D24 N00b..

[Sweedspeed18]

Hello D24T.com users!
My name is John and I am 19 years old.
I was linked to this site after asking some questions on Turbobricks.com.

So I just purchased my first 240, and I am quite excited to say it is equipped with a factory D24 and M46!
I have been into Volvo's for the past few years, but mostly 850's and x70's.
And a 240 has always been on my wish-list, along with something diesel.
Now I get to have the best of both worlds :D

So I have heard/read that the D24 is not as resilient as the D24t.
The block is a softer alloy, no piston squirters, weaker rods, yadda yadda.

Is there anyone on here who has experience turbocharging a D24?
Not a D24t!
I saw one video on youtube where someone turbo'd their D24, and it was niice.

Well, if anyone can help me find a solution for breaking 100bhp, I would really be appreciative :p

Thanks,
John

[Jason]

Hello John and welcome!

The D24 block is supposed to be a softer alloy because of a lower nickle content, though i don't know how much a problem it is for strength, probably more of a cylinder wear issue. The crank and rods are the same, and yes it doesn't have oil squirters but if your not pushing 20lbs of boost drag racing the thing I wouldn't worry about it. When adding a turbo, you will want to add an intercooler and a oil cooler. Try messaging either George (v8volvo) or Kevin (slobodan) on here. They both have lots of engines/used parts and may have an exhaust manifold to spare. Your intake manifold is already great for turbocharing as it has the big snout out front to plumb your tubing into thats comming from the intercooler your going to install! You can probably also find yourself a used stock turbo if your wanting to go that route. Between the turbo, intercooler, and some pump tuning you should be well over 100 reliable hp assuming your engine is in good shape.

Jason

[Sweedspeed18]

The problem I have heard is premature bore wear, but that is what I have heard, and I don't know this by first hand experience.
I was thinking around 10-13 psi would be a safe assumption for future plans.
I have a 13g from my older 850 LPT, so that will do the job for a while :p
Intercooler and oil cooler is definitely a good idea.
Yea, I noticed how large the "snout" and plenum was, for something n/a.
I might weld up an exhaust manifold, utilizing some of the stock manifold.
depending on whether or not I can find a D24T manifold.
Either way, 80 BHP in 1984 is not going to work for me..
I think it is safe to assume that it doesn't have 80 hp anymore haha.

But it's a pretty nice set up:
1984 quad square front end wagon
D24
M46
Leather interior
O.K. exterior, in need of a respray and new hatch (although the guy I am buying it from is giving me a spare hatch)

It hasn't run in a while and needs:
A new battery
To have the fuel system cleaned
And all fluids exchanged.

Not too shabby for $450 ;)

Sorry for the extremely long 2nd post haha.
Thanks,
John

[Jason]

Sounds like a good deal for $450. The bores do tend to wear worse on the NA blocks, but its a combination of the softer alloy and the build up of soot they tend to get around the rings. Without the turbo to push in some air and help clean things up, they get sooted up over time. That is just like rubbing sand paper up and down the cylinder walls constantly. Make sure to run some good oil in it, such as 5w-40 synthetic. Rotella T is always the cheapest around here, Waly-world has it for $19 a gallon.

Jason

[Sweedspeed18]

Sounds like a good deal for $450. The bores do tend to wear worse on the NA blocks, but its a combination of the softer alloy and the build up of soot they tend to get around the rings. Without the turbo to push in some air and help clean things up, they get sooted up over time. That is just like rubbing sand paper up and down the cylinder walls constantly. Make sure to run some good oil in it, such as 5w-40 synthetic. Rotella T is always the cheapest around here, Waly-world has it for $19 a gallon.

Jason

That is what I have also heard..
I'll turbo it once I get the thing running up to par.
I might yank the motor out and fix it up a bit, but we will see how nicely I can get it running while installed.
Yea, I usually get my oil from walmart.
I could care less if I save money on my oil by buying it at walmart, but apparently that is taboo on Volvospeed :p

Well thanks Jason, you seem to know your D24's.

[Jason]

Thanks, I'm by no means a huge expert, but I do own the forum, so you would hope I would have something usefull to contribute!

As for wal-mart, ya ya your supporting the massive wal-mart machine but guess what, the oil is cheap! With the way these things like to use it I need to save where I can!

Jason

[cuaz64]

mmm....put a turbo on a D24 engine is almost Plug and play thing, check in turbobricks for the 500dollar744ti user. You need:

D24T exhaust manifold
Turbo and oil lines from same car
the LDA part of the injection pump (is optional)
Oil cooler from a gas Volvo
intercooler from ebay

[Sweedspeed18]

Jason, are you saying these things chew through a lot of oil?

To cuaz64:
Yea, that list seems extremely do-able.
What is the LDA part?
Why do the lines need to be from the same car?
Or is that just another way to keep this +T a little easier?

[v8volvo]

They can use a lot of oil or none at all -- seems to be a big range of variation. Depends on how many miles and how worn out they are.

Tips if you want the motor to last:
1. Don't overheat it. Make sure all cooling components are in good shape.
2. Make sure the front timing belt gets changed if it needs it -- engine will implode if it breaks so if in doubt get it taken care of. If you have it changed, be sure to have it done by someone who has the correct tools and know-how, or if you do it yourself, make sure you know what you are doing. This is the most crucial job on the engine and if done wrong, at best it will run crappy and at worst it will blow up.
3. Make sure it is properly tuned -- cam and pump timing set correctly, cold start device functional and properly calibrated. That's it as far as tuning these engines, and you only have to do it every 75,000 miles... but when you do it, make sure it is done right so that you can really not worry about it until the next 75k rolls around.
4. Make sure all glow plugs are functional, and always replace dead ones right away because leaving them can shorten the lives of the other plugs and cause serious starting issues, even if there is only one plug out.
5. Use good diesel-rated synthetic oil, whatever is your preferred brand. AMSoil and Lubro-Moly are my favorites but Mobil 1 TDT/Delvac 1, Rotella Syn, etc are good choices as well. Use a good filter (Mahle, WIX or Mann). Then change it every 5000 miles, no need for 3k changes with syn.

If you do all of those things, it will be an extremely efficient, reliable, and cheap to own engine and will outlast anything on the road. If you neglect them, it will turn into an unreliable, expensive PITA and die an early death. Sorry if I am being blunt. :p These are great engines that don't deserve the bad rep they get, but they are only great if maintained right. They got their rep from people thinking they could get away without doing the key things listed above, and then when the poor abused motor died an early death they blamed the car rather than recognizing that it was their own fault.

It would be a good idea to cover all the basics above before considering +T stuff. However, I know how it can be to live with 80hp and how nice a turbo can be. The big immediate stuff is just making sure the timing belt doesn't break and using good oil. The rest you can worry about over time. +T might be an OK idea as long as you keep the boost down, use good oil and keep it cool, and don't run it hard for long periods of time. If you put a turbo on it then try to drive it up a mountain pass, it will have issues.

Congrats on joining the Volvo diesel cult! There are not many of us but everyone else doesn't know what they're missing. :D Where are you located and how many miles on the car? I used to have a 245 Diesel and miss it often. Slow, but something about them makes them fun to ride around in anyway...

[Jason]

As George said, some may not use oil, but unless yours has been rebuilt, its probably got a few miles on it and its going to burn, leak, and blow by some oil (as mine does). Granted, my car has 165k miles on it, and I highly doubt the first owners used synthetic oil, so its got some wear. Also depends how you drive it. I run the crap outa mine and it pushes some oil into the intake when its getting spun up to 5k rpms even with the oil seperator. Drive normal, and the only oil it uses is what it leaks out from the front crank pulley... Either way, you will really enjoy the car once you get the turbo on there! Also, the Mobil 1 filter is also a high quality filter choice and sometimes easier to find than the Wix or Mann filters. Autozone carrys the Mobil one's

Jason