View Full Version : What to look for in a used D24T
I've located a 760 Turbo Diesel in a local salvage yard and am considering getting the engine/transmission to put in a 240.
Edit: I've decided that a 7/9-series car would be a better car to convert. See posts below.
The car looks to be well taken care of, especially for its age, and I'm wondering if the engine may be usable as-is, or would be with some work.
As an initial test, I took a large ratchet and socket out and was able to turn the engine over by hand. I could feel a compression stroke ever 60-degrees or so and all of them felt more-or-less the same. I realize this isn't a substitute for a proper compression test, but at least it verified that it has compression. Of course, it still had its timing belt on it.
Does anyone have any other tips to get an idea of the engine's condition? If I bought it from the yard, I could get a warranty and return it if something is too far gone.
Also, from my understanding, the M46 bellhousings are different from a 240 to a 760, but it sounds possible to use the the D24T bellhousing in a 240 and to my way of thinking, the less canted engine mounting would be preferable and would afford a better fit with a turbo. I know some motor mount work may be required.
If I get the 760 M46, I could convert the cable clutch over to hydraulic and swap out the shifter cage for the right one.
I've got a lot of experience with gas Volvos, but other than owning a '78 Rabbit diesel when I was in college, I'm sort of out of my element with diesels.
Thanks!
I also know where there is a complete '82 240 that I could get parts from. I just need to know what to get from each car to put the D24T in a 240.
Thanks!
Jason
03-14-2012, 10:19 AM
Other than doing an actual comrpession test, then starting it up to see/hear how it runs there isn't much else you can do visually. Pretty much it all hinges on compression and the condition of the head gasket. These engines seldom show any wear on the lower end bearings. If its possible to do a compression test that would be your best bet to get an idea of engine condition. If it is low you could also pull the valve cover and just check to see if the valves all have clearence. Unless you found one that was actually treated well with regular oil changes chances are its half worn out or better. If it was in good running condition its doubtfull it would have ended up in the salvage yard.
The bellhousings are different, though I dont know if the engine will fit in the 2xx in the same straight up orientation found in the 7xx series. The whole reason they were tilted more in the 2xx series cars was so they could fit under the hood.
Jason
Thanks, Jason.
This car looks to be fairly well taken care of. I've seen enough junkyard cars to get an idea of when someone had a clue about taking care of a vehicle. Looking under the valve cover, I don't see a lot of gunk/sludge and the engine compartment is fairly clean as well. The interior was clean too.
One never knows why a vehicle was parked, or sold as in this case. People stop driving cars for all sorts of reasons. I once bought an '82 260 that only had 70K on it because it was the wife's car and one day it wouldn't start (dead battery) so she drove their other car. Her husband worked offshore and his honey do list was always too long to get to the car, so it sat around for about ten years until I found it on Craigslist
One thing that I noticed is that the wing harness suffers from wire rot as do most of the pre-'88 cars, so that may have been a factor in why it wasn't driven any more, specifically the glow plug relay's wiring was shot.
I am curious to know if I can use the 760 bellhousing in a 240. A fair number of guys vertically mount Volvo gas engines the 240's to get more room for the turbo/piping, so I'm thinking it may work.
anders
03-15-2012, 05:58 AM
If the wrecking yard would let you fire it up there that would be a plus. As for installing the D24T in the 240 with the 7xx bellhousing, I have not done it myself but memeber Slodbodan has I believe. If it was me I would get the engine/trans combo and freshen up the engine before installing it in the 240. As Jason said the lower ends don't get wear on them ( at least the 5 that I pulled apart) and the cylinder walls seem to be pretty tough. I would rebuild the head, re-ring it and install new rod bearings. What year is the the car with the D24T? From my findings it seems that the Pre-EGR engines are always in better shape (83 and 84 I think).
If the wrecking yard would let you fire it up there that would be a plus......What year is the the car with the D24T? From my findings it seems that the Pre-EGR engines are always in better shape (83 and 84 I think).
Unfortunately, firing up the engine in the yard isn't a possibility. I can get it with a 30-day warranty however.
The car is an '83 760.
I figured that I could yank the engine with the cross member and transmission and then fab up some sort of stand to hold the tranny up and test run it. It wouldn't be much work to come up with something for a test run. Something sort of like what this guy did would be possible as well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tT9XE9Wl-JE&feature=related
anders
03-15-2012, 09:29 AM
What about buying the whole car if it's in good shape?
They won't sell the whole car.
Update:
I drove back over to the yard on Sunday and discovered that someone had removed the turbo from the engine, but everything else was there, so I pulled it from the car and also got the transmission, interior console shifter bits, cross-members and M46. I need to go back and pull the drive shaft and pedal cluster.
At this yard, when on pulls an engine, it includes everything from fan to firewall, I snagged a Garrett T3 off an '88 760 Turbo gasser. I know this isn't an exact match for the turbo on the D24T, but since I got it at no additional charge, I figured that I would get it and use it on one of my gassers if nothing else. I'm not sure who would have removed it, but I suspect it was someone who was interested in a turbo, not necessarily one for a D24T as they are pretty rare.
Anyway, the T3 that I got doesn't match the flange for the D24T, but I've figured out a way around that. I don't know the specs for the D24T turbo, but the T3 I got is a 42/46 I believe.
As much as I hate M46's, I got the tranny as well. If I get it going and use the engine, I'll swap over to a T-5 at some point. I figured it was worth getting just for the bellhousing.
The plan is to swap the engine into a '92 960 that I bought that has a bum motor. The car is really nice, and after considering it, the D24T would go into it with much more ease than fitting it into a 240, especially since I don't have a spare 240 that needs a motor now. Additionally, fitting a '92+ 7/940 intercooler setup should be straightforward.
Here are some photos, sorry that they are sort of large:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/2012-03-18161831.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/2012-03-19151410.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20965/IMG_8279.jpg
ngoma
03-19-2012, 10:19 PM
The plan is to swap the engine into a '92 960 that I bought that has a bum motor.
Nice. I will be interested to follow what you figure for engine mounts as I would like to do the same.
Nice. I will be interested to follow what you figure for engine mounts as I would like to do the same.
That's why I got the cross member in the photo. The left lower motor mount bracket is welded onto it, so I didn't have a choice.
anders
03-20-2012, 06:17 AM
That will end up being a nice swap, I have thought about doing a swap like that with a V90/S90 sedan. If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for all the parts from the wrecking yard? Keep us posted on the progress!
That will end up being a nice swap, I have thought about doing a swap like that with a V90/S90 sedan. If you don't mind me asking what did you pay for all the parts from the wrecking yard? Keep us posted on the progress!
My cost was about $300.
anders
03-20-2012, 11:26 AM
That's a pretty good deal in my opinion.. A local yard wants $500 for a non turbo D24.
Some yards are best avoided. There's a local place that always tells me, "Them Volvo parts are expensive" like they pay more for a Volvo when they buy them by the pound than they do a Chevette. I'm not afraid to leave parts behind if I get a lot of high-priced nonsense from them. I just usually tell them that I'm buying to resell (which is true in most cases) and I can't make any profit buying for full retail.
ngoma
03-20-2012, 01:52 PM
So, a 7xx crossmember bolts into a 9xx-series? That would make it too easy!
So, a 7xx crossmember bolts into a 9xx-series? That would make it too easy!
In many ways, the 7's and 9's are essentially the same car.
v8volvo
03-24-2012, 08:42 AM
Nice find!
Very good idea to leave the whole drivetrain just assembled as you have it -- for converting the gas car to diesel, fastest and easiest way is to just put the engine and trans in from beneath with the crossmember attached. I just did that same thing converting a 1986 740 turbo gas wagon and found it much faster and more elegant than installing the drivetrain topside. See pictures below.
Also, from the parts car, be sure to get the important parts of the diesel fuel system as well! Most critical is the fuel filler neck assembly. The diesel filler neck is larger and does not have the vapor-catch flap, so that it can admit the larger diesel fill nozzles that stations often use. See picture below for comparison. The fillers are not hard to swap and, IIRC, are shared between sedans and wagons. Grab it regardless.
And yes, you will need the clutch pedal and its bracket, any cruise control vacuum/electrical switches related to the clutch pedal, the clutch cable (though you may want to replace with new), driveshaft with center support bearing and front and rear shaft halves marked to preserve their proper phasing, and most of the under-hood wiring harness bits.
Bummer that someone took the turbo, since they certainly will have trouble using it on anything else. I hope they left the oil supply and return lines attached to the engine? I have a couple of spare D24T turbos in good shape that I would be willing to sell. The irritating part is that whoever stole that turbocharger also stole the turbo-to-downpipe gasket, which is getting hard to find and will not be useful to whoever bought it. Too bad. You will be able to find one with some effort.
Fuel filler comparison, gasser on left, diesel on right. Good idea to get the filler cap from the diesel too. I can describe what I did to modify the fuel lines and venting system from the gas car -- that part is not hard, no need to worry about getting the tank and lines, just the filler. Plus the 960 wagons came with a nice extra large 19-gallon fuel tank anyway... which you will want to keep regardless.
http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/5738/20120314153253.jpg
And here is what it looks like installing a D24T drivetrain "module" from below... disconnect the front suspension and steering and it is a piece of cake. I did it without even unhooking the power steering hoses from the donor car.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2174/20120304163237.jpg
Nice find!
Bummer that someone took the turbo, since they certainly will have trouble using it on anything else. I hope they left the oil supply and return lines attached to the engine? I have a couple of spare D24T turbos in good shape that I would be willing to sell. The irritating part is that whoever stole that turbocharger also stole the turbo-to-downpipe gasket, which is getting hard to find and will not be useful to whoever bought it. Too bad. You will be able to find one with some effort.
I thought about that. If I do get a D24T turbo, I'll have to round up that gasket. I was considering putting a slightly upgraded T3 on the engine once I get it going. 115 HP isn't going to be very inspiring in a car that had a 200 HP engine from the factory. In that case, I wouldn't have to worry about the stock downpipe and would weld on a different downpipe to turbo flange.
One fly in the ointment is finding a shifter boot/console for the 960 that will work. I think I can put a later 960 center console in and install a boot. It sure would be easier to use a stock part and I've contacted a couple of guys I know in England who may can help me.
Fuel filler comparison, gasser on left, diesel on right. Good idea to get the filler cap from the diesel too. I can describe what I did to modify the fuel lines and venting system from the gas car -- that part is not hard, no need to worry about getting the tank and lines, just the filler. Plus the 960 wagons came with a nice extra large 19-gallon fuel tank anyway... which you will want to keep regardless.
http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/5738/20120314153253.jpg
The donor car is an '83. Aren't the filler neck/fuel senders different from the early to late cars? I know the '85 740's used a different sender arrangement than the later cars; in the later cars, the fuel filler coupling hose goes directly into the sender while the earlier cars have the fill pipe go into a different part of the tank.
And here is what it looks like installing a D24T drivetrain "module" from below... disconnect the front suspension and steering and it is a piece of cake. I did it without even unhooking the power steering hoses from the donor car.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/2174/20120304163237.jpg
Wow, that's crazy! How did you pick up the front of the car? Overhead beam?
v8volvo
03-25-2012, 12:50 PM
I thought about that. If I do get a D24T turbo, I'll have to round up that gasket. I was considering putting a slightly upgraded T3 on the engine once I get it going. 115 HP isn't going to be very inspiring in a car that had a 200 HP engine from the factory. In that case, I wouldn't have to worry about the stock downpipe and would weld on a different downpipe to turbo flange.
I used to own a 1993 960 wagon with stock B6304 gasser motor, and I have done some work on and driven a 1995 960 wagon that had a stock (but healthy) D24T w/ZF automatic swapped in. The gasser six is very strong on the top end but the D24T w/automatic is peppy and torquey in normal driving -- not much different from the B6304 unless you were really leaning on it and getting the revs up. However, since your install will be with a manual trans, a different turbo with better low-end response than the stock setup might be a smart upgrade. The stock D24T+M46 setup is fine if you want to really stand on it and row the gears, or when going down the highway, but in routine driving it can feel a little soft since the boost does not really pop up until about 2500 RPM. The automatic is nicely set up to mask the lag but you do feel it with the stick. I am working on a VNT setup for mine using a GT2056V off a Jeep Liberty CRD, hoping that will give a good blend of low-end response and high-end flow. The challenge will be controlling it and dialing it in to avoid boost spikes. Have you looked into VNT possibilities?
One fly in the ointment is finding a shifter boot/console for the 960 that will work. I think I can put a later 960 center console in and install a boot. It sure would be easier to use a stock part and I've contacted a couple of guys I know in England who may can help me.
You will not believe this.... but I have the exact part you need. It is a Euro-only, 760/960 manual trans console insert, with both the heated seat switches on the pass side, just as it should have, and the opening for the shifter in front. It is brand new from Volvo, still packed in plastic shrink-wrap. I went through quite a bit of trouble to get it. I had planned to convert the 1993 965 I mentioned above and was going to use it for that, but after doing some work on the 960's gas motor it ran so nice that I couldn't bear to take it apart, and then this red '86 wagon fell into my lap so I put my diesel parts into that instead. Now the console piece is sitting on my shelf. I have debated whether I want to sell it, since I don't know if I still might end up wanting to convert another wagon someday... but if you are in need I might be able to be talked into letting it go, or I can at least give you the right part number so you can try to track one down.
The donor car is an '83. Aren't the filler neck/fuel senders different from the early to late cars? I know the '85 740's used a different sender arrangement than the later cars; in the later cars, the fuel filler coupling hose goes directly into the sender while the earlier cars have the fill pipe go into a different part of the tank.
That I do not know. I swapped the filler from a 1985 745 turbodiesel into a 1986 turbo gas and they shared the same setup. The filler neck still could be and, I suspect, might well be the same even if the entry point into the tank is different. VADIS would confirm. It is worth taking a look. You can also just hollow out the gasser neck to make it work... but I usually figure that if the right, original part is sitting right there and will work, it is nice to use it.
Wow, that's crazy! How did you pick up the front of the car? Overhead beam?
Engine hoist and a piece of chain secured around the front bumper. It was a piece of cake... having tried it, I would no longer want to do it any other way. The front crossmember has a very nice set of tapered locating pins between the two bolt holes that do all the work for you. There is none of the manhandling and prying and cussing that you go through when trying to lower an engine and trans into position from above and get all the mounts lined up... you just put everything in position and let it drop in.
There are a few things I would do differently a second time around... getting a couple strong wooden dollies with good wheels on them for maneuvering the drivetrains around on would be better than the pallets I used, and having two floor jacks on hand would have been better too. The hardest part was wrestling and dragging the drivetrains in and out from under the suspended car sitting on pallets on the concrete floor, but with the right equipment that part could be as seamless as the rest.
Did you get the struts and springs out of the donor car? That is the only other major difference in the front end between gas and diesel, besides the crossmember... but then again, the other TD-swap 960 I have spent some time around still has its stock front springs and it sits just about right. The huge twincam head on the B6304 probably offsets any weight savings versus the D24T that it gets by having an aluminum block and no turbo or injection pump hanging off it.
I used to own a 1993 960 wagon with stock B6304 gasser motor.....Have you looked into VNT possibilities?
I haven't looked into VNT's. I'm not certain of what turbo I need to use.
You will not believe this.... but I have the exact part you need..... but if you are in need I might be able to be talked into letting it go, or I can at least give you the right part number so you can try to track one down.
Yeah man, let's talk! If you have that part number, I would like to have it.
That I do not know. I swapped the filler from a 1985 745 turbodiesel into a 1986 turbo gas and they shared the same setup. The filler neck still could be and, I suspect, might well be the same even if the entry point into the tank is different. VADIS would confirm. It is worth taking a look. You can also just hollow out the gasser neck to make it work... but I usually figure that if the right, original part is sitting right there and will work, it is nice to use it.
From re-thinking the recent in-tank pump work on the 940T, there is a rubber elbow from the filler neck to the tank that might make it so the diesel filler would drop in the 960. I can check this at the junkyard as there is a '90+ car there to compare them.
Engine hoist and a piece of chain secured around the front bumper....
I've got a lift at the shop, and I'm sure I'll use this method to yank the 960 drivetrain and to swap in the D24T. I've got some good heavy-duty dollies that I can use to manuever the engine/tranny.
Did you get the struts and springs out of the donor car? That is the only other major difference in the front end between gas and diesel, besides the crossmember... but then again, the other TD-swap 960 I have spent some time around still has its stock front springs and it sits just about right. The huge twincam head on the B6304 probably offsets any weight savings versus the D24T that it gets by having an aluminum block and no turbo or injection pump hanging off it.
Is there a difference between the diesel front springs and the ones used on the gas cars? A 14mm wrench will just fit over the spring wire on the diesel and I compared that to an '88 760 gasser and the '92 960 that I have. They all appear to use the same diameter wire, although the total spring height may be different. I'll either have to pull some springs and look, or get someone with VADIS to look up the parts numbers.
I know the early 7-series cars used a different strut than the later cars and I wonder if the springs would swap over. I imagine so, but it would be nice to know for sure.
I have a 1000 lb. scale and dressed 6304 (960) engine at the shop that I can weigh and compare to the D24T. If they weigh about the same, I won't worry about it, but I would still like to have some good dope on the springs.
Update:
I weighed my dressed 6304 and it weighs 450 lbs. complete with starter, alternator, etc.
I've read that the D24T weighs about 475 lbs. but the difference may be a wash as the AW30-40 in the 960 gasser is considerably heavier than the M46 the D24T is paired with.
v8volvo
04-04-2012, 12:49 PM
I have a copy of VADIS that I need to get working again. I will see if I can find any difference in part numbers for the various springs in the different 700/900 models. The early 760's (1983 and 84) used a different upper strut mount that looks more like something out of a 240, but I don't know whether the rest of the strut assembly (and spring) are different or not.
I'll see if I can look into the fuel filler differences too.
Hoping I will have a chance to experiment with my VNT sometime this summer and report some results. In the meantime if you are looking for a stock D24T turbo just to get yours going, I have an extra that I would sell fairly cheap as long as I knew it was going onto another D24T engine... or even "loan" with deposit equivalent to value. Or alternatively I know there are many options in the T3 family that can be made to work... several on here have played with various arrangements, you may want to ask Jason, Anders or Kevin (Slobodan) for ideas, I know they all have tried non-stock turbo setups on their cars with varying results. All of mine are stock so far, though I did crank up the boost on my 760 TD using an MBC for a while and the results were nice. The European D24TIC cars, to my knowledge, used the same basic turbo as the D24T, just with a different wastegate spring to set stock boost level higher (IIRC approx 12.5psi vs 9.9 for D24T) and the compressor housing clocked differently. Since your 960 will probably have room for a nice intercooler (maybe even a stock one off a 940T), that alone plus increased boost from a stock size turbo may be a nice start. In Europe it was possible to buy a 960 with a D24TIC through 1996, so evidently Volvo thought the TD with intercooler had enough beans to move the heavier 960 body around.
I'm hoping for good results from the VNT setup, since it promises the possibility of strong response at low RPM along with the ability to move lots of air at high engine speeds. The Liberty CRD engine that the turbo came off of is a 2.8L direct-injected intercooled 4-cylinder that makes 160 hp and almost 300 lb-ft of torque. My assumption is that since it moves the right amount of air at the right times for a slightly larger 2.8L engine but one that makes its power at lower RPMs (since it is DI), the flow properties will be about right for a D24T engine that with less displacement but a wider rev band. Remains to be seen what reality will be like. The difficulty will be controlling the vanes effectively, since that is done by the ECM in the donor car using a relatively complex control algorithm. Plan A is to use a Shelby Daytona CSX turbo actuator since it is a dual-acting design with ports on either side of the diaphragm so that both boost and throttle-modulated vacuum signals could be used, but no doubt it will take quite a bit of trial and error to get it set up correctly.
Here is the center console insert panel that fits the 760/960 style console with a manual trans. The opening for the shifter appears to have some attachment points for a shift boot that possibly clips into the panel. Probably there is a correct European part for that purpose too. I don't have it or know the appropriate number but I imagine it would not be too hard to fashion one, or you could just use an M46 boot like in a 740. I got the idea, and the part number, a couple years ago from the guy who put this car together: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188058 -- and bought the part around that time as well. I forget what I had to do to obtain it... I think I ordered it from Tasca, then they called me up and told me since it was a Euro-only part they could not get it, and I said oh well, and then somehow it showed up anyway. Don't know whether that would work again or not. Maybe they somehow had one in a stockroom in the States that they were able to drudge up. In any case you can see the number on the package in the pictures: 1371049.
http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/5945/20120404125838.jpg
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6465/20120404125913.jpg
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/1615/20120404125930.jpg
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3286/20120404130001.jpg
George
I have a copy of VADIS that I need to get working again. I will see if I can find any difference in part numbers for the various springs in the different 700/900 models.....
I've had a couple of buddies checking on the springs and so far there seems to be a lot of confusing...updated part numbers, etc., but nothing concrete. I've satisfied that the spring diameter isn't different on the diesels, but as mentioned earlier, the number of turns and heights may be different.
Hoping I will have a chance to experiment with my VNT sometime this summer and report some results....
That will be interesting to see how that works out for you.
Since your 960 will probably have room for a nice intercooler (maybe even a stock one off a 940T), that alone plus increased boost from a stock size turbo may be a nice start....
Yep. I picked up an intercooler setup from a '93 940 Turbo over the weekend and it will bolt right up to the front of my 960.
Here is the center console insert panel that fits the 760/960 style console with a manual trans. The opening for the shifter appears to have some attachment points for a shift boot that possibly clips into the panel. Probably there is a correct European part for that purpose too. I don't have it or know the appropriate number but I imagine it would not be too hard to fashion one, or you could just use an M46 boot like in a 740. I got the idea, and the part number, a couple years ago from the guy who put this car together: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188058 -- and bought the part around that time as well.
I've seen that thread and in fact know the guy who had the 765, well at least I've swapped PM's with him. Chris is a really knowledgeable guy. He told me that the shifter boot in the photo below was one that came from an '89 740, so the boot should be easy to source and in fact I have the one from the '83 donor car.
347
I have a copy of VADIS that I need to get working again. I will see if I can find any difference in part numbers for the various springs in the different 700/900 models.....
I've had a couple of buddies checking on the springs and so far there seems to be a lot of confusing...updated part numbers, etc., but nothing concrete. I've satisfied that the spring diameter isn't different on the diesels, but as mentioned earlier, the number of turns and heights may be different.
Hoping I will have a chance to experiment with my VNT sometime this summer and report some results....
That will be interesting to see how that works out for you.
Since your 960 will probably have room for a nice intercooler (maybe even a stock one off a 940T), that alone plus increased boost from a stock size turbo may be a nice start....
Yep. I picked up an intercooler setup from a '93 940 Turbo over the weekend and it will bolt right up to the front of my 960.
Here is the center console insert panel that fits the 760/960 style console with a manual trans. The opening for the shifter appears to have some attachment points for a shift boot that possibly clips into the panel. Probably there is a correct European part for that purpose too. I don't have it or know the appropriate number but I imagine it would not be too hard to fashion one, or you could just use an M46 boot like in a 740. I got the idea, and the part number, a couple years ago from the guy who put this car together: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188058 -- and bought the part around that time as well.
I've seen that thread and in fact know the guy who had the 765, well at least I've swapped PM's with him. Chris is a really knowledgeable guy. He told me that the shifter boot in the photo below was one that came from an '89 740, so the boot should be easy to source and in fact I have the one from the '83 donor car.
http://i475.photobucket.com/albums/rr117/YV1AX007/Dash1.jpg
piper109
04-08-2012, 08:04 AM
About 3 years ago, I converted a very nice 92 745 turbo wagon to install a D24T. As the engime compartment layout is very similar with the air cleaner, battery box in the right places etc it was an easy swap. I even used the turbo gasser radiator and left the intercooler in though I have never hooked it up.
I did not change the springs as I compared them to the 85 740 sedan the diesel came out of and found them to be exactly the same. I still have the diesel sedan springs if someone wants them.
The car uses the ZF transmission (now rebuilt) and drive shaft from the 85 sedan. I chose the 745 wagon rather than 945 as the car is lighter overall. I did of course swap the front cross member also. The 85 diesel sedan ZF console and gearchange fit perfectly into the 92 car.
Much of the changes you are doing I did then and it was really quite easy.
Keep the gas engine temp gauge sender as you will need it to match the 92 cluster. It uses two wires. The one wire sender will not work!!
I did not use the electric cooling fan but instead installed the original D24T fan and clutch. I should have installed the electric fan in front of the rad for the a/c but I haven't done that yet. On the highway the a/c works just fine, even in SC !
Incidentally I am thinking of selling this wagon as I am in the process of buying a 2012 VW tdi Sportwagen with 6 sp manual and I will have to thin the herd.
cheers, Steve
One thing I've noticed about my engine is that it doesn't have a boost enrichment aneriod. It's from an '83 760.
Did the early D24t's not have the aneroid or is it possible that my pump has been switched? I've not seen any info/photos indicating that there shouldn't be on on my engine, so I'm sort of at a loss as to why I don't have one.
Anyone know?
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/2012-03-19151437.jpg
anders
04-09-2012, 05:50 AM
I believe someone put a pump on from a D24. I think you can add the LDA to your pump, I have never done it myself. I noticed your pump also has the altitude compensator on it. As George told me that pump would be 1984 or newer. Is the block itself a D24T?
v8volvo
04-09-2012, 07:49 AM
I can see a D24T valve cover and a dipstick in the correct location under all the hoses and wires, so I'm quite sure it is a correct D24T block (and presumably head as well).
On an early engine like that, there will be a stamping at the front of the head near the power steering pump bracket. Does yours say "D24T"? Assuming (and hoping) it does.
Nice catch Anders, yes, now that you point it out I can also see the altitude compensation solenoid there.... that is also something that a 1983 D24T should not have had so additional evidence that either the pump (most likely) or possibly the motor was changed. Having the solenoid is fine, but you will need to make sure that it is powered when the engine is running after installing it in your conversion.
George
Thanks for the replies, guys.
I'm pretty certain that the engine was swapped or they thought they had an '83 at the junkyard when it's an '84. From the photo below, you can see the date stamp on the head showing '84.
Also, I took a photo of the pump part number.
There is a hose going over to the intake manifold where the boost aneroid should be hooked up, but obviously, it's not.
George, I didn't see any stamping that says D24T. Could it be behind the bracket?
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/2012-04-09154207.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/2012-04-09154032.jpg
v8volvo
04-09-2012, 04:38 PM
I'm not completely sure that that stamping really does indicate that the head was cast in 1984, but if so, then that would also explain the absence of the "D24T" stamping on the head. The stamping is quite obvious on a small horizontal surface at the front of the head, on the driver's side, above the power steering bracket, just behind the inner timing belt cover. The stamping, however, was only present on MY83 and MY84 cars, and was absent from MY85 onward. Since MY85 engines were built in 1984, it stands to reason that if your head's stamping does indicate that it was cast in 1984, it was probably installed into a MY85 car and as such did not have the stamping. My guess is that your 1983 car had a 1985+ engine installed, and additionally for some reason got a NA injection pump too. It's always interesting to try to figure out what happened to these cars over the course of their maintenance history... so many gorillas butchered them and put incorrect parts on incorrectly over the years, that it is often a guessing game to figure out why an engine is equipped with the components it is.
The stamping is just visible in this photograph of my 1984 760 TD's engine. The photograph is one that I just happened to have on hand, sorry it is not focused on the area where the stamping is, but if you look close you can see it in the location I described in the paragraph above.
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/4389/20111214005301.jpg
Wow, George, that's a nice-looking engine.
To be honest, I was looking at the side of the head and not so much the area where the stamping is in the photo.
There's no telling why my engine has the wrong pump....altough both timing covers were off of it when I found it. I wonder if someone was right in the middle of swapping out the pump and then gave up, got busy with other projects, died, had enough of his wife nagging about getting a new car or what. Who knows? I looked in the car for any info on who used to own it, but didn't come up with anything.
v8volvo
04-10-2012, 10:38 PM
Thanks, yeah, that one was fairly clean when I got it and I have worked to keep it that way. It has lost some of the green paint on the block but is pretty nice otherwise. If I showed you the other end of the motor you would be able to see the shiny results of the $700 injection pump rebuild I recently put into it... that part is really a looker. DFIS in Portland, OR sends out some of the prettiest pumps around, IMO.
Who knows what happened with the IP mismatch on yours but you are probably right, if someone was dumb/desperate enough to castrate the output of his turbo motor by putting a non-load-compensated NA pump on it, he was also probably sufficiently mentally impaired to have bungled the job and perhaps was never able to get the motor running afterwards. I have seen D24T's go to the junkyard for lesser problems... Hoping it turns out to be a solid motor for you nevertheless. I'd wager that it will be.
ngoma
04-11-2012, 06:17 PM
Here's how to decipher the IP code:
Example: NP-VE x/x F xxxx A R NP xx
NP These two letters stand for the manufacturer, in this case, Diesel Kiki
VE Distributor-type injexction pump
x number of cylinders
x plunger diameter in millimeters
F mechanical governor
xxxx governor-controlled RPM number
A design symbol
R direction of rotation (R for clockwise, L for counterclockwise)
NP xx production serial number
from:
http://mebonty.monobasin.net/vepump.html
Now that I look at your photo, I can't see how it applies. Unless there is another number code stamped into the other side of the IP. Anybody have a loose IP they can take a look at and verify?
I'm afraid that I can't comment on the pump codes, although I'm sure I'll have to do something to get the boost aneroid issue worked out.
I pulled the magnetic drain plug on the transmission and found some metal pieces on it. I'm wondering if the transmission may have been going south and that's why the PO got rid of it. I'm going to pull the upper cover off of the transmission and have a look.
I really bought the transmission just for the bellhousing for a T-5 swap. I don't care for the M46's one bit, but if I can drive the car for a short period with it, that will be fine.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/2012-04-10214954.jpg
v8volvo
04-12-2012, 09:55 AM
Nah, it's probably OK. When I pulled the drain plug on my '83 760's M46, it looked similar. The trans operates with no issues. I think that stuff builds up from people trying to jam it into reverse while the car is still going forward. Bet all your gears work fine. That's what the magnet is for; it's doing its job.
I agree the M46 is not the most desirable setup, though. Are you going to go through the trouble of getting the wiring for the overdrive all set up, or just drive it for a while with no OD until or a simple jumper rigged up until you get around to putting in a T5?
I have a box full of disemboweled injection pumps and parts. I'll see if I can dig down to it later today and take some pictures.
I agree the M46 is not the most desirable setup, though. Are you going to go through the trouble of getting the wiring for the overdrive all set up, or just drive it for a while with no OD until or a simple jumper rigged up until you get around to putting in a T5?
I'll wire it up as I have a harness from an M46 240 that was converted over to auto tranny. For driving around town, I don't expect to use it much. In my 242 with the 3.31 rear end, I seldom used it except on the highway.
Last night I put the engine on a stand and pulled the pan. I wanted to just have a look at the innards to see if there was anything obviously wrong, but this engine appears to have been rebuilt sometime not that many miles ago. While the outside of the engine is sort of dirty, the inside is super clean.
The plan now is to put it back on the table with the transmission attached, verify timing, torques for the pulleys, and hook up battery and fuel to see if I can get it to fire up.
Here are some photos:
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/IMG_9176.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/IMG_9175.jpg
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m314/wrenwright/Volvo%20Diesel%20Photos/IMG_9169.jpg
v8volvo
04-16-2012, 09:14 AM
Looks great in there! Pretty normal, though. I wouldn't necessarily say that means it has been rebuilt, since D24T's (as well as every other diesel engine) are usually very clean inside regardless. If you are used to gas engines that fill up with sludge and varnish inside as the miles pile up, diesels will amaze you with how clean they stay, especially when synthetic oil is used. When I've worked on gas engines from time to time, the stink that you get as soon as you pull the valve cover off is always a surprise to me... just one reason why, once you get used to working on diesels, it's hard to go back to the other side.
Looking forward to hearing how it runs. You may want to check amp draw for the glow system before attempting starting -- sometimes these cars get junked because a few bad glow plugs kept them from starting, so before you wear out your battery and starter trying, you might want to check that yours are all in order. Each glow plug draws roughly 12 amps (after an initial spike that will read higher), so with all 6 working, after a few seconds you should see around 72 amps. With only 5 plugs in order you'll see 60, 4 will be 48, etc. If you have a good battery charger with a fairly accurate meter on it, using that to power the glow plug bus is an easy way to test. If you have 5 or 6 plugs working you should be able to get it started pretty easily, but if you are down to 4 or 3 you may want to find the dead ones and replace them before making a starting attempt to save yourself some trouble.
I believe your 960 should also have a 3.31 rear end, so yes, your gearing will be pretty tall. Stock D24T/M46 cars came with 3.54:1 rear gears IIRC.
I'll check out the amp draw on the glow plugs.
Incidentally, I weighed my dressed engine with a T3 substituting in for my missing turbo and got a grand total of 520 lbs. The 960 engine weighs 450 lbs. dressed. I think the difference in engine weights will be made up by the much lighter M46 transmission compared to the AW30-40 that's in the 960. Those buggers are heavy, although I haven't weighed the trannys yet to get an exact measurement, but I will in the next few days.
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