engine component into another healthy body

[Elrico]

Hi gentleman.
Long time reader, first time poster.
I have a 84 760 D24t, M46 that is running good, but body is rusty.
I would like to swap engine-tranny into a healthier body.
I may have access to a nice 89 740T wagon, 2.2 with M46(Turbo is gone so as the overdrive).
Is it an easy swap??
By the look of it, it seem feasable. Have no problem with bolt-nut and electrical, drive shaft, rear-end, but I dislike being an artist and try to fit something that was part of the original design.
As a reference for my mechanical skill, I build a stroker mopar motor and swap a 4-speed into a 67 chrysler(had the part from another plymouth donor).
As well, in what other body this combination might fit easily? I would really like to keep the D24T.
thanks
Rej

[Slobodan]

totally easy and completely doable. Make sure you retain the '84 760 engine cross member! And totally go for the wagon! The main wires you need to run from the gas body to the diesel engine would be blue for coil it would now run to fuel solenoid. Red for alternator exciter, black for oil dummy light, yellow engine temp, and Yellow/blue for starter engage. when you pull the old motor leave the stock left and right engine harnesses. the middle harness unplugs from both the left and right and it stays on the motor. EZK will still be on the drivers side harness If you want to you could disconnect that whole harness and pull it thought and carefully remove the EZK wiring. and reinstall the rest of the car harness. That harness should contain the wires I mentioned above to get the diesel going.

[casioqv]

Instead of moving the crossmember over- you might want to remove them both from the cars, and move the engine mount support pads from the donor car to the new crossmember (by cutting and welding).

The original 1984 crossmember is a defective design which cracks easily, and was updated later on (I think beginning 1987). Sometimes they never crack (depending on the mileage and smoothness of the roads probably) but I think it's worth upgrading anyway. The crossmember on my '84 is just beginning to crack at 300k miles.

If you're parting out the sedan does it have the auxiliary fuel tank in the trunk? If so, I might be interested in buying that from you since mine is somehow missing this item. Do you also still have the factory '84 stereo? I like toying with Volvo factory stereos... and want to see if I can get a spare to try replacing the tape drive belts in.

[Elrico]

Thanks gentelman,
For now, the car doesn't look good but is running good as it is.
Unfortunatly, I lost the wagon, he sold it to another one who had and 2.2 engine to put in.
I found instead a gold 960 wagon 1996 with bend valve(2.9L I6). I didn't see it yet.
Folks are saying that I'm nuts to do the swap, but I will be relocate in a near futur at a plant that manufacture Biodiesel from animal waste. So cheap fuel. And the plant is 40 mile(mostly highway) from home. I guess that the d24t will be happy doing it.
Unfortunatly, the radio is out and didn't have the auxiliary fuel tank(probably remove a while back).
I'm planning the swap, but will probably rebuild engine and tranny while I have them in my hand. T-5 might be an option. Don't mind taking 6-8weeks and invest 6-7K in a car that will cost nearly nothing to run and be good for another 300 000Km.
Thanks for the advise for the cross member, I will search for crack.
Anything else I should be worried with the 960?.
I enjoy the site.
Rej

[casioqv]

The 95+ 960 is a lot different in many ways from the 740/760/940. If you end up doing the swap, I'd be really curious to hear what if any problems you have.

Just off the top of my head- I'm guessing the 960 crossmember won't interchange with the D24 one since the car has a totally different front suspension design, more like front-wheel-drive Volvos. It also has IRS with a transverse leaf spring, so the D24 driveline may not work either. It probably would require a lot more work and fabrication than swapping the motor into a 940, but if you're already looking at things like a T-5 swap maybe it wouldn't make much difference. The 95+ 960 sure is more of a refined "modern" car than the 740/760/940. I especially love the seats!

[bigbillyboy11]

Hey,
this is what I'm going to do. just bought the 1989 740 turbo intercooled wagon two days ago with perffect body and interior. It's so nice - its loaded. If it will stop snowing, I'd pull the engine from the 1985 765 wagon. Some questions:
1. I really want to keep the intercooler. I think it will work if I switch to an electric fan. Thoughts?
2. Is the rear axle ratio different? will it be a problem?
3. would there be any benefit to switching to the turbo off the gasser? It seems to be in good shape.
I'll start a thread with the swap. I'm sure I'll need help.

Here's the "new" body:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_pzMRdiCy310/TWdApQhKeeI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/iqX9fDiJmn8/s640/IMG00050-20110221-1547.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_pzMRdiCy310/TWdA6QXzfqI/AAAAAAAAAMg/XikvixuJSZM/s640/IMG00053-20110221-1548.jpg

[casioqv]

Wow, Awesome find! I keep seeing people putting their D24Ts in nice later model wagons, and really want to do it myself!

1) To keep the intercooler you'd also need to switch to the smaller radiator, which probably isn't a great idea. You might have better luck fitting the wider 1992+ model intercooler with your diesel radiator (if it's in good unclogged shape).
2) The automatic 740 Turbo rear axle is 3.73, the D24 ZF auto one is 3.91, and the D24 M46 one is 3.54. Keeping the stock D24T ratios is generally a good idea, but ideal ratios depend heavily on how the car is used.
If this 740 has ABS it will have a different number of teeth on the speedometer signal tone ring, which makes the axle swap not straightforward. You would want to install the spider gear unit from the ABS car in the D24T axle housing, keeping the D24T ring and pinion.
3) Definitely stick with the D24 turbo. This one will be a smaller unit that will produce more heat (and therefore less dense air and less power), and it's not simply a bolt-in replacement.

[bigbillyboy11]

Cool. Thanks. I'm definitely going to stick with the 3.73's. Taller gears are good as I'm going to primarily run on the highway, and I'm planning on turning it up a bit, especially if I can get it intercooled.

[casioqv]

So you have the ZF automatic? The D24T in stock form really doesn't make a lot of low rpm torque so you may find yourself downshifting more uphill with taller gears. It would also raise the speed at which the torque converter locks up.