rear-axle rebuild volvo>>jeep cherokee I

[240diesel]

A few weeks ago i wanted to change my rear-axel to a different ratio.(3.54 in stead of my 3.73)Suprisingly I had already a 3.54 ratio but I did find out when the axle already was removed from my ’78 245 diesel &^&(%#$#@!!
I wanted the ratio “longer” because I get crazy from the dieselsounds on the highway.It’s running at 2500rpm with a speed of 100KM/hr.So what to do now???On the different fora I already red some info about the DANA 30 volvo uses.I borrowd a complete set of ring and pinion from a 4x4 shop nearby and also got some axles for free from a member of the dutch Volvo 240 forum. With that stuff I began to puzzle but it didn’t appear to fit one way or another.Volvo doesn’t use the DANA stuff in the way Jeep does I’m afraid……Seems that Volvo uses the Housing/pumpkin like DANA 30 and the pinion in dana 35 style / length.There are differences in many ways so I gave up the investigations…
But I didn’t gave up the wish of a longer ratio, I also red that DANA offers a ratio of 3,07:1 and even under 3.07!!!!So I wanted a 3.07 ratio and diceded to do a axle re-tube as they name it in 4x4 world.In the story below I place some pictures and a little description .I will not claim to be the inventor, a lot of info I got from the WWW so now it’s the time to contribute some myself I think.



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA060058.jpg



5 axles, i bought another one from Jeep Cherokee last week, that makes 6!!That one has already a 3.07 ratio and an LSD diff. standard “on board”
-jeep cherokee 3,55
-volvo 3,54 2X
-volvo 3,74 2X



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA060059.jpg


This is the inside of the Jeep DANA35 axle with a ratio 3,55 i borrowed the axle and would place the ring and pinion in it of 3.07 i also borrowed.But i (again) red the carrierbreak of a DANA35 is 3.33<break>3.55 so i had to have an other carrier and make all adjustments from zero.That time i could buy an axle with a ratio of 3.07 alrady installed and also LSD.
Carrierbreak means that one carrier cannot hold al gears/rings available for that axle.So DANA makes 2 carriers to fit either the lower or the higher gears (rings).For DANA30 / Volvo the break is 3,54<break>3.74.





http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA060063.jpg






The axles togheter , above the jeep under the volvo



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130066.jpg




The Volvo axle is already demolished, i grinded out the plug-welds to keep the axletube free from damage and lost the pumpkin.




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130067.jpg



Pumpkin /housing comparison; the lenght coversurface-pinionfront is the same, the width is 40mm smaller from a Volvo axle.



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130069.jpg




A plasmacutter suits fine to remove the 3 plugwelds per side wich holds the axletubes from turning.With this method I loose the jeep-tubes but I don’t need them anymore…..




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130071.jpg




Pressing out the tubes after cutting the welds,look securely for burrs which can damage your bore in the pumpkin, first press for 3-4 mm, examin and grind burrs if necessary .




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130071.jpg




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130072.jpg




Measuring from the axle-angle compared to the coversurface is importand to get a good pinionangle later with the new axle under the car.A good set of measure-tools is very handy to get the exact angle.




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130075.jpg

[240diesel]

This is a story of 3 parts , now you are entering part 2

While measuring all things twice or more, i saw that the left volvo-axle won’t get deep enough into the carrier, it was hold by the bearing-hole so I had to cut that axle for some mm outwards on the lathe.




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130077.jpg



The naked assembly of axle innerpieces to measure and measure and and…..




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130078.jpg




After signing Lines to the axletubes wich hold the right angle and a corresponding sign on the pumpkin i pressed the Volvo tubes into the DANA 35 pumpkin.Before i made a pipe on the lathe that exactly fits between the carrierbearingsurfaces in the pumpkin to prevent collapsion of the pumpkin while pressing with a unknow(at that time) pressure.Appears to be about 20 tonnes or so.Also I fitted a smaller pipe in the axletube to prevent the assembly from making an angle outwards of the centerline due to the pressingforce.I only have one change to do so better be sure.To make a secure connection I also used green loctite for maximum strength.



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA130079.jpg




Pressing in the second tube




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA140080.jpg




Plugwelding of the tubes to the pumpkin, it’s more to secure the fitting than making the axle stronger than it already is by the pressfit .I welded with little amps. To prevent the green loctite from coming loose and also not to let the tube warp so destroying the alignment!




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA140083.jpg




Because i use already a electronic speedsignal i welded in a tube to hold the sensor reading the ringgearteeth.



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA140082.jpg



Testing the signal while turning the ringgear




http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/PA140086.jpg




If you refer to page 234 from your camera-manual you will see that camera’s don’t like sandblasting so I only took a picture of the artist doing the job………I will continu this story later when I put the axle togheter and mounted it under the car.
Sorry fot inperfect English,normally I try to speak dutch

UPDATE


After sandblasting the axle , trailingarms, dustcovers and rod i puted on 2 layers of paint.


http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA200094.jpg

What drys more nice then a sunshine in “spring”……….

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA210097.jpg

Look-trough axletube >> pumpkin >> axletube

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA210099.jpg

[240diesel]

This is a story of 3 parts, now you enter part 3

Picture of the yoke waiting for the u-joint of the oiginal Volvo driveshaft (without flange)


http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA210098.jpg


While demounting the end-flange of the driveshaft one of the needlebearingcaps was broken so i had to replace the u-joint and bought it from the local 4x4 shop along with the pinionseal.It’s my luck that Volvo and Jeep both use DANA/SPICER rearaxles as wel as shafts so it’s easy to “combine both worlds” The owner of the 4x4 shop likes the build, it’s not often that people buy parts fot their Volvo at his shop…………



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA200096.jpg


After adjusting the diff, the final shafts can be mounted with bearings and seals.I mention the diff, adjustment like it’s a small detail but that isn’t!!!!! On the WWW there’s a very helpful article about setting up gears.You “should” read it it’s very good written and illustrated;

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA260101.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA260100.jpg

Picture of the pipe wich holds the speedo-sensor later when the axle is completed.I applied some kit for safety to be sure the weld won’t leak.



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA260102.jpg


Oh, there must be oil in it before i forget….The guy from the 4x4 told me to use 90W140 oil with LS specification and also a addition of Kendall friction-modifier for the LSD plates.Otherwise the plates will proberly shatter and be worn.



http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA270108.jpg

Finally D-day (not Decision-day like in june 1944 but Dana-day this time).The axle can be placed under the car.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA270103.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA270104.jpg

Detail from the new driveshaft-connection;

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r66/240diesel/d24tic/PA270107.jpg


After a lot of reading,working and thinking i could make my testdrive.I never knew that the 240 makes so much wind-noise at 120KM/hour.(while the car is perfectly aerodynamic!!!)Seriously the car is much more silent the enginerevving is about 350 rpm less and the axle itself is perfectly quiet!My familymembers a satisfied to because 2 of them have “travel-sickness” and hated the turboboost.That makes them sick.Now the car becomes more lazy and quiet so everybody is happy.

[Jason]

Jan, great write up with great pictures! The english is a little shaky but the pictures make up for it.

Jason

[240diesel]

thanks Jason,

The more i post, the better i will learn to write in english (i hope).......

[nick]

Thanks for the great information! I would really like to put a taller gear in my car. I have a 3.54 now, It would be great to move to the 2.9s or low 3s for improve fuel economy.

Did you notice any change in fuel economy after the swap?

[240diesel]

Hello Nick,

Thanks for the compliments, i can not figure out if there's any decrease in fuelconsumption. I drive only 5000KM/year under different circumstances.
I love the soundreduction! The sound with 120KM/hour was killing me.....