HV's 82 D24 turbo build

[hvguy]

HV: I made this new thread for you since your original one was so clogged up with crap. I appologize for the clutter that I too was guilty of adding to in your original thread. Please continue to post updates in this new thread.

Jason



Starting off with a 82 245GL estate Diplomat edition.

260k miles,

I started on the manifold today, thankfully with the leaky valve cover-the mani-bolts were easy to remove.

I had to cut the rear flange-pipe with a torch since the bolts were not easily accessable... went ahead and chopped the front flange-bolts that attached the mani to the pipe since the torch was already lit :rolleyes:

I started the transition by torching the flange off of the rear manifold about 1/2 inch from the beginning of the flange... and put the back mani in place of the front... upside down, and the front is in the back.. upside down. make sense?

And thats about as far as i could go today..

Should be interesting to see what im going to do for motor mounts... "I had to un-bolt the mounts to shift the engine over so the turbo will fit.. are there OEM mounts for the turbo edition that naturally shift the engine over? or does that require a whole new bell housing or crossmember? etc... O_o

pics tomorrow!

[Slobodan]

Wow sounds cool. I was toying with the idea of using the N/A exhaust manifolds to run a twin turbo setup. Looking forward to seeing them.

[hvguy]

Wow sounds cool. I was toying with the idea of using the N/A exhaust manifolds to run a twin turbo setup. Looking forward to seeing them.

raining today and my garage is PACKED! I managed to tweak the smoke screw in quite a bit, enough so it doesnt run away... bolted the manifold back on for a quick test drive, MUCH more responsive.

[hvguy]

success!
after forcing myself to finish the mani today, things finally came together.. and the hood closes! I decided to put the turbo up toward the oem airbox location. since the outrageous bends and having to re-do the mounts to put the turbo in the stock location would be a huge hassle.

going to run the oil lines tomorrow! any tips on where to splice in for oil pressure? am I going to have to drill a hole in the oil pan to install a drain? "thats what I had to do on my last na-to-turbo project...

To make the flange, I used a thin piece of cardboard, placed it on the flange and hammered on all the hard surfaces with a rubber/plastic hammer so that it would cleanly show where to cut, cutout the flange and traced it onto a piece of 1/4 spare plate steel with a sharpie then went over the sharpie with an engraver so that I could see the lines with the heavy torch-glasses on- proceed to cut out the flange with a oxy-acetylene torch then clean it up with a grinder....

all of the elbows and fittings were from misc old exhausts i had lying around including the OEM volvo piping.

total cost so far: 0$ everything used i had on hand/salvaged from other projects or got for free "including the turbo" 'thanks jordan!'

mock-up stage
http://i42.tinypic.com/zslteu.jpg
finished
http://i44.tinypic.com/330zep4.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/n2iuiw.jpg
installed
http://i40.tinypic.com/1z5nd52.jpg
peeking over the upper core support ^_^
http://i44.tinypic.com/35n6no1.jpg

[Slobodan]

Love the pics.... And
Let
The
Fun
Begin!

[hvguy]

=( started working on it just now and im at a bit of a delimma.... where to put the drain? it appears that the back of the oil pan is bolted to the transmission? wtf?

ill see if I cant recirculate it back into the valve cover:confused: last time I tried that on my paseo... the oil was forcing its way around the seals... but the turbo was mounted pretty low and had to force its way back up into the engine....

we shall see!,

I plan on teeing off from the oil pressure sensor...

[jbg]

I started the transition by torching the flange off of the rear manifold about 1/2 inch from the beginning of the flange... and put the back mani in place of the front... upside down, and the front is in the back.. upside down.

Wow that's a great idea! I always thought using the NA exhaust manifold for a twin turbo setup - as Jason was saying - would be a neat idea. I never considered using them for a single; well done! :eek:

Please keep the forum updated on your progress!

[hvguy]

WUDUUP! finally finished it today, build cost: $26.74

To solve my oil feed line issue, I did the same thing as my last project since it worked so well... I picked up the following at HomeDepot

SKU # Item Name
046843072008 2x 1/8 brass coupler
048643072053 1x 1/8 nipple
048643070059 1x ice maker kit "comes with a valve that you take apart and use the main body as the 'T'"

I ended up shredding the threads on the 'T' on the short side where the turn pin screws together, so I just soldered it back in place.

Thankfully the turbo came with feed and return lines, so all I had to figure out how to join the the engine to the lines...

For the return... since the turbo sits pretty high in the engine bay... and the oil pan was going to be a pain in the ass to drill and tap since its apart of the bell housing.... I drilled a 7/16? hole in the valve cover and welded a female compressor fitting "like the one you put on the end of your air tools" directly over the hole then joined the turbo and valve cover together with a 1"? piece of heater hose.

Had an old intake from an 08? corolla, I cut a corner section out and it fits PERFECTLY! I heated up one end and pipe-clamped it to the turbo.

questions? i might possibly, maybe have an answer... dont count on it....

TIPS: learn to solder with a torch! have REALLY GOOD flux and not real thick solder! get extra brushes for the flux! have a spill pan under your car X_X have kitty litter and a broom handy! have your buddy watching all the oil lines on your first startup in case something isnt right!

TESTDRIVE: Since I dont have a wastegate =( I hooked up a boost gauge just to make sure I dont accidently push 40psi lol, after I got on the road and really got on it "after it was warm" I got about 15 lbs of good solid continuous boost, sometime it would jump to about 18... can it go that high on my stock setup?

oh btw... i pulled the oil sender out to take it with me to homedepot to check the threads, got what I needed then came home. My buddy was with me and wanted to see the progress, i wanted to show him the smoke on startup lol, so i cranked the engine up from through the window then walked up to the engine bay on the passenger side... what do I see? a SOLID stream of pitch black oil coming form the side of the engine! FUUUUUUUCCKK! im so stupid... thankfully i turned it off and only lost about a gallon of oil... now theres a oil slick about 1.5ft wide and 14ft long down my driveway! yay!

block to press. sensor to turbo fitting thing
http://i42.tinypic.com/orl4zl.jpg
oil feed line coming from the turbo, i had some weird brass fitting I drilled out and used a fitting from the ice maker kit and soldered it all together.
http://i39.tinypic.com/105wncm.jpg
finished setup
http://i41.tinypic.com/ayvxmq.jpg
i plan on fastening a chrome pipe about 4" in diameter and about 10 inches tall to the hood, right now it closes perfectly, but when I take off the up-pipe vibrates against the hood.
http://i40.tinypic.com/24ytxc9.jpg

[Jason]

I would stick to around 15lbs without an intercooler. You should really add an oil cooler to it as well. With the lack of piston oil squirters, and lack of any oil cooling, its gonna be hard on the engine.

I did the hood stack for a few days, but it got kinda annoying. It does look and sound cool though!

Jason

[hvguy]

I would stick to around 15lbs without an intercooler. You should really add an oil cooler to it as well. With the lack of piston oil squirters, and lack of any oil cooling, its gonna be hard on the engine.

I did the hood stack for a few days, but it got kinda annoying. It does look and sound cool though!

Jason

ive got a big front mount RX7 oil cooler... where do you suggest off hand to plumb it into?

btw, im planning on pulling the thermostat out of the whole cooling system =( on a short run the engine got about 1/4 inch from the red zone X_X ive got a 30 amp fan buuuuutt..... its strapped to the condenser X_X since I dont plan on having A/C.... ill just rip all that shit out and see if it stays cooler... i am using a gas radiator... could that be some of the problem?

[hvguy]

I was thinking since the volvo is.... nearly the oldest car ive owned "81 starlet has it beat" I wanted to put old gauges in it lol... I found this guy that has a BUNCH of oldd WW2 aircraft gauges and is selling them from 20$ to 90$ about 80% of them are in good working condition.... ammo counters compass brake speed knots etc...

http://www.spitfirespares.com/SpitfireSpares.com/Website%20products%20178/20LB%20boost%201.jpg
http://www.spitfirespares.com/SpitfireSpares.com/website%20products%20153/Rad%20Temp%202.jpg

[Jason]

You need to get a fan on the radiator itself pulling through like it should have... Also, you can get an oil cooler adapter from a gas volvo engine with hose fittings on it. It will sandwhich between the oil filter and filter mount.

Jason

[hvguy]

You need to get a fan on the radiator itself pulling through like it should have... Also, you can get an oil cooler adapter from a gas volvo engine with hose fittings on it. It will sandwhich between the oil filter and filter mount.

Jason

aah, ive seen filter relocation kits like that! Ill goto the junkyard and look around,

thanks!

videos today!

[hvguy]

no videos today =( i forgot... i wanted to take it on a lengthy road test, so I had to swap out the front pass. tire, remove the condenser, tighten down the leaky valve cover some more, figure out why its getting hot =(

I noticed that the engine was getting pretty hot when driving "about 3/8" from the red" so I filled the resivoir and popped the top radiator hose off and allll the water from the resiv. flowed into the radiator! freakin air bubble trapped in there. By the time i had done all this, i forgot about my camera.... fail

I plan on getting an inline fill neck and re-rout the upper hose straight back and over to the engine, right now it sits up just a bit so the pump has to push the water up into the radiator =(

anyone in need of a FULL ac system? hoses, condensor, pump, evaporator "if i can figure out how to remove it" my fan only works on speed 1, so i dont really use it... windows work just fine =)

[Jason]

We need videos.

Does it run cool now that you got the air purged from the system?

Jason

[hvguy]

We need videos.

Does it run cool now that you got the air purged from the system?

Jason

yeah, but either its eating water or the water is escaping from somewhere... it took about a quart of water after driving around all day =/

and, i noticed that the valve cover was still leaking... wtf, so I pulled it off and noticed I couldnt fully crank the cover down and smash the gasket to the head because the studs have this little.... collar? type dealeo preventing you from fully cranking it down...

so I removed all the studs and just used 10mm bolts lol, fixed!


as for vids, i had my camera with me all day today WITH a tripod! but I forgot to take videos... FML ill try tomorrow

[hvguy]

Not everyone has a million dollar rig like you do. Its called cheap fun.




If you can't find any leaks at the radiator, I would expect you have a leaking HG. What the pressure like in the system after you run it around and its up to temp? Its only supposed to be 14lbs. It may have been leaking for a while, but once you start pushing boost through the engine, its going to make the problem worse, or at least more apparent. When the gasket blew on my friends car, it would be fine driving around untill the first time you get into it and make full boost. Then the coolant system would get pressurized and the hoses were so hard they felt like they were about to explode.

Jason

I just got back from a little drive, I went about 10 miles, shot some pics, got a video and noticed the temp started to goto the normal side of 1/2... then i got on it getting on the freeway "20psi" but only through 2nd gear... then took it easy, it got to 4/5 where it usually sits and I started feeling water on my left hand hanging out the door X_X overheating again.... godammit.

pulled into a gas station and it took about 1/2 gallon to fill it up, shit..

im planning on pulling the thermostat out just to keep it as cool as possible since I have a gas radiator....

as for the PSI in the system... zero! I cut a little hole in the top of the resivoir to relieve pressure so that the flimsy hoses dont pop lol, but now that you say that.... im gonna patch the hole and route the hose from the resivoir overflow into the car so I can feel if pressure is getting through.... since the resivoir pipes into the radiator about halfway down... i can see that the boost could be pushing more than half of the water out so it makes itself overheat X_X

please god, i dont wanna have to change the HG on this beast...


Rant Start:

what in the hell is with the design of this radiator X_X you cant even fill an empty system from the resivoir! more air bubbles than you can shake a stick at! why not just keep a typical old style top fill radiator and get rid of the silly tank... its seemed to work for centuries, why reinvent the wheel now?

like I said in an earlier post, I plan on piping in a fill neck in the top hose.... thatll fix that stupid problem.
end rant

[hvguy]

Question:

If I DOhave to change the head gasket "not a big deal, ive done it on my v6 4runner and 4cyl corolla" is it possible to just crank it over to cylinder #1 TDC, slide the FRONT belt off, mark the top and bottom, and not have to take off the back? "crosses fingers"

cause I cant tell if the pump is attached to the head only? or what..:confused:

[Slobodan]

If you mark everything, and make damn sure shit don't move. You should be fine. but its easier to have the right tools. To set pump timing, and what not. There are some interesting things about these engines. like the front cam gear.. No key way to index. Its a tapered fit. and when refitting the gear the bolts torque spec is 33ftlbs.

head bolt torque
33
44
55
180degree
run engine till warm
90degree
run car 1000miles
90degree further.

rear cam gear is 75ftlbs but you shouldn't need to remove that one.

the manifolds are around 15 ~ 16ftlbs

I would remove the cam shaft in order to lessen the risk of damaging the valves during removal of head. cam shaft cap nuts torque - 15ftlbs



Would be a good idea to get head shaved.... but take it to a machine shop that has worked on these heads. Do not worry about the cracks between the valves. its normal. head work will probably run you around 400$ on the high side. especially if you've overheated the engine a couple times.

Use new head bolts. or get ARP head studs. If you can find one, Get the metal head gasket... much better. I've done a couple head gaskets on these engines. I haven't done them the right way because the owners didn't have the money but wanted it running. So we did it the ghetto way. And so far so good. but then again. They didn't have just one head to choose from.


That is if you do have a blown head gasket.

I like doing the head gaskets on these engines because everyone else is like "What the hell?? how do you do this? " I say its easy watch this...

[hvguy]

weaksauce video, but you can see at the first of the video where the temp gauge usually sits =( then later on in the 4th gear pull, you can hear the clutch slipping like banana's :(
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wga2NFuHbR4

[hvguy]

If you mark everything, and make damn sure shit don't move. You should be fine. but its easier to have the right tools. To set pump timing, and what not. There are some interesting things about these engines. like the front cam gear.. No key way to index. Its a tapered fit. and when refitting the gear the bolts torque spec is 33ftlbs.

head bolt torque
33
44
55
180degree
run engine till warm
90degree
run car 1000miles
90degree further.

rear cam gear is 75ftlbs but you shouldn't need to remove that one.

the manifolds are around 15 ~ 16ftlbs

I would remove the cam shaft in order to lessen the risk of damaging the valves during removal of head. cam shaft cap nuts torque - 15ftlbs



Would be a good idea to get head shaved.... but take it to a machine shop that has worked on these heads. Do not worry about the cracks between the valves. its normal. head work will probably run you around 400$ on the high side. especially if you've overheated the engine a couple times.

Use new head bolts. or get ARP head studs. If you can find one, Get the metal head gasket... much better. I've done a couple head gaskets on these engines. I haven't done them the right way because the owners didn't have the money but wanted it running. So we did it the ghetto way. And so far so good. but then again. They didn't have just one head to choose from.


That is if you do have a blown head gasket.

I like doing the head gaskets on these engines because everyone else is like "What the hell?? how do you do this? " I say its easy watch this...

wtf! its just tapered on the front? i swear, this engine is the sillyest thing ive ever worked on lol.

I drilled a hole in the pipe connecting the radiator to the engine to vent the boost gases "if any" took it out and got it warm "taking it easy for once" then I did a HARD 2nd pull to 20psi, that fitting looked like a waterhose on full blast! lol, theres no doubt that the HG is blown to bits, but it still pulls good under boost lol...

im scared to death of that pump! im probably just going to keep everything together, mark the front timing belt top and bottom, take it apart, clean the hell out of the head and block, clean the pistons free of any rediculous buildup and smash it all back together!

i got to looking around on google... who makes a good stainless HG? and any idea what the head stud's measure? im gonna have to price all this out =/

damn, ive gotta spend money now, shit :D

[hvguy]

startup
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwHlPJ3rTjw

[Jason]

The only place that has the stainless head gasket is volvo. Tasca used to carry them, but upon calling them, they only had one headgasket in stock, and the guy had no way to verify if it indeed was a steel one or a fiber. After the one was sold, he said the number was comming up as permanent back order or pretty much NLA. If you can get a steel gasket through a volvo dealer, that should be fine with new head bolts. Otherwise, you will probably want to do arp head studs if you plan to really run it hard. You could do both but thats overkill. ARP studs have held 40lbs of boost on a 3 notch standard head gasket.

Jason

[Jason]

BTW, the head studs are made for a 1.6 vw diesel by ARP, you need 1-1/2 sets. If you call them directly, you can buy them individually rather than two sets like you would end up buying from a distributor like summit or someplace.

Jason

[hvguy]

BTW, the head studs are made for a 1.6 vw diesel by ARP, you need 1-1/2 sets. If you call them directly, you can buy them individually rather than two sets like you would end up buying from a distributor like summit or someplace.

Jason

aah, i was trying to figure out where to get em, but now I know they are for the 1.6.... diesel? i assume..

ill call volvo today and see if I can get the HG still lol. I intend on pushing the full ammount of boost "20-30psi" or whatever that little turbo can fully put out with no wastegate. Ive got no idea what condition the rod bearings are in... are they pretty durable? or is about 200k their lifespan lol, keep in mind is been pretty well taken care of until I got it, and i believe its got 268k...

ALSO, i dug around and I cant find really any other clutches except exedy OEM, what do you guys prefer and where can I get one... or more like what does it cross fit since I can never find anything SPECIFICALLY for the d24 and M46 tranny lol

[Jason]

I'm running the stock turbo diesel pressure plate, (german Sachs) and a clutchnet 6 puck with a sprung center. It grabs HARD as evidence I have a blown M46 to show for it after only 3 days. They also have some other discs like organic, kelvar, etc... Unless your really trying to push this thing, I would maybe get the step down from the 6 puck. Clutchnet also sells upgraded pressure plates, but they are pretty pricey. They also told me they can rebuild your stock pressure plate with stronger springs. Thats cheaper than buying outright, but then again the stock german pressure plate is pretty hefty. Lots of the turbo redblock guys use the TD pressure plate as an upgrade. The lower end of these engines is pretty stout, and being non turbo it should have had an easier life on the bearings assuming the oil was changed and they used something decent. If your not already, you should be running synthetic 5-40 like rotella or something.

We are taking my friend Alex's 83 760 out to the track tonight sporting a 3" hood stack, t3/t4 turbo, head studs, and 28lbs of boost! I don't think the clutch is going to hold it very well. Should give you an idea of the potential with average bolt ons and a tweaked pump. We will post video up tomorrow probably!

Jason

[Jason]

I can sell you a german TD pressure plate through the shop I work at (archway, in the vender section). You should check some of the other places too.

Jason

[hvguy]

i was digging around, and a google spider threw me to this site... ive seen these phoenix things popup from time to time when looking for clutches.... any news on if they are garbage? says its a TD plate... but im kinda wondering if itll hold 40psi

[hvguy]

great, just drove the volvo around the block and now the valve cover is making a "scraping" noise X_X grreeaaattt

[Jason]

Haven't heard of pheonix... I would stick with something proven like a german plate.

Jason

[volvo d6]

The manifold he made is better than the d24t manifold. It flows better. It is the same on the b23 engines with a modified na manifold is better then all of the originals turbo manifolds.

[Jason]

I made a new thread since HV's original got so filled with BS. My appologies to HV. I'm working at making sure people that don't contribute to the forum don't come back.

Jason

[Jason]

Well it may be a little disjointed, but a hell of alot easier to read since its not full of crap!

Jason

[hvguy]

YO!

its been awhile since Ive posted... the wagon has been sitting in a field since Ive been pretty broke for the past 6 months or so.... but consequently; ill be moving to NC here in about a week, so I took it upon myself to recover the wagon and bring it back to my house... After driving it around the block... I notice that damn scraping noise I mentioned earlier... its the back of the timing belt guard... seems it heats up and warps; thus rubbing the cam gear, no matter, Ill just pull it off the engine next chance I get.

I cut the old stack off and shortened it about 2" below the hood, welded a new stack to the hood so I can still open it. I then had to create some kind of funnel-type metal widget to go over the turbo pipe under the hood to direct the exhaust gasses out of the engine bay... after a test run- it seems the turbo pipe needs to be just a bit taller... ill just weld on some of the old pipe to make up the difference.

I test-fit my skinny inter-cooler today as well, seems its PERFECT! no pics though... it was all done with my hand just to see how it would look and if there's even room for the piping, which there is.

After looking at the car with the hood shut, I noticed it didn't have much..... color.http://i36.tinypic.com/2v2uozt.jpg So I grabbed a can of metal-cast purple and coated the headlights, then used some metal-cast yellow and coated the headlight trim to make them look like brass. Since I already had the purple out 'favorite color' I painted the stack purple with some metal-flake while it was still drying...

headlights didn't come out quite as I imagined... so ill probably take the paint off with some acetone after a few negative comments. lol, IMO they look.... kinda shitty, the can nozzle didn't quite coat them evenly. FML

Also! ever heard of a tow-hook ornament? I had a trashed HX40 turbo sitting in the corner of my garage 'turbine broke off the shaft and destroyed the housing' so I pulled the compressor housing off and hooked it to the back. THIS I like


As it sits now:

the hook-ornament--\/
http://i35.tinypic.com/2ylodbq.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/ftoj6.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/11vi2x3.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/317jg5c.jpg
http://i34.tinypic.com/n2yjq8.jpg
view inside the stack 'from the top' --\/
http://i37.tinypic.com/54dobc.jpg
headlight closeup
http://i34.tinypic.com/11iz9dx.jpg

[hvguy]

Also, ever see stick figure family on the back of someones car? im thinking of getting something like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41zpSwmJ%2BIL._SS500_.jpg

And one of these with pink and black for the shading... saw it on a cressida once:
http://i34.tinypic.com/xf51ew.jpg
http://i37.tinypic.com/211t1lt.jpg
where do yall get those D24 badges? i could swear I saw a thread on them awhile back...

and last but not least, a sponsorship badge.
http://i36.tinypic.com/2076l5l.jpg

[Jason]

Wow I'm really digging the exhaust on the toyota there... What d24 badges are you talking about? I've had some made that I put no the fender that look kinda like a cummins C. There isn't a factory badge that says d24 or d24t that I've ever seen, only "turbo diesel"

So whats the scoop? I thought the engine was over heating or pressurizing the coolant system??

Jason

[EvoStevo]

Nice! I kinda like the purple headlights actually.

[hvguy]

Wow I'm really digging the exhaust on the toyota there... What d24 badges are you talking about? I've had some made that I put no the fender that look kinda like a cummins C. There isn't a factory badge that says d24 or d24t that I've ever seen, only "turbo diesel"

So whats the scoop? I thought the engine was over heating or pressurizing the coolant system??

Jason
well.... errr, it was overheating and blowing coolant out at 35psi boost, and still is, so I mainly just putt-putt around when i do drive it.

Im referring to the badges YOU made, with the D24 that looks like the cummins C.

My plans are to move to NC, pull the head, replace the HG, put in head studs, weld the differential. done

[Jason]

ya 35psi and a warped head will do it!

As for the custom "D24" decals, I've still got a couple I think. Two are reserved for Alex's car once he gets it painted. PM me your address and I'll mail you at least one or two if I have enough.

Jason

[hvguy]

ya 35psi and a warped head will do it!

As for the custom "D24" decals, I've still got a couple I think. Two are reserved for Alex's car once he gets it painted. PM me your address and I'll mail you at least one or two if I have enough.

Jason

PM sent "message too short, enter more than 10 characters"

[hvguy]

I managed to wake up while the sun was still in full swing today, just in time to shoot a few videos of my brick.

Did a short sprint with the camera at the destination, and the ride home.... adobe is in the process of rendering, so itll be awhile till its live on youtube.

[hvguy]

I managed to wake up while the sun was still in full swing today, just in time to shoot a few videos of my brick.

Did a short sprint with the camera at the destination, and the ride home.... adobe is in the process of rendering, so itll be awhile till its live on youtube.


this is taking forever X_X
http://i33.tinypic.com/2myyts1.jpg

[hvguy]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2u2Ds7xkbJ0

[240diesel]

Nice movie!
I think the man on the road was a police-officer? In Holland i'm afraid the exhaust would have been a reason for letting you stop and have some trobbles with the police.......
That's the reason why i have a valve in the downpipe underneath the car , controlled by a handbrakelever of a Peugeot 205. So when i want i can close the valve and pass the police quiet.

You have done a nice thing modding the volvo this way.

[hvguy]

Nice movie!
I think the man on the road was a police-officer? In Holland i'm afraid the exhaust would have been a reason for letting you stop and have some trobbles with the police.......
That's the reason why i have a valve in the downpipe underneath the car , controlled by a handbrakelever of a Peugeot 205. So when i want i can close the valve and pass the police quiet.

You have done a nice thing modding the volvo this way.

yeah, it was an officer, employed by a church to stop traffic and allow those who attended church a free-flowing way out of the parking lot... he didnt really care much about what i was doing it looked like... and technically, its not illegal, since its a diesel and pre-2010 its emissions exempt.

[Jason]

Nice movie!
i have a valve in the downpipe underneath the car , controlled by a handbrakelever of a Peugeot 205. So when i want i can close the valve and pass the police quiet.




Now THAT's an idea right there. Jan you have any pics of that setup???

HV nice vid btw. You should post it up in the videos section too.

Jason

[Jason]

"nothing to worry about, just a small electrical fire" now that was funny I was laughing out loud. The smoke rolling around in the car was just too much

Jason

[240diesel]

I will take a look under the car next week with the camera.
While you're waiting i have a movie made by my son;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHKVAoMkf9c&feature=related

For his 19th birthday i made an air-operated system based upon a cilinderhead from a hyundai diesel.After my handbrake-lever operated valve i wanted something else for him......So i ordered a small compressor and grabbed some old stuff i collected over several years.
When i have a movie of the valve on my 245 i will open a new thread to keep this thread clean.

[hvguy]

ive actually seen somebody make one of these out of an old gasser bolt-on throttle body... im sure if you got creative, you could use the car's vacuum pressure to open and close a pneumatic cylinder... not sure how strong the pressure is though.

[hvguy]

here is the video I was looking for... they have some kind of do-it-yourself kit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apkV1Z9SM4Y&feature=related

[hvguy]

fixed my glowplug issue... the car was sending a constant signal to the relay to stay on... forever, so I put in my own switch and indicator to bypass it all... while i was down there, i gutted everything behind the dash that was related to being comfortable lol.

here is how the switch came out: I used an old control panel switch I pulled from a factory scrap job a long time ago.

off
http://i35.tinypic.com/2uohtz9.jpg
on
http://i37.tinypic.com/2cwn4i1.jpg

[hvguy]

Pulled the thermostat out and removed its guts, then put it back in place.

that should fix my getting-hot-fast problem... ill replace it with a lower temp when i move.

unfortunately the HG is still rather blown... so it sprays water like a fire-hydrant under boost lol, but its sure scurries down the road in a hurry, makes me wonder what itll be like when the HG is back to normal.:confused:

[hvguy]

just cut my springs.. did 2.5 coils and it rides perfect.. IMO it can go lower but the cross-member might start to drag =( ill post pics when that giant ball of fire begins to show its ugly face

[hvguy]

http://i33.tinypic.com/zwj2tj.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/34hifxz.jpg
now I need some spacers
http://i38.tinypic.com/1427gh3.jpg

[Jason]

Nice, the stance is just right.

Jason

[hvguy]

Nice, the stance is just right.

Jason

IMO it needs to be lower.. but thats just how i like things... here is my 83 corolla, ive pulled the expensive suspension off for storage for now, but heres a pic of when I had it "slammed" which is how Id like the volvo to be eventually...


http://i36.tinypic.com/28jvf50.jpg
http://i35.tinypic.com/2h2ksn8.jpg
the kit:
http://i38.tinypic.com/1zbexsl.jpg

[hvguy]

soo, im about to head home "houston from NC" and ive collected some goodies for the engine! while I was taking apart some medical lasers, I came across 2 radiators in a few units that were HUGE! i plan on making a manifold for em and replacing the one I have now... itll measure 16x29 and about 5" thick...

oh, and I found some 5" dia stainless pipe for a new stack...
http://i55.tinypic.com/1in66q.jpg

[hvguy]

was working on my cooling system for the diesel... the water lines connecting the cores in the radiator are filled with stainless spring shit to keep them open and not collapsed... unfortunately they are causing alot of drag on the water.. which is kinda good from a coolant stand point however just 1 pump and a filter only push 1.7GPM... when the pump is capable of 4.4 grrrrrr, so I added another pump in series and itll do 3.5gpm which will work... however now my silicone hoses near the first stage are bulging at 16psi lol.... however I have the radiator configured so the water has to take a 60 ft detour "actually calculated" to get back to the pump lol... this is the longest possible and will displace the most heat...

was thinking of using 1 pump per core... which would release most of the stress on the first half of the hoses...
and ill still be able to keep the configuration....

more testing tomorrow with hot water to determine configuration settings... maybe I can configure bypass solenoids for different driving conditions... day to day driving stays on 1 pump and 1 core, but if the engine reaches a heat limit of 185 it kicks on another pump and flips the cores into series to ULTIMATE COOLING POWER!!!!

looks like this:
1 pump with filter
http://i53.tinypic.com/x3s8sp.jpg
2 pumps without filter "since filter didnt really restrict the flow"
http://i55.tinypic.com/2cc16x.jpg

[Ruby Rhod]

3.5gm is VERY low for the engine. The water pump moves well over 10gpm.

[casioqv]

I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.

If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, along with the tropical clutch. With the tropical clutch, you'll get better cooling than even an electric fan conversion.

Also, no radiator can keep the motor cool if you have a blown head gasket...

[hvguy]

I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.

If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, along with the tropical clutch. With the tropical clutch, you'll get better cooling than even an electric fan conversion.

Also, no radiator can keep the motor cool if you have a blown head gasket...

lol, yeah, the HG is in the process of being replaced, im wondering if id be able to re-arrange the water flow in the cores... and I could always run the pumps in parallel for double flow...

you say 10gpm? i say it barely filled a coffee cup full in 30 seconds at idle =(

[hvguy]

ok... so I finally got around to finishing this thing. I built my own cam holder... aligned the crank to TDC, bolted the head on at 80ftlbs per bolt, set the injector pump where I thought it should be... and nothing worked...

good thing is I didnt smash the valves "woot" I tried mercilessly for the next 4 hours; setting the timing advanced, retarted, and so on... till I finally got it to sputter to life... but thats about all it did, smoke a little run really rough and thats all...

next day "sunday" I woke up with a genius idea of using a pair of calipers poked into the hole in the center of the injector pump to make for sure its on time... this worked! I had to hold them REALLY still and got it set to .039 with the advance cable slack.

even with the timing set it runs kinda rough at idle... im thinking its still off =(

also, something I noticed: before I took the front cam gear off originally, I sharpened a punch to a point and put a dent between the cam and pulley for alignment reasons..... however when I have the cam locked with the plate, and the crank at tdc... the notches dont line up... but only by like .075... im thinking the factory did this?

long story short, it works, but it needs a gasket between the turbo and the flange... its leaks pretty bad under load lol.

[VolvoBro]

What year were those gauges made? lol.

[hvguy]

What year were those gauges made? lol.

what gauges.... the airplane ones I wanted to use? pssh... ww2 era?

[hvguy]

it seems no matter what I do... I cant keep oil from pouring from my valve cover =(

so.. I got a long 10mm bolt in an effort to really clamp down on the rear passenger side part of the cover and managed to break it off in the head.... dear god.. why me?

so I got the genius idea to drill out the 10mm way too small holes and tap them for something bigger.... like 5/16!

all went well, I only did 3 on the driver side since it never really leaks, and I did all of the ones on the pass. side. In placement of a typical bolt, I went to fastenal and bought 15pcs of 5/16"-18 X 3/4" 18-8 stainless cap screws; along with 15 stainless washers with rubber molded to the bottom.
here is the hardware links:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1173494&ucst=t
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1133166&ucst=t

Its SEALED! i swear, when I took it on that first test drive, got home and popped the hood... I could hear angels singing 'aaaaahhhhhhhhhhh' no oil.

however now my fill cap is leaking O_o... it has the rubber washer still in place, however the actual plastic piece is cracked. :(


on another note: I installed a new 'industrial' boost gauge to really see what its pushing.. and it maxed out at 30psi :( i was hoping for 40, but w/e beggers cant be choosers...
has anyone ever blown the rear rubber plug on the manifold off? lol, i did, and nearly soiled myself thinking something serious happened.

are these cracks normal in this engine? all but 1 cylinder has it...
http://i42.tinypic.com/4g9kx.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/200qq9t.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/mhy7ig.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/25a86m1.jpg

[anders]

The 4 D24/D24T heads I have seen have cracks between valves, The engine that blew up on me in the kibbles and bits thread had very large cracks between the valves. I think someone here said if they are less then 1/8" deep there ok?

[hvguy]

so I'm pulling the engine from the wagon and transplanting it into my 81 Toyota starlet hatchback. my only problem now is after I do a hard run... it starts smoking white... possibly the injectors? any ideas? it has some blow by however its not exactly "too much" so I have ruled out the rings being toast... I think.

all help is greatly appreciated.

ill post vids in the next few days.

[hvguy]

so... got a small vid of the boost gauge however this was taken before I sealed a hole that was about 1/8 in diameter, and I insta-gasketed the turbo to the home-made flange I built since it was BARELY leaking around the top... so im sure its well up in the 30's now, however not the 40psi I was hoping for...

http://www.youtube.com/embed/r1RCr_R95c8

Im planning on ditching the wagon frame since it weighs in just under 20,000 tons lol, and im swapping it into my 81 starlet hatchback

"not my car, but same chassis, different wheels and color..."
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g43/55superbeetle/starlet005-1.jpg

and yes, it makes quite a bit of fire from the stack lol

[hvguy]

WOW, 2011? that was a long time ago. LOTS has happened,

my only problem is that when im on the highway (in 100 degree heat) it runs hot, id say the needle sits at about 65-70% on the gauge and it wont come down until I slow down from 65 to about 45-50... I originally pulled the thermostat back in the day so the cooling system is running WIDE OPEN, I blocked off the cold start advance hoping it was recirculating water, and I hooked up a hose to bypass the heater core. I shot the hoses with a FLIR camera and when sitting still after a hard run down the road and back with the fan on sitting still idling there is only a 5 degree temp drop across each tank on either side of the radiator. On one side its 170, the other its 165 =( maybe my radiator is garbage... it sat with pure water in it for about 3 years until recently I flushed it with clean water and replaced with actual 50/50 antifreeze.

any ideas?

rebuilt the turbo, installed an intercooler, welded up a stainless riser to aid oil draining from the turbo, hooked the electric fan back up, fixed rotted wiring, put a toggle switch on blinkers and high beam (i broke the turn signal flipper thingy) replaced nearly all of the bulbs, bought a larger more accurate pressure gauge to read boost.... tightened alternator belt? cleaned it and threw together an emergency fix anything crate and strapped it in the back (water, oil, zippies, tape, pipe clamps, bailing wire, gloves, rags, wd40, brake cleaner, starting fluid, bulbs, fuses etc)

ive got some MB weapons i want to mount but i need spacers... 5x108 to 5x114.3
I love cooling system mods. Props for creativity, but I don't think there's any way you could keep a D24 cool using those as radiators... the flowrate won't be nearly high enough. This is why all car radiators use large end tanks with all of the tubes in parallel, vs the series type radiators you have there.

If you want significantly better cooling on a D24 consider a Volvo tropical fan clutch, and getting the radiator custom re-cored into a 3 row by a radiator shop. With this setup, my D24T stays under 100C running full throttle up a steep grade with the AC on! Or more cheaply, doing a "citric acid flush" to bring an old 2 core back into like-new condition, .
im going to try this


http://i62.tinypic.com/vqgrrr.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/x3wbh4.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/slticw.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/1586zhs.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/2cih5i9.jpg
http://i59.tinypic.com/ev1d94.jpg

[RedArrow]

That`s a unique brick`s life.:)

I liked the yt video too
I`m curious, did motor ever end up in Starlet? Any videos?

[fathead431]

old bump, also curious as to what happened or if the wagon ever actually sold as I've seen the video shared about a lot!