Unusual Project in Norway

[HetLaeN]

Hello :)

This is my project now that mean my brother (he is not in this project anymore) bought from some guys in Sweden (we live in Norway), Spring 2009. The puller had been driving 5-6 years before we bought it, and they did not do anything other than oil changes after they had tuned it, quite impressive when thinking of how it has been running.

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad173/HetLaeN/Pulleren/tractorpuller.jpg



Now for the fun parts:

/Everything with the engine is stock, D24T with alu intercooler from a Saab.

/The pump is the VE-pump with 12mm cummins plunger, i do not know any more than that. But i suspect the governor is tampered with also.

/The compressor house on the turbo says Garret T4, not sure about the exhaust side. (If somebody see what it is buy looking at the picture, tell me and i will write it in)

/Pipes from turbo to the manifold is in stainless steel. It looks none effective with those bends, but it is less turbo lag now than it was with the old pipes.

/The exhaust is stainless steel 5".

/The radiator from a VW Golf 2.

/The gearbox is 4 staged 240, think it is called M45?

/The rear axle is also from a 240. It is been shortened to fit the rules of the competision


This link goes to pictures with comments to get a better idea on how it looks :
http://s933.photobucket.com/albums/ad173/HetLaeN/Pulleren/

It is hard to remember everything to put in here, so if there is any question, ask me!


I have new plans for rebuilding the puller this winter, but the plans comes later. Will try, and hope I can keep the project updated better in here from now :)

[vovlodriver]

hi
great prodject man
got a question about the Exhaust manifold you gonna use it stock or custom Equally long ?

[HetLaeN]

hi
great prodject man
got a question about the Exhaust manifold you gonna use it stock or custom Equally long ?

It will be roughly equal to the original, but with some modifications. Are not quite sure yet what modifications will be, but it gets major efforts to bring down the weight anyhow.

[hvguy]

aluminum front wheels? less fuel onboard>?carbon fiber seat? plastic steering wheel?

lol, just guessing

[HetLaeN]

Now we just had a test pull, and well, it runned very good until the diff broke down, again... straight after the pull we opened the oil filling hole, and it came smoke, it could be a sign that the oil is cooking real well back there and if it does, that could be a really good reason why the diff broke :P

we have tried 2 different oil type, one thick and one thin... these are not any racing oil or something, just regular oil from Statoil (yes, the norwegian statoil...) is there any really good oil to use on the diff? it need to be thin enough when cold, because we dont have any chance to warm up the oil before the pull, and it should manage high temp.

[Jason]

vid doesn't work...

I think you need a stronger rear end. I doubt the weight of gear oil is going to have much affect on a short term pull like your doing. Over the life of the axle having it too thick or thin could lead lubrication and wear issues, but not breakage like that.

Jason

[HetLaeN]

Do you have any suggestions for a cheap diff, but stronger? Or any other things to make it stronger? The criterion is that the differential must be open, to have control on the court, and that it must fit the Volvo 240/740.

[240diesel]

I searched for an other final drive ratio and found that DANA made a nice axle for the JEEP CHEROKEE. So i took such axle and builded it for my '78 volvo 245.

I wrote the story down right here;

http://d24t.com/showthread.php?93-rear-axle-rebuild-volvo-gt-gt-jeep-cherokee-I

[HetLaeN]

I searched for an other final drive ratio and found that DANA made a nice axle for the JEEP CHEROKEE. So i took such axle and builded it for my '78 volvo 245.

I wrote the story down right here;

http://d24t.com/showthread.php?93-rear-axle-rebuild-volvo-gt-gt-jeep-cherokee-I

That looks great, but I need smaller and stronger :P I am going to put some ideas out here after my last pull this year, 21. august ;)



But I think there is a problem with the engine now :S I started the engine today, went a while before it started, but once it started it sounded not so nice. Much noise, sounded like there were stones all around the engine. And when it was warm, just from standing idle it still sounded just the same. So i was reving it, and it sounded like it misfired. And why do it now when it has never done it before? :)

[HetLaeN]

small video of the puller running. You can actually hear the knocking sound from the engine, nooot good -.-

http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad173/HetLaeN/th_24072011002.jpg (http://s933.photobucket.com/albums/ad173/HetLaeN/?action=view&current=24072011002.mp4)

[HetLaeN]

Now I have started with the m45 gearbox. Goal: get the gearbox weight down.
I've taken out everything that is not needed. So the only thing that remains is the shaft with the synchronization ring. This is to be able to put it in 4th gear and neutral.
I'm pretty happy with the result, although I have not weighed anything yet.

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The next will be to build new transmission housing, and cutting down part of shaft diameter.

[HetLaeN]

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[michaelovitch]

Nice !

I don't really hear something wrong with the engine (maybe the video do not help) but i see some blowby :confused:

You run on normal diesel fuel or a specific "fuel" ?

Couldn't be just a steel cover plate loose or something ?

How is the oil ?

[HetLaeN]

Thanks! ;)

It's an incredibly loud noise from the engine, most of it is knocking sound, and something more like bad vibration. I guess it's a combination of rod knock, worn piston rings and bad timing on both cam and IP.

It is normal diesel fuel, but if there is something i can put into the diesel to get more heat, but the fuel still classifies as diesel i would like to hear about it :P

Cover plate is making sound, but the engine is so loud on idle that you don't hear the cover plate. Thats how bad the engine runs.

And the oil is changed often, but this year i have not change the oiled because the engine have runned for about 15 minutes this year.


Also, I have a question for you. Do you know of someone who has light reduction gear for sale. Or someone who can make gears on demand?

[michaelovitch]

For you gearbox ?:eek:

weight reduction ?

I don't know i have no contacts.

i would say a serious machine shop could do it.
it's a "simple" machining job on the gears or splines to reduce weight.

I can't help you but i' will follow your work on this machine.
Very interesting.:)

[HetLaeN]

the gearbox doesn't need any more gears, that is only going to use 1:1 gearing (4th gear). And because of that i have to have reduction gears on the hubs (where you bolt the wheels on) to get the right speed on the wheels. I haven't calculated on gear ratios yet, but i should perhaps do that soon :P

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And another question... The rear end is going to be where i can change gear ratios, and therefore i should have an rear end that have alot of different ratios so i can change to what ever i need. BMW have one or 2 diff housing that fits with alot of ratios, but is there any other brands that could be interesting to look at?

[michaelovitch]

the gearbox doesn't need any more gears, that is only going to use 1:1 gearing (4th gear). And because of that i have to have reduction gears on the hubs (where you bolt the wheels on) to get the right speed on the wheels. I haven't calculated on gear ratios yet, but i should perhaps do that soon :P

290

And another question... The rear end is going to be where i can change gear ratios, and therefore i should have an rear end that have alot of different ratios so i can change to what ever i need. BMW have one or 2 diff housing that fits with alot of ratios, but is there any other brands that could be interesting to look at?

I would say toyota.
quite easy to find and cheaper than bmw i guess.

They make a lot of 4x4 and they should be a bit stronger than the dana 30 copy of the volvo 240 or the real jeep one.

[HetLaeN]

I would say toyota.
quite easy to find and cheaper than bmw i guess.

They make a lot of 4x4 and they should be a bit stronger than the dana 30 copy of the volvo 240 or the real jeep one.

Actually, i think i have changed my mind :p going to use the volvo rear end. Because of the gearbox only have 1 gear, and with the planetary reduction gear at the hub, the only place i can change the speed to the wheel is by the diff. Therefore i need 3-4 diff's with each ratio so i get wheel spin from 80kph to 120kph. And because of the 1:1 gearing at the gearbox, instead of the first gear, the rear end will have much less torque. So the strenght of the diff is good enough with standard volvo :-)

If anyone have a list over the different diff ratios for the 1030 and the 1031, i would appreciate to look at it :-)

[michaelovitch]

:p
http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Diff_LSD/diff_lsd_volvo_dana.htm