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View Full Version : Typical Average MPG unmodded?


Josh
07-06-2009, 01:23 PM
Hey guys, what kind of gas mileage are you getting with your D24Ts? My 740 TD wagon AUTO(:() seems to be getting around 500 or so miles per tank... so about 33MPG. Anyone getting higher than that?

Anyone that have modded getting better gas mileage?

I'm looking to see if I can do anything to hit 40... Wonder if its possible.

reed
07-07-2009, 06:05 AM
Mix of city and interstate. 25mpg. Auto trans. I paln on installing rebuilt injectors with bigger nozzels and set to 2500 psi. I have all the shims for the injectors and the Volvo injector tester/cleaner. All I need to do is order the new nozzels and get off of my lazy a$$

Jason
07-07-2009, 06:06 AM
Depending on what kind of mufflers the car has, (sometimes they are replaced with muffler shop non diesel mufflers that are restrictive) I would throw them away. If noise is a concern, install a straight through diesel muffler. Other than clogged exhaust/dirty air filter, the single biggest thing that will affect mileage is the injection timming. More timming will net you better mileage. Assuming your injectors are not worn out. Time it at the top of the spectrum. You can go farther, though it will have more injection rattle, and I have found they idle a little rougher. I would try to get the timming between .90 to .95mm. If you have very high mileage, you may want to think about getting your injectors pop tested, or possibly rebuilt. 33 mpg isn't bad, depending on your commute. Is that a mix of city and highway, mostly highway? The auto will get good mileage on the highway, with the lockup converter. Around town is where the manual will show the mileage advantage, since the auto wont lock unless your going around 50 mph.

My auto has been getting around 30mpg, but that has been with me running the crap outa it, and blowing lots of smoke on the ricers around town...

Jason

Jason
07-07-2009, 06:07 AM
Reed, hat nozzles are you planning to use?

Sorry not meaning to hijack your thread...

Jason

reed
07-07-2009, 06:14 AM
I was thinking about running the 253 nozzels. The d24tic ran the 293. I thought it would be a good start.

Jason
07-07-2009, 06:24 AM
Is that the part number or?

Jason

Josh
07-07-2009, 01:42 PM
I'm planning on putting a straight through 2.5" exhaust on it when I get the money. How do you adjust the injector timing? How does that affect power?

Also, I just rolled over to 113k miles on my car today, high miles right? ;)

cuaz64
07-07-2009, 04:04 PM
I'm planning on putting a straight through 2.5" exhaust on it when I get the money. How do you adjust the injector timing? How does that affect power?

Also, I just rolled over to 113k miles on my car today, high miles right? ;)

in turbobricks you can find premade exhaust systems for a good price. Also,timing affect power/fuel consumption as in a gas engine. Based on info form volvoturbodiesel.blogspot.com, changing the timing help to have a better fuel combustion or something, supposedly, a well tuned pump, an intercooler, good quality fuel and careful driving, can push the MPG to 40. Slobodan gets 38MPG with his car.:eek:

Jason
07-07-2009, 05:07 PM
To adjust your timing, you'll need the dial indicator and special ve pump fixture to hold it. Advancing the timing will do a couple good things, such as improve mileage, reduce smoke, and usually gives you more crisp throttle response (compaired to retarded timing). 2.5" exhaust would be nice, but the stock size isn't any smaller that the turbo outlet to begin with. If your not looking to make more power, just removing the mufflers should be fine to help it breathe. As I said, you can always install another just make sure its a diesel muffler.

Here is the timing adjustment procedure:

http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p2.jpg
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p3.jpg
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/2157/1425/1600/p41.jpg

Jason

oregon101
07-12-2009, 08:05 PM
I'm getting about 26-28 in city driving. My 760 has the four speed auto.

Josh
07-12-2009, 09:13 PM
So I just drove from Eugene to Seattle and looks like I got about 32.7MPG on the trip. Not too bad for carrying 5 people and luggage for a weekend

Jason
07-13-2009, 07:16 PM
I wouldn't complain about that.. Between being a wagon, and being full of stuff, 33mpg is solid.

Have you tried any of the suggestions that were listed for improving the mileage?

Jason

v8volvo
07-27-2009, 01:01 PM
My D24T/M46 745 averaged about 31 mpg driving cross-country (Boston-Denver-Seattle) a couple months ago with an incredible load on it. You can see a track of my fuel mileage here: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/v8volvo/740

It probably could have done better if it didn't look like this...
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/1135/p1010002fns.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/4458/p1010006qer.jpg

oregon101
07-27-2009, 08:09 PM
I just saw your information on fuelly yesterday!;)

oregon101
07-31-2009, 03:40 AM
I just made my first long drive with my Volvo. We averaged 31 mpg. That was from Salem to Grants Pass out rafting on the river and back to Salem with 3 people, a full trunk and triple digit heat the whole time. I think that was not to bad.

Slobodan
08-15-2009, 09:09 PM
D24T+IC in 245, 3 inch side exit, .60 A/R compressor 14.5psi boost, and M46.
Nets me a solid 30mpg no matter what - city/hiway/slow/fast... doesn't matter.

oregon101
08-28-2009, 09:31 PM
At what RPM range are people getting the best MPG? On my car 2500rpm on the tach gets to about 60MPH and 2900rpm gets me to 70MPH. What is everyone else at? This seems kind of high to me. I am used to my 7.3 diesel redlining at 3000-3500rpm.

Jason
08-29-2009, 04:04 AM
The lower the better. These engines can rev higher than the average diesel engine, but less rpms will be less fuel. My turbodiesel jetta was the same way. Every 5mph or so faster you went, the mpg went down 1 or 2.

Jason

reed
08-29-2009, 10:58 AM
I set the cruise at 80mph a/c on going to the beach, dont remember the rpm but got about 25mpg. It drove like I was on auto pilot.

oregon101
09-13-2009, 12:36 PM
I adjusted the pump and switched my oil to the shell synthetic 5/40. I ran my first tank of fuel and got 30 mpg with only in town driving. Is anyone else running synthetic oil?

v8volvo
09-13-2009, 05:22 PM
EVERYONE should be running synthetic. ;)

oregon101
11-02-2009, 04:43 AM
The wife just went from Salem to Seattle this weekend and got 34 mpg. We have started running a quart of two stroke oil in each tank and the mpg has gone up 1-3 mpg depending on city or highway.

IceV_760
11-02-2009, 05:09 AM
EVERYONE should be running synthetic. ;)

One interesting point; mine runs better with 10w-30 semisynth (assembler
recommended) meaning, it dont burn ANY oil during trip from one oil change to another, nor push it from any seal. When i used once 5w-40 Full synth,
it burned about half litre during one trip, and pushed it little through one seal.
Unhappily i need to use that 5w-40 since winter, 10w-30 wont work on winter
very good. And sound is smoother with 10w-30 semi-synth.
Its truck oil by the way^^. But i wouldnt never drag my hands into mieral oil, big no no.

Jason
11-04-2009, 04:51 AM
I think Tom Bryant recomends 5-30 synthetic. I'm running 5w40 Rotella synthetic in my car. I just did a 600 mile round tip, and probably burned about a quart of oil. I was running pretty hard though, doing 75 to 80 mph. Even with the oil seperator, I think a large part of it is going into the intake. I'm planning on stuffing it with some steel wool.

Average mpg was 34. Not bad for cruising as fast as I was. I would expect I would get 36 or better if I was going 60 to 65.

Jason

v8volvo
11-04-2009, 07:22 AM
I used Amsoil Series 3000 5W30 in the '85 wagon when I drove it across the country over the summer (Boston to Seattle). It never used a drop except for the day I drove from Missoula, MT to Seattle -- climbing several major mountain passes in western Montana and Idaho in 100F heat with a massive load in the car caused oil temps to shoot sky high, and the 5W30 must have just gotten so thin that a bunch slipped past the rings and valve guides. I was down about 3/4 of a quart at the end of that day. If I had had a proper oil cooler rather than the dumb VW coolant heat exchanger in the car I think things would have stayed better under control, and I might run 15W40 Amsoil marine grade oil in the future during the summer since my cars are often subjected to very hard mountain driving with big loads in hot weather.

Starting to prepare the 745 for another long trip, from Seattle down through Wyoming to New Mexico then back via LA and up through California, in the middle of January. Will probably run 5W30 for that one.

Jason
11-04-2009, 05:46 PM
Ya I'm not sure how much is being burned and how much is just sucked into the intake. My car has got 170k miles so I'm sure its burning some oil anyway. If I drive it normal throughout the week to and from work it doesn't burn any oil at all, but an evening of hard driving messing around with it and I can burn some...
Is that Amsoil 3000 a diesel rated oil?

Jason

v8volvo
11-04-2009, 06:41 PM
The Series 3000 is the best lightweight diesel oil on the market. Good thing too, since it costs an arm and a leg... you need $80 worth to do an oil change on a D24T! Add in a good filter and oil changes are nearly a hundred bucks. Good thing you don't have to do em that often...

Josh
11-04-2009, 07:07 PM
The Series 3000 is the best lightweight diesel oil on the market. Good thing too, since it costs an arm and a leg... you need $80 worth to do an oil change on a D24T! Add in a good filter and oil changes are nearly a hundred bucks. Good thing you don't have to do em that often...

Except for those of us that drive 3000 miles every month and a half :(... I drive from Eugene to Portland and back just about every weekend. $100 is quite a lot to have to spend every 2 months or so. I'm at 3300 miles on this change so far and I'm hoping I can just afford an oil change before January when I get my next installment of money from school.. :(

Josh
11-08-2009, 11:51 PM
As an update, I managed 36.5mpg going a strict 55mph from Eugene to Salem on HWY99 this weekend. :D 'twas awesome! Needle didn't even move from full.

77volvo245
11-12-2009, 09:50 PM
I'm seeing 34mpg on my D24. Not bad for how bad it's running.:o

v8volvo
11-13-2009, 07:13 PM
Except for those of us that drive 3000 miles every month and a half :(... I drive from Eugene to Portland and back just about every weekend. $100 is quite a lot to have to spend every 2 months or so. I'm at 3300 miles on this change so far and I'm hoping I can just afford an oil change before January when I get my next installment of money from school.. :(

When I said "good thing you don't have to change it that often" I meant only every 10k or so. The cost for synthetic ends up about the same since you change it less than one third as frequently, but end up with much better engine wear protection. Syn does not wear out so there is no reason whatsoever to change it every 3k. With 10k OCIs at your mileage rate you will only need to change your synthetic about twice a year.

IceV_760
11-14-2009, 02:50 AM
You have quite a long changeing program.
I will change every 6250miles, and im ny opinion even that is long when
we compare it to what Volvo recommends, at they should be changed every
3125miles, what my cars previous owned wonderfully followed.
But same here, i cant afford to change motor oils every 3k miles.
Now in winter i use 5w-40 full synth, but when spring comes ill change
them back to 10w-30 semi-synth truck oils, they are goodie.

v8volvo
11-14-2009, 09:44 AM
True it's more than Volvo recommends, but modern synthetics are so much better than what was available at the time that recommendation was written that it is mostly irrelevant. A D24T has an oil capacity of about 7 liters, which is a lot of oil, and you probably add a bit over the course of 10,000 miles as well. Add all that together and I don't think there is any way you could wear out a good synthetic oil in less than 10,000 miles -- probably even 10,000 is conservative, in fact. VW TDIs go over 10k on OCIs and they are much more highly-stressed engines.

Tom Bryant recommends oil changes at 25,000 miles. That's too much for me, but I think 10,000 or even 15,000 makes a lot of sense. It's also better for the environment -- less waste oil dumped down the drain.

IceV_760
11-14-2009, 10:35 AM
It's also better for the environment -- less waste oil dumped down the drain.

You allready lost the game when you bought d24,
i could say ^^

Sweedspeed18
02-04-2010, 08:39 PM
But same here, i cant afford to change motor oils every 3k miles.


I realize I am new to the forum, so forgive me for my n00b-ness..
But are you being serious, or is that a joke?

Jason
02-05-2010, 04:49 AM
He is in Europe, and judging by what fuel costs, I would bet synthetic oil over there is pricey. The engine holds amost two gallons of oil!

Jason

Volvo_242_Diesel(Finland)
02-05-2010, 07:16 AM
My best with originalpump 40mpg... if i drive fast then about 28-30mpg :)

piper109
02-05-2010, 01:42 PM
Which gallon are you using ? US or Imperial?
How many litres to 100km?

10 litres to 100km is about 28 GPM (imperial) or 22.4 mpg (US)

Thanks,

Steve

Volvo_242_Diesel(Finland)
02-05-2010, 11:45 PM
Which gallon are you using ? US or Imperial?
How many litres to 100km?

10 litres to 100km is about 28 GPM (imperial) or 22.4 mpg (US)

Thanks,

Steve

Best 7,04 litre to 100km. On the hard drive something 8-10 litre to 100km.

Sweedspeed18
02-07-2010, 09:58 AM
9He is in Europe, and judging by what fuel costs, I would bet synthetic oil over there is pricey. The engine holds amost two gallons of oil!

Jason

It takes 2 full 4 quart containers?
Jeez, how big is the oil pan??

piper109
02-07-2010, 10:10 AM
If you are going to do an oil change, you would need to buy 2 gallons jugs of oil because many buy oil that way rather than buy individual quarts.
I believe its actually close to seven quarts needed. The D24T oil pan has a large reservoir where the oil pump pick-up is.

There are other cars out there that use much bigger oil pans than that.
Actually I like to keep the oil level about 1/4" above the full mark in winter as the engine rattles less on startup (probably piston slap is reduced).

Steve

Jason
02-07-2010, 12:22 PM
The owner's manual lists the engine capacity at 7.5 qts with filter change. I always just dump in two gallons. I too keep the engine a little over full. The higher level helps the engine get oil pressure more quickly on startup. Less run time without oil pressure is less engine wear!

As for winter weather start up rattle??? Ha ha mine sounds like a rock tumbler going ouside, and thats running 5w-40! I can't immagine this thing running with 15w-40 at 15 or 20 degrees!

Jason

piper109
02-07-2010, 04:00 PM
Yebbut...thats because you have the IP timing a bit north of the book value:D

Steve


As for winter weather start up rattle??? Ha ha mine sounds like a rock tumbler going ouside, and thats running 5w-40! I can't immagine this thing running with 15w-40 at 15 or 20 degrees!

Jason

Jason
02-08-2010, 11:22 AM
Really I'm not all that much over advanced, I backed it off so I wouldn't blow the head gasket (hopefully). I'm only running right at 1.0 or just above.

Jason

RLDSL
04-01-2010, 01:13 PM
Except for those of us that drive 3000 miles every month and a half :(... I drive from Eugene to Portland and back just about every weekend. $100 is quite a lot to have to spend every 2 months or so. I'm at 3300 miles on this change so far and I'm hoping I can just afford an oil change before January when I get my next installment of money from school.. :(

I don't quite get it. Why would you need to change that stuff in only 2 months if you are only driving 6000 miles? You'd be throwing away perfectly good oil. Unlike Mobil 1, this stuff is actually RATED for 25000 miles in a diesel and if using the Amsoil filter, it's rated for the same . They have recently been forced to downgrade change intervals for diesels across the board, but these new low figures do not apply to our older engines, this is only due to these newfangled modern computer controlled diesels that are having a bad problem with fuel dilution . They've been finding that all that fancy multiple firing per stroke has been leading to a lot of unburnt fuel finding it's way past rings and it's leading to premature lubricant wasting due to fuel dilution , but that has nothing to do with our old beasts, the old 25000 mile change interval still applies. That would get you about 8 months on a change, and if you installed a bypass filter on it, you could leave the same stuff in there for years, just send a sample in once a year for testing to make sure everythings OK.

Jason
04-05-2010, 05:29 AM
I would have to agree, unless you are running a bypass soot filtration setup. By the time you buy all that crap, you could have just changed the oil anyway for the same or less money. Its the lifeblood of the engine, I don't get why people always want to push the limit on change intervals. Its not that expensive! Just change the damn oil!

Jason

v8volvo
04-05-2010, 10:47 PM
25k miles is too long for ANY diesel engine, especially a high emissions IDI engine. You must do an OA to determine the soot load your engine puts on the oil to know how long its safe to use the oil.

The oil brand, type and weight doesn't matter, none of it changes the soot deposit rate of the engine. Once it gets to 4% load, you're putting the engine bearing's life on the line.

Don't fully agree with you here. Different oils have different degrees of ability to hold soot in suspension. For instance, if you were using a gasoline-engine oil in your diesel you would have a very limited oil life due to those oils' not being designed to deal with diesel soot deposits. Conversely, if you are running a high-quality diesel-rated synthetic oil, and your car is running properly (aka cleanly with good compression and injectors) and you are not blowing black smoke like a tire fire at all times (Jason's car need not apply :D), and you are using modern ultra-low-sulfur fuel or better yet biodiesel or some blend of the two, AND you are using the engine as it was designed to be used (longer-distance driving, long periods of running at operating temp, not quick hops around town), AND you are using a high-quality filter, I see no reason why your oil should not last 20-25,000 miles.

If you are not following the above directions, though, then even changing it every 3000 miles may not be enough to protect your engine from premature wear. I think with diesels the engine's long-haul longevity and health have as much or more to do with the pattern of how they are used as how they are maintained. You can have one that had the oil changed every 2500 and all maintenance done by the book that is completely worn out by 100k, or you can have one that had the oil changed every 10,000 and the maintenance slacked off a bit, but driven on the highway, and still running strong at 300k. All depends on the pattern of how and when it was driven.