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TGTF
04-10-2010, 01:11 PM
Hello,

I'am Tom From the Netherlands and hav a problem with my car,

I have a Volvo 760 2.4 TD from 1984,
Last week i have replaced all the belt's and oil + filters, when i was done i want too start the engine but its not on time any more,
it runs but not on a proper way, and a lot of smoke some time's black some time's grey, is here some one who can tell me what the problem is and how i can fix t,

Greet's Tom,

jbg
04-10-2010, 02:10 PM
Hello Tom, welcome to the forum. If you suspect your engine / injection timing is incorrect you can refer to this post:

http://www.d24t.com/showpost.php?p=968&postcount=3

Let us know if you have any additional questions, good luck! :D

TGTF
04-10-2010, 02:43 PM
I have that green book, But if I do it how its told me to do according that green book my engine wont start at all,

when I do it totally different so not according the book,

I rotate the engine an camshaft different from each until the cylinder 1 is on time i found out that my camshaft stands different that what the book is telling me, my lobes are standing both down and nut up, now it is running but with a lot of smoke,
if I put the engine on time according the book than it wont run, i tried all the way's that i read but it wont run normal, the garage told me that i need a new pump but this one is 2 years old and 4305 km,s later when its being mount on the engine, he looks very strange and he don't knows what the problem than is,

I do hope that you can help me with other tips what i can try,

already thanks for your reaction,

Greets Tom,

cuaz64
04-11-2010, 02:52 PM
hmmm...maybe your Cold Start Device is "out of sync", changing the injection time incorrectly and giving the smoke as result.

Slobodan
04-11-2010, 03:54 PM
Are you lining up the zero mark on the flywheel and checking the position of cam lobes on cyl #1 they should be both up. there is a mark on the injection pump cog, that should line up with a mark on the pump bracket. Thats close to zero. To time it correctly, you need the special dial indicator and time the pump to .85mm before TDC on the crank. Screw the cold start. Remove it and throw it away.

TGTF
04-12-2010, 02:09 PM
Thanks for the replay's,

Ive removed the first injector en putt special made screwdriver with a round head inside the opening and thorn't the engine and found out that the first cylinder stay's in top it is not moving at all so my next step will be, engine disabling and take a good look from the inside of the engine,

if i have more news i will let you all know it here in this topic,

Greets Tom,

Slobodan
04-12-2010, 06:38 PM
No!!!! Don't pull it apart!!!!

There is a pre chamber in there. Don't mess with it. Do you know where the viewing window is for finding the Zero mark? Its on the Injection pump side of the motor at the back where the engine meets the transmission. If you have the green books, it should teach you everything you need to know about the D24.

v8volvo
04-12-2010, 10:17 PM
Screw the cold start. Remove it and throw it away.

That's a dumb thing to say. How could there be any sound logic behind this advice? The cold start device on these engines works very well and it is necessary for proper operation and engine longevity. I can't see why there would be any sense in removing a working system -- it can only help if it is functioning properly. If it is broken or stuck I can see disabling it for a while until you have time/funds to get it fixed but getting it working properly is cheap and easy and it makes a big difference in starting, smoke, smoothness, and cold driveability. I can't see how chopping it off like I have seen you do makes any sense.

Slobodan
04-13-2010, 06:23 AM
I straight up, hate them.
On a customers car I won't remove it. And I'll correct it if I find somebody is the past set the cold start device up wrong.
I would like to rig up a cable cold start like the VW diesel 4 cyl had. On my own car, I just HATE them, Makes the engine bay cluttered. My motor runs fine without it.

TGTF
04-13-2010, 09:27 AM
No!!!! Don't pull it apart!!!!

There is a pre chamber in there. Don't mess with it. Do you know where the viewing window is for finding the Zero mark? Its on the Injection pump side of the motor at the back where the engine meets the transmission. If you have the green books, it should teach you everything you need to know about the D24.


I must pull it a apart because the first cylinder doesn't moving up and down,
and the other 5 cylinders are doing the job they have too do, the only thing what i am going to do in the first place is removing the oil pan and take a look what the problem is, if i can't fix it from the bottom, than i have too take the engine apart, but than i'm going too revise the entire engine,

today i'm going too take the oil out and oil pan removing and take a look, but if i know more i will let you all know here,

ngoma
04-13-2010, 04:29 PM
I must pull it a apart because the first cylinder doesn't moving up and down,
Tell us again how you tested this? Explain your method better if you can. Because it looks like you put something in the pre chamber and rotated the engine to see if the piston would move the (whatever you put in the pre chamber) up and down.

The base of the pre chamber separates the pre chamber from the piston, except for a small hole. Were you actually able to get the (whatever you put in the pre chamber) to go thru the injector hole, thru the pre chamber, thru the small hole in the base of the pre chamber, to actually contact the top of the piston? I don't think it is a straight shot.

bjs2oo7
05-04-2010, 02:08 PM
You can't feel the top of the piston through the hole for injector anyways, you could try glow plug hole but its at such an angle you will only feel it top out. I'm sure it's pumping if the cars running

hvguy
05-04-2010, 02:40 PM
if you wanted to get real technical you could buy a boroscope camera and drop it down into the glowplug hole and physically see the piston top out :D

bjs2oo7
05-04-2010, 07:41 PM
yea or you could just check the compression

TGTF
05-06-2010, 01:22 PM
Thanks for the info,

I find out that i really need a micro meter for the diesel pump, I've ordered the micro meter and half may it must be delivered so until than just be patient :D


Greets Tom,

fudge
05-13-2010, 01:49 PM
In the workshop in around 1994 a Golf GTI 1.8 came in after the owner changed the timing belt. It had half the power it should and barely ran below 2000 rpm, smoked black and backfired too.
I assumed that he had messed up the timing marks when doing the job himself, (although he insisted he had done it by the book)
I removed the timing belt, set the flywheel marker to T.D.C, aligned the cam pully marks correctly and adjusted the distributor (intermediate shaft) marks correctly.
Guess what , it ran like s**t, i had made the same assumptions as the cars owner.
A dial gauge through the plug hole revealed the FACTORY marks on the flywheel to be nearly 30degrees BTDC not TDC .
I re-marked the flywheel for tdc and strobe timing and built it up, the result was a happy owner and a happy golf (rabbit in the usa) motor car.
Ever since i have always checked for TDC with the dial gauge when changing a timing belt . But so far this was the only case i have come across in hundreds of cars .
The golf flywheel has an aysemetric bolt pattern so it cannot be fitted wrongly, i has to have been a mis-stamp on the production line, i assume they make d24 flywheels in a similar foundery in germany or wherever so there you are,cheers and thanks for reading my rambles , fudge