patience, patience, patience.

[v8volvo]

Wow, that's the second one of those on here in the past week or two. Sorry to hear the unfortunate news.

At least it's in your hands where you'll be able to fix it. As I recall this was for sale at a used car dealer? Hate to imagine what its next fate would be if this had happened to someone who just bought it as a commuter....

Pull the cam and check for lifter damage; since it happened at low engine speed and the cam breaking acts as a safety valve of sorts, you might get lucky and get away with minimal damage.

Anyone who has been running on a belt of unknown age or unknown installation method should be taking heed now, before this turns into a full-scale epidemic...!

[745 TurboGreasel]

Anyone who has been running on a belt of unknown age or unknown installation method should be taking heed now, before this turns into a full-scale epidemic...!
+1, the crank bolt absolutely must to be tighter than anything most people have ever installed on a car. I think failed cambelt service has killed almost as many cars as cooling system/HG failure.

I weigh 150, so I stand on the end of a 2'3" lever to tighten the bolt, and use threadlocker.

Unfortunately, when a seller claims it was done, there is a real chance it was done wrong.

[Nevadan]

As I recall this was for sale at a used car dealer?

Pull the cam and check for lifter damage; since it happened at low engine speed and the cam breaking acts as a safety valve of sorts, you might get lucky and get away with minimal damage.


Yes, this was the car at the used lot in Carson City, south of Reno. And it was running soooooooo good!

I agree with you that the cam acts as a sort of shear bolt so I'm thinking there will be minimal damage.

I never thought about just removing the snapped camshaft and testing the lifters to see if the valves all travel as they are supposed to. I was going to pull the head and inspect for bent valves but may take your suggestion and wait on pulling the head. I could replace the cam, which I still need to find and will post separately in the "parts wanted" section, and run a compression test to see if all is o.k.

I did start the tear-down as if I'm going to pull the head and got the injection pump bracket bolts loose to remove the rear belt and they were quite difficult. I loosened the pump timing bolts to move the pump as far out of the way as possible but the 17mm bolts were REALLY tight. Is there a special wrench for this job? I was able to get the rear one loose but only after my top secret method of putting valve grinding compound on the face of the box end wrench to get that little bit of extra grab. I had to use a cheater bar also! I've read the method others are using to time the pump by making the adjustment at the rear sprocket but it still seems there may be minor adjustments necessary.

A few questions:

1. As mentioned above, is there a special wrench for the 17mm bolts that mount the IP bracket to the block, the ones to adjust the belt tension?

2. Is there a special 6mm allen tool to reach the IP timing bolt that's buried back between the mounting bracket and the pump?

3. Does anyone have a cam for sale?

4. Who sells fresh timing belts? Rock Auto and others have them but have they been sitting on the shelf for 20 years?

[Nevadan]

+1, the crank bolt absolutely must to be tighter than anything most people have ever installed on a car. I think failed cambelt service has killed almost as many cars as cooling system/HG failure.

I weigh 150, so I stand on the end of a 2'3" lever to tighten the bolt, and use threadlocker.

Unfortunately, when a seller claims it was done, there is a real chance it was done wrong.

After standing right next to the engine when it popped I have to agree that snapped cambelts have probably killed a lot of these engine.

I'll post a picture of the tool I made. It worked VERY well! I was able to use a huge crescent wrench that rested against the frame.

[Nevadan]

In my tear-down I found one (possibly two!) missing and one loose bolt on the injection pump head. Just FYI and a comment on the durability of these pumps.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/IPheadmissinbolts_zpsf43c0765.jpg

[ngoma]

1. As mentioned above, is there a special wrench for the 17mm bolts that mount the IP bracket to the block, the ones to adjust the belt tension?I use what I have; Craftsman combo boxend wrench. Tedious work, lots of small turns. Maybe a gearwrench ratcheting boxend wrench would help? Once I removed the fuel filter housing and wrenched from below, which seemed easier. Some hoist the IP and heavy bracket during removal with a cherry picker (helps maintain slack on the bolts) (and saves your back when lifting it out).

2. Is there a special 6mm allen tool to reach the IP timing bolt that's buried back between the mounting bracket and the pump?Ballwrench?


4. Who sells fresh timing belts? Rock Auto and others have them but have they been sitting on the shelf for 20 years?I recently bought a fresh Continental belt from gowestyautoparts.com.


You'll want to cover up those distributor valves on the IP pressure head. Wrap some tinfoil around them if you don't have correctly sized plastic caps. Important to keep foreign matter out of the fuel system.

[Nevadan]

Thanks for the reply. Got it on the IP mounting bracket bolts, that's what I'm doing as well. I might heat, bend and grind a box end wrench to get at them. Mine were either over-tightened or rust/frozen so they shouldn't be as difficult to loosen or tighten in the future.

A ballend allen will do the job on that pump bolt. I will see if I can find a torx bolt to replace it and make it easier in the future.

I've never tried GoWesty, thanks for the tip.

I did cover the IP outlets after the photo, the next day. I was so frustrated with the cam breakage I left a lot of uncovered parts overnight.

[745 TurboGreasel]

I use a 17 ratchet wrench on the pump bracket bolts, and it isn't hard. I have both flex head and regular, IIRC, I use the regular more.
the bracket is the engine lift point, so if you will be pulling that, maybe leave i ton.

For the buried allen, I use a ball ended 3/8" extension, and a regular allen socket, and it works fine.

[Nevadan]

Here's some pictures of the cam bearing and camshaft I removed yesterday.
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cambroken_zps1bfdad6e.jpg
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cambearingfromend_zps7ca83334.jpg
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cambearingfromtop_zpsc704fdb3.jpg
I'm going to remove the head today and will have a better idea if there's other damage.
If the remainder of the head appears o.k., is this repairable? Considering the lack of availability of these heads is it worth attempting a repair?
It appears the stud that's in the piece that's broken off could be removed, the threaded portion of the hole could be drilled out a little, a longer stud could be drilled and tapped into the head (below the broken off piece) where there's still about an inch of cast aluminum. Once it's all in place and the top cam bearing tightened down it may still work. Or am I hopefully dreaming?

[Nevadan]

After removing the head I've inspected the cam followers. You can't see much in the first picture, but it shows all the followers.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Camfollowers_zps29ea75d1.jpg

The next two pictures show the two followers that have the small cracks in them, follower #3 and #7, which are above cylinder's #1 and #4.
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Follower3_zpsa42fb22f.jpg
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Follower7_zpse03ea581.jpg

The bottom end is o.k. (no bent rods) since all the pistons get to the same height when turning the crank.

[Nevadan]

This unfocused picture shows the crud in the intakes. The manifold itself looked just as bad.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Intakewithcrud_zpsd4821c4d.jpg

[Nevadan]

There's also this crack in the head between the intake valve and the prechamber.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Crackbtwnvalveandprecup_zpse4d00dda.jpg

So......it WAS a good head that now needs a repair to the cam bearing base. I'll take it to a machine shop this week and see if they think the work can be done. Depending on the price and the availability of a good used head I'll make a decision about what way to go. Any input is welcome.

[v8volvo]

Ouch, that is pretty bad, I pictured just a pulled bearing cap stud but that looks like it is toast. To get that ripped cam bearing put back together at best would be lots of welding and a good line-bore, big bucks if you can find someone to do it, long odds on it being possible at all, and with that crack in addition you're better off starting over. Small cracks between the valve seats are permissible but a long crack in that location is a serious problem, that one's a goner.

On the upside, no question that crack was there before this timing belt episode occurred, and good likelihood it would have caused an issue down the road and condemned the head at that point anyway.... so at least you can reassure yourself that, other than the loss of the cam, having that motor apart would probably have been happening in the near future one way or another and you would be in the position of looking for a head sooner or later. Plus, this way you get to put it together and do the timing belt job only once -- and if it would have broken down later on due to that cracked casting, chances are it would have been in a place a lot less convenient than your own driveway! :eek:

How does the bottom end look otherwise, no scored bores or big ridge? If it ran well before this then safe to assume it's healthy but seeing a crack like that suggests it may have gotten hot or experienced a major coolant loss at some point so take a good look, with the crack there but no evidence of a blown HG could indicate it got hot quickly but not for very long which would have protected the bottom end. Sounds like all your rods are OK, given the relatively minimal lifter damage I would expect no problems down below. Those two aren't pushed up too bad.

Given the situation your easiest way forward may be to locate a complete good replacement head, give it whatever attention it needs, and bolt it on. Unfortunately with your cam gone, valvetrain components questionable after impact and the head casting shot, you don't have a lot that is useable there, so you need the whole works. Getting one complete as a package deal is probably easiest way to ensure you end up with everything you need. Might take some searching but they're out there, at least a few of us here may be able to help you out.

[745 TurboGreasel]

Yeah, that precup crack was something else, was it losing coolant at all?

for sure do not reuse the valves that cracked lifters, they like to drop a head in your motor a month or two down the line.

[v8volvo]

for sure do not reuse the valves that cracked lifters, they like to drop a head in your motor a month or two down the line.

Definitely, matter of fact I would not reuse any of the valves in that head unless there are some you are sure had no contact whatsoever, even a light kiss from a piston can cause the effect 745 describes... it's not pretty when it happens...

[Nevadan]

Thanks for the input. A picture does tell the story. I agree v8 that the head would have gone anyway. I only drove the car about 60 miles when I purchased it and there was no coolant leak or loss so the crack hadn't gone all the way through just yet.

The good news is that the bottom end is solid. The pistons all protrude the same and the cylinder walls still have some crosshatching on them. No major ridges in any of the cylinders and only slight vertical marks in cylinder #6.

#2 and #3
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cylinders2and3_zpsf08458de.jpg

#1
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cylinder1_zps8b6f8860.jpg

#6
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cylinder6_zps5600a62b.jpg

So now my search for a complete head continues.

Anders if you're looking at this I may still want the cam. I'm looking at an N/A head that needs the cam. I'll PM you once I have a little more data.

[745 TurboGreasel]

#3 I presume precup looks to have been coming loose, and starting to eat the piston too.
I would not be surprised if there are marks on the precups where they were machined along with the head, removing the stickout that is supposed to hold them in place.

[Nevadan]

The prechamber wasn't "loose" as it still required a punch to tap it out and there was no visible mark on the piston, nor was the gasket deformed from any prechamber movement. See the photos for the extent of the crack. It does not extend into the exhaust port. I think I'll save this head for future welding and machining work. There's a guy here who welded and machined a prechamber: http://picasaweb.google.com/itzdshtz/VanagonSyncroProject02#5073815251611814002. You can tell from his blog that he has the welding and machining equipment to do the work, but at least there's proof it has been done with good results. I also have a 2.0TD that had the cracks between the valves welded and machined, it was done before I purchased the head, but again, at least I know it was done.
Considering the rarity of the head and the fact that it isn't warped I'll put it on my shelf. See the next post for the ripped off cam bearing cap base.

From the prechamber side:
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Precupcrack_zpsbb930ff3.jpg
From the exhaust port side:
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Exhaustcrack_zps5ca20248.jpg

[Nevadan]

So here's some pictures of the cam bearing cap mount that was ripped off. I cut the broken cam so I could insert it into the cam bearing to test the fit. I also clamped the cap onto the base.

Picture without the cam from the front of the engine:http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cambearing1_zpsc6b8ff33.jpg

Picture with the cam inserted half way viewed from the rear of the engine:http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cambearing2_zps8c4c6a07.jpg

Picture with the cam in place viewed from the rear of the engine:http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cambearing3_zps5a519c6f.jpg

As mentioned previously I'm thinking a longer stud could be bored and tapped into the head itself (below the broken off piece where there's about 1" of cast aluminum), then when the nut pulls the bearing cap down it would hold the broken piece into position. The majority of the force on the bearing is pushing up into the bearing cap. I'm just throwing ideas out there as this head will be on my "spares" shelf, and may only get used if we live in the world of "Mad Max" or "Book of Eli", but I like to have my options.

[Nevadan]

So I put on a new head and was going to start the car up. Prior to starting I wanted to prime the pump and get the oil circulating so ...... before I put the injectors in I spun the engine over with the starter until the oil pressure light went out. This took about 3 cycles of 30-45 seconds each. I put the injectors in and when installing the injection lines I dropped one of the injector pipe rubber dampners on the ground. When I went under the car to retrieve it there was a big pool of oil under the crank pulley. I only had time to pull the timing belt cover and the timing belt was soaked in oil.

I'll pull the valve cover, and if necessary the rest of the belts and crank pulley next weekend and see what happened. There's only a few places it could be leaking: valve cover gasket (it's the rubber/metal one piece and maybe I didn't get the front rubber piece in place), the cam seal (it's new and didn't appear to be leaking from there since I could see the seal through the sheetmetal cover) and the main crank seal (I'm thinking it's probably this since the seal didn't seem to go in far enough even though it bottomed out against its seat).

When I purchased the crank seal I purchased two of them in case I destroyed one on installation. The one I put in was a little thicker than the one I saved, probably a little over 1/4 inch. The one I saved was a little under 1/4. After pressing it into place the outer lip didn't seem to seal tight on the shaft. It also may be that I pushed the seal in to far and the seal lip that goes towards the crankshaft has rolled back and just will not seal.

Any other ideas prior to me pulling this apart next weekend?

[745 TurboGreasel]

If you have the rubber/metal valve cover gasket, all the studs need to be screwed all the way in to the shoulder, or they keep the corner of the VC up, and all your oil dumps out.
i think sometimes the cork gaskets have studs that don't have a shoulder.

[v8volvo]

No fun, sorry to hear about that.

Leak from the valve cover should be pretty obvious. Look behind the T-belt cover and see if it's wet on the front of the head. Unfortunately given the amount of oil you describe and the conditions in which it emerged I doubt this is the source.

Hate to say it but if the whole belt is wet then my money would be on the crank seal. I actually never replace those seals preemptively -- with VAG motors, just about the only times I ever see seal leaks are where one has been replaced! :p Sounds like oil's running out of there and pooling up in the bottom of the timing belt....

Could you have put a nick in the seal bore when pulling the old seal out? Won't be a fun thought but unless you find another source for the leak I would pull all the T-belt components off again, pull off crank cog and yank seal, and take a good look in there. What did you use to install the seal?

At least you know you'll get a chance to really nail the t-belt procedure down, after doing it a second time.... ;)

[Nevadan]

I also doubt it's the valve cover gasket, just hoping (praying??) for a quick fix.

Now that I have the proper tools and understand the process it will be much easier this time. Just having all the bolts and fasteners cleaned and lubricated will save about 50% of the time.

I pressed the seal in with a home-made tool: a piece if PVC pipe that was a perfect fit both inside and outside diameter, a large flat washer and the crank bolt. It worked beautifully.

I'm going to measure the depth of the seal "seat" and see if I just pushed it in to far, collapsing the seal lip on the engine side. I'm also going to use the "thinner" seal I have as a spare. I will definitely inspect the seal "seat" upon removal.

When I installed this leaking seal I looked in there and all seemed fine. It was difficult to view, even with the radiator removed but it looked o.k. When I removed the old original seal I'm fairly certain I did not scar the seal "seat" since I was able to grab the seal without touching the aluminum part of the "seat".

It's always easer to make the right decision looking back!!! One of my favorite sayings when it comes to decision making: "We look through this tiny little peephole up front and have an 8 foot rearview mirror! And then the justification: The reason I changed it is there was some dried oil/dirt in that general area as well as on that quarter-moon shaped aluminum piece below the crank pulley.

[Nevadan]

Note to self and others: The firing sequence (firing order) in the Chilton manual is NOT correct. It says: 1,5,3,6,4,2. The correct sequence, per Mr. v8volvo, as posted on this site is: 1,5,3,6,2,4.

After mounting the head and turning the IP as far away from the head as possible the fuel delivery pipes/tubes didn't mate up very well. I couldn't find the firing sequence in the Green Books I have but I had the Chilton manual. That manual is WRONG and cost me about two hours wasted time. Since the fuel pipe for #4 cylinder was the tightest fit I started lining everything up with that one and of course it threw everything else off. I didn't bend any of the pipes but it was quite a maze trying to make them fit. Even with the correct firing sequence it still took a while to get them all in there and the vibration dampers in place.

Once all the lines are in place it looks SO simple. Kudo's to the engineers for making all that fit in such a tight space.

[745 TurboGreasel]

I leave them clamped together as a unit:p

[Nevadan]

I have the correct 17mm injector and fuel line wrench coming from ZDMAK Tools so I can leave them clamped together in the future. That was a real waste of time and I won't repeat it again. On my 1.6 I test the glow plugs by removing the injectors and just looking at them; being able to remove the fuel pipes as a unit is part of the process.

A big "thank you" to the guys on this site for the recommendation to rotate the injection pump away from the head and perform the pump timing with the camshaft sprocket. It leaves plenty of room to access the injectors and just enough room to get at the glow plugs. This post #16 from v8volvo is the BEST description of how to perform the pump timing: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?t=930&page=2

[Nevadan]

I replaced the front crankshaft seal this past weekend in an attempt to solve the oil leak and it turns out even though the seal wasn't the correct fit the leak was elsewhere, see the details below. Since I took pictures during the job I'm posting it here since it is something that should be noted.

Per this picture you can see the three different seals I was working with. The two on the right are the same 10mm width, one of them has the rubber coating on the outside of the entire seal. The one on the left is the 8mm deep seal. I don't have a photo of the original thinner stock seal I removed, but it was probably 8mm.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranksealswidth_zpse6d5a0c9.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranksealswidth_zpse6d5a0c9.jpg.html)

The next two photo's show the two different diameters at the crankshaft nose. The 10mm seal would not seat deep enough to form a tight seal on the outer seal lip. This is just the dust seal but I thought it was causing the leak.
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Crankseallip2_zps0dcf0395.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Crankseallip2_zps0dcf0395.jpg.html)

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Crankseallip1_zps24a37992.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Crankseallip1_zps24a37992.jpg.html)

Here's the "tool" I used to install the new seal.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranksealinstalltool_zpse10c5413.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranksealinstalltool_zpse10c5413.jpg.html)

And here's the seal after installation. You can see the outer seal lip is on the thicker diameter portion of the crankshaft. The 10mm seal was still on the small diameter part of the shaft.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranksealinplace_zps8467db52.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranksealinplace_zps8467db52.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

Here's my "crank holding tool" in action. The 16" adjustable wrench sits perfectly on the main body frame.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranktoolinplace_zps2bb44248.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranktoolinplace_zps2bb44248.jpg.html)

Here's the rear cam sprocket bolt wrench I made as I disassembled and assembled this several times prior to getting everything running.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Rearcamsprkttool2_zps55616a32.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Rearcamsprkttool2_zps55616a32.jpg.html)

Rothenbacher crankshaft timing sprocket. I purchased this for $7.00 as a spare but did not use it. I know his reputation but I have gotten some good useable products from him and this sprocket looks very good. I will likely use it on my 2.0 once I get around to that project.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranktimingsprocket2_zps85782a49.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Cranktimingsprocket2_zps85782a49.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

And now the rest of the story. After replacing the front crank seal and putting everything back together I started the engine and it sounded pretty good. I looked under the car and oil was pouring out from the front and the real of the engine! I thought it might be the camshaft seals, even though they were both new on a newly rebuilt head. I removed the inner front metal belt shield and found an un-capped/un-plugged oil passage hole. Using a mirror I found an identical hole on the back of the head. I drove around town (in a different vehicle!) looking for a plug with the proper thread and ended up finding a 1/16" pipe plug a Summit. I completely missed these holes when I installed everything on the head, thinking they were mounting holes for a bracket or something!!!!! The solution is ALWAYS simpler than originally suspected.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Oilpassageplug_zpsa5d96e74.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Oilpassageplug_zpsa5d96e74.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

I haven't driven the car yet but the engine sounds strong. The head was rebuilt by Portland Aluminum Heads (Thanks Anders!!) and they did some quality work (except for the oil port plugs, but I'm not accusing them). During the process I probably timed the engine 10 times so I fully understand how to do it. I also installed a block heater, transmission mount, driver's side engine mount (I can't find a passenger side mount and will likely get one from Volvo), remote oil cooler (in addition to the stock oil-to-water cooler/heater. I'll get pictures of this once it's all connected), blocked off the EGR exhaust outlet at the manifold, rebuilt the entire engine bay wiring harness, bypassed the altitude compensation mechanism, cleaned the injectors (I'll install new nozzles soon), replaced the airbox thermostat, cleaned the "fuzz" from the exterior of the radiator, replaced all the belts, etc, etc, etc. It was a good learning experience and I feel like I understand this engine now.

[anders]

Wow, you have done lots of work. I will definitely need to watch out for those plugs on the next head I send out, I would of installed it just as you had and had the oil leak, very good to know.
One good thing about all the time you put into it is that you will know how everything is assembled, you should feel more comfortable driving it on trips knowing the ins and outs of the motor and engine bay.

[ngoma]

That's some list! Are you going to use Monark injector nozzles? Do you have a pop tester?

[Nevadan]

Wow, you have done lots of work. I will definitely need to watch out for those plugs on the next head I send out, I would of installed it just as you had and had the oil leak, very good to know.
One good thing about all the time you put into it is that you will know how everything is assembled, you should feel more comfortable driving it on trips knowing the ins and outs of the motor and engine bay.

It must have been an oversight on their part but I'm so happy with the quality of their work I have no complaints.

I have total confidence in the engine now. I'll put it on the road this weekend and see how it runs!

[Nevadan]

That's some list! Are you going to use Monark injector nozzles? Do you have a pop tester?

I called Kaia at Mercedes Source and she said they couldn't get the Monark nozzles anymore. I didn't push her too hard but I found a Chinese source, Pyder Power, for the Bosch equivalent to the Monark nozzle. The stock Bosch DNO SD 293 nozzle part number is 0434 250 103. The Bosch number for the Monark nozzle 039 305 138 is 0434 250 138.

The Pyder Power nozzles are shown here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fuel-Injector-Nozzle-0-434-250-138-0434250138-DN0SD273-MOQ-6-PCS/507090947.html

They also have the stock 0434 250 103 nozzles available.

I'm going to order 15 nozzles (4 for my 1.6, 5 for my 2.0, and 6 for my 2.4) for $105 including shipping and see how they work. The price is worth the risk and once I get them installed I'll post here.

I do have a good homemade pop tester with a 12" gauge face! I'll post a picture of it here after I do some work this weekend. To get my D24T running I just pulled all the nozzles apart, cleaned them and adjusted the pressure to 2000 - 2200 psi. It wasn't exact but I cleaned up the peeing/leaking nozzles. They don't have perfect spray patterns but they all do spray now and will be good enough until I get the above nozzles.

[ngoma]

Kaia at Mercedes Source supplied us a small kit of most useful shims, but we had best luck getting the Monarks from Sean Watts at Hessian Imports.

http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=550

Anyway, we will be interested to see results from the Pyder Power nozzles, can't complain about the price!

[Nevadan]

One of the administrator's suggested moving this to a new thread. I agree, move it if you can.

Now that the engine sounds good I'm moving on to the clutch. I took several pictures that will be useful to me in the future and to others as well. There will be a few questions scattered in the following posts.

This first picture shows the pressure plate with the Volvo and Fichel-Sachs part numbers on it. Now that it's posted I see it's not so easy to read. The numbers are, Volvo 1340549, Sachs 043082101007.
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pressureplate_zpsdaeccb72.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pressureplate_zpsdaeccb72.jpg.html)

This picture shows the pressure plate springs with what appears to be a significant amount of wear. Anyone have any input on the useability of this? The Sachs part number is visible in this picture.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pressureplatesprings_zps775f3b92.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pressureplatesprings_zps775f3b92.jpg.html)

This one shows the clutch disk with the part numbers. The Volvo part number is 1220942.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchdisk2_zpsce20f885.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchdisk2_zpsce20f885.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

This one shows the other side of the clutch disk with the splines and spring setup. I've never seen a disk with this type of spring setup. Since I can't seem to find this exact one, will the non-Sachs disks work that don't have this spring setup. I can get them from O'Riley, Autozone or AutohausAZ. There is actually one from AutohausAZ that is the correct one but it's $215.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchdisk_zps5d1466dd.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchdisk_zps5d1466dd.jpg.html)

Next are the throw-out bearing:
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/TObearing2_zps68322f08.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/TObearing2_zps68322f08.jpg.html)

This one shows the wear on the bearing that corresponds to the wear on the pressure plate springs. The bearing still appears to be in good condition; it turns freely and has no wear other than on the contact surface with the pressure plate. Is it reusable? I think it is, or at least to be saved for future use.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/TObearing_zps710cafdc.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/TObearing_zps710cafdc.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

Here's one of the pilot bearing. Part number from various sites is Kolb 046105313D. Also National F85706. I have not verified the fit on either of these bearings but I will once one of them arrives.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearing_zps520341ea.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearing_zps520341ea.jpg.html)

And here's the end of the tranny shaft that rides in the pilot bearing. It has a sleeve over the shaft. Both the sleeve and the pilot bearing appear to be in good condition. Depending on what "clutch kit" or other parts I purchase I might reuse them. I did not research a part number for the sleeve but if someone has it could you please post it here to keep this all in one place.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Trannyshaftsleeve_zps97bab231.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Trannyshaftsleeve_zps97bab231.jpg.html)

[v8volvo]

Wow, impressive progress, you are really blasting through this thing. What made you take the trans off, was the clutch slipping or any other symptoms? Or just to check it out?

I've reused the throwout bearings before -- with success -- though with the amount of wear on the fingers of your diaphragm I wonder if yours may not be 100%. Generally Volvos seem to come with terrific bearings everywhere and bearing failures are pretty unusual. I've got a hunch that this might be because Volvo's car business originally began life as a division of the SKF bearing company -- maybe some of that still runs in the company's blood. Generously-sized, well-designed bearings seem to be the norm -- many of them still supplied by SKF as the OEM. ;)

Watch out on the pilot bearings though -- those are a spot for caution on these because the OEM bearing is NLA from Volvo, and all the aftermarket bearings, the Kolb one included, are a different design with a crappy plastic needle cage and no grease seal (aka junk!). The OEM bearing is made by INA. Even the OEM one isn't the most robust -- perhaps because it's the only bearing on the car that was specced not by Volvo itself, but by VAG.... My hunch anyway. (Compare the little open needle pilot bearing for a D24/T to the large, sealed ball bearing used in a redblock gasser Volvo and you'll see the difference!)

See pictures for comparison:

OEM INA w/ grease seal:
http://imageshack.us/a/img407/9895/inad24pilotbrg.jpg

Aftermarket Kolb without seal:
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/922/d24kolbpilotbrg.jpg

Don't put the crappy kind in, you will regret it! Volvo's decision to discontinue selling the OE bearing is unfortunate... I'm working on a guy's 745 now that had the pilot bearing implode and needs a new one, so I got to work last week on finding a way to get the good bearings. Fortunately I was lucky to get in touch with a source that has access to 19 of them, at $10 apiece plus shipping, I have to order at least 2. They won't come in a Volvo box, but they're the same INA part that Volvo sells in its own package. :)

Edit - INA number is F-85706, same as your National number, maybe the National product is a reboxed INA too?

I'll be putting together a group order for these, in case anyone else here wants one -- I'll start a thread in the Powertrain section about it shortly, hoping to put in the order this week.

[Nevadan]

I decided to replace the clutch based on a simple test, which now I'm not certain was accurate. I had the car on jack-stands and put it in gear (1st then 2nd then 3rd) then stepped on the brake. The rear wheels stopped but the engine was still turning and there was that "clutch slipping" sound. I repeated the same test after installing the new clutch and the rear wheels still turned, although it took a little more power to do so (Both tests were performed at under 1,500 rpm's). It seems the engine should stall so I'm not sure what I'm overlooking here. I also just wanted to inspect the clutch since the car has 203,000 miles on it and it felt soft when I drove it home.

I need to put in a new clutch cable also since the original doesn't appear to hold correctly. Someone put a small hose clamp on the cable at the base of the adjuster to hold it in place.

I came to the same conclusion on the pilot bearing and put the original one back in after cleaning and greasing it. I'm going to post additional photos on my job following this post. I was able to order a "National" bearing from O'Rielly but it hasn't come in yet. They said it would take 10 days and it was a "factory" order, ie. they had to manufacture the thing. When it arrives I'll compare the two and post here. If it's not the same I'll get one of those on a group buy.

[Nevadan]

So I "stole" the plates off my '85 Jetta and took my 745 out for a 30 mile drive to burn the oil off the manifolds and see how it ran and I was impressed! It was at night and initially I was leaving quite a bit of smoke under acceleration but it cleared up a little towards the end of the test. I'll adjust the fuel screw and LDA settings once I put my new nozzles in this weekend.

Here's the update on the clutch replacement.

Per v8volvo, his suggestion about the pilot bearing is correct. Here's the two pictures I took of the original INA and the "replacement" Kolb. The stock INA part number is clearly visible as well as the seal that v8volvo mentioned. After cleaning the original I just greased it and put it back in.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearing_zps0f409318.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearing_zps0f409318.jpg.html)

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearingscomparison_zpsdc3baaa4.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearingscomparison_zpsdc3baaa4.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

Here's the "modified" clutch alignment tool made with painter's masking tape to make the alignment tool fit the pilot needle bearing. Hey, it worked!

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchalignmenttool_zps6e13f75b.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchalignmenttool_zps6e13f75b.jpg.html)

And here's the pilot bearing puller I got from Harbor Freight. It worked VERY well and the cost for the kit with four different sized pullers was $70.00.
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearingpuller_zpse2142305.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Pilotbearingpuller_zpse2142305.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

After acquiring a clutch kit from Autozone, O'Riely (AP pressure plate with Valeo disk) and AutohausAZ (Sachs) I decided to go with the Sachs pressure plate and disk and returned the other two.

Here's the Sachs and Valeo disks side by side. The Sachs disk is like the original disk I removed which has the extra "layer" of small springs. I'm not sure how important that is and I'm sure the Valeo disk would have worked.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/ClutchdiskSachsandValeo2_zps86fa128a.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/ClutchdiskSachsandValeo2_zps86fa128a.jpg.html)

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/ClutchdiskSachsandValeo_zps4fd9e953.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/ClutchdiskSachsandValeo_zps4fd9e953.jpg.html)

Thickness compared to original Sachs disk:

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/P4240501_zps097f6ab6.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/P4240501_zps097f6ab6.jpg.html)

[Nevadan]

This picture shows the two pins on the flywheel that may serve a purpose, but I don't know what it is; maybe to hold the pressure plate in position prior to installing the alignment tool. The original Sachs pressure plate was able to fit around these pins. The replacement Sachs as well as the AP plate required a small amount of grinding to make room for the pins. I thought about removing or cutting off the pins but just ground the plate instead.

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Flywheelpins_zps7822060a.jpg (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/JDinReno/media/1985%20Volvo%20740/Flywheelpins_zps7822060a.jpg.html)

[v8volvo]

What is the Sachs part number for the friction disc? I haven't been able to find one from any of the suppliers I have tried.... I used to be able to get the complete Sachs kit, part # 271265, but can't get it anymore.

About your findings performing your power-brake test -- did you have someone watching both rear wheels? Volvos use a very heavy brake bias towards the front and a dual-circuit hydraulic system where each rear break is on a separate circuit, which depending on the condition of everything can lead to a little more application force on one wheel than on the other -- plus you have the open differential which, in my cars at least, always seems to have a noticeable bias towards the right side rear wheel. I wonder if the scraping sound you heard was one rear wheel still spinning?

[745 TurboGreasel]

I'd be worried if I couldn't stall the car in every gear using the brakes.

I know Volvo uses some flywheels with a flat surface, and some have a dished grind. If you use the wrong parts, or a machine shop has ground your dished flywheel flat, there isn't enough surface area, and it slips.
To me, this disc looks burnt to hell in one ring, and new in the rest?
http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x411/JDinReno/1985%20Volvo%20740/Clutchdisk_zps5d1466dd.jpg
I think I have a Sachs disc I can still read the numbers on, I'll dig that up later.

Where was the red powdered metal coming from?

[Nevadan]

I'm going to create a new thread for the clutch job and try and summarize everything there. The thread is here: http://www.d24t.com/showthread.php?p=6868#post6868

[petercz]

And this is my camshaft... I was driving down the highway 80mph when it happened:(

http://imageshack.us/a/img580/4496/4sis.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/580/4sis.jpg/) http://imageshack.us/a/img545/9194/hgaa.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/545/hgaa.jpg/) http://imageshack.us/a/img854/1457/72d2.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/72d2.jpg/) http://imageshack.us/a/img542/5834/e718.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/542/e718.jpg/) http://imageshack.us/a/img835/342/eenk.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/eenk.jpg/)

[Nevadan]

Ouch!!!! I know the feeling.

So I'll be the first to ask: What caused it and why?

[petercz]

I don't know why, but I suspect the crank pulley came loose:confused:

[petercz]

Yeah "new" engine :cool:
http://imageshack.us/a/img209/4701/3y3v.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/3y3v.jpg/) http://imageshack.us/a/img96/3794/le1i.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/96/le1i.jpg/)

[jbg]

That engine looks great, very clean! :cool:

[Nevadan]

Nice and clean, it looks great!

[RedArrow]

I called Kaia at Mercedes Source and she said they couldn't get the Monark nozzles anymore. I didn't push her too hard but I found a Chinese source, Pyder Power, for the Bosch equivalent to the Monark nozzle. The stock Bosch DNO SD 293 nozzle part number is 0434 250 103. The Bosch number for the Monark nozzle 039 305 138 is 0434 250 138.

The Pyder Power nozzles are shown here: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Fuel-Injector-Nozzle-0-434-250-138-0434250138-DN0SD273-MOQ-6-PCS/507090947.html

They also have the stock 0434 250 103 nozzles available.

I'm going to order 15 nozzles (4 for my 1.6, 5 for my 2.0, and 6 for my 2.4) for $105 including shipping and see how they work. The price is worth the risk and once I get them installed I'll post here.

I do have a good homemade pop tester with a 12" gauge face! I'll post a picture of it here after I do some work this weekend. To get my D24T running I just pulled all the nozzles apart, cleaned them and adjusted the pressure to 2000 - 2200 psi. It wasn't exact but I cleaned up the peeing/leaking nozzles. They don't have perfect spray patterns but they all do spray now and will be good enough until I get the above nozzles.

Nevadan, after all this time (and miles), how would you rate those cheap nozzles? Were they crap or functioning as they should?

[Nevadan]

The nozzles I ended up getting turned out to be Bosch original equipment. They were stamped "made in France". That may or may not be the actual site of manufacture but that's what was on them.

I have put about 15,000 miles on the car (it's not my main vehicle) and it runs excellently.

J.D.

[RedArrow]

Great. And they have 920 of them in stock now. Weird.