Losing power

[Oem1952]

I could use some advice on my 1982 non turbo . It sat for a couple of years and I'm trying to revive it . I've replaced both belts and set the valves, now with the injection pump set at .80 the engine starts right up,runs smoothly with very little smoke . The problem is it won't climb a hill . It looses power and the temp gauge rises. Twice now on my drive home from work this has happened , and at exactly 5miles after climbing a hill it looses power and stalls I pop the clutch and it starts right up again . Driving around town on level ground at under 40 mph it's fine , peppy and doesn't overheat . Does this sound like a valve/timing issue or am I sucking air ? Any suggestions would be appreciated .

[Jason]

I would check for a blown head gasket, also for a junk water pump, missing impeller blades etc... Is is loosing power then over heats, or is it loosing power because it is overheating?

Jason

[Oem1952]

I think it's losing power and then heating up. The needle doesn't go into the red . Thanks for the ideas , I'll check them out.

[casioqv]

I suspect a clogged fuel filter. The heating up part is likely not directly related... perhaps it could be just because you're going slow and climbing for a long time so the radiator isn't getting enough airflow. Do you have a fan clutch, or solidly fixed fan? What happens if you downshift and climb at over 3,000rpm?

[Oem1952]

I put on a new fuel filter, didn't help . That's what it feels like though , it just runs slower and slower as you climb . The fan is fixed . I'm leaning towards an air leak in the fuel pump , or a timing issue . The cold start mechanism is not operating at all . I'm going to disconnect that and reset the timing and see what that does . I have a clear tube into the fuel pump but haven't tried that on the return line yet . But if it's air in the line ,why only when I'm climbing a hill ? , even a modest one .

[michaelovitch]

for the engines non turbo before 1986 it should be 0.70 for the pump.
the gap between tappet and camshaft should be on the intake 0.007 inch and 0.015 inch on exhaust 0.20 mm and 0.40 mm

for setting the pump you must disconnect before the high idle system (cold start device)
his cable must be fully loose

a lack of power is often the consequence of a non correctly adjusted pump
the overheating too because of the bad combustion.

Did you adjust the timing belt properly ?
have you got the specific plate for the camshaft ?

how is your cooling system ?
clean radiator inside and outside ?
does the thermostat open at 87°C

some overheating 5 miles after a big heat load could be some heat delay by radiation
moreover the engine temp gauge on 200 series are too much regulated and will show you you're overheating later that's it should be
so you started to overheat before you saw it

[petercz]

I have a little problem with my tic, i want more power so i try adjust ip - turn the fuel pin and star wheel, that was a decent increase (i measure time 100-160km/h - about 24sec),
then i turn the fuel screw 1 turn, but I had same problem like ian http://d24t.com/showthread.php?t=671&highlight=idle , so I solved it and adjust idle...
Then the engine sounds deeper/harder, I try to measure accel time again, but I can't get more than 150km/h and I felt a power loss :eek:
So where can be the problem ? :confused:
Last year I changed hg to mls, full-synth oil, rebuild head and injectors and my mechanic set timming

PS: sorry for my bad english

[petercz]

Today i screw the fuel screw back, now it is much worse, max 3/4 boost at 3,5t rpm, trans shift 800rpm higher than normal, shift really hard and it is hard to get 100km/h :(
Any ideas please ?

[Kraftwerk]

Bad transmission, perhaps?

[petercz]

Yes maybe, yesterday I was in diesel service and the mechanic said engine runs pretty well, but it is possible that the transmission broke so suddenly when I turn the fuel up?

[petercz]

Ok yesterday I have replaced transmission, now it's shifting really good and smooth, but still low power... any ideas ?

[v8volvo]

Have you checked to make sure there's no restriction in the fuel supply system or air intake tract? Have you checked boost pressure? Does it smoke a lot as well as being low on power, or is it slow but smoke-free?

If your motor has EGR, you may also want to take the pressure relief valve off the front of the intake manifold and look inside and see how much buildup there is inside -- on the EGR motors sometimes there can be enough crud accumulated in the manifold to constrict the intake passages and cause a reduction of power. Usually this only shows up at higher RPM and in a mechanically injected D24T without a MAF sensor will probably be accompanied by quite a bit of black smoke...

A nice shifting ZF transmission is a real pleasure, glad you got that part of it sorted. :) The lack of power should be pretty simple, let us know what you find and we'll see if we can get it figured out!

[petercz]

So last weekend I have checked fuel system, boost pressure was only 0.6bar (normal is 0.8bar) and I have no EGR...
...but this week my diesel mechanik fully rebuild IP and he said it was totally worn out, no wonder after 400000km...
now it runs really good again :)

[ngoma]

Great news! That is a good mechanic that can fully rebuild that IP. Did the mechanic say what part(s) were worn out?

[petercz]

Yes, but i don't know how it is called in english, maybe shaft bushing or so...especially :o

[petercz]

This week I have free time again, so testing may continue:D
From stock rebuild IP I have turned the fuel screw 1/4 turn (for more I must move the throttle spindle, to reduce idle), now it's again much louder, friend said I'm on the edge :confused: but it almost doesn't smoke... wth is wrong with it ?

[745 TurboGreasel]

You have full boost by 3000 RPM?
10-11PSI?
~19 sec 1/4 mile?

If so, it's probably normal.

[petercz]

Yep, about 12psi... So why I can't turn it up withount increase of noise and creak from ip after start ?

[745 TurboGreasel]

Have you forgot to block the safety valve on the intake?
More on creaking noise?

[petercz]

I don't have the safety valve on the tic intake...
Creaking noise is 2-3sec after cold start, it's like a metal on metal friction or belt slipping, these 2-3sec it holds idle like warm, after that rpm increase to cold idle level

[petercz]

Ok it was slipping v-belt :D, so I used a little soap on it and it's alright...

[petercz]

I turned up fuel 1,5 turn, but when I give a full throttle and let off, the engine hang rpm (1-2sec) before go down, that's too much fuel if I'm right ? but so little ? when I turn it 1/2 turn back it's ok, but I want more power... :o

[anders]

Have you adjusted your idle set screw after turning the fuel screw? If you haven't lowered your idle after adjusting for more fuel that could be your problem.

[petercz]

Yes of course I have adjusted idle set screw and throttle lever...

[verdigo]

I could use some advice on my 1982 non turbo . It sat for a couple of years and I'm trying to revive it . I've replaced both belts and set the valves, now with the injection pump set at .80 the engine starts right up,runs smoothly with very little smoke . The problem is it won't climb a hill . It looses power and the temp gauge rises. Twice now on my drive home from work this has happened , and at exactly 5miles after climbing a hill it looses power and stalls I pop the clutch and it starts right up again . Driving around town on level ground at under 40 mph it's fine , peppy and doesn't overheat . Does this sound like a valve/timing issue or am I sucking air ? Any suggestions would be appreciated .

The fuel screen in the fuel tank can become clogged up. Mine was doing the same and I blew the line out with compressed air and that cleared it up.