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Jason
06-23-2010, 05:10 AM
Well, here is the begining of my "built" engine for my Volvo. My engine is just about worn the hell out, it has tons of blow by and is having a pretty hard time starting when hot. I can see the writing on the wall for it, I know by this fall it won't be starting in the cold weather...

This engine came out of Alex's '85 and had 173k miles on it. The car seemed to be pretty well maintained, and was all stock when we got it. It appears to have never overheated, and the head had never been off it as far as I can tell. It has never been machined for sure. Pretty virgin starting point which is nice. Upon getting it apart, the rings are totally gone, many were broke, and some were worn down to almost nothing (see pics). The bottom end is like new though! It doesn't even need rod bearings, but its getting new ones anyway... I'll be dropping the block off in a few days at a local machine shop to have it hot tanked and dipped (they have a acid tank for cast iron blocks that makes them come out looking new).

Plans for the engine include:
basic rebuild with new bearings, rings, rebuilt head with new valves, guides, min fly cut, etc...

rebuilt rods, shot peened, and balanced

balanced pistons

balanced crank (going to take it and have it checked/balanced if need be on a sunnen crank balancing machine at a local shop)

port and polish job on the head (by me, nothing major, just clean up/smooth out on the intake ports, very minor work on the exhaust ports)

NA cam

ARP head studs and rod bolts

I'll be painting the whole thing CAT yellow.. I know I know, its a green block, but I haven't found a green that really looks like the original color, and I kinda like the industrial look that the cat yellow has. Don't worry, I'll still be telling everyone its a vw diesel, but at least people when they look at it will probably automaticly think its a diesel, and NOT a gasser.

Heres some pics:
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2514.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2513.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2512.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2511.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2510.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2515.jpg

Jason
06-23-2010, 05:17 AM
This engine will also be getting my hotrod injection pump that I'll be building, but not untill after its running with my current pump and broken in. I've got a couple spares and am planning on building one with a Cummins 12mm head, and a 2.8mm lift cam plate. Also planning on doing a HE351 turbo of a common rail Cummins with the bigger pump. I'm hoping to make 250 to the wheels...

Jason

ngoma
06-23-2010, 09:48 AM
Wow, those rings are pretty worn for 173k miles. What do you think caused them to break?

I think the cat yellow will look sharp. You could carry the color theme and paint the new diff. cat yellow also.

cuaz64
06-23-2010, 05:59 PM
Interesting Build. Good Luck!

Jason
06-24-2010, 05:49 AM
Thanks... Hopefull it puts down some power. I got the head apart all the way last night... Quite a bit of room for improvement in the ports. Hopefully the port and polish job will help extract some more power out of it.

Jason

Slobodan
06-24-2010, 09:33 PM
Jason, you are doing some kickass stuff. Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see how it turns out for you, the port and polish.

Jason
06-25-2010, 04:40 AM
Thanks!

Wish I had a flow bench at work to see before and after... There is a guy on vwdiesel.net that had his head done, (for a 1.6 build) and it was flowed. They got a pretty sizeable increase in flow out of it. I'm not quite that worried about it to pay to have it flowed though. I've done plenty of head work, I know there will be an improvement.

Jason

Jason
06-25-2010, 07:28 PM
Here's a couple pics of the head. Just finnished the port and polish job tonight. Didn't get real crazy with it, just smoothed out the casting lines in the ports, and mostly cleaned up the material under the valve seats. All the ports had a sharp edge from the seat pocket being cut. The exhausts were worse than the intakes interestingly. I removed the ridge around those areas and blended from the seat into the port. Kinda hard to see in the pics, the camera flash really doesn't get down into the port very well. As you can see in the last pic, the head is all cleaned up, and now ready for the new guides to be installed. Its getting all new guides, and a 3 angle valve job next! As Alex likes to say, its my thousand dollar racing head...lol

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2520.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2519.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2522.jpg
The exhaust port in the one pic looks all out of shape... its how the light is hitting it, I was trying to get close to the intake port as you can see down it the best with the camera flash. I took at least 10 pics and they all sucked.

Jason
06-29-2010, 07:15 PM
Head update: I installed all 12 guides and reamed them. The head is now getting the 3 angle valve job and should be done by the end of the week.

I just ordered piston rings today, and hope to assemble the short block this weekend if the rings show up. I still need to order a water pump, a couple misc gaskets and the head studs.

The project may take a little break as I don't really have the $$ for the studs. I just got married and we paid for the wedding. Kinda put a drain on the finances!

Jason

v8volvo
06-29-2010, 11:54 PM
Congrats on the wedding!

Assume you are going oversize on the pistons... What kind of rings are you going to use? Just the standard Mahle stuff, or whatever comes on the pistons? Or have you considered using Total Seal rings? I looked into them at one point and decided against it due to expense but it might be worth considering for an engine that is going to put down a lot of power.

Also I would be sure to use a proper quality water pump, not a GMB, so that you are moving enough coolant to keep it cool. RockAuto sells Bosch pumps that are actually excellent quality. We ordered one and it turned out even nicer than the OEM-quality Graf I got from Tom. Nice smooth impeller casting, better than the Graf, and the Graf was good too. I would use a Bosch next time.

You might also considering sending your rods to Tom and having him set you up with a matched set of rods and pistons. There is a fair amount of variation in length and weight for rod+piston assemblies which can cause differences in compression between cylinders, difficulty selecting a headgasket thickness, etc. Tom has a massive collection and can make you a set of 6 that are matched for closest possible length and weight. If you are going to the trouble of building a nice motor I would do this to give it that extra little bit of smoothness and flexibility.

Jason
06-30-2010, 04:40 AM
Thanks... She puts up with the diesel, so I kept her around!

I'm planning on using the Bosch actually, after reading all of Tom's findings. Not really much price difference either from the GMB. As for rings, I ordered a set of Deves rings, which even have a 2 piece 2nd compression ring. Jim, the owner of Archway spoke pretty highly of them, and used to run them in his race engines back in his off road racing days. Lets hope the quality is still the same. The block is standard and staying that way. It has almost no wear. The rings were totally shot, but the rest of it is nice. As for rods, I found there to be almost no variance in piston height. Kinda a nice suprise from what I have heard Tom finding sometimes. The pistons were all within a few thousands of each other.

Jason

Jason
06-30-2010, 04:44 AM
Here is a teaser pic of what it will look like. I really like the yellow. I think once its all done it will have a real industrial look.

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2523.jpg

Slobodan
06-30-2010, 07:01 AM
I just got a woody!

Keep up the good work.

Jason
06-30-2010, 10:09 AM
I just got a woody!

.


Lol thats the idea here isn't it? Cheap fun.

Jason

volvo d6
06-30-2010, 01:07 PM
I work with big cat engines on crushers on work and i really like the engine colour. To hear on a cat engine every day at work with 10" pipe straight from turbo is the reason why i have d24t:D
Nice work with the engine.

verdigo
06-30-2010, 06:09 PM
Head update: I installed all 12 guides and reamed them. The head is now getting the 3 angle valve job and should be done by the end of the week.

I just ordered piston rings today, and hope to assemble the short block this weekend if the rings show up. I still need to order a water pump, a couple misc gaskets and the head studs.

The project may take a little break as I don't really have the $$ for the studs. I just got married and we paid for the wedding. Kinda put a drain on the finances!

Jason

My head has had a previousy line bore job. Damn thing has cam bearings. Im gonna have to use my NA head.

Jason
07-01-2010, 05:42 AM
Thats interesting.... Haven't seen a water cooled head with cam bearings.

Jason

v8volvo
07-01-2010, 06:59 PM
I have always imagined that color would be a good choice for a D24T. Looks great.

Jason
07-02-2010, 04:12 AM
Thanks, I think its really going to "pop" in the engine compartment. Especially when I go back to the track with the hood stack. Though with the new engine, I'll be installing a NICE chrome 5" stack on it. Jim, the owner of the shop is going to buy it for me..lol He thinks its great I'm going over there and beating up on the ricers with a smoke stacked volvo!

Jason

LaLinea
07-04-2010, 12:34 PM
Nice work Jason!

Very interesting thread. I'm gathering info about the D24/D24T cus I want too tune the crap out of these engines, especially after seeing a D24T benched to 260hk and 310lb/ft on the wheels!

Was thinking on the Nissans RD28T but the choice of aftermarket parts to this car is poor.

Had a 740 Turbo Intercooler with some nice upgrades so i know the 740 well ;)

lmwatbullrun
07-10-2010, 03:54 AM
Jason (or anybody else):

I thought I saw mention of the D24 having more valve lift than the D24T cam. Is that correct? What is the difference?

Jason
07-10-2010, 04:00 AM
Its supposed to make more power... I'm going to get one and take some real measurements on it. I think the difference was in duration though, but all I have really heard has mostly been generic stuff like "the NA cam is better". I haven't found any concrete info or actual specs anywhere.

Jason

lmwatbullrun
07-12-2010, 04:37 PM
Its supposed to make more power... I'm going to get one and take some real measurements on it. I think the difference was in duration though, but all I have really heard has mostly been generic stuff like "the NA cam is better". I haven't found any concrete info or actual specs anywhere.

Jason

The reason I ask is because I have 2 spare d24 engines for my NA D24. One is supposed to be good, well maintained with less than 90k when it was pulled, the other is a 'gentle puffer' with 160K but supposedly starts and runs and supposedly was never overheated. My thought was that if the NA cam indeed had more lift and more power, I have the ability to make that happen. I'd guess that ARP studs might be a good idea, as longer intake duration would increase the effective compression and raise EGT, even absent any messing with the waste gate settings.

On another note, I have heard that these heads cannot be milled if they are warped, as the camshaft bearing surface is thus warped as well. You spoke of a milled head- please tell me exactly what you had done to it?

Jason
07-12-2010, 06:44 PM
If your talking about running arp studs in a NA engine that would be a waste of money... They don't make near enough power to blow the gasket. Even if you were going to swap the NA cam into a turbo diesel, the difference in power isn't night and day from what I understand, its more like "every little bit helps" kinda deal. Studs aren't needed untill you are trying to push some big boost.

The service literature says the head cant be milled (same thing is said for the 4 and 5 cyl heads to in the VW manuals). Thats all BS, these heads have been being milled for years with good results. Not like you can just go down to the dealer and pick up another head. Granted, if its warped to hell milling it wont help. If its off a little, you can take a few thousands off it to have a fresh surface and minimize the warpage at the gasket surface. If the cam shaft area was warped so badly to where it would be a problem for the cam, the whole head would probably look like a banana anyway and would be junk.

Jason

Slobodan
07-12-2010, 10:11 PM
About the head warping stuffs.
I just did a head gasket replacement on a customers car. The head was original thickness and to bring the sealing surface back to flat twenty thousands had to be cut. Also the valves could be wiggled ALOT. 6 ~ 8 mm So new valve guides and seals plus a bit of valve grind. 300$ later new head!

100k on the motor. Some reason or another 10 years ago the motor lost the timing belt and a redneck replaced the head, didn't torque the head bolts correctly, left the heater return pipe hose clamp looose. No cooling fan shroud! And the oil feed banjo bolt was alll messed up.

Came though pretty good. It can turn both tires easily.

Jason
08-02-2010, 08:18 AM
NEW PICS AND PROGRESS!

Well, after being at a local tractor pull and seeing some Cat diesels up close, it was apparent that my color yellow really wasn't right, it was too bright. I made a trip down to the local Cat dealer and picked up a couple cans of genuine Cat paint, and a 1R-0750 2 micron Cat fuel filter which will be getting installed on the new engine as well (hey it has to match!). Anyway, here are a couple pics, they really dont do it justice... It really has that industrial look to it. The paint has a nice gloss to it and really layed out nice, not thin and watery like that other yellow I used. I decided to paint the head as well, since all the Cat diesels I have seen are all yellow. I do plan on having some stuff black and silver for a little more detailed look rather than just drowned in yellow. Granted some of you may think this is a waste of time (Alex keeps giving me shit about it) but for as much work as this is, it might as well look good!

As for progress, the head is just sitting on, not bolted yet. I did install the oil pump, rear main seal, oil pickup and oil pan. I'm waiting on buying head studs, and getting a head gasket. The one I bought off ebay from Europe was HUGE dissapointment. Turned out not to even be a steel one, and to top it off, the dumb ass mail lady bent it in half to stuff it in my mail box!!! I still would have used it even if it was fiber since it was a 2 notch which is what I needed. What a waste, straight to the trash. Oh well, here are the pics:

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2552.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2554.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2553.jpg


Jason

verdigo
08-02-2010, 11:59 AM
Thats interesting.... Haven't seen a water cooled head with cam bearings.

Jason

They were not stock. It appears to have been line bored and cam bearings installed to get back to the original dimensions

v8volvo
08-11-2010, 11:07 PM
Looking great. I like the new color. Not sure I would have painted the head, I like to see the shiny aluminum... but it looks sharp.

Flat black for the valve cover I assume? Or if you are going to continue with the Cat theme gloss black may be better...

Jason
08-12-2010, 05:18 AM
Thanks, I think gloss black. I was on the fence about the head too, before I had it nice clean aluminum. All the cat diesel I saw all had the head painted the same color as the block though. I really wanted to get it kinda close to the industrial cat look. I'm not going to drown the whole thing in yellow like they do, but the head was just too much aluminum for the look I'm going for.

George, did you get my pm?

Jason

240diesel
08-12-2010, 07:51 AM
awesome Jason!!!!

You bring two favorites of me togheter on a really nice and professional way.Love to see such nice photo's.
I keep watching you build!

Jason
08-12-2010, 08:10 PM
Thanks... Its going to get interesting once it goes in and gets the "built" 12mm head pump I'm planning.

Jason

cuaz64
08-24-2010, 07:03 PM
About head milling. I remember that Volvo Greenbooks says that you can mill them a little bit, and the Brickboard FAQ says that you can go a little bit more than the Greenbook says.

Jason
09-24-2010, 09:28 AM
Well, finnally an update for you guys! I just bought a core D24 head (for prechambers I need, a shim carrier, and the NA cam), and I just sent the money to a guy for the rest of the ARP head studs. All I have left to get is the water pump, head gasket, and belts. I should be bolting the head down within the next couple weeks. I've got to finnish up a bathroom remodel I'm in the middle of and we have our wedding reception next week with family comming from out of town. Not to mention pulling the trans out of my F350 to get rebuilt. Once all that crap is done, I can get back to work on the engine!

Jason

Jason
10-13-2010, 05:02 AM
Studs are here, as well as the head studs. I'm going to order the head gasket shortly. The trans rebuild for my truck is like $1400... Kinda taking the wind out of my engine budget for the volvo. Gotta get it together though, the engine thats in the car is getting pretty damn tired. Besides the trans is getting noisy too, I think the imput or mainshaft bearing is going. Its just non stop with this thing! Once its together though.... Its gonna be bad ass!

Jason

Jason
10-14-2010, 07:01 PM
Well, it finnaly gave up.. I think the head gasket blew. Its blowing coolant from the resivior, and its eating coolant non stop. I was thinking it could be my cap went bad, but upon trying another cap off Alex's car, it just super pressurized the system, the hoses were hard as a rock (kinda suprised the cap didn't bleed off before that??) Cant really complain, it has close to 200k miles on it, and the last 15 thousand or so have been REAL hard thanks to me. 25lbs of boost on stock head bolts! I cant believe it lasted this long. This is just kicking my but to get in gear on the new engine!

Tonight, I beat out the prechambers from my core and and started installing them. I also installed the valve seals. I should get the head totally assembled by tomorrow. I also ordered up a steel head gasket, since our supplier was out of the fiber ones. Vovlo gets 114 bucks for one these days, the guy said it was special order but didn't say it was any problem to get. Once the gasket shows, I can get the head bolted on and start assembling more pieces onto the engine. My goal is to get it to where the motor mounts are on and timing belt installed so all I have to do is swap the injection pump and alternator off the other engine when it comes out. Trans is comming out too to be gone through. I'm also going to get the clutch plate rebuilt, as its slipping the clutch in 3rd and 4th when you shift hard under full boost (even with the worn out engine!). It hasn't been the same since I had to get it on the trailer in 4th gear when the M46 went and that was the only gear I had. I think the clutch spring got superheated and lost some strength. Kinda long winded update, but thats whats been going on. Didn't want everyone to think I forgot about the project! Pictures to come...

Jason

v8volvo
10-15-2010, 12:05 AM
Sounds like a blown HG to me. Usually on D24s and VW diesels the headgasket seems to blow between an oil passage and a coolant passage, but I think that's when they blow because they were overheated. In your case it was probably the boost that popped it, so it makes sense it would pressurize the cooling system with combustion gases instead. Either way, I'm impressed it took that motor as long as it did to finally lay down, considering the kind of use that it was being subjected to... :cool: Hey, at least now you've got a good core motor for when you wear the next one out. ;)

Would be worth trying a cap just to see what it does. A new 150kpa cap is a good move, it's what the car was designed for and won't overpressurize. Maybe that's all that is wrong, or would at least help it limp along for a little while longer. Wouldn't want to let it get an airlock in the cooling system and then overheat and warp the head though. I'd be watching the temp gauge close while driving if there's any question of an HG issue.

I think I remember you saying you didn't put in a new pilot bearing that fit the input shaft on the T5 tighter when you swapped transmissions? Wonder if the trans bearings would have held up better if there had been more support on the input shaft. On the new motor it might be worth finding a bearing that is the right size and high quality, and see if that helps it out.

Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out...

Jason
10-15-2010, 04:17 AM
So 150 is the correct pressure... The system is probably getting more pressure than it should, but like I said I would have thought the cap would bleed off some pressure. Its only supposed to be what 14lbs or something. The hoses felt like they had about 60psi in them... They were hard! I'm just parking it before I do any damage. I've got a friends truck to drive while I get mine back together. The trans should be done today and I'll be installing it Monday.

As for the imput shaft bearing, I thought it may be going bad because of a vibration I was feeling, untill I figured out the shifter was comming loose. Once it had enough slop to feel and I noticed, I tightened it up and no more vibration. I was that all along. Trans is getting gone through either way, I need to fix 5th gear and it pops out of 2nd every once and a great while if you shift into it but decelerate.

Jason

nick
10-19-2010, 01:27 AM
This engine will also be getting my hotrod injection pump that I'll be building, but not untill after its running with my current pump and broken in. I've got a couple spares and am planning on building one with a Cummins 12mm head, and a 2.8mm lift cam plate. Also planning on doing a HE351 turbo of a common rail Cummins with the bigger pump. I'm hoping to make 250 to the wheels...

Jason

Are you going to use a p7100 injection pump off of a cummins too? I didn't know if that was what you meant when you said a "hotrod" IP. I have a he351ve laying around that I'd like to put on my 760 one day, after I replace the head gasket. I just have to find a steel gasket before I do anything.

Do the bolt holes in the cummins head line up with the threads on the d24t block?

Jason
10-20-2010, 04:56 AM
No I'm talking about the VE pump found on the 1st gen cummins 12 valve engines. I'll be using the pump head (12mm vs. our stock 10mm) and the came plate which runs the head. Our cam plate is 2.2 or 2.3mm of lift. That head can push enough fuel for over 300hp. I'm not sure what you mean by the cummins head lining up with the d24 block, if your talking the cylinder head, no its huge and totally different since its a direct injected engine. The turbo will bolt up to our manifold though since they are a T-3 flange.

Jason

Jason
10-20-2010, 05:02 AM
Ok, time for an update with pics. I got the head totally assembled with new valve seals. I got the spring compressor from work to check the lb rating on the springs and compaired it with the green book. Didn't want to take any chances with a weak spring since the engine is going to get up in the rpms often. I just got a selection of valve shims today so I'll start adjusting the valves. Cam is bolted in, and I also did some measuring on the NA cam, and I will compair it to the turbo cam when the other engine comes out. Also flat filed the head and block surface, and installed all the head studs... Its starting to look like something!
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/100_2627.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/100_2630.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/100_2635.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/100_2633.jpg

For any inquiring minds, the NA cam measures .330" lift at the cam. Once I get the belt on, I'll measure the duration at .050" as well.

Jason

Jason
10-22-2010, 05:15 AM
Time for another update! Its starting to cool off, shit its already the end of october!!! I was hoping to have the engine in already. I have been working on the engine pretty consistantly each night. I cleaned up the valve cover, blasted the exhaust manifold, and finnished the cylinder head. Valves are all adjusted. I'm just waiting on my head gasket. I'm taking the motor mounts, timing belt covers and a couple other pieces with me to work today to clean up in our tumbler to install tonight. With the valve cover on, it really tops off the look. Pretty bull-dozer spec I think. Its gonna look like a million bucks once its in the car!


http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/100_2637.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/100_2638.jpg

T-brick
10-22-2010, 06:38 AM
looks like a cummins 6BT haha! where can i get one of those stickers?

v8volvo
10-22-2010, 09:31 AM
Looks fantastic Jason. I wasn't sure about your choice to paint the head at first but now that I see the whole thing put together, I agree with your decision. It looks great. Definitely unique. :cool:

Might want to check valve clearance again after you torque the head down. Do you have a good water pump to use for it?

Jason
10-22-2010, 09:57 AM
Thanks! I had the decals made by a friend of mine to mimic the Cummins "C" found on the engine valve covers and on the newer dodge diesel truck front fenders.

I plan to recheck when its torqued, but I cant immagine it will move that much. As long as there is clearence on all the valves I'm gonna start it, as they are going to go out after the first run with the freshly ground seats and valves. I plan to check and adjust after the first 500 miles or so, and I may just check quickly after the first startup. I haven't ordered the pump yet, I'm gonna get the bosch from Rockauto since all I have access to is that crappy GMB with the bad impeller.

Jason

Jason
11-01-2010, 08:07 PM
The MLS head gasket is here! That thing is HD compaired to the fiber one. Between the studs and that gasket, its gonna be pretty bullet proof. I'm going to be power washing the engine compartment, engine, and trans this week sometime and then start taking everything out. Pictures to come.

Jason

nick
11-02-2010, 04:51 AM
You are doing a fantastic job with your motor!

Where did you get the MLS head gasket from?

Jason
11-03-2010, 04:50 AM
Thanks for the compliments... I ordered mine through my local Volvo dealer. Since I work at a shop they sold it to me for whole sale so it ended up being $85. I torqued the head on last night, installed the cam seals, motor mount brackets, and painted the timing covers. Just waiting for the water pump now.

Jason

Jason
11-04-2010, 05:46 PM
Update with a couple pics, I modified a remote oil filer mount to thread directly on to the bock where the normal mount goes. This way I can run hoses to the cooler and remote mount the filter. I had been thinking to myself how much easier things would be if that stupid ass cast mount wasn't right there, and if I could just have fittings and oil hoses... Then a pciture popped into my mind out of the green book, showing the block assmebly for a D24, it has the oil filter screwed right to the side of the block. We have remote mount oil filter heads at work that a D24T oil filter screws on to, so I knew the bolt that holds the stock cast mount on isn't some strange thread. I brought one home and bingo! Trying to get the area less clutered since the turbo, waste gate, and intercooler piping are all smashed up against the oil filter and related mount assembly. Also, this will give more room for the planned T66 turbo upgrade. With the current setup, there is no room for anything any bigger, as the waste gate canister already touches the mount. Not sure where I'm going to mount the filter yet, but thats not a big concern. Also, I modified the Cat fuel filter mounting head to bolt down to the factory fuel filter mount plate. Looks very factory and hugs the block nice and tight, exactly what I was looking for. Water pump should be here tomorrow, I ended up buying the "cardone select" pump from rockauto, as they were out of Bosch pumps and it wouldn't even let me order it, maybe they dropped them? Tom Bryant checked out a bunch of available water pumps, and as I remember the cardone one had the stock style impeller and was overall good quality, thought the impeller is plastic. At this point, I think I would rather have the stock style impeller made of thick plastic than the crap stamped steel one like the GMB pumps. Theres no way that flows as much water, especially with how the water pumps inlet isn't very tight to the pump impeller, since the water pump is adjustable. Plan to take the engine and trans out Monday!

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2646.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2649.jpg
Is the block squeeky clean or what!!?? I know your jelous!!! Gotta brag a little, even though most of my friends think I'm totally retarted taking this thing to this level.... If I'm bothering to do this much damn work, its gonna at least look good, and who knows, a diesel power challange for cars comming up perhaps??? No ones engine is going to touch how fresh my setup is going to look!
Jason

mylesofsmyles
11-04-2010, 10:38 PM
Whoa, this has got to be the coolest block up engine restoration I've ever seen...nice work!

Jason
11-05-2010, 05:08 AM
Thanks... I'm just tryin to represent for volvo diesel power for once. Its been to the track a bunch of times with the old worn out engine. I plan to put the smack down on a few more cars with the new engine.

Jason

Jason
11-10-2010, 05:12 AM
Ok, big time update. The engine and trans is out! I took everything out Monday, and started cleaning up the engine compartment, cross member, etc... Spent quite a while with degreaser and the power washer. Also attached are some pictures of cleaned up pieces waiting to be painted for the new engine, and my custom remote oil filter mount with turbo oil inlet tapped into it. All I have left to do is pull the trans off the engine and take a look at it for the 5th gear problem, and see whats up with the clutch. I'm hoping its just oiled from all the leaks from the engine. If its dry, the plate has crapped out and I'll have to send it out to get it rebuilt which will be the next hold up. Plans also include rewiring the main engine harness for a much cleaner look, as well as deleting some of the unused wires like the oil level sender, the boost switch, etc... I hated how the wires were routed, and I want as much of the engine to show as possible, rather than it be covered up with a tangled mess of wires and hoses!
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2652.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2650.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2651.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2655.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2658.jpg
Ha! I should have posted some before pictures, but I'm sure most of you know how oily/grease caked everything is under these engines after 25 years!

Jason

Jason
11-12-2010, 05:43 AM
Got the transmission off the engine, and the clutch off. The p-plate is pretty torn up thanks to that 6 puck clutch. Doesn't seem to have done much to the flywheel though. I would have expected the shoe of a german sachs clutch to be a little harder. It may have been slipping from grease flying out of the needle bearing in the crank, there was some grease type build up on the flywheel side of the disc. With how much material is off the plate though, I'm sure the clamping pressure is down. I'm going to see if clutchnet can rebuild/remachine it. Also, the imput shaft bearing on the T-5 has some play, but its comming apart anyway. Guess I have to find a pilot bearing that actually fits. I'm suprised that the bearing crapped out that quick, with the imput shaft being as short as it is, and the bearing is pretty big. Power steering bracket and pump is on the engine, along with the fan pulley mount, alterantor, and ac brackets. All the parts are cleaned and painted except for the intake manifold which I still need to take off the engine, and the injection pump which I'm taking to work today to rinse off in our clean tank. Dont want to risk getting any crap in it, so I'm not gonna go crazy with the clean up and paint, just get it reasonably clean, and I'll paint the brackets and such. Pics to come!

Jason

Jason
11-12-2010, 06:16 PM
Well here it is... Almost done, all I need to do is mount the turbo and intake manifold. They are still stuck on the old engine. Just about everything else is on... I'm not going to install the injectors and lines untill after its in the car and timed, that way it will turn over more easily so I can crank oil pressure. I'll also install the a/c compressor after its in, it kinda hangs down and is in the way for getting the engine set in I thought... I took some closer up shots so you can see some of the detail. I have ended up taking everything totally apart, the power steering mounting stuff, ac brackets, and also ended up painting some of the hardware black... Alex says its gotten outa hand and will be covered in oil in 15,000 miles anyway...lol I cant help it!

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2666.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2660.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2662.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2661.jpg

Jason

markbos4
11-13-2010, 02:10 AM
Looks great man, respect.

Stroked383
11-13-2010, 07:35 AM
Ha, i knew you'd take some pics last night. i was expecting some turbo/stack pics. Definitely a peice of work. If it runs as good as it looks you wont drive the bug anymore.

Alex

Jason
11-13-2010, 08:57 AM
Ya didn't get to the turbo... I wanted to the get injection pump mounted up so it wouldn't be getting kicked around the garage. I'll probably get the turbo and stuff on today hopefully.

If it runs half as good as it looks it should do some work... But it ins't the bug.

Jason

Jason
11-17-2010, 04:58 AM
Well here are the last couple pics... All done and just waiting for my new clutch to show up. Also a close up detail shot of how the remote mounted oil filter and fittings on the block worked out. A hell of alot more room around the turbo and easily plenty of area for a larger compressor when the time comes.

Jason
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2667.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2670.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2669.jpg

Jason
11-19-2010, 04:54 AM
Clutch should be in today. I got the 5th gear problem fixed on the T5, and its ready to go as well. Next pictures should be of the engine getting dropped in. Planning on getting it at least set in the car saturday afternoon after work, and hopefully running this weekend!

Jason

Slobodan
11-21-2010, 10:49 PM
Jason, your new motor is looking NICE! congrats! I can't wait to see the video of its first start up!

v8volvo
11-23-2010, 11:04 PM
Looks awesome.

Two things: one, your drivers side motor mount looks pretty well collapsed -- they need to look straight when they're off the car, if it already looks squished like that without any load on it then it will not last too long on the car. Two, you might want to change the position your injection pump is installed at -- it's best to try to rotate the pump further out, meaning tilt the top more away from the engine. It needs to be at least far enough out that the marks on the pump and the pump bracket line up (looks good that way); and you may even want to set it further out than that. The reason is that if you tilt the pump too far in towards the motor, then the boost enrichment device gets in the way of removing #5 and #6 injectors, and also make for even tighter clearance in there for getting wrenches in to work on glow plugs, etc. Giving yourself a little extra space is a good idea. You'll time it by moving the rear sprocket on the cam anyway, so the pump's position doesn't matter other than making sure you leave space for injector work.

Can't wait to hear how this thing runs.

Jason
11-24-2010, 05:04 AM
It got a new motor mount on the drivers side.. That one was pounded. As for the injection pump... That would have been a good idea if I would have read that a couple days ago, but the engine is in the car.. I can get to the injector though but its close!

That being said..... ITS ALIVE!!!

I got it started up last night for the first time after a two day long oil pressure debacle... It was really fighting me trying to get the oil system primed and build pressure before I started it. I had the injectors out, the rear end of the car jacked up as high as my jack would go, and the oil filter off and it would not pump any damn oil! I even added an extra quart of oil thinking the slightly higher level would help get it into the pump... No go. Ended up removing the oil relief plug on the pump and stuffing a hose and funel in there, and backfilling the pump and turning the engine over backwards by hand to suck some oil in to get it primed. I guess it just had a big air bubble it couldn't pump. The oil pump got installed a few months back now so I suspect the oil I dumped in when I assembled it had drained out and things were pretty dry. The engine sounds good, I still need to hook up the radiator, install belts, and figure out what happened to the vac pump... It took a crap for some reason. Its got no suction, and all I did was remove it off the old engine and bolt it on this one! I didn't drop it or anything like that. I'm gonna take it off and have a look inside it I guess. I didn't forget the pushrod before you ask! I'll have vid of it running here shortly, and some pics of it in the engine compartment... Man does it look clean! I spent about 4 hours on wiring and plumbing of vac lines, oil system etc.. I really didn't like how the engine harness was routed and wanted to show off the engine, so I rewired most of it, trimmed down the power steering pump lines, and vac lines that go to the hvac, cruise, etc and got that tucked up next to the fender a little tighter. End result is much cleaner. I got everything zip tied and routed, I just need to pick up some loom from work.

One other question... I found some extra wires in the harness that goes under the engine, and traced them up to the fender, to a plug, and down to some kind of sensor in the batt tray??? What is that? The wires were already cut inside the loom and I have no idea where they hooked up on the pass side of the engine.

Jason

Jason
11-24-2010, 05:23 AM
Here are some engine install progress pictures, and some close up pics of the engine now that its in. I took some closer in so you can see (or not see actually) all the engine wiring... Man I cant wait to start driving this thing.. Fresh clutch, a 5th gear that actually will shift in normally, AND.... wait for it.... COMPRESSION!!!!

Jason


http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/102_2673.jpg
I don't know if you can tell, but the volvo is smiling right now...

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/102_2674.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/102_2684.jpg
whats hiding under the hood in that volvo?? just an old junkbox volvo diesel.... its slow....

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/102_2691.jpg

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/102_2690.jpg
Hmm.. looks like I need to tighten up the fuel filter a little more so you can see the "CAT" logo.

http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/102_2692-1.jpg
no more wires/power steering hoses/vac crap everywhere!

Jason

casioqv
12-02-2010, 11:05 AM
Awesome build Jason- I love it! Your attention to detail is truly impressive; I especially love the small touches like the on block oil pressure gauge.

Jason
12-02-2010, 05:56 PM
Thanks,
that was a left over in the garage, and I always like a gauge to be able to watch it crank oil pressure to verify what its getting... The light comes on at what 10lbs? I like a little more specific info than that! I really let the OCD take hold on the build, once I started painting/cleaning/detailing I couldn't stop. I runs as good as it looks though, except for a little issue with how it runs when cold. I have yet to do a compression test, but I think a couple valves may be leaking. It has gotten better every day so I'm thinking they are seating in and will seal up fine. That being said, it runs freakin' awesome! The low end little to no boost power is night and day from before, even the sound of the engine is different. Much deeper and a little louder now. It really sounds like a dump truck pulling away if your standing behind it! No where near as much smoke driving around and under light acceleration... It can definently handle more fuel and boost! The old engine was drowning in the amount of fuel I was pushing that would clean up with 20lbs of boost. Once I get the 12mm head on the pump, we are really gonna see what this thing can do! I'm interested to see what it can do down the qtr once its fully broke in, it only has about 125 miles on it right now. I'm confident I'll be within my goal of a second quicker.

Jason

nick
12-03-2010, 03:26 PM
That is really neat! Great job!

Do you think a majority of the new sound and performance you are experiencing at the low end with no boost is due to the NA camshaft?

Slobodan
12-06-2010, 05:51 PM
So jealous! Congrats man! that looks amazing, and I am so happy to see such a clean and beautiful D24T!

Its getting me pumped up about doing something. I need to rebuild one of my D24T's and get it all perfect. So much fun you have there. Take lots of pictures/videos. Good work man.

Jason
12-08-2010, 05:06 AM
Thanks for the compliments.. As for the power and sound, I think it has more to do with the compression than anything. I haven't measured the stock TD cam to compair yet, but I have a feeling the cam difference is a old wives tale. The cam in the NA and turbo 1.6 engines was no different, I don't see why it would have been for the 2.4. I noticed an improvement with the NA manifold, but I had that on the other engine already. Really can tell that the head has some work though, the pump settings are the same, but the top end pull at about 3k up is unbelievable! Once its not 12 degrees, I'll get some new video!

Jason

240diesel
12-11-2010, 10:59 AM
WOW Jason!!

I wasn't been here a while...

What a nice job, totally awesome.
I think this is the most beautifull D24T ever seen!Just look at the details!The CAT-styling is perfectly done including the CAT-filter.
You combined best of both worlds.....

Jason
12-13-2010, 09:43 AM
Thanks! It has surpassed my expectations in how it runs... I cant believe how much cleaner it burns esecially off boost. Just no where near the amount of smoke. I can't wait to turn up the pump and boost to see what it can do. I still haven't removed the crimped on collar on the main fuel screw. Once it gets a few more miles on it and I switch over to synthetic oil, I'll be maxing the pump out and cranking up the boost however much it needs to clean up the fuel. She should scream then!

Jason

240diesel
12-13-2010, 01:35 PM
This night i had more time to read the complete story and i can tell you; i had exactly the same oil-pressure-problems with my overhauled D24TIC !!!!
Also unscrewed the pressurevalve and tried to bleed the airbubbels etc. etc. The D24 seems to be a problem-engine if it has to suck-up oil fot the first time......
Finally it was working for me too but it takes several hours to get that far.

Question;
I see a short water-pipe facing upwards from your thermostat-housing.What kind of water/coolant-hose will be connected to that pipe?
Maybe a parking-heater or so?I ask that because i am installing a parking-heater these days, so if there's a possibility to connect the heater i can remove my plug and install a pipe like your's to connect.(my D24TIC has a kind of freeze-plug in stead of a pipe....

About the wire's / function you are looking after; i really don't know, wish i could help you out.

(i wrote a little story about the parking-heater at the swedish forum because i expected more knowledge overthere about cold wheter solutions; http://forum.svenska200klubben.se/viewtopic.php?t=36255 )

Jason
12-13-2010, 03:36 PM
The pipe you are seeing I blocked off, it used to have a coolant hose to it that ran to the crappy D24t stock water/oil cooler. Being that you have a factory IC engine you have a front mount oil cooler, which is what I installed on my engine. I did install a block heater as well, it is in one of the freeze plug holes on the pass side of the block. I didn't end up installing it untill after I put the engine in, but man what a difference it makes. It starts up and runs smooth right away even with temps in the teens. Well worth it. My heater is a "Kats" block heater, I don't know if you can get them over on your side of the pond though. I'm not sure you could find a heater thats small enough to go in that spot, the heater I have is the size of one of the freeze plugs, and the element barely fits in the water jacket area. Its 400 watts.

Jason

Jason
12-13-2010, 03:37 PM
http://www.warehouseautoparts.com/store/Kats_Porsche_VW_Volvo_Yugo_Engine_Heaters.html#968

its the 10420 heater, its on sale for 21 bucks right now!

Jason

240diesel
12-14-2010, 08:04 AM
Thanks Jason, for your explanation.
I can't park in front of my home,i have to park on a public street and sometimes it's so busy that my car is standing 50 meters from home.
I know, a extensioncable is a posible option but you know, i come from Holland and there's a chance that i find my car cold in the morning while someone uses my electric power to feed his assimilation-lamps to let his weed grow. :-)

So i 'm building a independable diesel-heater as you can see in the link i posted.Today i made a T-connection to the engine to heat up the engine and the interior in the same time.Right now i leave this beautifull topic and please feel free to delete my postings in this topic to keep it "on-topic".
When the heater is finished i'll make a specific topic on that.

casioqv
12-15-2010, 05:42 PM
I haven't measured the stock TD cam to compair yet, but I have a feeling the cam difference is a old wives tale.

Ask Tom Bryant about this- I believe he's taken specific measurements on the difference, and even has some data to back up the (minor) performance improvement. There's not exactly a lot of after-market cam options for D24Ts though!

Jason
12-16-2010, 09:24 AM
I had brought it up on the mailing list, but never got a response with specific measurements... No big deal taking my own. Either way the new engine runs awesome, if the NA cam is the same as the TD, its not like I downgraded so who cares. If its a little bit bigger than its helping it push a little extra power. The engine comes on so hard now when the boost comes up, I really need to get into the injection pump and mod the gov assembly, and max the fueling out. I'm pretty impatient, but I'm waiting untill it gets a few more miles under its belt and everything is seated in. I'm going to go over the valves as well before I really start running it hard to make sure everything is within specs.

Jason

MRDART
12-17-2010, 09:18 AM
Hi! Long time since my last visit to this forum, not a volvo owner anymore :-(...
Your engine rebuild looks great... any video/ pictures after installation??
Would like to here how a "new" D24tic sounds like...
Best regards/ Tommy

Jason
12-17-2010, 09:28 AM
There are pictures on the page before this of the engine in the car, but no videos yet.

Jason

casioqv
01-12-2011, 11:28 AM
Jason- how did you cap off the stock oil cooler coolant lines? I'm thinking about using a 11x11x1.5" B&M Supercooler (http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Universal-SuperCoolers/Universal-SuperCooler-rated-at-29-200-BTU-11x11x1-1-2) for an oil cooler.

Jason
02-04-2011, 03:50 PM
Whoops didn't notice the question here.. I used a 3/8" pipe plug in the metal elbow on the head and just welded it in, I didn't like the idea of a hose and some kind of plug with a couple clamps, thats just something waiting to fail or leak. For the larger outlet on the block at the T-stat, I found a larger plug of some kind, just something laying around, and welded that solid as well. Some may not like the welding idea as its permanent, but I can see no reason to ever go backwards and use the stock cooler again. It was also nice to rid the engine bay of a couple more hoses that just clutter up the nice looking paint job!

Jason

ngoma
02-18-2011, 11:14 PM
One other question... I found some extra wires in the harness that goes under the engine, and traced them up to the fender, to a plug, and down to some kind of sensor in the batt tray??? What is that? The wires were already cut inside the loom and I have no idea where they hooked up on the pass side of the engine.
You probably figured this out by now, but::::::::::::::::::: That would be the battery temp sensor wires. Originally I think the idea was to regulate charging based on battery temperature. I don't know if this was specific to the diesels or not. The orig. Bosch alternator had a socket-type dual bullet connector on the back of the regulator that these wires plugged into.

While repairing the deteriorated engine wiring on my car, I also found these wires cut (under the battery tray). I'm hoping it charges fine without this circuit active.

casioqv
02-20-2011, 03:31 PM
I'm hoping it charges fine without this circuit active.

With the plug disconnected from the back of the alternator, they work just like a normal alternator.

It's an interesting idea that theoretically would both shorten charge times and improve battery longevity by charging at a higher voltage while the battery is cool, but in practice battery acid destroys the sensor and causes it to over-charge when the battery is hot. Volvo later released a FSB that they should all be left disconnected, to revert to normal (non battery temp sensing) operation.

A lead acid battery can be safely (and more quickly) charged at higher voltages at low temperatures, which also helps to avoid sulfation BUT it's absolutely critical to drop this voltage lower at high temperatures to prevent battery damage. A charging system without a temp sensor must assume high temp at all times, and charge the battery with a lower voltage which results in slower charging, and more sulfation (which can shorten battery life).

In theory it's a cost-saving feature that improves battery longevity, but in practice it's an overly complex unreliable system which reduces battery longevity.

ngoma
02-21-2011, 11:18 AM
Nice explanation.

Volvo later released a FSB that they should all be left disconnected, to revert to normal (non battery temp sensing) operation.
Wish I knew this when I was chasing around for a replacement alternator. Thought it needed to have the funny dual bullet connector on the back of it (rare). I wanted to upgrade to an alt w/ higher amps rating because planning to add 2nd heated seat and better headlights.

Jason
02-22-2011, 09:47 AM
I've never had a problem with the charging system... One of the few things on the car that I haven't had to mess with!

Jason

bigbillyboy11
02-25-2011, 07:42 AM
I'm interested to know more about the part number of the remote oil filter adapter you used. Also where to get it etc. I'd like to do this as I think my current one is leaking and letting coolant mix with the engine oil.

Lepsyl
02-26-2011, 05:56 AM
Looks verry good!

What pump mods have you done and what injectors are you running?

Ever tested different opening pressures on the injectors?

Jason
03-02-2011, 09:28 AM
To Lepsyl: I'm running the DNOSD 273 "GTD" nozzles, I've set them to a higher opening pressure, right around 2400 to 2450 psi, or as close to that as I could get in that range. That was a good few hundred psi higher than the stock and the performance was improved quite a bit. However, I also went from old worn out original injectors. I haven't tried different pressures on the new ones, and I can really imagine the performance difference would be night and day. With the amount of work it is to R&R the injectors, along with reshiming, testing, and doing it over untill you get them all the same, its not really worth it to me to mess with at this point. Pump mods I have done are listed in the performance section, though I'm in the process of building a "built" pump with a 12mm head.

As for the remote oil filter mount, we sell them at work, they are about $15. I used one on the block as well and just cut off the mounting bracket thats cast into it. We have them in ports up, left, and right. Its a full flow filter mount for a air cooled vw bug, just about every vw shop has them if there's one in your area. If not you can always call me up at the shop and we can ship them.

Jason

bigbillyboy11
03-03-2011, 03:45 PM
As for the remote oil filter mount, we sell them at work, they are about $15. I used one on the block as well and just cut off the mounting bracket thats cast into it. We have them in ports up, left, and right. Its a full flow filter mount for a air cooled vw bug, just about every vw shop has them if there's one in your area. If not you can always call me up at the shop and we can ship them.

Jason

So, if I understand you correctly, you modified the portion of the existing oil cooler/filter mount on the d24t block adapter to accept the oil hoses which you ran to the full flow filter mount? Sounds simple. Did you just hose clamps, or did you tap the existing modified oil filter adapter?

bigbillyboy11
03-15-2011, 09:10 AM
Never mind. I found the kit and now notice that it comes with an adapter for the block AND and adapter for the filter. When you said you modified the portion that hooks to the block, what exactly did you need to do?

Jason

Jason
03-15-2011, 04:01 PM
I just cut off the mounting flange that would be used to bolt the filter adapter to something, since it was in the way of threading it down onto the block. If you look closely at the pictures you can see where it was cut off when its on the block.

Jason

Jason
03-15-2011, 04:06 PM
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2646.jpg

If you look at the bottom of the adapter, you can see where I cut off the 3 bolt flange, and just threaded it down to the block. Has worked great and no leaks sealing it up with permatex rigid gray silicone.

Jason

IceV_760
08-21-2011, 07:14 AM
Really nice rebuild! And that color on block and head fits really nicely to that car/ eng compartment. Ill like it!
Some technical changes also made.. Waiting too see better quarter-mile time on you when your drived that motor in.

v8volvo
09-05-2011, 02:10 PM
Any updates Jason?

Must be about broken in by now...

Jason
09-06-2011, 10:31 AM
I raced it at the Scheid diesel extravaganza, heres a video, sorry the quality is crappy: http://www.youtube.com/user/vwjunkie53#p/a/u/0/duqL9-ODHWA

Improved on my best 1/8 mile time by over a half second, and was burning the tires off through 1st gear... Power is pretty impressive.

In the video I'm racing common rail dodge cummins auto, even with a boosted launch and getting me off the line, I still mowed him down on the top end!

Jason

IceV_760
09-06-2011, 10:57 AM
Have to say, that thing really starts to look its going somewhere o.O
Are you yourself happy for results? Any plans for future?

Jason
09-06-2011, 11:02 AM
I'm still in the process of collecting parts to build a 12mm injection pump. I bought the head and rotor assembly, but it wouldn't work with the factory cam plate, the plunger was protruding from the bore in the head. I need to order the corresponding cam plate for the cummins 6bt pump that the head is supposed to be for in order for everything to be at the correct measurements I think. Otherwise, the car is pretty much as good as its gonna get I think, just need more fuel and probably a bigger turbo once I get the built pump together, or I may do a compound turbo setup just for the wow factor. I have a T66 turbo which was too big for the engine to spool on its own very well, but as the low pressure turbo to push a few pounds of boost into the current T3/T4 I think it would work nicely. We will see.

Jason

IceV_760
09-06-2011, 11:19 AM
Okay. Compond just sounds so cool. More wow factor you get if you manage to fit it under hood.
I think after measurements at it is possible. Ill go either HX35 or something similiar
as first turbo, ie. the one boosting throught smaller. Ill have correct part number for that
cummins plate if you need. Im ordering myself distributor head and cam plate aswell.

Lets race next summer against others? Little competition? An topic with list
of quarter-mile times, and time-card would be required as an evidence?
Any idea? Any pics for current state of car also?

Jason
09-06-2011, 11:41 AM
I'll get a couple new pics soon... The company I bought the camplate from provided me with a part number, what number do you have? I would like to compair it to what they sent me.

Jason

Jason
09-06-2011, 12:20 PM
Here we are loaded up going to the race at Scheid in Indiana:http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/IMG_20110829_121018.jpg
Obviously the car has the hood stack on at the moment, I changed the wheels to the "snowflake" wheels and now have a dual outlet exhaust tip off the 6.4 powerstroke thats towing it!
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/IMG_20110725_143540.jpg
Close up of the engine... Still looking pretty clean after almost a year on the road.
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/IMG_20110725_141049.jpg

Jason
09-06-2011, 05:27 PM
Also wanted to mention... I had a nice talk with the editor of Diesel Power magazine... He took a few pictures of the volvo and is going to be emailing me to get all the sepcifics on the engine build and whatnot. I expect there to be some D24T coverage in the magazine in the near future... I'll keep you guys updated when I find out more details.

Jason

v8volvo
09-11-2011, 02:15 PM
Holy smokes.

Looks fantastic. Nice to see two diesel Volvos mixing it up with the Powersmokes and Dirtymaxes. :cool: Looks like you showed your taillights to at least a few of them!

michaelovitch
09-12-2011, 05:16 AM
Really nice...

cool fender sticker too

those wheels are great on the 700 series !

Jason
09-12-2011, 05:33 PM
Thanks!

Check out the vid section I found someone else's footage of the event thats really good quality and you can see both volvos race in the first round of eliminations. You can really hear mine screaming at redline in 1st gear burning the tires off.

Jason

Profpinz
10-30-2011, 02:00 PM
Excellent thread Guys.
I'm just about to start rebuilding a D24TIC (probably the only one in Australia as this motor was never imported in any Volvo or VW sold here) so your project Jason, has been a real inspiration.

I'm a Steyr Puch Pinzgauer 6X6 (made in Austria) enthusiast (some say "nut") and have recently imported a late model parts vehicle for use in upgrading another vehicle I have.
The D24 was used in all "second generation" Pinzgauers from 1985 to 2000-2, initially as a turbo charged unit only with later models having intercooling as well.

I'm no diesel expert (pre 1985 Pinzgauers had an aircooled petrol motor) so I'm very glad I found this forum with all the expertise that has been exhibited on this thread.

Keep up the great posts!

Peter
www.ozpinz.com

Jason
11-01-2011, 04:55 PM
Well a D24 in a Steyr Puch is a new one to me! Good think you know your way around them cuz I doubt anyone here will be much help! As for the engine, we should be able to get you going in the right direction. 6x6? sounds like a hell of an off road vehicle... I'm sure the turbo diesel torque will be a welcome addition to your vehicle!

Jason

Profpinz
11-02-2011, 02:03 AM
Thanks Jason. I'm looking forward to this project and I'm sure I'II have lots of questions re the D24.

Here is a video of a D24TIC working in a 718K Pinzgauer.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_Tj13vI3Ss

Peter

Jason
12-27-2011, 06:38 PM
Holy crap that thing is freaking huge!!! Now THAT is cool. They never had those in the states. We never get any of the cool cars over here. What I would do just for a D24 powered LT truck to use as a car hauler for my VW and other vehicles.

Jason

DWL_Puavo
12-27-2011, 10:54 PM
D24 powered LT truck to use as a car hauler for my VW
Our project exactly like that is currently under few cm's of snow, and making it d24btic hasn't had any progress for a few months. Our aircooled VW race car's engine case cracked to oil pressure line behind the flywheel (the same place they weld reinforcement in some of the new cases) so that has to be fixed first. Some new tricks going to be there also, 4x46mm throttle bodies already bought along with pressure sensor for inlet manifold with enough scale... :)

michaelovitch
02-01-2012, 12:43 PM
What thermoswitch do you use ?

i'm working on a E fan conversion and i don't really know what temps it should run and what thermoswitch i should use.
stock temps dash gauges are quite innacurate.

I need some help.

Jason
07-04-2013, 11:11 AM
Been a while since I looked at this thread... Almost forgot how much work I sank into the engine build!

Its been in the car since the end of 2010 and I haven't had a problem with it other than the oil pump gasket blowing out, which I think was caused by one of the 6mm bolts working loose. In hindsight I probably should have put a dab of red locktite on them. I had to drop the crossmember and pull the pan to get the oil pump off. What a pain in my ass.. The bottom of the oil pan inside was totally clean, not a spec of anything so that was nice to see. The engine has around 25 to 30k miles on it now..

Jason

jbg
08-03-2013, 06:17 PM
The pipe you are seeing I blocked off, it used to have a coolant hose to it that ran to the crappy D24t stock water/oil cooler. Being that you have a factory IC engine you have a front mount oil cooler, which is what I installed on my engine.

Jason, its been a few years, but how did you block off this coolant hose that was used for the oil cooler? I'm taking about where the nipple for the hose sticks up vertically from out of the thermostat housing. I removed my oil cooler and I now need to block this one off, thanks.

anders
08-04-2013, 08:41 AM
I'm not sure what Jason did, but I removed the nipple and installed a freeze plug.

jbg
08-04-2013, 11:26 AM
I'm not sure what Jason did, but I removed the nipple and installed a freeze plug.

Anders, that sounds great! How does the nipple come out? Is it press-fit in, or threaded and screwed in place? By any chance do you know the size of the freeze plug you used?

Thanks,

anders
08-04-2013, 12:53 PM
It's pressed in, I used a punch from the inside of the block where the thermostat goes and punched it out. I believe I have the size of it written down somewhere.

anders
08-04-2013, 12:56 PM
Here is a picture of the freeze plug installed.

anders
08-05-2013, 08:38 AM
I didn't find out what size the freeze plug was but I got a Dorman part #555-016. You should be able to bring that number down to a parts store and get the correct plug.

jbg
08-05-2013, 06:21 PM
Anders, thank you buddy, your advise, picture, and part number really helped me out. I was finally able to track down a Dorman "555-016" (23.90mm) freeze plug at a semi-local auto parts dealer. I'll get to installing it tomorrow!

RonRiceRacing
07-12-2016, 12:08 PM
I will be Reading this throu and Throu...!!!

I came across a 85 760 GLE TDI

and I'm looking over your sholder...!!! Thx

Ron

RonRiceRacing
07-12-2016, 12:12 PM
Ohhh NOoooo...!!!

Your a VW Guy too... Hahaha

I was just looking at the first few pix on this thread

RedArrow
06-27-2020, 10:08 AM
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2660.jpg
http://i1004.photobucket.com/albums/af168/vwjunkie53/volvo/102_2662.jpg


Jason I love the idea of the oil monitoring system, could you share what exactly it was? i`d like to have one of those gauges.
Thank you!!