So the car is not dead

[noitulover]

But I only have 2 weeks to get it fixed.

I have a small leak in the gaskets on the hydraulic steering column. The shop says i need to replace the whole rack and pinion steering mechanism, is that true?

I have a 1982 240 gl

everything else besides a bald edge of the front left wheel, is really in great shape. I am so lucky to have found this car. I plan on driving it to 500K. it's at 377K and still running strong.(well it is kinda slow but i love it to death anyways)

[v8volvo]

You need to rebuild the steering rack. If that is not something that you are able or want to tackle on your own, you will need to replace it with a rebuilt one. Those are a few hundred bucks, so not bad, or you could try your luck with a used one. It's not a difficult job -- the only tricky part if you haven't done it before is popping the balljoints on the outer tie rod ends, but you can rent a tool that makes that job easy. The rest is a snap, just 2 U-bolts that hold the rack to the crossmember, then the 2 power steering hose banjo connectins (one large bolt each), and you're out. If you have a balljoint tool the whole job will take you 20 minutes, including jacking the car up. You will have to get it aligned after you put the new rack in.

Rebuilding the rack yourself is not a huge deal -- they are pretty simple inside if you are able to find the rebuild parts, seals, etc -- but it means more downtime for the car because after you get the rack out, you have to leave the car taken apart while you redo the rack. If you have a rebuilt or good used rack already on hand when you remove the old leaky one, then you can have the car back on the road and all fixed in just an hour or two.

You're already more than halfway to 500k. Why not set a higher goal than that? :D If you take care of it (change the timing belt on schedule, use synthetic oil, take it slow when the engine is cold, and don't overheat it), it will probably last to a million. :cool:

[noitulover]

You need to rebuild the steering rack. If that is not something that you are able or want to tackle on your own, you will need to replace it with a rebuilt one. Those are a few hundred bucks, so not bad, or you could try your luck with a used one. It's not a difficult job -- the only tricky part if you haven't done it before is popping the balljoints on the outer tie rod ends, but you can rent a tool that makes that job easy. The rest is a snap, just 2 U-bolts that hold the rack to the crossmember, then the 2 power steering hose banjo connectins (one large bolt each), and you're out. If you have a balljoint tool the whole job will take you 20 minutes, including jacking the car up. You will have to get it aligned after you put the new rack in.

Rebuilding the rack yourself is not a huge deal -- they are pretty simple inside if you are able to find the rebuild parts, seals, etc -- but it means more downtime for the car because after you get the rack out, you have to leave the car taken apart while you redo the rack. If you have a rebuilt or good used rack already on hand when you remove the old leaky one, then you can have the car back on the road and all fixed in just an hour or two.

You're already more than halfway to 500k. Why not set a higher goal than that? :D If you take care of it (change the timing belt on schedule, use synthetic oil, take it slow when the engine is cold, and don't overheat it), it will probably last to a million. :cool:

Thanks for the great advice! I will take the best care of her that I can. I still have to figure out what all these extra parts that came with the car are for as well... and welding and metal work...gotta figure that one out. I have this big old mig i need to learn how to use. I think i'm going to try on my truck bed first...i have a f350 with the 7.3 L international...and a dump steak-body bed that is totally rusted out.

[v8volvo]

I think you mean stake body.

I would be very interesteted to see what a steak body truck looks like. :D :D

I don't think you can weld steak either, unless you are good at welding with ketchup.

Sorry... :p

[noitulover]

sir, currently ketchup is the only think i know how to weld with.

i was wondering though, is it really better to weld? can't i just seal it up with that joint compound stuff for cars? isn't there something like that usually used for body work?

[Jason]

To do it "right" the panels should be welded in. What you are thinking of is automotive seam sealer. It is used to seal over welds or where panels overlap to keep moisture out. Once your panel is welded in, I like to prime over the welds and bare metal with a rust inhibiting primer, then seam seal it, then top coat. VW bodies were welded together and seam sealed over the bare metal. The metal ends up rusting under the seam sealer as some moister always gets through and then the seam sealer holds it there. Many VWs I have done rust repair and restoration work on have more rust around the seam sealed areas. Priming first well alow everything to be coated and all bare metal to be covered and should give the longest lasting repair. I have been doing it that way on all the cars we restore at the shop and everything that has come back is staying rust free. Here in the midwest, thats saying something! Sutff rusts out here just from the humidity!

Jason

[noitulover]

cool, thanks jason.

Does that mean I should buy the whole panel new from a dealer and cut out the old one with an angle grinder or a reciprocating saw?

[noitulover]

so i bought the power rack unit today. found it at jk auto for about 270 after i return the core. the guy told me volvos take ATF instead of power steering fluid, is that true?

[v8volvo]

They will be OK with either. ATF is fine.

[Slobodan]

use ATF, it is a crime to use power steering fluid!
Same goes for the manual transmission. for the love of GOD do not use MTL in your M45,M46, and M47. Always use ATF.

Once a month on average we get customers that went to jiffy lube or oil can henry's and now there rack leaks. So I ask them if they touched the power steering unit. yes they flushed it they reply.... I check the fluid and its clear. Gosh maybe thats why the rack seals blew out. customer calls up jiffy lube, and tries to get them to pay for the new rack because of their stupidity.

And yes they will put gear lube in the manual transmissions. It whipes out the OD and makes reverse not work so great.


Use ATF use ATF use ATF!!!!!
:)

[v8volvo]

use ATF, it is a crime to use power steering fluid!
Same goes for the manual transmission. for the love of GOD do not use MTL in your M45,M46, and M47. Always use ATF.

Once a month on average we get customers that went to jiffy lube or oil can henry's and now there rack leaks. So I ask them if they touched the power steering unit. yes they flushed it they reply.... I check the fluid and its clear. Gosh maybe thats why the rack seals blew out. customer calls up jiffy lube, and tries to get them to pay for the new rack because of their stupidity.

And yes they will put gear lube in the manual transmissions. It whipes out the OD and makes reverse not work so great.


Use ATF use ATF use ATF!!!!!
:)

I've never had an issue using normal power steering fluid in a Volvo, but you probably see more of them than I do... sounds like I better change my steering fluid out. Good to know.

Why do you say not to use MTL in the M46? I have heard nothing but positive reports about it. Everyone I have asked says it works great in M46s. I just bought a bunch to install into my 764 next week. What's the issue?

[noitulover]

use ATF, it is a crime to use power steering fluid!
Same goes for the manual transmission. for the love of GOD do not use MTL in your M45,M46, and M47. Always use ATF.

Once a month on average we get customers that went to jiffy lube or oil can henry's and now there rack leaks. So I ask them if they touched the power steering unit. yes they flushed it they reply.... I check the fluid and its clear. Gosh maybe thats why the rack seals blew out. customer calls up jiffy lube, and tries to get them to pay for the new rack because of their stupidity.

And yes they will put gear lube in the manual transmissions. It whipes out the OD and makes reverse not work so great.


Use ATF use ATF use ATF!!!!!
:)
I have a m46. you are saying never to use gear lube in the man. trans. i never go to jiffy lube or anywhere really. so just use ATF?

[noitulover]

I've never had an issue using normal power steering fluid in a Volvo, but you probably see more of them than I do... sounds like I better change my steering fluid out. Good to know.

Why do you say not to use MTL in the M46? I have heard nothing but positive reports about it. Everyone I have asked says it works great in M46s. I just bought a bunch to install into my 764 next week. What's the issue?

tricky tricky...

[v8volvo]

ATF is the fluid Volvo specifies as the correct fill for the M46. However, they also specifiy that 10W30 or 10W40 is equally acceptable in areas where temperatures don't get too low (some very low number that never occurs around here). Redline MTL is a recommended replacement in applications specifying 10W30 oil in the gearbox, so according to that logic it ought to be fine in the M46.

Kevin what problems have you seen with MTL? And in your experience, does it matter what kind of ATF is used in the steering? I think the Volvo spec is to use Type F, but it seems like regular Dex/Merc ought to be fine as well...

[noitulover]

ok, so i got the steering rack out today, and the new one in. on the sheet that came with it, it says i need to flush the fluid out of the pump. in order to do that i need to crank the engine without starting it. i am having trouble finding the wire i need to disconnect to do this.

I also got a new tire to replace the worn one. it was warn on the outside edge of the front left, so it needed an allignment anyways. i also cleaned the car up a bit, and am installing a subwoofer in the trunk. I'll probably get a new head unit a little down the road too.

i think i'm going to start a garage thread with pictures.

[noitulover]

btw, getting that steering rack out was a real bitch. the tool they were trying to rent me was going for 160 per day....so i said ef that. the 10 tool sold in stores did nothing but squish the grease out, so i ended up grabbing a 3 foot prybar, wedging that in there between the tie rod and the main wheel mount bracket really well, then standing on it, and jumping repeatedly. i weigh about 200 and there was at least a 10:1 ratio on that bar. i was jumping so with my weight and the g forces, i would estimate the force necessary to get it off was about 3000 pounds. oh, and i had to take the aftermarket sway bar off to get the u brackets off... but it's cool, i got it done, just took closer to 8 hours in total for me, instead of 20 minutes. i didn't do an alignment, though it's not pulling at all. i rotated the tires so i have the back, with good thread in the front now. good enough for now...

[John Davies]

If you mean a ball joint separator, the best type is the one meant for small HGV's or vans. The cheap ones from accessory shops are intended for more puny vehicles!

Separating joints with a prybar can cause distortion.

Mine was made by Sykes-pickavant and bought for £12.00 from ebay. New ones are about £70 -120 new dependant on manufacturer..

Regards

John D

[noitulover]

If you mean a ball joint separator, the best type is the one meant for small HGV's or vans. The cheap ones from accessory shops are intended for more puny vehicles!

Separating joints with a prybar can cause distortion.

Mine was made by Sykes-pickavant and bought for £12.00 from ebay. New ones are about £70 -120 new dependant on manufacturer..

Regards

John D

is a HGV like a SUV?

i got it right next to the ball joint so i think it was all gravy. didn't notice any distortions. thanks for the heads up though.

[volvo d6]

HGV=Stationwagon:D

[noitulover]

yo. thanks, cool